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Mont Blanc Advice from Mike Hamill

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A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' Mont Blanc Expedition from Mike Hamill

When I graduated college, I moved west as quickly as possible and took a job guiding on the mighty Mt Rainier in Washington State in the US. I was captivated by the job and lifestyle and immediately hatched a plan to spend the following spring in the center of climbing and birthplace of alpinism with some fellow guides, Chamonix-Mont Blanc. I wanted to immerse myself in climbing culture and surround myself with the best climbers and the steepest, most storied mountains on earth. In my mind, there was no better place to cut my teeth than Chamonix. I spent the next few springs ski mountaineering and climbing the mountains surrounding Chamonix Valley, and for a moment, it felt like a second home to me.

The Chamonix-Mont Blanc region has always had this je ne sais quoi allure. It captivates all who have the opportunity to climb there, specifically on Mont Blanc. It is a pilgrimage that all who call themselves mountaineers need to make at one point in their lives. Combine Mont Blanc with the Matterhorn and the Eiger, and you have ticked off the most classic climbs in the Alps all in one go! If you have the time, there is no better climbing tour of the Alps.

Beyond the history and quality of climbing on Mont Blanc, it is a perfect progression climb for the Seven Summits and a great stepping stone for other climbing programs like the Ecuador Volcanoes, 3 Peaks Nepal, and Mt Vinson. It’s also a great way to experience the best Europe has to offer, like incredible food, wine, high mountain huts, and quaint and cozy accommodations in town, not to mention aerial trams that can whisk you to wherever you want to go in the mountains and ease of travel on super-efficient trains from valley to valley. It’s an experience not to be missed.

To help you on your Mont Blanc journey, here are a few pieces of wisdom I’ve given clients over the years (and use myself!) that have helped them be successful. I hope these tips will help you, too!

Best Wishes,
Mike

  • Take the opportunity to add extra time in Europe to take in the culture, especially if you haven’t been on a previous trip. Paris is a short train ride away, you can easily duck down to the coast of Italy, or even explore the Danube by boat. The sky is the limit!
  • Pay close attention to the simple skills your guide teaches on day 1. like the scuff step, rest step, pacing, cramponing and self-arrest. These basic principles can cut your climbing effort almost in half; even if you are an experienced hiker, you will benefit from these techniques. They are skills you want to master early in your climbing career, and they will pay dividends in the climbs to come.
  • Don’t underestimate the cold on summit day. Even in the height of summer with a perfect forecast, the upper mountain can be cold and breezy at 4 a.m. Bring winter-weight gloves and a warm parka; don’t skimp on these critical layers, thinking it’s just a summer climb.