& the Lhotse team resting at C3…

Well, the waiting is over and the moment the Everest climbers have been waiting for has arrived. They finally get to experience what Everest summit day is like. They have done exceptionally well to put themselves in this position. Even to climb to 8000m and spend a night there is a huge feat. Now they will climb for the next 6 to 10 hours, ascending through the darkness and rarefied Himalayan air for a short moment on top.

The route starts gradually across the icy surface of the south col before the climbing begins. Moderate slopes and 3 – 4 hours of climbing will lead the climbers to the “Balcony.” Here they will change their used oxygen bottles for fresh ones and grab a quick sip of water and bite to eat before getting in to the real climbing. 

The next stretch to the South Summit surprises many climbers but our team has been well-educated about the steepness and challenges of this section. Several short rocky steps lead to a right traverse then on to a broad, steep ridge to the South summit proper. This section typically takes 3 hours. As our team crests the South Summit the first light of day should be on them and they’ll begin to feel the warmth of the sun.

Here they are within reach. From the South summit they will peer across the summit ridge where they can almost see the top. Another 1.5 – 2 hours of exposed but relatively flat walking will bring our team to the top. Typically climbers spend anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour on the summit depending on the weather. 

They will then descend to back to the South Col in about half the time. Believe it or not, it can get so hot on the descent that you’re forced to take the top of your down suit off and tie it around your waste. I’ve even seen a few mountaineers take their boots off at the “Balcony” to cool their feet although I wouldn’t recommend it! Once back at the South Col the team will rest and if some people are feeling very strong and well-rested, they may descend to the relative luxury of Camp 2. 

The Lhotse team is tucked in at Camp 3 on Os and has a less eventful night ahead of them. They’ll wake up leisurely in the morning and head to high camp where the next night will be their night to climb. 

More updates to follow as the team ascends.

All best, 

Mike Hamill

CTSS Owner