We have chosen the Northern Route (also known as the Jamapa Glacier Route or the Normal Route) on Orizaba for the best summit chances and an opportunity to experience standing on top of North America’s tallest volcanic peak.

Orizaba requires a very early start with breakfast at high camp before starting upwards. The climb consists of true glacier travel with some steep snow, so it is necessary to be well acquainted with ice axe use, crampons, and roped team travel.

The route starts from the Piedra Grande Hut with a challenging 1,400-meter ascent that takes 8 to 15 hours. The first section involves climbing up a rocky and sandy scree slope, which, while not the most pleasant, is quickly behind you as the climb transitions to snow-covered terrain.

Next is the Labyrinth, a complex mix of ice and rock that can be tricky to navigate. Climbers typically choose between two main routes here: a steeper, more direct path to the right or a longer, more gradual path to the left, depending on conditions and preference.

The final section is the Jamapa Glacier, a straightforward but deceptive ascent where progress can feel slow due to the glacier’s vast size. As you near the summit, the glacier becomes steeper, reaching around 40 degrees. Although there are small crevasses, they generally pose no serious threat to climbers. The descent follows the same route back to the hut.