Cotopaxi and Cayambe for Team CTSS
Our November Ecuador Volcanoes expedition is well underway! After gathering in Quito for a city tour and a visit to the equator, the team enjoyed a welcome dinner before heading to the mountains. From there, they set out for the beautiful Rumiñahui, one of the first acclimatization hikes of the trip. Followed by training and summit bids on Cotopaxi and Cayambe. The weather has been absolutely perfect, with clear skies and sunshine, which are ideal conditions for learning and practicing their skills on the glacier.
Stay tuned for more updates, and check out these photos for a glimpse of our journey so far.
Barriers to Entry Survey Thank You
Mountaineering is a world of adventure, but starting a new sport or committing to the next expedition can feel challenging for many. From balancing family or work obligations to managing financial and logistical barriers, each climber faces unique factors that might keep them from their next big goal. Whether it’s finding the right time, managing the costs, or feeling unsure about where you’ll fit in, we want to know what’s holding you back. Help us understand your biggest barriers so we can work to make mountaineering more accessible for everyone.
Please share any additional factors stopping you from starting or signing up for your next expedition.
Webinar Survey Thank You
Do you have a great idea for a mountaineering-related webinar? Share your idea below!
Guide Spotlight: Dallas Glass
Guide Spotlight: Dallas Glass
Meet CTSS guide Dallas Glass! A Seattle local, Dallas has climbed and guided some of the most renowned peaks worldwide, including Mount Everest in Nepal and Cho Oyu in Tibet. He is a regular presence on our Denali expeditions in Alaska and Mount Baker in Washington, where his calm leadership and technical expertise have earned him a reputation as one of the most skilled guides in the business. As one of our climbers on Mount Baker shared this past year, Dallas is “simply outstanding.”
With nearly three decades of climbing experience and an impressive academic background, Dallas brings a wealth of knowledge to every expedition. Dallas holds a Bachelor of Science in Forest Resource Management from Clemson University and went on to earn a Master’s degree in Hydrology and Soil Physics from the University of Nevada. After completing his studies, Dallas divided his time between working as a wilderness ecologist in Alaska and an avalanche forecaster at Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe. These days, Dallas spends most of his year working as an avalanche and mountain weather forecaster in Washington’s rugged Cascade Range. However, he still loves to trade his skis for crampons and explore the world’s great ranges. His combined expertise in both the environment and avalanche science makes him an indispensable resource on every climb.
Dallas’s list of professional certifications is equally as impressive as his big mountain and academic background. Not only does he hold multiple certifications from the American Institute of Avalanche Research and Education, but he also spent many years working for AIARE, teaching and evaluating other recreationists and professionals. Rounding out Dallas’s avalanche certifications, he has also completed the Pro Training Program with the American Avalanche Association, which supports avalanche professionals by increasing the effectiveness of past trainings and certifications in a collaborative and complimentary manner.
A climber from our 2024 Denali team expedition perfectly captured Dallas’s strengths:
“Dallas was easily the most knowledgeable and experienced guide on our trip. He always put safety and education first and worked tirelessly to help clients succeed. He far exceeded my expectations for a guide.”
Born in Alabama, Dallas’s passion for the outdoors was sparked when he began climbing the beautifully sculpted sandstone routes that dominate the northeast corner of the state. In 2012, Dallas and his wife moved to Seattle, where they now enjoy the outdoors year-round. His time in the Pacific Northwest has been marked by countless adventures, where he has further honed his climbing, skiing, and avalanche forecasting skills. When not guiding or working as a local avalanche forecaster, you’ll likely find Dallas on a long run or whipping a delicious meal with his wife.
Whether you’re tackling the glaciers of Alaska or the rugged slopes of Baker, Dallas brings an unparalleled depth of experience and professionalism to the mountain. This is exactly why we’re tapping into Dallas’s knowledge for our upcoming webinar, Mountaineering 101: Expedition Essentials on Mount Baker, to chat about our Mount Baker Alpine Academy. These hands-on courses are designed for aspiring climbers or those preparing for bigger summits like Denali, Aconcagua, or Everest who want a deeper understanding of the essential mountaineering skills, including crampon, ice axe, rope, and efficiency techniques, as well as best practices for camping during a multi-day expedition. You can read more about these essential skills in our blog, Mike’s Big Four: Skills ALL Mountaineers Need.
Get to Know Dallas
Ready to level up your climbing skills? Join top guides Dallas Glass and Kat Schaumberg for an expert-led webinar in November to learn about our favorite classroom—Mount Baker!
Mountaineering 101: Expedition Essentials on Mount Baker
This FREE webinar is your chance to learn from our very own Mount Baker Lead Guides as they share their expertise on essential mountain climbing techniques. From mastering glacier travel to honing your camping skills in harsh environments, discover why Mount Baker is the ideal classroom for climbers aiming for bigger peaks.
Mike’s Big Four: Skills ALL Mountaineers Need
Mike’s Big Four: Skills ALL Mountaineers Need
Safe and successful mountaineering is rooted in the skills you develop and hone along the way. Every climber, regardless of whether they are climbing Mount Baker or Mount Everest, needs a strong foundation in expedition management (e.g., winter camping and self-care) and technical skills (e.g., crampon and ice axe usage) paired with an intentional altitude progression. As a holistic mountaineering guide service, we are here to give you advice and are committed to ensuring that you are set up for success on all your future expeditions.
Not all trip itineraries offer climbers dedicated time to learn, practice, and refine the fundamental skills, which is why we designed the Mount Baker Alpine Academy courses—a program specifically developed for beginner climbers who want a jumping-off point to the great ranges around the world. Even seasoned climbers find Mount Baker a great place to refresh, improve efficiency, and continue to build mastery. What makes a strong climber is the continued repetition of skills, especially as you move toward a new objective.
We asked Mike Hamill, CTSS co-owner and author of Climbing the Seven Summits, to share the technical and expedition skills around which he designed the Mount Baker Alpine Academy curriculum and that he believes are fundamental to setting climbers up for a lifetime of climbing.
Skill #1: Multi-Day Expedition Camping
Camping and expedition training are the foundation upon which your more technical mountaineering skill set will rest. This includes everything from building and packing your kit for the hike into base camp to setting up a winter camp, spending consecutive nights in a tent, and managing a wide array of weather conditions. If you have your eyes on an expedition to Vinson, Denali, or Aconcagua, being proficient in these skills and having well-practiced, dependable systems will set you up for success so you can focus more on climbing.
We’ve broken this singular concept into three subcategories to help you better understand what skills you should focus on when you’re on Mount Baker.
- Expedition Kit: A properly curated kit is your lifeline in harsh environments. This kit should include a variety of layers to prevent both overheating and cold injuries, which means you’ll want moisture-wicking base layers to keep sweat away from your skin, insulating mid-layers to trap warmth and a waterproof, windproof outer shell for protection against the elements. Anticipating and adjusting your layers as conditions change ensures you stay warm without overheating. Your gear, from your crampons to your headlamp, must be organized, reliable, and tested beforehand to prevent any on-mountain mishaps. Insulated mountaineering boots are especially important—make sure they fit well to avoid frostbite and blisters and have space for bulky socks. Mount Baker offers the perfect terrain to test your kit together and explore how each piece works effectively as a system. Check out our blog post, How to Choose the Right Mountaineering Boots, for more info on choosing the right boot.
- Winter Camping: Tent camping in inclement conditions demands specific skills to ensure not only your comfort but also your survival in more extreme environments. Setting up a solid winter camp also requires a reliable, four-season tent capable of withstanding high winds and snowfall. Knowing how to secure your tent with snow anchors, create windbreaks, and avoid drafts is essential. Equally important is your sleep system; use a properly rated sleeping bag and two insulated sleeping pads to ensure you stay warm and get the rest you need to maintain energy for the next day’s climb. Another key task at camp is making potable water, which often means melting snow on the stove. Efficiently managing your water filtration systems and keeping fuel consumption under control are crucial for staying hydrated.
- Self-Care: Taking care of yourself on a multi-day expedition involves managing both your physical and mental well-being. Proper nutrition and hydration are essential, and your meals should be calorie-dense yet lightweight, designed to keep your energy levels high in the cold. It’s easy to forget to hydrate in freezing temperatures, but staying hydrated is just as critical as on warmer days. Injuries such as blisters or sore muscles can derail your climb if not managed early. Learn to avoid and treat blisters as soon as they appear, and be proactive with stretching and rest to keep muscle fatigue at bay. Having a well-stocked first aid kit and the know-how to use it can help you avoid minor issues turning into bigger problems.
Mike on the importance of self-care.
Skill #2: Cramponing & Ice Axe Techniques
Cramponing and ice axe techniques are essential for safe and efficient movement on glaciated terrain. Together, these tools allow climbers to ascend and descend safely, providing traction and support on technical routes. Mastering these skills is crucial for navigating challenging conditions and minimizing risk.
Crampons are detachable spikes designed to fit securely onto your mountaineering boots and provide traction on terrain covered in snow and ice. The most commonly used crampon technique is flat-footing (French technique). This style keeps the crampon flat against the surface, thereby engaging all points and helping conserve energy. Front-pointing (German technique), as the name suggests, involves using the front points of the crampon to kick into the ice, particularly on steep slopes, to provide strong, secure footing.
The ice axe is a specialized yet versatile tool used in mountaineering, specifically during glacier travel. It serves several key functions, including providing support, balance, and safety on snowy or icy slopes. It typically has three parts: the head (including the sharp pick and a flat blade called the adze), the shaft (the long handle), and the spike (the pointed end at the bottom).
Key ice axe techniques include learning to self-arrest, which is one of the most important safety skills in mountaineering. In the event of an unexpected fall, a climber must quickly retrieve their ice axe and dig it into the snow or ice while rolling to their stomach. Once a climber is laying flat, they can put additional pressure onto the head of the axe using their body weight. Ideally, the ice axe is tucked under the climber’s chest while they use their feet to stabilize their fall.
Skill #3: Rope Techniques
Rope techniques are essential in mountaineering to ensure safety, manage risk, and navigate technical sections of a climb. These techniques vary based on terrain, team size, and the difficulty of the route. Here are a few examples of rope techniques that we practice during our Mount Baker Alpine Academy and use regularly on our expeditions.
- Roped glacier travel, or roping up, is where climbers are tied together with a rope for mutual safety, especially on glaciers or steep sections. This helps prevent falls and aids in arresting or rescuing if someone on the team slips. This technique is commonly used on mountains when crevasses are a danger or when crossing exposed ridges.
- Fixed-line climbing, or the jumar technique, refers to a style of climbing in which fixed ropes are anchored to the mountain to provide assistance for climbs ascending steep, technical terrain. When ascending, climbers use a jumar (a mechanical ascender) to move up the rope while being securely attached. This technique is commonly used on Denali, Vinson, and across the Himalayas on near-vertical slopes.
- Crevasse rescue is a specific rope setup used during glacier travel, especially where hidden crevasses are a risk. This technique not only helps prevent unwanted falls into a crevasse but also enables quick rescue in the event of a fall. This is one of those skills that, ideally, you never need to use but is a core skill for expeditions on Denali and Vinson. Also, practicing these skills is probably some of the most fun you’ll have during our Alpine Academy.
Skill #4 – Efficiency Techniques
Mountaineering efficiency techniques like pressure breathing, the rest step, and maintaining a steady pace are vital skills for conserving energy and sustaining endurance during long climbs. These methods are designed to maximize oxygen intake and reduce muscle fatigue, allowing climbers to move more efficiently in high-altitude environments.
Pressure breathing emphasizes controlled, metered breaths, which, when used properly, can significantly improve oxygen saturation in your body and help keep your muscles oxygenated at high altitudes. If you were to use a pulse oximeter, you’d see a notable increase in O2 after about five minutes of pressure breathing. You might find that some guides teach back-pressure breathing, but remember that the goal is to breathe consistently and calmly.
The rest step incorporates a brief pause with each step by locking your back leg, enabling your skeletal system to bear more of the load and reducing strain on your muscles. In fact, if we were all standing around right now, you’d more than likely be practicing a rest step standing with one leg locked and the other not locked. This essentially mimics the rest step.
When combined with a steady pace, these techniques create a rhythm that enhances overall performance, allowing climbers to maintain a consistent, manageable speed that conserves energy and reduces exhaustion on challenging terrain.
Mike’s thoughts on efficiency.
Final Thoughts on Mountaineering Skills
It’s important to remember that these skills aren’t just checkboxes during your Mount Baker Alpine Academy. These are lifelong mountaineering skills that you will need to practice and hone year after year because they are crucial for your safety and success in the mountains. Regardless of where you are in your mountaineering journey, you don’t want to get to the final pitches on Denali, for example, and feel exhausted, inefficient, and intimidated by what’s in front of you. When you take the time to learn and continually refine these skills, you will become a more capable and confident mountaineer, making every adventure more rewarding.
If you have questions about your own climbing journey or how to set yourself up for success on a particular objective, our team is happy to help you craft a plan designed specifically for you. We work with mountaineers over a lifetime of climbing, and we get to know each individual throughout their progression, investing deeply not only in your safety and success but in your goals, education, and experience.
Mountaineering 101: Expedition Essentials on Mount Baker
Ready to level up your climbing skills? Join top guides Dallas Glass and Kat Schaumberg for an expert-led webinar in November to learn about our favorite classroom—Mount Baker!
This FREE webinar is your chance to learn from our very own Mount Baker Lead Guides as they share their expertise on essential mountain climbing techniques. From mastering glacier travel to honing your camping skills in harsh environments, discover why Mount Baker is the ideal classroom for climbers aiming for bigger peaks.
Pico de Orizaba Advice from Mike Hamill
Pico de Orizaba Advice from Mike Hamill
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Personal advice on climbing Aconcagua from Mike Hamill
Aconcagua is a unique climb bringing you into the realm of true high altitude mountaineering. As the highest peak outside the Himalaya it is bound to challenge and excite you.
Some people say that Aconcagua is an ‘ugly’ mountain because it is not your typical snow and ice covered peak as it is more of an arid, desert-like environment. Personally, I find it one of the most beautiful places for its unusual character and the rare juxtaposition of high glaciers, rock and earth. I liken it to the Southwestern United States when it still had glaciers. Its sunsets are phenomenal with condors flying above you and the sky turning fiery red and orange.
To help you on your Aconcagua journey here are just a handful of things I’ve imparted to my clients over the years (and used myself!) that have helped them be successful – tips that I hope will contribute to your summit, too.
Best wishes,
Mike
- Don’t underestimate the cold on summit day on Aconcagua. Combined with the thin air the ambient temperature will feel much lower, which makes the pace slower than you might expect. It’s likely your feet will feel the cold more than they otherwise would so I recommend investing in a triple boot, especially if you are planning on doing other high altitude, 8000m peaks or cold weather climbs like Vinson or Denali in the future. Triple boots will ensure you aren’t fighting to keep your feet warm all summit day.
- Even on the best weather days on the summit bid, there is almost always a fierce wind crossing the Gran Acarero so make sure you have a thick face mask on hand and ready to put on. In fact, having a good cover up system of layers (buff, sun hoodie, goggles, etc.) is important everywhere on Aconcagua. If it is not the wind, it’s the sun and the dust that you need to ward off.
- Taking care of yourself is essential on Aconcagua, particularly making sure you don’t get dehydrated. Whenever you are at altitude you need to drink more water than at sea level because of the dry air, but this is even more so on Aconcagua as you move through the desert-like environment. Drink before you are thirsty and keep sipping water throughout the day. Your urine should be clear. The same goes for calories. Being at 7000m means you need plenty of fuel and quick calories so you don’t bonk. I like Shot Bloks or Gu packs in my pocket and down them as often as I can. Bring your favourite snack foods from home that you know will tempt you even when you don’t feel hungry.
- Commit early to Aconcagua. If you are able to plan 6 months to a year in advance and lock in your goal by booking a spot on a team, you will give yourself a greater opportunity for success. Being financially and mentally committed means you are more likely to stay physically committed, too. Having a good runup is very helpful in terms of making training a daily habit. Get fitter and stronger than you think you need to be. Aconcagua is an enormous physical undertaking. A strong foundation of specific ‘pack carrying climbing fitness’ will also ensure you enjoy the ‘type 2 fun’.
- Be a great teammate. Ruck in and do your part. Aconcagua is truly a team mountain. In order to be successful, you will need to shoulder your share of group gear, be organized and ready to build and break camp almost daily. Make an effort to help your guides wherever you can. Be eager. Remember your guides are the ones who get you to the top so helping them helps you, and on a mountain like Aconcagua it won’t go unnoticed.
Orizaba Express Training & Prerequisites
Experience Level
Climbing Orizaba requires solid fitness and an ability to perform well at altitude, but it is not beyond the abilities of many people who are willing to train for the climb and work hard on the trip. Prior use of crampons and an ice axe is preferred but not mandatory as we will do a brief snow school for those with experience to touch up their skills and for others to become familiar. If you want to join this expedition but feel unsure of your ability, chat with us, and we can work with you to get you up to speed before the climb. We take immense pride in helping people achieve their goals.
If you are looking for a skills-based course and climb to hone your technical mountaineering skills, check out our Mount Baker Alpine Academy and our Lobuche East expedition in Nepal.
Physical Training
You need to be very physically fit and able to dedicate time to “climbing-specific training” in the lead-up to your expedition. Being in top shape will also ensure you enjoy your climb, feel good throughout, and get the most out of the experience.
It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. Instead, you need to emulate long physical days (8+ hours) in the mountains
We recommend that you:
- Start specific mountaineering training at least three months in advance
- Train at least 4-5 days a week for an hour or more
- Focus on high-volume but low-intensity training
- Don’t forget the cardio, strength training, and stretching.
- A good goal is to be able to comfortably climb 1,500 vertical feet per hour with a 40lb pack.
- Schedule a few weekends where you can do two or more full days back to back. For multi-day hikes, carrying a pack with good elevation gains and descents is ideal.
Mindset
Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak. You should be prepared:
- To be away from home/work for the duration of your climb
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support, and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow teammates
- Be humble, respectful, and considerate even under pressure
Orizaba Express Expedition Beta & Route
Elevation: 18,491 feet
Duration: 7 days
Continent: North America
Route: Northern Route
Difficulty: Advanced Beginner – Intermediate
Route Choice
We have chosen the Northern Route (also known as the Jamapa Glacier Route or the Normal Route) on Orizaba for the best summit chances and an opportunity to experience standing on top of North America’s tallest volcanic peak.
Orizaba requires a very early start with breakfast at high camp before starting upwards. The climb consists of true glacier travel with some steep snow, so it is necessary to be well acquainted with ice axe use, crampons, and roped team travel.
The route starts from the Piedra Grande Hut with a challenging 1,400-meter ascent that takes 8 to 15 hours. The first section involves climbing up a rocky and sandy scree slope, which, while not the most pleasant, is quickly behind you as the climb transitions to snow-covered terrain.
Next is the Labyrinth, a complex mix of ice and rock that can be tricky to navigate. Climbers typically choose between two main routes here: a steeper, more direct path to the right or a longer, more gradual path to the left, depending on conditions and preference.
The final section is the Jamapa Glacier, a straightforward but deceptive ascent where progress can feel slow due to the glacier’s vast size. As you near the summit, the glacier becomes steeper, reaching around 40 degrees. Although there are small crevasses, they generally pose no serious threat to climbers. The descent follows the same route back to the hut.