Summit Teams Return to Camp 2

The entire summit team is now safely back to Camp 2. It was a huge day, nearly 24 hours on the move, but they elected to drop down to move off the windy South Col and sleep better. They will likely be back in Everest Base Camp tomorrow to celebrate and rest.

The second half of our team is patient and strategic, looking for the best summit window for their bids.

Once again, congratulations to all 26 climbers who stood on top yesterday on a great summit day with no crowds.

Here's a look at what the summit bid is like for our Everest climbers:


26 Everest Summits on May 13, 2024

Morning of 13th May (Local Nepal time)

A huge congratulations to our climbers, guides & Sherpas.

We are so proud to announce that all 26 climbers who left on their summit bid today have successfully stood on top of Mount Everest.

Including:

  • Ms Lee Donald
  • Mr Bert Snarr
  • Mr Thomas Smith
  • Mr Michael Fortune
  • Mr David Keating
  • Mr Terry Ledgard
  • Mr Jared Harris
  • Mr Patrick Monday
  • Mr Josh McDowell (Guide)
  • Mr Manuel Stahringer (Guide)
  • Dawa Furten Bhote
  • Pasang Bhote
  • Dawa Jyabu Bhote
  • Nuru Sherpa (Papchhe)
  • Pasang Rinji Sherpa
  • Dawa Sherpa (Ramete)
  • Dorjee Sherpa
  • Milan Tamang
  • Jangbu Sherpa
  • Thunang Lhomi
  • Sujan Gurung
  • Gyalbu Tamang
  • Pasang Tendi Sherpa
  • Sona Sherpa
  • Ang Tshering Sherpa
  • Ashis Gurung

The team are now making their way back down to the South Col. Please know that no news is good news. The winds are forecast to pick up a little, so the team is moving efficiently and not stopping to pull out radios unless absolutely necessary.

What a way to celebrate Mothers' Day! Congratulations to all.

Photos CTSS Archives


First Everest Summit Bids Underway

Evening Sunday 12th May

Summit bids are underway, with the traditional Western Guided Team climbers heading out of the South Col at approximately 8:30 pm Guided by Josh McDowell and Nani Strahringer.

We are looking at no crowds and clear skies as they climb throughout the night and into the morning. We expect summits early on the 13th around or just after sunrise. Please remember that no news is good news. It is a long summit day, and it is not unusual not to hear much as Guides conserve radio batteries. It's a case of heads down, keep moving. We will announce successful summiteers when they are back at the South Col.

If you want to see the route and what your climber is currently experiencing, take a quick look at: https://youtu.be/jsHzfy8yO6E?si=zN96aQ-FsThm7AKU

The remainder of the team is at Everest Base Camp preparing for their summit bids.

We are excited to keep you updated.


Summit Team Staged at Camp 3

Evening of Saturday 11th May

Hello from the Himalayas! We hope you are all rolling into a fabulous Mother's Day weekend and spoiling those moms/mums of yours! Apologies to the mums of our Western Guided Team who are above Base Camp right now, as they won't be able to send a message to you all, thanking you for all your support and love and for helping them get here and live out their dreams. We honor you.

At Camp 3 we have:

  • Bert Snarr
  • Tom Smith
  • Adam Kennedy
  • Michael Fortune
  • David Keating
  • Terry Ledgards
  • Jared Harris
  • Pat Monday
  • Lee Donald & Personal Sherpa Thunang Bhote
  • Guide Josh McDowell & Guide Nani Strahringer.

They climbed the Lhotse Face strongly today - leaving early, at about 5 am, when the face was cold to minimize rockfall, and pulled into Camp 3 in good style and good time. They are sleeping on oxygen now and will remain on oxygen throughout their summit bids.

In the morning, they will keep heading up the Lhotse Face, through the Yellow Band, up to the South Col (Camp 4) at 8000m, where they will rest and get some sleep before they begin their summit attempts! We have winds in range throughout the night of the 12th and morning of the 13th, forecast to pick up more later in the afternoon of the 13th. There are no crowds which means they will be able to move smoothly and efficiently. We are so excited for them and wishing them the best of luck.

Check out their route below:

Back at Everest Base Camp, readying for their window are:

  • Ruben S
  • Marc B
  • Randall E
  • Chen (Blake) Li
  • Yinghong H
  • Riki J
  • Pascale S
  • Aga O
  • Darragh O

Everything is smooth, let's head to the summit!

Photos from the CTSS Archive

Bottom of the Lhotse Face, heading to C3
Bottom of the Lhotse Face, heading to C3
Climbing the Lhotse Face
Views from C3 on the Lhotse Face

 

 


The Start of Summit Bids on Everest

Evening of May 10th

The forecast is favorable.

The winds are within range. 

The route is ready, thanks to the summit rope fixing team.

Our team is feeling strong and eager. 

It’s go time!


Our Western Guided team is tucked in at Camp 2. They plan to start climbing at 5am local time up to Camp 3, where they will spend tomorrow night, before continuing toward the summit.

The 1:1 Private Guided and Personal Sherpa climbers are at Everest Base Camp, recovering and resting from their last rotation. They are all excited as they begin to prepare and strategize for their summit bid.

Exciting times in Nepal! 

Summit bids are starting! Here's to continue good weather and strong energy.


The World's Highest Ping Pong Tournament

We are getting excited as we move closer and closer to summit bids. With the team fully acclimatized, all eyes are on the forecast, specifically the winds. We are looking for an opportune moment. The team is eager, the logistics are in place, and we are excited to get things underway.

While we wait, we knew it was the perfect time to host the World's Highest Ping Pong Tournament. The results are in, and guide Pega narrowly edged out Dawa Yolmo in the finals to successfully defended his 2023 title. Congrats to all the ping-pong players! 

If you're climbing with us in 2025, this is your sign to start brushing up on your ping-pong skills as part of your training regime. For real. The Sherpas are hard to beat. 

Meanwhile, guide Tomi has taken over the kitchen and is whipping up some incredible Argentinian fare as well as pizza and chicken brochette skewers. 


Ecuador Volcanoes Advice from Mike Hamill

ECUADOR VOLCANOES  |  South America


Ecuador Volcanoes Advice from Mike Hamill

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Personal advice on climbing Ecuador from Mike Hamill

Aconcagua is a unique climb bringing you into the realm of true high altitude mountaineering. As the highest peak outside the Himalaya it is bound to challenge and excite you.

Some people say that Aconcagua is an ‘ugly’ mountain because it is not your typical snow and ice covered peak as it is more of an arid, desert-like environment. Personally, I find it one of the most beautiful places for its unusual character and the rare juxtaposition of high glaciers, rock and earth. I liken it to the Southwestern United States when it still had glaciers. Its sunsets are phenomenal with condors flying above you and the sky turning fiery red and orange.

To help you on your Aconcagua journey here are just a handful of things I’ve imparted to my clients over the years (and used myself!) that have helped them be successful – tips that I hope will contribute to your summit, too.

Best wishes,
Mike

  • Don’t underestimate the cold on summit day on Aconcagua. Combined with the thin air the ambient temperature will feel much lower, which makes the pace slower than you might expect. It’s likely your feet will feel the cold more than they otherwise would so I recommend investing in a triple boot, especially if you are planning on doing other high altitude, 8000m peaks or cold weather climbs like Vinson or Denali in the future. Triple boots will ensure you aren’t fighting to keep your feet warm all summit day.

  • Even on the best weather days on the summit bid, there is almost always a fierce wind crossing the Gran Acarero so make sure you have a thick face mask on hand and ready to put on. In fact, having a good cover up system of layers (buff, sun hoodie, goggles, etc.) is important everywhere on Aconcagua. If it is not the wind, it’s the sun and the dust that you need to ward off.

  • Taking care of yourself is essential on Aconcagua, particularly making sure you don’t get dehydrated. Whenever you are at altitude you need to drink more water than at sea level because of the dry air, but this is even more so on Aconcagua as you move through the desert-like environment. Drink before you are thirsty and keep sipping water throughout the day. Your urine should be clear. The same goes for calories. Being at 7000m means you need plenty of fuel and quick calories so you don’t bonk. I like Shot Bloks or Gu packs in my pocket and down them as often as I can. Bring your favourite snack foods from home that you know will tempt you even when you don’t feel hungry.

  • Commit early to Aconcagua. If you are able to plan 6 months to a year in advance and lock in your goal by booking a spot on a team, you will give yourself a greater opportunity for success. Being financially and mentally committed means you are more likely to stay physically committed, too. Having a good runup is very helpful in terms of making training a daily habit. Get fitter and stronger than you think you need to be. Aconcagua is an enormous physical undertaking. A strong foundation of specific ‘pack carrying climbing fitness’ will also ensure you enjoy the ‘type 2 fun’.

  • Be a great teammate. Ruck in and do your part. Aconcagua is truly a team mountain. In order to be successful, you will need to shoulder your share of group gear, be organized and ready to build and break camp almost daily. Make an effort to help your guides wherever you can. Be eager. Remember your guides are the ones who get you to the top so helping them helps you, and on a mountain like Aconcagua it won’t go unnoticed.


Ecuador Volcanoes Training & Prerequisites

ECUADOR VOLCANOES  |  South America


Ecuador Volcanoes Training & Prerequisites

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Experience Level

This program is of moderate difficulty and is great for those with previous experience with crampons, ice axes, and rope travel on peaks such as Mount Baker and Mont Blanc. It requires solid fitness and an ability to perform well at altitude, but it is not beyond the abilities of many people who are willing to train for the climb and work hard on the trip.

If you are an advanced beginner, meaning you have previous hiking and trekking experience, you are welcome to join us on this expedition but please note that this climb will be challenging and test your limits. We will do a brief snow school during the team climb and we also offer a Pre-Expedition Acclimatization & Skills Training Add-On which can help refresh or extend your knowledge prior to the expedition. If you want to join this climb but feel unsure of your ability, chat with us and we can work with you to get you up to speed prior to the climb, as we take immense pride in helping people achieve their goals.

Physical Training

Your climb begins long before you reach Ecuador. We encourage you to incorporate training into your daily routine at least six months before the departure date. As your climb rolls around, you want to be in top physical and mental condition. Being fit at home is different from being strong at high altitudes and in extreme conditions.

By the time you depart, you should be comfortably able to do multi-day hikes with strong elevation gain carrying a 40-lb pack. While you won’t necessarily always have a pack that heavy in Ecuador (you will be carrying all of your gear to the Cayambe and Cotopaxi huts and, if you do the Chimborazo add-on, to high camp), it is a great way to build your power and strength in the areas you will need it. The average pack weight in Ecuador is 20 lbs (10kg) on a hiking/climbing day and 30 lbs (15 kg) on a day we are carrying to/from a hut or high camp.

We advise a training plan that includes the following:

  • Hiking uphill along outdoor trails with a heavy pack for an hour or more at least 3x per week, aiming for 1,500 vertical feet per hour.
  • Longer weekend back-to-back hiking days or climbing expeditions
  • Cross-training sessions, such as stair training, running, cycling, swimming, etc.
  • Strength-specific training that focuses on the lower body and core.
  • Interval training that boosts cardiovascular fitness and conditions your body to anaerobic conditions.
Slowly increase your training (time, distance, elevation gain, etc.) each week.

Training should be done gradually to reduce the risk of injury and build yourself up over time. Please be aware that bodybuilding workouts are not as effective as endurance and climbing conditioning training. Yes, you need to be strong and put weight on before your climb, as you will inevitably lose body fat and muscle, but merely bulking in the gym shouldn’t be a substitute for climb-specific cardiovascular training and strength.

Knees are often flagged as a concern. If you need to strengthen your knees, consider hiking with water weight in your pack, empty the water for your descents, and slowly build your knee strength. Soon you will be able to descend with the same amount of weight as you climb up with as your knees strengthen.

Whatever training you choose, you need to be working out five days per week for 45 minutes or more. This is really the bare minimum. Most climbers do cardio fitness nearly every day that is fairly specific to hiking uphill and works similar muscles on the descent without the impact. Aim for 3,000 to 5,000 vertical feet per day at least once a week and twice a week in the few months leading up to the climb.

Again, it is important to put time in before the trip in order to make the climb easier and more enjoyable. You don’t want to merely struggle to the top; instead, enjoy the experience by being in good enough shape to summit comfortably. Try to increase your workout intensity and duration gradually so you peak about a week before the start of your climb.

There is no substitute for hiking with a pack, as that is the basis for any high-altitude climb. There is no better excuse to get in shape than training for a goal such as these climbs!

Mindset

Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak.

You should be prepared to:

  • Be away from home/work for the duration of your climb
  • Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
  • Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support, and advice from your guides/expedition leaders, even if you are an experienced mountaineer
  • Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
  • Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow teammates
  • Be humble, respectful, and considerate even under pressure


Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Beta & Route

ECUADOR VOLCANOES  |  South America


Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Beta & Route

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Elevation: 18,996 – 20,548 feet
Duration: 11 – 14 days
Difficulty: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
Route: Standard Route
Continent: South America

Climbing Cotopaxi


On Cotopaxi (19,347 feet), we will be based out of Tambopaxi Lodge, just below the peak. We will do our acclimatization hikes and a day of training to refresh our skills, and then it’s time for the real climbing to begin! Our team will drive to the mountain and hike for about an hour to arrive at Refugio José Rivas, a dormitory-style mountain hut, where we will settle in, have our pre-summit meeting, and call it an early night.

Cotopaxi requires a very early start with breakfast at the hut before starting upwards. The route gains 3,200 vertical feet (1,000 meters) in just under two miles (3.2 km) from 15,900 feet (4,846 meters) to 19,347 feet (5,896 meters). The climb consists of true glacier travel with some steep snow, so it is necessary to be well acquainted with ice axes, crampons, and roped team travel.

Climbing Cayambe


The second climb of our Ecuador program, Cayambe (18,996 feet), serves up an exciting glacier ascent to the highest point on the Equator. The route starts from the mountain hut, Refugio Oleas Ruales, ascending a rock ridge for about an hour out of camp. After scrambling the rock ridge, the team gains the glacier and uses standard glacier travel techniques to work their way up to the summit. The climb takes about six hours to the summit and three to four hours for the descent. After returning to the Refugio, our team will pack up and head out. It’s time for a well deserved rest, and we’ll relax for the afternoon in the hot springs at Papallacta! Be sure to pack your swimmers.

Climbing Chimborazo


For those looking for an extra challenge while in Ecuador, we highly recommend adding Chimborazo (20,548 feet) to the standard Ecuador Volcanoes itinerary.

Chimborazo is a more challenging peak than Cayambe or Cotopaxi, with more exposed terrain and a longer route. To set our teams up for success, we have elected to set up a high camp in tents at around 18,400 feet (5,600 meters) rather than the lower Refugio Whymper hut that many expeditions use. The ascent starts the same day that you leave Quito, with about four hours of climbing to reach the high camp. Once in place at high camp, we’ll eat a good meal in the early evening and have an early bedtime in preparation for the summit bid. Waking up early for an alpine start, the route ascends a steep, glaciated ridge for several thousand feet to the false summit, Pico Veintimilla, at 20,434 feet (6,228 meters). It is a long, relatively flat climb from the false summit across the summit plateau to the true summit of Chimborazo at 20,565 feet (6,268 meters).

The descent retraces the ascent route. We’ll pick up our gear at high camp and descend down to the trucks waiting at the end of the road. From there, it’s a few hours of driving back to Quito!


How to Choose The Right Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition

ECUADOR VOLCANOES  |  South America


How to Choose The Right Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition

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It is important to research and choose the right expedition company to support you, help guide you through all logistics, and be there for you on the mountain. You want to do your homework so you feel 100% confident in your choice and can focus on the climb.

We encourage you to look closely at both the big picture and the small details.

Consider a company’s priority on safety, the quality and experience of its guides, its reputation, and its level of “care factor.”


Safety & Success

Your safety and success are the top priorities, strictly in that order.

It should go without saying that a climbing company should invest heavily in, and plan for your safety. This includes big picture logistics like strategic itineraries, professional and experienced guides and top notch logistics, all the way down to a general attitude and company wide philosophy, that while success and summits are great, they aren’t the ‘be all and end all’. What is more important than any mountain top, is your safety, wellbeing and enjoyment.

It is easy to be drawn in by low price tags, but remember the mountains are hazardous environments and what you are doing is challenging physically and mentally and cheap trips often mean compromises in areas that should never be compromised. Be it old gear, undertrained, underpaid or overworked guide staff, poor climber to guide ratios, rushed schedules and slap dash logistics. Buyer beware.

Try to gauge a companies’ approach to safety for yourself, scan past climber reviews, ask questions and talk to them about their strategy, their risk management, their level of redundancy. It is those conversations that will give you a good sense on their priorities.


Acclimatization

When you are considering an Ecuadorian Volcanoes expedition, one of the first things to look closely at is the schedule.

As soon as you land in Quito you are already at 2,850m | 9,350ft. Most human bodies start registering the effects of altitude at around 2500m | 8000ft. Formally “high altitude” is recognized as elevations above 8,000ft.

Look for relaxed time on the front end of the trip that allows your body to adjust before overtaxing it, for instance is there some sightseeing around Quito and the Equator, a gentle acclimatization hike or two where you retreat back down to Quito to sleep. You want at least 2x nights in Quito before you start moving higher.

Starting high out of the gate couple with the proximity and the accessibility of these mighty peaks themselves, (within a days drive and a days climb you can be at well above 6000m| 20,000ft!) its important to understand and be prepared that climbing in Ecuador, by its very nature is aggressive and jumps you up fast!

So inspect the itinerary – look for at least 3-4 days with in-built acclimatization hikes (to get high/sleep low) and training clinics, before you even attempt a summit to let your body adjust. Watch out for ‘churn and burn’ types who wants to move climbers through their season as fast as possible to get as many “bums on seats” as they can? Do they care about whether you get AMS and have to bow out early or not? Or is it a numbers game where sheer quantity over quality wins out?

Another clue is to look if the operator offers a ‘pretrip’ of some sort that allows climbers, for whom Ecuador may be their first true high altitude expedition, or even for climbers who know their individual bodies take longer to adjust, can get a jump start on acclimatization and a more gradual start before folding into the team.

Further you want to know that your Guide staff understand AMS (Acute Mountain Sickeness) and the more serious HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (Hight Altitude Cerebral Edema) and that they are quick to identify it, and responsive to the signs and symptoms.

Too often we’ve seen so called ‘guides’ being blasé about acclimatization. They probably live in Quito so their bodies have been adapted since birth and therefore they just don’t notice, understand or have the patience to help you adjust before setting out for the summit.

All our CTSS guides are top professionals who are valued because of their patient, understanding and conservative approach, especially when it comes to altitude and acclimatizing which is so important, particularly in Ecuador.


Leadership

CTSS owner Mike Hamill oversees all of our Ecuador Volcanoes expeditions. Mike’s almost unparalleled experience based in the big mountains can make the difference between success and failure. He and his team have been constantly refining our logistics over many expeditions to Ecuador and hundreds worldwide. Let Mike guide you through the many nuances of climbing Cotopaxi and Cayambe that will allow you to be successful. From start to finish, he and his team will work with you to make sure you’re as prepared as possible to reach your goal of standing on top. Often, being able to troubleshoot problems before they occur can make a difference, and this is where Mike’s vast experience becomes crucial.

We feel that our guides are incredibly important to our success. CTSS employs only world-class leaders who are known for their focus on client care and experience.


Values & Philosophy

Does an operator have strong values?

This is sometimes a little harder to identify as it’s more of a feeling than a sales pitch, but you should get a feel for a company through its little interactions, its care factor, its attention to detail, its corporate social responsibility, and its responses to you.

Mountaineering can be high-risk and stressful, so pick an operator who has strong core values and a team mentality that aligns with yours. When things get challenging, you can rely on open lines of communication, knowing they will do what they can to support you.

It is this team cohesiveness that flows through to each individual climber and helps them stand on top.


Culture

We emphasize experiencing Ecuadorean culture throughout our expedition. Ecuador has such a vast and beautiful history that it would be a shame not to experience it during a visit to the country. We immerse ourselves in the flare of the local people while sampling some of the best and most quintessential food and accommodations that the region has to offer.