Waiting for their Window
Hello from the Himalayas!
We are excited that our second wave of climbers, including all climbers on a 1:1 program, are getting ready to set off on their summit bids!
Tomorrow morning, the climbers, guides, and Sherpas will wake up, gear up, and set out for the journey of a lifetime! Before the sun rises, they will climb through the Khumbu Icefall. Some climbers plan to stay at Camp 1, and some will go directly to Camp 2. It's important to note that all climbers are keeping their schedules fluid to accommodate how they feel and the mountain's traffic (among other factors).
Up next: the Khumbu Icefall. Photo from CTSS Archives
Beyond Camp 2, climbers will move up to Camp 3, where they will sleep on oxygen. They will remain on oxygen above Camp 3 for the rest of their summit bid. The weather is looking stable and we are excited for this team who have been so prepared, patient, and fun to take their journey to the top of the world.
The upper mountain and in position for a summit bid. Photo from CTSS Archives
Meanwhile, our successful Western Guided team, who summited Mount Everest over the weekend, is saying farewell to Everest Base Camp today and starting their trek back down the Khumbu Valley. They expect to be back in Kathmandu around the 19th of May.
A final farewell for our Western Guided team! Photo courtesy of Jangbu
Everest Base Camp Celebrations
What an incredible last few days for our first summit team.
Summiting in great weather, watching the sunrise from the top of the world, creating friendships that will last a lifetime, experiencing the power and beauty of the world's tallest peak, and most importantly, feeling what it's like to walk safely back into Everest Base Camp after a successful climb.
Once again, huge congrats to the climbers. To the climbers and their families and friends - thank you for trusting CTSS to support you in this massive goal.
The team is all back at Everest Base Camp, celebrating their achievements, including Tendi Sherpa, below, who just completed his 16th summit on Mount Everest.
Tendi Sherpa (in blue) on the summit of Mount Everest, marking his 16th summit on the world's tallest peak.
Some climbers will helicopter out to get back to friends and family (and newfound fame), while others will relish walking back down the Khumbu Balley slowly with their teammates. Either way, they will have memories that will last a lifetime.
Below are a few of the incredible images for their summit. Photo credit to Nanika Stahringer, Tendi Sherpa, Josh McDowell, and Ashish Gurung.
And, of course, a welcome celebration at Everest Base Camp. Photo credit to Nanika Stahringer, Tendi Sherpa, Josh McDowell, and Ashish Gurung.
Summit Teams Return to Camp 2
The entire summit team is now safely back to Camp 2. It was a huge day, nearly 24 hours on the move, but they elected to drop down to move off the windy South Col and sleep better. They will likely be back in Everest Base Camp tomorrow to celebrate and rest.
The second half of our team is patient and strategic, looking for the best summit window for their bids.
Once again, congratulations to all 26 climbers who stood on top yesterday on a great summit day with no crowds.
Here's a look at what the summit bid is like for our Everest climbers:
26 Everest Summits on May 13, 2024
Morning of 13th May (Local Nepal time)
A huge congratulations to our climbers, guides & Sherpas.
We are so proud to announce that all 26 climbers who left on their summit bid today have successfully stood on top of Mount Everest.
Including:
- Ms Lee Donald
- Mr Bert Snarr
- Mr Thomas Smith
- Mr Michael Fortune
- Mr David Keating
- Mr Terry Ledgard
- Mr Jared Harris
- Mr Patrick Monday
- Mr Josh McDowell (Guide)
- Mr Manuel Stahringer (Guide)
- Dawa Furten Bhote
- Pasang Bhote
- Dawa Jyabu Bhote
- Nuru Sherpa (Papchhe)
- Pasang Rinji Sherpa
- Dawa Sherpa (Ramete)
- Dorjee Sherpa
- Milan Tamang
- Jangbu Sherpa
- Thunang Lhomi
- Sujan Gurung
- Gyalbu Tamang
- Pasang Tendi Sherpa
- Sona Sherpa
- Ang Tshering Sherpa
- Ashis Gurung
The team are now making their way back down to the South Col. Please know that no news is good news. The winds are forecast to pick up a little, so the team is moving efficiently and not stopping to pull out radios unless absolutely necessary.
What a way to celebrate Mothers' Day! Congratulations to all.
Photos CTSS Archives
First Everest Summit Bids Underway
Evening Sunday 12th May
Summit bids are underway, with the traditional Western Guided Team climbers heading out of the South Col at approximately 8:30 pm Guided by Josh McDowell and Nani Strahringer.
We are looking at no crowds and clear skies as they climb throughout the night and into the morning. We expect summits early on the 13th around or just after sunrise. Please remember that no news is good news. It is a long summit day, and it is not unusual not to hear much as Guides conserve radio batteries. It's a case of heads down, keep moving. We will announce successful summiteers when they are back at the South Col.
If you want to see the route and what your climber is currently experiencing, take a quick look at: https://youtu.be/jsHzfy8yO6E?si=zN96aQ-FsThm7AKU
The remainder of the team is at Everest Base Camp preparing for their summit bids.
We are excited to keep you updated.
Summit Team Staged at Camp 3
Evening of Saturday 11th May
Hello from the Himalayas! We hope you are all rolling into a fabulous Mother's Day weekend and spoiling those moms/mums of yours! Apologies to the mums of our Western Guided Team who are above Base Camp right now, as they won't be able to send a message to you all, thanking you for all your support and love and for helping them get here and live out their dreams. We honor you.
At Camp 3 we have:
- Bert Snarr
- Tom Smith
- Adam Kennedy
- Michael Fortune
- David Keating
- Terry Ledgards
- Jared Harris
- Pat Monday
- Lee Donald & Personal Sherpa Thunang Bhote
- Guide Josh McDowell & Guide Nani Strahringer.
They climbed the Lhotse Face strongly today - leaving early, at about 5 am, when the face was cold to minimize rockfall, and pulled into Camp 3 in good style and good time. They are sleeping on oxygen now and will remain on oxygen throughout their summit bids.
In the morning, they will keep heading up the Lhotse Face, through the Yellow Band, up to the South Col (Camp 4) at 8000m, where they will rest and get some sleep before they begin their summit attempts! We have winds in range throughout the night of the 12th and morning of the 13th, forecast to pick up more later in the afternoon of the 13th. There are no crowds which means they will be able to move smoothly and efficiently. We are so excited for them and wishing them the best of luck.
Check out their route below:
Back at Everest Base Camp, readying for their window are:
- Ruben S
- Marc B
- Randall E
- Chen (Blake) Li
- Yinghong H
- Riki J
- Pascale S
- Aga O
- Darragh O
Everything is smooth, let's head to the summit!
Photos from the CTSS Archive
The Start of Summit Bids on Everest
Evening of May 10th
The forecast is favorable.
The winds are within range.
The route is ready, thanks to the summit rope fixing team.
Our team is feeling strong and eager.
It’s go time!
Our Western Guided team is tucked in at Camp 2. They plan to start climbing at 5am local time up to Camp 3, where they will spend tomorrow night, before continuing toward the summit.
The 1:1 Private Guided and Personal Sherpa climbers are at Everest Base Camp, recovering and resting from their last rotation. They are all excited as they begin to prepare and strategize for their summit bid.
Exciting times in Nepal!
Summit bids are starting! Here's to continue good weather and strong energy.
The World's Highest Ping Pong Tournament
We are getting excited as we move closer and closer to summit bids. With the team fully acclimatized, all eyes are on the forecast, specifically the winds. We are looking for an opportune moment. The team is eager, the logistics are in place, and we are excited to get things underway.
While we wait, we knew it was the perfect time to host the World's Highest Ping Pong Tournament. The results are in, and guide Pega narrowly edged out Dawa Yolmo in the finals to successfully defended his 2023 title. Congrats to all the ping-pong players!
If you're climbing with us in 2025, this is your sign to start brushing up on your ping-pong skills as part of your training regime. For real. The Sherpas are hard to beat.
Meanwhile, guide Tomi has taken over the kitchen and is whipping up some incredible Argentinian fare as well as pizza and chicken brochette skewers.
Ecuador Volcanoes Advice from Mike Hamill
Ecuador Volcanoes Advice from Mike Hamill
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Personal advice on climbing Ecuador from Mike Hamill
Aconcagua is a unique climb bringing you into the realm of true high altitude mountaineering. As the highest peak outside the Himalaya it is bound to challenge and excite you.
Some people say that Aconcagua is an ‘ugly’ mountain because it is not your typical snow and ice covered peak as it is more of an arid, desert-like environment. Personally, I find it one of the most beautiful places for its unusual character and the rare juxtaposition of high glaciers, rock and earth. I liken it to the Southwestern United States when it still had glaciers. Its sunsets are phenomenal with condors flying above you and the sky turning fiery red and orange.
To help you on your Aconcagua journey here are just a handful of things I’ve imparted to my clients over the years (and used myself!) that have helped them be successful – tips that I hope will contribute to your summit, too.
Best wishes,
Mike
- Don’t underestimate the cold on summit day on Aconcagua. Combined with the thin air the ambient temperature will feel much lower, which makes the pace slower than you might expect. It’s likely your feet will feel the cold more than they otherwise would so I recommend investing in a triple boot, especially if you are planning on doing other high altitude, 8000m peaks or cold weather climbs like Vinson or Denali in the future. Triple boots will ensure you aren’t fighting to keep your feet warm all summit day.
- Even on the best weather days on the summit bid, there is almost always a fierce wind crossing the Gran Acarero so make sure you have a thick face mask on hand and ready to put on. In fact, having a good cover up system of layers (buff, sun hoodie, goggles, etc.) is important everywhere on Aconcagua. If it is not the wind, it’s the sun and the dust that you need to ward off.
- Taking care of yourself is essential on Aconcagua, particularly making sure you don’t get dehydrated. Whenever you are at altitude you need to drink more water than at sea level because of the dry air, but this is even more so on Aconcagua as you move through the desert-like environment. Drink before you are thirsty and keep sipping water throughout the day. Your urine should be clear. The same goes for calories. Being at 7000m means you need plenty of fuel and quick calories so you don’t bonk. I like Shot Bloks or Gu packs in my pocket and down them as often as I can. Bring your favourite snack foods from home that you know will tempt you even when you don’t feel hungry.
- Commit early to Aconcagua. If you are able to plan 6 months to a year in advance and lock in your goal by booking a spot on a team, you will give yourself a greater opportunity for success. Being financially and mentally committed means you are more likely to stay physically committed, too. Having a good runup is very helpful in terms of making training a daily habit. Get fitter and stronger than you think you need to be. Aconcagua is an enormous physical undertaking. A strong foundation of specific ‘pack carrying climbing fitness’ will also ensure you enjoy the ‘type 2 fun’.
- Be a great teammate. Ruck in and do your part. Aconcagua is truly a team mountain. In order to be successful, you will need to shoulder your share of group gear, be organized and ready to build and break camp almost daily. Make an effort to help your guides wherever you can. Be eager. Remember your guides are the ones who get you to the top so helping them helps you, and on a mountain like Aconcagua it won’t go unnoticed.
