Mont Blanc Advice from Mike Hamill
A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' Mont Blanc Expedition from Mike Hamill
When I graduated college, I moved west as quickly as possible and took a job guiding on the mighty Mt Rainier in Washington State in the US. I was captivated by the job and lifestyle and immediately hatched a plan to spend the following spring in the center of climbing and birthplace of alpinism with some fellow guides, Chamonix-Mont Blanc. I wanted to immerse myself in climbing culture and surround myself with the best climbers and the steepest, most storied mountains on earth. In my mind, there was no better place to cut my teeth than Chamonix. I spent the next few springs ski mountaineering and climbing the mountains surrounding Chamonix Valley, and for a moment, it felt like a second home to me.
The Chamonix-Mont Blanc region has always had this je ne sais quoi allure. It captivates all who have the opportunity to climb there, specifically on Mont Blanc. It is a pilgrimage that all who call themselves mountaineers need to make at one point in their lives. Combine Mont Blanc with the Matterhorn and the Eiger, and you have ticked off the most classic climbs in the Alps all in one go! If you have the time, there is no better climbing tour of the Alps.
Beyond the history and quality of climbing on Mont Blanc, it is a perfect progression climb for the Seven Summits and a great stepping stone for other climbing programs like the Ecuador Volcanoes, 3 Peaks Nepal, and Mt Vinson. It’s also a great way to experience the best Europe has to offer, like incredible food, wine, high mountain huts, and quaint and cozy accommodations in town, not to mention aerial trams that can whisk you to wherever you want to go in the mountains and ease of travel on super-efficient trains from valley to valley. It’s an experience not to be missed.
To help you on your Mont Blanc journey, here are a few pieces of wisdom I’ve given clients over the years (and use myself!) that have helped them be successful. I hope these tips will help you, too!
Best Wishes,
Mike
- Take the opportunity to add extra time in Europe to take in the culture, especially if you haven’t been on a previous trip. Paris is a short train ride away, you can easily duck down to the coast of Italy, or even explore the Danube by boat. The sky is the limit!
- Pay close attention to the simple skills your guide teaches on day 1. like the scuff step, rest step, pacing, cramponing and self-arrest. These basic principles can cut your climbing effort almost in half; even if you are an experienced hiker, you will benefit from these techniques. They are skills you want to master early in your climbing career, and they will pay dividends in the climbs to come.
- Don’t underestimate the cold on summit day. Even in the height of summer with a perfect forecast, the upper mountain can be cold and breezy at 4 a.m. Bring winter-weight gloves and a warm parka; don’t skimp on these critical layers, thinking it’s just a summer climb.
Mont Blanc Training & Prerequisites
Experience Level
Mont Blanc is a great trip for everyone in that there are no technical prerequisites – you don’t need any prior technical mountaineering or rock-climbing experience. However, having some baseline experience with alpine and glacier climbing, cramponing, and ice axe arrest is ideal. Regardless of your experience, we will cover all the necessary skills in our 2-day training and acclimatization climbs as part of our expedition. These foundation skills are ones you will use religiously throughout your entire climbing career, making our skills training an asset to all climbers.
That said, there is a prerequisite that you are physically very fit and healthy. Mont Blanc shouldn’t be dismissed as ‘easy’ just because it is suitable for beginners. Like any large glaciated climb, it should not be underestimated.
If you are looking for a skills-based course and climb to hone your technical mountaineering skills prior to your expedition, check out our Australian Alpine Academy and Mount Baker Alpine Academy.
Physical Training
You need to be very physically fit and able to dedicate time to ‘climbing-specific training’ in the lead-up to your expedition. Being in top shape will also ensure you enjoy your climb, feel good throughout, and get the most out of the experience.
It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. Instead, you need to emulate long physical days (8+ hours) in the mountains
We recommend that you:
- Start specific mountaineering training at least 3 months in advance
- Train at least 4-5 days a week for an hour or more
- Focus on high-volume but low-intensity training
- Don’t forget the cardio, strength training, and stretching.
- A good goal is to be able to comfortably climb 1,500 vertical feet per hour with a 40lb pack
- Schedule a few weekends where you can do two or more full days back-to-back. Multi-day hikes carrying a pack with good elevation gains and descents are ideal.
Mindset
Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak. You should be prepared:
- To be away from home/work for the duration of your climb
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support, and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow teammates
- Be humble, respectful, and considerate even under pressure
Mont Blanc Expedition Beta & Route
Elevation: 15,774 feet
Duration: 7 Days
Continent: Europe
Country: France
Route: Goûter Route (Normal Route)
Difficulty: Intermediate
Route Choice
We have chosen the Goûter Route on Mont Blanc for the best summit chances and a chance to experience one of the “classic” climbing routes in the Alps.
Every expedition originates in Chamonix, France, the birthplace of alpinism, where the team will meet the evening before for a group dinner, gear checks, and to address any last-minute logistics.
On days 2 and 3, you will head to Mont Blanc as a team for acclimatization and technical skills training before returning to Chamonix. On day 4, you will begin your summit of Mont Blanc via the Goûter Route.
On your way to the Roof of the Alps, you will pass through the infamous Grand Couloir, a steep gully where we will pay close attention to the potential for rockfall. After, we will ascend and navigate the Aiguille du Goûter ridgeline, known for its crevasses and high winds, before approaching the Dôme du Goûter, which stands at just above 14,000 feet.
At this point, you are a little over a mile from the summit of Mont Blanc. The Dôme du Goûter is one of the shoulders of Mont Blanc and offers a perfect panoramic for the impending sunrise. Our team will make one more stop at the Vallot Hut to adjust layers and fuel up as needed before taking on the final exposed ridge, Petit Bosse, that extends to the summit of Mont Blanc.
Climbing Mont Blanc requires solid fitness, the ability to perform well with a heavy pack, and the mindset to dig deep and enjoy the process of climbing the largest mountain in Western Europe.
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc | France
Price Range:
$5,995USD
Elevation:
15,774ft
Duration:
7 Days
Difficulty:
Intermediate
Route:
Goûter Route (Normal Route)
Share Expedition
Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Western Europe, making it one of the most sought-after summits in the Alps and earning its spot in the Alpine Big Three along with the Matterhorn and the Eiger. Perched along the France-Italy border, this lofty summit offers climbers breathtaking views while simultaneously testing their endurance abilities and advancing their mountaineering skills on one of the most accessible peaks in the Alps.
The Goûter Route is about as classic as it gets when it comes to the Alps. This route is demanding in altitude and terrain, but it is suitable for climbers who have a strong base fitness level and are looking to advance their mountaineering skills. Climbers that are looking to learn or solidify technical mountaineering skills like cramponing, self-arrest, and fixed-line climbing will excel during this climb.
The “Big Three” in alpinism refers to three of the most iconic and challenging peaks in the Alps: the Eiger, the Matterhorn, and Mont Blanc. These mountains are renowned for their difficulty, technical climbing challenges, and historical significance in the world of mountaineering. An expedition to Mont Blanc will set you up perfectly to take on the increasingly challenging summits of the Matterhorn and the Eiger. You can add these climbs to your Mont Blanc expedition, making it the ultimate trilogy.
This expedition starts and ends in Chamonix, France – the birthplace of alpinism. Several factors have contributed to Chamonix’s status, including its proximity to Mont Blanc. The combination of challenging peaks, early exploring, alpine clubs, skilled guides, and modern-day infrastructure leaves a legacy that has become emblematic in the mountaineering and alpine world.
For those of you on track to complete the Seven Summits, please note that we are now recognizing Mont Blanc as the acting European Seventh Summit in place of Mount Elbrus.
For this expedition, CTSS works exclusively with Adventure Base, an authorized concessionaire based out of Chamonix, France. Mike Hamill, Owner of Climbing the Seven Summits, selected Adventure Base as our partner because of our shared philosophies and high level of standards, including logistics, professional support, and local knowledge. Together, we crafted this custom itinerary specifically for our CTSS clients, including the option to add on the Alpine Big Three. Every guide for this expedition is an IFMGA/UIAGM/UIMLA Mountain Guide and has been handpicked by our teams.
Expedition Highlights
- Stand on the highest point in Western Europe
- Advance your mountaineering skills with world-class guides
- Pair with the Matterhorn and the Eiger to complete the Alpine Big Three
- Summit Mont Blanc, now recognized by CTSS as one of the Seven Summits
- See the sunrise over the Alps from the highest point in Western Europe
- Experience life in the birthplace of alpinism: Chamonix, France
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2024 Team Departure: $5,995 USD
Private Climb Options: Please contact us for pricing.
Dates:
- June 27 – July 3, 2025
- July 4 – 10, 2025
Our Mont Blanc expeditions run from the end of June through September to take advantage of the best weather and most favorable summit conditions. Whether you’re looking for a group climb or want a customized private climb to expand your skill set, we can arrange an expedition that fits your style and timeframe.
- If these dates don’t work for you, or you would like a private trip and private guide, we also build custom itineraries for many of our climbers.
- You can climb Mont Blanc as a stand-alone climb or dovetail it with other climbs in the Alps, including the Matterhorn and the Eiger. Together, Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger make up the Alpine Big Three, the ultimate trilogy for any mountaineer.
Our seven-day Mont Blanc expeditions offer a challenging ascent, requiring physical fitness, technical climbing skills, and mental endurance. It’s an infamous and highly sought-after summit that sits on the border of France and Italy with sweeping views that have been enticing climbers for years.
Itinerary:
This itinerary is only a rough estimate and will be determined by weather and conditions. This is adventure travel, meaning things rarely go as planned, and this schedule will likely change. Climbers need to be adaptable and positive.
We always recommend climbers arrive in Chamonix one day early to avoid travel delays or issues with lost baggage. Added expenses (hotel/food/sightseeing) of this extra day are the client’s responsibility.
- Day 1: Arrival day, gear checks
- Day 2: Train and acclimatize on the Mont Blanc range (ex. Aiguille du Midi)
- Day 3: Train and acclimatize on the Mont Blanc range (ex. Punta Hellbronner)
- Day 4: Begin Mont Blanc climb (Les Houches to Tête Rousse Hut)
- Day 5: Summit day (Tête Rousse Hut to Goûter Hut)
- Day 6: Return to Chamonix
- Day 7: Departure day
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list so you know what to expect
Included in the Mont Blanc Expedition
- IFMGA Mountain Guide at a 2:1 guide-to-client ratio for your summit day and a 4:1 ratio for your training days.
- Summit attempt of Mont Blanc plus 2 training days in the Mont Blanc range
- All accommodations, including 4 nights at a hotel in the Chamonix Valley, as well as 2 nights at mountain huts
- All meals, including a team dinner on the first night in Chamonix. You will need to bring your own selection of snacks for fuel during the training days and summit climb. We recommend a variety of your favorite snacks, enough for 5 snack breaks at 300-400 calories per break.
- Transport within the itinerary, including cable cars and trains
- All group gear, including mountaineering tents, cooking gear, stoves, ropes, etc.
- Group first aid equipment
Excluded from the Mont Blanc Expedition
- Flight costs
- Airport transfers from the Geneva Airport (Switzerland)
- Snacks and drinks during the expedition. You will need to bring your own selection of snacks for fuel during the training days and summit climb. We recommend a variety of your favorite snacks, enough for 5 snack breaks at 300-400 calories per break.
- All personal climbing equipment is the responsibility of the client.
- In the event of a rescue, evacuation, or early departure from the group, any rescue expenses or excess expenses above and beyond our normal trip costs, including transport, hotels, evacuation, flight changes, and gear shipping, are the responsibility of the client.
- Guide tips (customary, but optional)
- Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs
- Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
Allowing you to customize your expedition to suit your needs is a huge priority for us.
As mountaineers ourselves, we understand that it’s the little things that can make the difference. Comfortable, well-rested climbers are successful climbers, and climbers who have objectives that are suited to their skill level are happy climbers.
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Do I need to have any prior climbing experience?
This trip is open to all individuals in good physical condition. There are no technical climbing prerequisites to join this program. However, having some baseline experience with alpine and glacier climbing, cramponing, and ice axe arrest is ideal. If you are looking for a skills-based course and climb to hone your technical mountaineering skills prior to your expedition, check out our Australian Alpine Academy and Mount Baker Alpine Academy.
What is a good fitness and training program for this climb?
- Climbing conditioning – pack-loaded uphill hiking, walking, and stair climbing
- Strength training – for the lower and upper body
- Cardiovascular training – including both aerobic and anaerobic workouts without pack weight
- Flexibility training
How does this fit into my climbing progression?
Mont Blanc is a great training peak for bigger expeditions like our 3 Peaks Nepal (Lobuche, Pokalde, and Island Peak) and Ecuador Volcanoes Climb (Cayembe and Cotopaxi). Many climbers compare Mont Blanc to Mount Rainier in North America in terms of training and preparation.
If you are progressing through all the Seven Summits, this would be an excellent expedition to complete after you’ve climbed Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Kosciuszko to prepare yourself for bigger objectives like Denali and Aconcagua.
Do I need to acclimatize due to altitude?
Yes, we have built in two training days to support acclimatization into this expedition.
How heavy will my pack be?
You will likely be carrying 15 – 25 lbs (5kg – 10kg) in a 30 to 40 L pack.
Will I need to purchase trip insurance?
Yes. Trip delay and cancellation, rescue, repatriation, and medical insurance are mandatory for this program for your own benefit. We have seen too many times people need to cancel their trip either before or during the expedition for reasons such as injury, health, family, and business matters. With such a long trip and so much at stake, climbers need to be prepared for contingencies.
Didn't find an answer to your question? Don't hesitate to ask us.
Free Expert Advice
When you sign up for an expedition, you become part of the CTSS family.
This means a free consult with Mike Hamill—the author of Climbing the Seven Summits—or one of his expert team.
Personalized strategy, progression planning, expert coaching, and advice on how to get the most out of your climbing journey!
6x Reasons to Choose CTSS
Safety
Your safety and success are our priorities in that order. We make conservative decisions, plan redundancies and all our guides have wilderness medical training, safety & rescue plans & access to doctors 24/7 to help keep you safe.
Value for $
We keep our overheads low to pass savings on to you. We are proud to offer the best service for the most competitive price, without skimping on safety or taking shortcuts with logistics, staffing and infrastructure.
Holistic Approach
Our service goes far beyond the mountain. Think of us as your climbing coach, we’ll be there from start to finish to prepare, debrief and plan your progression as a mountaineer, whether your goal is a single summit or the Seven.
Guides & Team
Guides can make or break your climb. We hand pick the most qualified, tenured, tested and personable guides and Sherpa in the world. Owner and mountaineer Mike Hamill personally oversees the management of each expedition.
Our Values
We care about you, our people and the planet and we walk our talk by donating a percentage of every expedition to Tiger of the Snows fund which supports outdoor tourism workers all over the world and following strict Leave No Trace principles amongst other initiatives.
Success
We have an unparalleled summit success rate. How? We do it in a myriad of ways; like a great chef’s secret sauce, we've fine tuned the recipe over decades but most importantly, we believe in you & your ability to achieve your goals and are invested in putting you on top.
Ready to Progress?
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Vinson Summits!
Our Vinson Team just topped out!
Huge congratulations to;
Mr Kevin Cagney - who is finishing his 7 Summits!
Mr Ryan O'Sullivan - who is finishing his 7 Summits!
Ms Sophie Lavaud
Mr Ed Richards/
Mr Dean Poulakidas
Mr Brett Bush
Everyone is back to High Camp now and resting while the Guides get dinner rolling.
They will drop back to Base Camp tomorrow.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Photo CTSS Vinson Archives
Vinson Team in Position for Summit
We hope you had a great weekend.
7th Jan: Our Vinson Team are at High Camp, enjoyed a well deserved rest day today. With more cloud cover forming around the higher peaks in the early afternoon, than originally forecast it's a good day to take a break. They will aim for the summit tomorrow which will mean falling out of camp sometime between 8am - 10am, expecting a 6-8hour climb up and half of that back down to High Camp. Wishing them luck.
Meanwhile our final Vinson team arrived into Punta Arenas today. They will meet tomorrow morning for gear checks and guide briefing.
All is well down South.
Cheers
CTSS Team.
Photos from CTSS Vinson Archive
Vinson Team at Low Camp. Aconcagua underway
Our Vinson team are doing great! Guide Robert checked in via satellite to let us know they moved very strongly and with some pace up to Low Camp. Weather looks good through the 7th so they are planning to move to High Camp tomorrow (6th Jan) with a tentative summit plan of the 7th Jan.
Meanwhile our Private back to back Vinson/Aconcagua climber Anna is already at Plaza de Mulas base camp ready to tackle her second objective. They are moving strongly and feeling good. Tomorrow is a rest day before moving to the higher camps.
100% on top of Africa
Congratulations to;
Neil Bhandari
Ed Sokolnicki
Traci Marin
Sam Schwerin
Emma Schwerin
Maria Albuja
Adwait Tare
Alongside Guide Tendi Sherpa & Gerry for toping out on Kilimanjaro at 7:30am this morning! They had great weather and climbed strong before descending to Millennium Camp safely. Today they will finish their descend and head back to Arusha where we will wave farewell to our Climb Only climbers and the rest of the team head out on a celebratory safari!
Kili Team Readies for the Summit & other MTN News
Day 5 on Kili : Our Kili team are cozy in Karanga Camp resting up and readying for their summit bids. They have been eating well and will be in bed early, to get up at midnight to begin their climb. Guides Tendi & Gerry report, everyone is feeling strong and have been climbing well. A little rain tonight but clear forecast in the morning. We are wishing them well on their journey to the roof of Africa.
On Aconcagua: Our teams hit Base Camp and trekked out and are back to Mendoza after a huge adventure. They'll be shortly on their way home. Meanwhile our private Vinson/Aconcagua climber Anna K who is doing the back to back climbs, arrived in Puenta del Inca and trekking to Confluencia today.
On Vinson: The team reached Vinson Base Camp, and we have good weather forecast for the next few days. Yesterday they did some sled and fixed rope training in the afternoon and the plan is to leave camp around noon today and head up to Low Camp.
Kili Photos from Guide Tendi:
Aconcagua Photos from Guide Nani:
Mountain Updates
Plenty of action on the peaks over New Year!
Hearty Congratulations to:
Ms Eva Steinwald
Mr Adrian Tyrell
Mr Blake Chen Li
Mr Ryan Bennett
Mr Louie Terrazas
Mr Elad Benjamin
Mr Jacob Oatman
who summited on Aconcagua today. Everyone is now back at Camp 3 doing well.
Fresh off Vinson, Anna K arrived in Mendoza today to dovetail her Vinson climb with a private custom climb on Aconcagua. She will do a speed ascent on the Normal Route.
Further South, in Antarctica, our second Vinson team is eagerly awaiting their flights to Vinson Base Camp. They are currently enjoying the creature comforts of Union Glacier but keen to get going. We hope they will fly in shortly.
Over in Africa, our Kilimanjaro team are doing great, with Guides Tendi and Gerry. Today they reached Barranco Camp (13,000ft |3,900m) having seen the Lava Tower otherwise known as the Shark Tooth. Tomorrow will tackle the steep Barranco wall onto the Southeastern flank of Kibo which offers superb vistas of the Southern ice fields up to Karanga Camp - the last water point in the steep valley.
All is well in the hills,
Cheers
CTSS
Photos CTSS Archives
