From Cayambe to Otavalo

Our Ecuador team wrapped up it’s standard climbs over the last few days with an attempt on Volcan Cayambe. Unfortunately recent weather on the mountain created avalanche conditions low down on the glacier and our guides decided that continuing into steeper terrain would be unwise.

After returning to the Cayambe Refuge the team dug into a short class on avalanche hazard, risk assessment, and decision making. Even when, or often, especially when conditions don’t allow for a full summit there is the opportunity to learn a ton about the mountain environment and this Ecuador team got a chance to deepen their understanding of snow and avalanche science.

In the end weather continued to deteriorate throughout yesterday morning with high winds raking the upper mountain. Though a summit would have been fantastic the team was stoked not to be battling through poor conditions high on Cayambe.

From Cayambe it was a short drive down to the famous mountain town of Otavalo for some well earned R&R on the banks of Lago San Pablo. Today the team will visit the world renowned Plaza de Los Ponchos indigenous market before returning to Quito to put a bow on the standard expedition.

Several of the team have opted to continue their climbing in Ecuador with the highly worthwhile addition of climbing Volcan Chimborazo. At 20,549 feet Chimborazo is taller than Denali and is the furthest point from the center of the earth! As our standard team heads home over the next few days we’ll continue to follow the progress of our Chimborazo climbers, stay tuned!

Cheers,

CTSS Team

Team Dinner in Otavalo - Photo Robert Jantzen
What a way to relax after a cold summit attempt - Photo Robert Jantzen
A moody Cayambe greets our Ecuador team yesterday - Photo Robert Jantzen
A moody Cayambe greets our Ecuador team yesterday - Photo Robert Jantzen
Deteriorating weather out the window of the Cayambe Refugio - Photo Robert Jantzen

Aconcagua Team Updates

All is well on Aconcagua.

Up high at Camp 2 we have our private team. They are doing great although, expectedly, a little tired. Today is a full rest day, after a big carry up to Camp 3 yesterday which now puts them in position for a summit bid. They had a big thunderstorm typical of Aconcagua with a dusting of new snow but sun is in forecast for the next few days. Tomorrow they will move to Camp 3.

Our private expedition of Viranju and Guide Nani moves to Camp 1 today. He reports that everything is going perfectly, and acclimatization is excellent.

On the lower slopes we have our main team who are currently enjoying the trek to Base Camp. After a great stay at Puente del Vacas, the set off on their mule assisted approach. Yesterday was an 8 mile hike up to Pampa De Lenas Camp at 2,868m/ 9,404 feet. Today, they have a nine and a half mile (approx 6hours) trek, crossing the river to hike up to Casa de Piedra camp and tomorrow they will hit Plaza Argentina Base Camp.

Our other private team of Jesse and Guide Tomi moved from Puente del Vacas to Casa de Piedra yesterday. We expect them to head to base camp today before starting an accelerated speed ascent up the mountain early next week.

Cheers
CTSS Team

Private Team Tomi & Jesse hit the trail

Camp at Punta del Inca - Photo Josh McDowell
Camp at Punta del Inca - Photo Josh McDowell
Punta del Inca Duffle Shuffle - Photo Josh McDowell
Our Team Departure hit the approach hike to Aconcagua

 


Aconcagua Updates

Our private group trip with Guide Quique reached Camp 2 today in good time and great spirits. They’re reporting continued clear weather and are resting up before a carry day to Camp 3 on Saturday. All is well with the team.

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Meanwhile, the Feb team finished up gear checks and last-minute errands before enjoying a fantastic dinner in Mendoza last night.

This morning, they loaded up the vans and drove to the trailhead in Puente del Inca. From there, they’ll begin the several-day trek into base camp at Plaza Argentina.

Everyone is excited to get on the trail!

Cheers
CTSS Team

Team Dinner in Mendoza - Pic Josh McDowell
Team Pic and they're on their way - Pic Josh McDowell
The Duffel Shuffle! Pic Josh McDowell


Success on Illiniza Sur

Our Ecuador team had a great experience climbing Illiniza Sur the last two days. Great weather and perfect snow conditions made this technical route and absolute joy to climb.

From the bus two days ago they hiked about 2.5 hours up to the Illiniza Refugio nestled between Illiniza Sur and Illiniza Norte. Waking at 2:00AM yesterday the ascended the complex route through steep snow and ice to Illiniza Sur’s summit at 17,218ft.

After their climb they descended back to the bus and drove to Hacienda La Cienega, one of the oldest Hacienda’s in Ecuador, for a well earned and luxurious rest.

Today the team will head up to the Cayambe hut for two nights, making their summit bid on the second night. They’ll be out of internet and cell service there, but we’re excited to see the photos and hear how the climb went when they get back down!

Congrats on your first summit team! Best of luck on Cayambe.

Cheers,

CTSS Team

Illiniza Refugio at sunset, Illiniza Sur in the background - photo Robert Jantzen
Steep climbing on Illiniza Sur - Photo Phill Russel
Ascending the final summit ridge on Illiniza Sur - Photo Franklin Varela
Ascending the final summit ridge on Illiniza Sur - Photo Franklin Varela

Aconcagua Team Updates

Our Private Aconcagua Team Carries to C2

The private Aconcagua team with Guide Quique has done a great job today, carrying to Camp 2 and returning back to Camp 1. This allows them to cache gear and acclimatise. The team are strong and moving at a great pace. Weather has been spectacular. Tomorrow they will move up and continue on schedule. They are tentatively taking aim at the 7th February for their summit day.

Meanwhile in Mendoza, our team have all arrived and are eager to get moving and out the door to the trailhead. Today they had their first team meeting and Guide briefing, everyone is bonding really well. Tomorrow the vans will drive them to the trailhead where they will begin their approach hike over coming days.

All well in Argentina

Cheers
CTSS Team

CTSS Feb 23 Team in Mendoza - Pic Josh McDowell

Ecuador Team Prepares for First Summit

Ecuador Team Prepares for Our First Summit

The team are currently preparing for their first summit. With the upper slopes of Cotopaxi unfortunately out of commission due to ongoing volcanic activity we have pivoted our program and focus to Illiniza Sur which holds the most interest for our team of strong climbers.

Guide Robert reports "After driving to Cotopaxi yesterday, we hiked up to the refuge but a hail storm rolled in preventing us from moving up to the training area. We headed back down to some rock cliffs to complete our rope training. The team performed well and we headed back to Chilcabamba Lodge for some lovely local trout!

Tomorrow we will head for the Illiniza trailhead, get some rest in preparation for an alpine start and fingers crossed our first summit of the trip."

Hiking through a light layer of fresh snow towards the training area - Robert Jantzen
Team rolling into the refuge at 16,000ft on Cotopaxi - Photo Robert Jantzen

Aconcagua Private Team hits Camp 1

Aconcagua Private Team Hits Camp 1

The weather is looking good on Aconcagua! Lead guide, Quique, checked in from base camp yesterday to report our private group climb is doing well and moving on schedule.

The team arrived in Plaza Argentina base camp on Sunday and has taken several days to rest, acclimatize, and carry gear to Camp 1. Today, they moved to Camp 1 in excellent time and will make their carry to Camp 2 tomorrow.

Meanwhile we look forward to welcoming our February Team in Mendoza today.

Cheers
CTSS Team


Time to get climbing in Ecuador!

Over in Ecuador - it's time to get climbing!

Today started with a short drive from Quito to Cotopaxi National park where we begin our acclimatisation hike up Ruminahui. A fine start to the day, with some great views of Cotopaxi, (who is showing off more than usual) turned south mid afternoon when the rain and hail moved in.

Our team did a great job and got to just below the summit at 15,140ft, where hail stones made it more like skating than climbing and for the sake of safety we descended to the cars and headed for the flamboyantly named Chilcabamba Lodge for some well earned dinner by a nice warm wood stove.

Tomorrow its off to the lower slopes of Cotopaxi and up to 16,600ft for some snow training! Onwards and upwards!

The teams high point, Ruminahui Central's true summit in the background - photo Franklin Varela

Ecuador Team Expedition Kicks Off

And they’re off!!! Our first Ecuador team expedition of 2023 kicked off today in Quito.

Today the team got rolling with gear checks in the morning before heading over to the Teleferico for the first round of acclimatization hikes. Located on the flanks of Pichincha, a volcanoes overlooking Quito, the Teleferico takes passengers from about 10,000 feet to 13,200 feet and drops them off at the base of a gentle hiking trail. By taking the Teleferico our climbers get a chance to “climb high, sleep low” priming their body to adapt to a higher altitude.

After spending a little over an hour hiking above 13,000 feet the team descended and drove to the Equator for lunch and to visit the museum surrounding the location of the first official survey of the Equator in 1736 during the French Geodetic Expedition.

Tomorrow brings a departure from Quito for another acclimatization hike on Ruminahui, an extinct volcano within Cotopaxi National Park rising to 15,203 feet.

Good luck to our climbers!

Cheers,

CTSS Team

Equator! - Photo Robert Jantzen
View of Quito from Teleferico Hike - Photo Robert Jantzen

Ecuador Cayambe Summits!

Our private Cayambe climb summited yesterday in fantastic conditions, congratulations!!! The mountain provided excellent snow conditions and the weather was ideal with no clouds, good temps and low winds. Getting a full day with hardly any clouds is rare in Ecuador and our team made the most of it.

After summit the team drove down to a nearby resort town of Papallacta for some well deserved rest and relaxation. Today they returned to Quito to wrap up the expedition.

Congratulations on a well earned summit!

Cheers,

CTSS Team

Cayambe Summit! Photo Edgar Parra
Bergschrund just below Cayambe’s summit - Photo Edgar Parra
Rolling into a break at 18,400ft - Photo Edgar Parra
Sunrise high on Cayambe - Photo Edgar Parra
Taking a break lower down on Cayambe with the glow of Quito in the background - Photo Robert Jantzen