Summit Bids Underrway
12th May
After such incredible patience waiting for the winds on the upper mountain to abate and the right weather window to appear, the time has finally come and a number of our team have just launched into their summit bids.
Leaving Base Camp, this morning and already reaching Camp 1 we have:
- Western Guided Team - Led by Quique Claussen, Robert Jantzen and Pemba Geljie, are Bruce McC, Ben S & Schuyler E
- Kevin C and Guide Ashish
- Roberto T and Guide Pasang Tendi
- Olivier T & Guide Casey
- Mark Postle
- Tom L and Guide Tomi Ceppi
- Matt B and Guide Kami
- Taylor G and Guide Naren
- Kirstie E, Rob G and Guide Anup
At Base Camp preparing for their summit rotation, Sam C, Rajat S, Lisa B, Jen W, Ott T, Ludivine L, Rohan F, Damian M, Zukey and Travis.
Finishing her final rotation is Julie M, who will come down and rest for a few days before she also launches into her summit bid.
After a year or more of training, huge personal and family sacrifices made, these climbers are not only determined but also so excited that their moment has come and game day is here. We are wishing them all enormous luck, they deserve every success.
For those of us at home, this is always a time full of mixed emotions as our loved ones pursue their life long goals. Please remember that no news is good news, time can feel like it moves slowly in the mountains and there are still days of climbing ahead of them.
All is well on Everest today.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Photos from the CTSS archives
Second Rotations & Patience
The team are doing great. Many of them are now ready for their summit bid but are happily being patient as we wait for the high winds on the upper mountain to abate. The table tennis tournament is heating up with the finals tomorrow!
Finishing their second rotation, Travis and Guide New Tendi hit their goal of Camp 3 and returned to Base Camp today, the rest of the team will tag Camp 3 or the base of the Lhotse Face.
Kirstie & Rob moved from Camp 1 up to Camp 2 and Martin and Mingma Dorjee did an acclimatization hike towards Camp 2 returning to Camp 1 for the night.
Back at Base the majority of the crew are resting, training and ice climbing, with Kevin, Robert J and Damian enjoying their dropback in Lukla. Neil F has been really enjoying his hike down valley towards Lukla and he'll fly back to Kathmandu shortly.
We are looking forward to the next few weeks as we position for our summits but all is well on Everest.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Updates from the Everest Team
Morning of the 5th May
Our teams are doing great, let's check in with where everyone is starting from high to low :)
At Camp 3 we have 18 of our strongest sherpa. They have pivoted their plan of carrying oxygen to the South Col due to high winds plaguing the upper mountain and are instead using the day to build out our camp on the Lhotse Face. They will descend to Camp 2 tonight before heading up in coming days to cache our summit oxygen at the South Col.
At Camp 2 we have Travis who will tag the base of the Lhotse Face today, OT & Guide Casey who made record time coming up from Camp 1 already this morning. They will be joined shortly by Jen and Guide Big Pasang, Sam C & Thu Nang, Lisa B & Guide Prakash, Rajat & Guide Pega, Rohan & Sujan; who are also coming up from Camp 1 to Camp 2.
14x sherpa are also moving up to Camp 2 ferrying loads and will come back down today.
Pre dawn this morning Martin & Sherpa Mingma headed up to Camp 1 and made great time, moving well.
At Base Camp, continuing their rest ad active recovery is our Western Guided Team Climbers, Roberto & Guide Pasang, Ott & Dorjee, Zukey & Vinay, Ludivine and Dawa, Tom & Guide Tomi, Taylor & Guide Naren. We are also looking forward to welcoming back to EBC after their dropbacks, Matt B & Julie McK with Guide Tendi.
In Lukla, Robert J, Kevin C & Damian M are enjoying the thicker air on a dropback. We will welcome them back to camp in coming days.
The weather has been sunny and clear but the jet stream is currently over the upper mountain so winds are high for the next 4-5 days.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Second Wave of Second Rotations
3rd May
We've been having fun at Base Camp as we rest between rotations while we let the red blood cell count increase. Lisa B held a hilarious trivia day, which was supposedly "international" but debate is that she subconsciously skewed it in favour of the Brits with Ben S and Schuyler E taking home the gong!
Speaking of winners; training for the annual CTSS table tennis tournament is on, and everyone is getting pretty good. The Sherpa in particular have been putting in the most time at the practice table so we'll see who takes home the Ping Pong Champion jacket this year.
With the weather now clearing, and clear night skies, we return our focus to the mountain. Let's give you an update of where everyone is:
Before dawn this morning;
Travis & Guide New Tendi
Jen & Guide Pasang
Kirstie & Guide Anup with Rob G and Guide Kami
Sam C & Thunang
Lisa B & Guide Prakash
Rajat & Guide Pega
Rohan & Guide Sujan
climbed through the icefall and are at Camp 1 starting their second rotation, the plan will be to tag Camp 3 over the next few days to mark a new high point ahead of their summit bids. We can expect them to be out of camp for 4-5 nights.
Meanwhile;
Neil F & Bir Bhadur have done an acclimatization climb into the icefall and are returning to Base Camp to rest, our Western Guided Team alongside Roberto and Guide Pasang are ladder training and skills training and Zukey & Guide Vinay, Kevin & Guide Ashish, Ott & Guide Dorjee are doing an active recovery/acclimatization hike to Pumori Camp 1.
Tom L with Ellie and Guide Tomi are returning from their rest in Kathmandu and we are looking forward to welcoming them back to Base Camp.
Slightly below Base Camp;
Mark Postle, Julie McK & Guide Tendi are in Pheriche and they will come back to Base Camp in coming days.
Cheers
CTSS Team
e
Returning to Base
28th April
What a fantastic few days the team have had up high and with some snow on the way, these perfectly timed rotations come to a close and the team will retreat to Base Camp (on the 29th April) to wait out the next window and take a well deserved rest and some reconnection with loved ones via wifi!
As a run down on where everyone is;
Today, Rob Gowler & Guide Kami Temba dropped from Camp 1 back to Base Camp
At Camp 2, up and having breakfast at 4:30am, descending by 5:30am on 29th we have:
- Our Western Guided Team Climbers
- Ludivine & Damian and their respective personal sherpa
- Guide Pasang & Roberto
- Guide Vinay & Zukey
- Guide Kami & Matt
- Guide Dorjee & Ott
- Guide Ashish & Kevin
- Guide Naren & Taylor
- Guide Tomi & Tom L
They will descend along with 20x of our Sherpa team all the way back to Base Camp.
The team at Base Camp include:
- Olivier & Guide Casey who took an active recovery climb to Pumori Camp 1 (A great spot just behind camp that affords sensational views of Everest) joining them were:
- Guide Pasang & Jen W
- Guide Sujan and Rohan
- Guide Pega & Rajat
- Guide Prakash & Lisa
Kirstie E & Guide Anup spent some time in the lower Khumbu icefall, doing a bit of training and going for and our Seattle speed ascenders took a full rest day.
Lower down valley, we have Julie, Sam C & Tracy resting up and returning to the action shortly.
It's great to see everyone doing so well and weaving their acclimatization perfectly into the weather windows. As we near May, all eyes will turn to the longer range forecasts and you can expect to see our teams positioning themselves for their second rotation and even some for their summit bids.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Continued Progress on Everest
27th April
There's plenty of movement on the mountain for our CTSS teams.
Our Western Guided Team are back up the hill on their second rotation and are moving today from Camp 1 through the Western CWM to Camp 2.
Joining them in moving from C1 up to Camp 2 are Lhotse Climber Damian & his personal sherpa Doma, as well as Ludivine and personal sherpa Dawa who are on their first rotation and plan to spend 1x night at Camp 2 before returning to Camp 1 tomorrow.
30 Day Speed Ascenders Rob G and Guide Kami are also climbing out of Camp 1 and intend to tag Camp 2 but return to Camp 1 tonight. It's their first foray up the hill.
Already at Camp 2, you will find Private Climbers Tom L & Guide Tomi, Matt B & Guide Kami are taking a rest day while Taylor and Guide Naren, Zukey & Guide Vinay, Kevin and Guide Ashish, Roberto & Guide Pasang, Ott & Guide Dorjee are all moving slightly higher today to do an acclimatization climb up to tag the base of the Lhotse Face and will return to Camp 2 to sleep tonight. So it will be busy at Camp 2!
Just below them at Camp 1, our Seattle Speed Ascenders (Travis & Justin) are dropping back down to EBC. We are excited to welcome them back to Camp after a successful first rotation.
Resting and recovering at Everest Base Camp (where unfortunately the internet has been a bit spotty of late) are:
Kirstie E and Guide Anup,
Jen W and Guide Pasang
Lisa B and Guide Prakash
OT and Guide Casey
Rajat & Guide Pega
Rohan & Guide Sujan
Below them, breathing in some thicker air to help shake off a few bugs, is Sam Cairns in Lukla, Julie McK & Tracy in Kathmandu.
While it can feel like a lot to get your head around and the team feels very spread out, that's actually what CTSS specialize in. Our skillset is not in lumping everyone together and making them all move to the beat of the same drum, but remaining adaptable and offering a more intricate level of logistics and a high level of guidance to maximize and accommodate everyone's pace, how they are feeling at the time, their individual acclimatization rates etc.
No one is just a number on a cattle train, each climber is an individual catered and cared for, to give them the best shot at the summit. It's a long expedition, strategy is key.
We are excited by the team's progress!
Cheers
CTSS Team
Comings and Goings on Everest
25th April
The team are doing amazingly well and are right on, if not slightly ahead of schedule.
Our Western Guided Team have enjoyed a few days of rest at Base Camp, getting massages, recharging with Chef Marc David and Chef Kumar's delicious food and doing training drills in the lower part of the icefall. They are planning to kick off their 2nd rotation tonight (local Nepalese time) and will be moving up through the icefall in the early hours when it is most stable. Their goal is to tag Camp 3 and their schedule is fluid to take best advantage of how they are feeling and the conditions on the mountain etc. We will welcome them back to Base Camp in about 5 days.
We welcomed back to Base Camp after a successful rotation, many of our Private 1:1 climbers; Lisa with Guide Prakash, Rajat with Guide Pega, Olivier with Guide Casey, Jen with Guide Big Pasang, they will rest and recover now before planning their next rotation in a few days.
Above Base Camp we have Taylor with Guide Naren, Matt with Guide Kami, Roberto with Guide Pasang Tendi, Zukey with Guide Vinay, Kevin with Guide Ashish, Tom L with Guide Tomi, Tracy with Guide Mark Postle. They have tagged Camp 2 and are sleeping at Camp 1 for another night before they will drop back down to Base Camp to mark the end of their first rotation.
Moving up the mountain and sleeping at Camp 1, we also have our Seattle 40 Day Speed Ascenders! as well as Rohan, Damian (our Lhotse climber) and Ludivine. They will look to tag Camp 2 tomorrow before returning for a second night at Camp 1.
Meanwhile; 30 Day Speed Ascenders, Rob & Kirstie have been doing drills in the lower part of the icefall and ladder training, and Neil F who diverted for a climb of Lobuche but faced some heavy snow on the route, has pivoted and come into Base Camp. They will start eyeing the schedule to begin their first rotation.
All is well on team CTSS!
Pics from the CTSS archive.
Updates from EBC
23rd April
Good morning from EBC! Where the skies are blue, the cappuccinos are delivered to your tent steaming and frothy...
We welcomed the Western Guided Team (Bruce, Ben, Schuyler, Jay, Nick, Sam with Guides Robert & Quique) safely back to camp after a really successful rotation. They spent 2x nights at Camp 1 and successfully made their way up the Western CWM to tag Camp 2. They reported a longer, but good route through the icefall and made good time. They were welcomed back down with Guide Tomi's famous 'Pizza night' where he shakes off the Guide uniform crampons and commanders the chef's hat from Marc to take over the kitchen. Tomi's pizzas are famous and as much fun as they are delicious as everyone gets involved.
Before dawn this morning, many of our private 1:1 climbers started out to begin their first rotation, above Base Camp we have Roberto T with Guide Pasang Tendi, Julie with Guide Tendi, Jen W with Guide Big Pasang, Matt B with Guide Kami, Rajat with Guide Pega, Lisa B with Guide Prakash, Taylor G with Guide Naren, Olivier with Guide Casey, Ott with Guide Dorjee, Tracy with Guide Mark Postle. They've got great weather today and are at the time of writing, pulling into Camp 1, where they will spend their first night. They each have custom schedules, so we'll keep you updated on their various movements over the coming days. Being able to customize the schedule to how each individual is feeling is one of the greatest advantages of our 1:1 programs.
Hot on their tails, Zukey & Guide Vinay, Tom L and Guide Tomi, and Kevin and Guide Ashish are taking a rest and prep day today, they will spend the afternoon packing and their plan is to head out early tomorrow morning to begin their first rotation too.
Our personal sherpa climbers; Ludivine, Rohan, Damian (Lhotse climber) and Jan, are taking a short hike into the lower part of the icefall today as part of training. Meanwhile our 40 Day speed ascenders (Travis, Martin & Justin) are spending time doing ladder crossing training drills to get familiar with crossing the aluminium ladders the icefall doctors span crevasses in the icefall with. It's a bit of a skill to make sure your crampons fit securely (but not get stuck) between the rungs of the ladder so practice makes perfect.
Finally, we are looking forward to welcoming in our final team members Kirstie, Rob & Neil who are on our 30 day speed program as they make their way into Base Camp over the next few days.
All is well and everyone doing great.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Puja paving the way
20th April 2023 on Everest
An auspicious day for the team with our Puja ceremony being held yesterday, opening the way for us to begin our Everest climb in earnest. A Puja is a Tibetan Buddhist ritual that is part of Sherpa life, the purpose of which is to ask the mountain deity for safe passage and of course to celebrate.
Those of us that have participated in many Puja’s were in agreement that this was one of the best one. Many climbers form all over camp came to join us in this celebration and the lamas chanted and blessed for several hours and of course there was lots of good food and drink on offer! It was a great chance for us to socialize and celebrate with each other, Sherpa and non-Sherpa alike and solidify our bonds before heading higher. We concluded with a traditional Sherpa dance, locking arms and forming a semi circle in front of the Puja alter. We ‘Mikaru’ (or ‘foreigner’ which roughly translates to ‘white eyes’) tried to emulate the Sherpa as best we could!
The culmination of the ceremony is raising the Puja pole in the center of the alter and stringing prayer flags over our camp, building a zone of protection for the team. When the flags blow in the wind it is thought by the Sherpa that they send out prayers. This has become a common part of any Everest and Lhotse expedition and the Sherpa, who draw no distinction between their daily lives and their Tibetan Buddhism, appreciate and welcome us in this ritual.
With the Puja complete, our Western Guided team have launched into their first acclimatization rotation, leaving Base Camp in the early hours while the icefall is at its most stable. The forecast looks good and the plan is to sleep at Camp One tonight, tag Camp 2 tomorrow, returning to Camp 1 for a second night before dropping back to Base Camp. The schedule is flexible and will take into account how the team are feeling etc.
Our private 1:1 climbers are working independently with their guides on their schedules and training in the lower part of the Khumbu icefall/glacier just outside of camp. We'll keep you abreast of their movements when they start uphill.
Lower in the valley, we bid farewell to our 3 Peaks climbers, who had an epic trip with 3/3 summits of Lobuche, Pokalde and Island Peak! Congratulations guys! Along with a number of our EBC trekkers and Lobuche climbers who have become a true part of our family. We wish them all safe travels back home.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Updates from the Khumbu - 15th April
15th April 2023
Hi everyone!
The expedition is ticking along on schedule and as planned; to give you an update on everyone's various movements...
Our Western Guided Summit Team spent the day at Base Camp training in the Khumbu Glacier just outside of camp. While their skills are well established and fresh, we like to do lots of drills to commit everything to muscle memory so its second nature.
We have now waved farewell to our Rugged Luxury EBC Trek team who flew from Base Camp by helicopter and arrived back in Kathmandu ahead of their city tour and the famed degustation dinner at Dwarikas before they head home.
Our 3 Peaks climbers, are also splintering off now after 2x nights at EBC to climb Pokalde and Island Peak. They will hit Lobuche town again today before going to Pokalde High Camp tomorrow.
Our EBC and Gokyo trekkers are on their way to Jong Lha, tomorrow they will head over the Chola Pass to Gokyo Lake.
The Crum family are now descending from their stay in Base Camp, they will climb Kala Pattar and then sleep at Pheriche tonight before descending to Namche tomorrow.
Our Private 1:1 Climbers have finished their Lobuche acclimatization climb, and are coming up to Base Camp, we expect just after lunchtime today.
Our Personal Sherpa and Lhotse climbers, (April 3rd wave) are currently at High Camp on Lobuche, they'll set off in the early hours to summit tomorrow morning before coming into Base Camp in a few days.
& Finally, our 40 Day Speed Ascenders have safely flown into Pheriche now and are making their way up to Lobuche.
Plenty of movement in the Khumbu but everyone happy, safe and well
Cheers
CTSS Team
