Ama Dablam Expedition Beta
Elevation: 6,812m or 22,300ft
Duration: 27 Days
Continent: Asia
Country: Nepal
Route: Southwest Ridge Route
Difficulty: Advanced Intermediate
Special Considerations: To consider an ascent of Ama Dablam, participants must have a strong technical ability with experience using crampons, ice axes and fixed lines.
Previous experience on prolonged mountain expeditions is also desired, especially at high altitude. This is a very strenuous expedition so a high level of fitness is required.
Though fixed lines help climbers navigate some of the most technical route sections it is important for all Ama Dablam climbers to be comfortable with exposure, and moving through steep rocky terrain up to grade 5.8 or 5.9.
An ascent of Ama Dablam is a great option if you have past alpine rock climbing experience (for instance the Grand Teton in the USA, the Matterhorn in Switzerland, Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia) and/or have climbed peaks like Lobuche East, Island Peak, Elbrus in Russia, or Denali in the United States.
If you’re not sure if you have the experience for this climb, please ask us. We can recommend a training regime, progression climbs and skills courses to make sure youare prepared and successful on your Ama Dablam climb.

Expedition Beta and Strategy
Our Ama Dablam climb meets in Kathmandu where we obtain our permits, run through gear checks and have a team meeting. Following our time in Kathmandu we fly to Lukla to start the trek. We land at the Hillary runway at roughly 9,000ft/3,000m. From the moment you land in Lukla you will be at altitude. It’s important to take it easy and let your body adjust to the altitude naturally. From here we make our way up the Khumbu valley staying at some of the best teahouses in the region in order to mitigate the stress so you can focus on the climb.
Hygiene is incredibly important to us and we take many precautions to make sure our team avoids getting sick. Despite this, illness can be a fact of life in Nepal so chances are people will at least experience a stomach rumbling at some point during the trek.
Once en route we use a slow, methodical acclimatization strategy to position ourselves for the summit bid. Most treks rush this process and suffer the consequences of altitude illness because of it.
Our Ama Dabalm base camp is the finest on the mountain. We spare little expense making you feel as comfortable as possible. Our top-notch cooks make you the healthiest food possible with strong hygiene standards.
What makes the beauty and excitement of trekking in this majestic land even better is being part of the lovely and hospitable Sherpa culture. Sherpa are known the world over for their graciousness and generosity.
Enjoy spending time visiting famous cultural and religious sights on our way through this scenic valley in the shadow of the world’s highest mountains. Our slow acclimatization schedule means there is plenty of time to explore landmarks like the famous Tengboche Monastery where you can stop by to visit a High Lama and receive a blessing, take time to explore the famous Namche Bazaar – the Sherpa capital or have a beer in the world’s highest pub. Passing by countless Tibetan Buddhist stupas and chortens, you will feel the rich culture of Tibetan Buddhism come alive.
We choose to implement a slow acclimatization schedule, not just so you can take in the sights and sounds of the valley but to ensure you enjoy your trek and feel great during the climb. Altitude isn’t something to be feared; it’s achievable for most people but it isn’t a process that can be rushed. Treks that move too quickly often have disgruntled, unwell people because their bodies are struggling to adjust.
Yes, a climb of Ama Dablam requires excellent fitness, and strong technical skills but it is an achievable goal. You need to have the mindset to be away from home for several weeks, along with the desire for adventure travel. The Khumbu is still a remote place with few of the creature comforts we have come to expect at home so it’s best to suspend your expectations of 5 star luxury, super smooth trails and blazing fast internet. In fact, when you embrace it, you’ll enjoy the slower pace of life and being a little disconnected from the rush of the Western world. That said, we do provide many of the comforts of home, select tea houses that are clean, have great food, offer hot showers, and support 3rd party wifi internet for purchase.
How is our program unique
We encourage you to research your many options when it comes to picking a guide service for your dream Ama Dablam climb. As a popular climb, we know that there are a variety of operators to choose from who offer different styles and therefore prices. A few ways in which we differ and add value to our trips are:
- CTSS Owner Mike Hamill oversees each expedition: Mike Hamill, 6 times Everest summiteer and leader of 25+ X 8000m expeditions personally oversees the planning and execution of each Ama Dablam expedition. The only way for a company owner to ensure that a trip improves every year and is led to the highest standards is for them to personally oversee and be present in the planning and execution of the expedition.
- The best teahouses: CTSS always stays at some of the finest teahouses in the valley. We choose our teahouses based upon quality of accommodations, hygiene and cleanliness, food and hospitality. The Khumbu Valley teahouses are rustic to be sure, and this is adventure travel. Even so, you will be in relative luxury.
- The best guides: This is hugely important- please research the quality and experience of your guides thoroughly. All of our guides have extensive knowledge of the region and have proven themselves at altitude time and again. Many of them have dozens of trips to Nepal and have stood on top of Mt. Everest so can talk about what it’s like to climb the world’s biggest mountains.
- Highest paid Sherpa: We purposely pay our Sherpa more than anyone so that they are happy and take care of our clients. Year in, year out we can attract the best talent. Our world-class team of Sherpa are hand-picked by Sirdar Tendi Sherpa and CTSS owner Mike Hamill to ensure we have the cream of the crop. They are all close friends who we have complete confidence in. Because they are paid well they go the extra mile to make sure base camp is exceptional and that our clients are extremely well taken care of. Once they’ve been selected for the team, they go through intensive training and a 5-day review process which includes mountain medicine, client care, technical rescue, and guiding principles before being ok’ed to work. We believe in our Sherpa and know that they will do a great job for you and become friends for life.
Expedition Leadership
This expedition will be organized by guide and owner of CTSS, Mike Hamill. Mike is universally regarded as one of the most experienced and respected high altitude mountaineers and expedition leaders in the world.
He has personally guided thousands of climbers on the Seven Summits and well over 300 climbers have stood atop 8000m peaks, including Everest with him. A guide for over 20 years, he boasts a 91% expedition success rate and an 83% climber summit success rate for all of his expeditions worldwide.
He has stood on top of Everest 6x and currently holds the record for most non-Sherpa summits of Cho Oyu. He’s also the author of the guidebook “Climbing the Seven Summits,”
To complement his leadership, Mike has hand-picked a selection of the finest mountaineering professionals from around the world to make up the international CTSS guiding team.
Our team are some of the most highly experienced and qualified guides in the world. Chosen for their attention to detail, safety records along with their fun, genuine and caring personalities, we have no hesitation in saying they are the best. Mike holds the CTSS staff to the same high standards as he holds himself.
Who you choose for expedition organization and leadership is a big deal – it can be the difference between a great expedition and a miserable, potentially dangerous one and you only want the best in your corner. The fact that Mike and his guides have an unprecedented safety record should be a paramount consideration in who you choose to climb with.
Mike and the CTSS team’s love for the mountains and adventure continues in our corporate social responsibility policy. A portion of profits and fundraising climbs are organized every year in support of the “Tiger of the Snows Fund” a not-for-profit that provides grants to further education of mountain tourism workers and their families.
Climbing the Seven Summits’ primary aim is to help you attain your personal climbing and trekking goals while experiencing the best of our planet, its unique cultures and environments.
We strive to offer the highest quality mountaineering expeditions and treks at a great value while focusing on our primary goals: safety, success, and enjoyment.
We achieve this by bringing our extensive experience, top of the line logistics individualized service, and world-class guides to each adventure we undertake.
To give our clients the highest possible chance at success we are detailed in our approach, ensuring we’ve dotted our ‘i’s and crossed our ‘t’s. We provide personalized service, employ conservative acclimatization schedules, use top of the line mountaineering, camping and communications gear, hire only the best mountain leaders and we don’t skimp on costs.
Our expeditions strive to set the highest standards and climb in “good style”. By this we mean prioritising the wellbeing and safety of our teams, leaving no trace on the environments we operate in, respecting culture, contributing to local economies by employing regional partners and paying them higher than the industry standard and working in a self-sufficient and self-reliant way. We promote a responsible approach to adventure travel by connecting people to the natural world and giving back to local communities by donating a percentage of every expedition to ‘Tiger of the Snows Fund”
We take immense pride in our expeditions and this shows in the positive feedback we receive from our teams who form lasting friendships forged in the mountains as they work together and overcome tough challenges.
Great leaders like Mike inspire and lead people to take on challenges and achieve great things.
- Tim Igo

Ama Dablam
AMA DABLAM | Asia
Price Range:
$17,495 USD
Elevation:
6812m
Duration:
29 Days
Difficulty:
Intermediate/Advanced
Route:
Southwest Ridge Route
Share Expedition
Often called the most beautiful mountain in the world, Ama Dablam is iconic in its shape and prominent in the Khumbu Valley in Nepal. This stunning peak is an iconic goal for climbers interested in steeper technical climbing.
Climbing Ama Dablam is an incredible stand-alone goal or a great way to build skills and strength in your journey to 8000+ meter peaks.
Though well protected with fixed lines, reaching the summit requires a high level of fitness and strong technical skills, but all who make it are rewarded with incredible views down the Khumbu valley towards the world’s highest mountains.
The vista from the summit of Ama Dablam is one of the best summit views in the world!


Highlights:
- Climb one of the most iconic peaks in the world
- Test yourself at nearly 7,000 meters
- Take in incredible views through the Khumbu valley and experience its rich culture and history
- Spend a night at the most photographed and recognisable high camp in Nepal – Camp 2
- Test your technical skills on the near-vertical Yellow Tower and precipitous Mushroom Ridge en route to the summit
- Be part of an amazing community of intrepid climbers and explorers from all over the world who you will meet during your time on the trek, climb, and summit of Ama Dablam
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Ama Dablam Expedition Options
Our Ama Dablam expedition is one of our most popular Himalayan climbs. Iconic and technical, it is truly a climber’s climb with technical snow, rock, and ice climbing.
Choose from our stand-alone climb, Ama Dablam Team Climb, or plan a one-of-a-kind expedition with a private climb where you can dovetail it in with other climbs in the Himalayas, like Manaslu.
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How early should I commit to my climb?
We feel that the sooner you commit the better as it gives you more time to prepare mentally and physically for the climb. Climbing Ama Dablam is a big undertaking and something that you will want to work up to consistently. I have found that people are generally more successful when they commit earlier as it gives them longer to shake out any problems that may arise, arrange their home and work life to be away for a number of months, and build their fitness endurance and strength up over time and thereby avoid injury etc.
What’s the best climb to prepare for Ama Dablam?
Lobuche is a great peak to summit as training for Ama Dablam. It provides an intro into technical climbing as well as dealing with altitude. Other great options include Denali, Island Peak, Mera Peak. Our 3 Peaks expedition makes for a perfect stepping stone to an Ama Dablam ascent.
If you’re from the Americas, or simply want and amazing climbing experience, the Ecuadorean Volcanoes is one of the best ways to get a lot of high altitude climbing in a short amount of time and is a crowd favorite. This program also makes for a perfect prerequisite to an Ama Dablam climb.
Will I need to purchase insurance?
Yes, trip insurance is required for this program and it needs to cover the entire cost of the trip and include trip cancellation, trip interruption, medical expenses, repatriation, and evacuation for the entire length of the expedition. Please forward a copy of your insurance for our records so that we can help you in the event that it needs to be used during the expedition. Most insurers require us to contact them immediately. For more information on trip insurance please visit the “Trip Insurance” page
What program upgrades are available?
If you would like a more personalized climb we can arrange for you to climb 1:1 with one of our lead Sherpa guides or a Western private guide.
The other main add-on for Ama Dablam programs is single rooming upgrades and/or deluxe rooms in the trekking lodges. Please discuss this add-on with us and we can help you decide if it is right for you.
It’s a long time away from home – can my family and friends join me?
Yes, your family and friends are more than welcome to join us on the trek into base camp and may be able to come up to camp 1 with us as well depending on their ability. Please let us know immediately if you have people who want to join us so that we can make arrangements for them. Space in hotels in Kathmandu and in the teahouses is limited during climbing season so we need to know final numbers asap!
What’s the acclimatization process?
Our entire expedition including the trip to base camp is slow in order to allow our bodies ample time to acclimate. In the Khumbu, we gaining altitude quickly and this slow process will allow us to acclimate properly and avoid altitude sickness. That means there is plenty of down time while your body adjusts. Please bring a few books or movies on your devices and be patient. This is a slow process but it will give you a much better chance at success on the climb and trek. Make sure to communicate with your guides directly if you are experiencing any altitude issues.
How much cash should I bring?
It is better to have more money than you need than not enough, while most things are covered on the trip once you land in Kathmandu (check what’s included/what’s not included list for details) you will still need cash. The cash that you need to bring includes money for visas ($50 for 1 single entry 30 day), Sherpa tip pool ($600+ for climbers and $300 for trekkers), money for staff tips (customary but optional) $200 for potential consultation and treatment by the doctors at base camp, $500 to cover expenses for a potential early departure (not often, but sometimes this occurs) and $1,500 – $5,000 if you think you’ll want a helicopter ride out, $300 for miscellaneous expenses like non-group meals, shopping, drinks around Kathmandu and while on the trip to base camp if you want wifi, sodas, specialty coffees, bottled water, charging of devices or snacks (meals are covered), Generally we recommend bringing $2,000 – $3,000 USD plus a credit card to cover all potential expenses including an early departure but it is unlikely that you will need all of this. Small denominations (1’s, 5’s, 10’s and 20’s) are better and although American dollars are accepted, you can change money into Nepali rupees at change houses when you arrive. Rates are generally about the same and I’ve never encountered one that isn’t legitimate. Also, there are now quite a few ATM’s around town where you can use your card to take out local cash at a good rate. It is much more difficult to change money, especially large sums, once in the Khumbu Valley. Please let your credit card company know you will be traveling so you can use your card (and not set off the fraud alert due to using the card in a foreign country).
How much gear can I bring?
We pay for yak + porter transport for two 50lb duffels (1x trekking duffel which will travel with you and 1x climbing duffel which will go straight to base camp) this should be more than enough weight. If you want to bring more than this with you, you will be expected to pay for the excess weight. This amount will include excess on the flight to Lukla and then be roughly $300/duffel each way to base camp beyond the two duffel allotments. Transport is getting more expensive every year so please leave the kitchen sink at home! (we already have those at base camp) Just bring what you need to be comfortable but not more than that. It is unlikely that you will need two full duffels for the Ama Dablam climb so please bring only one if you can fit everything into one.
What immunizations do I need?
Make sure your immunizations are up to date. Consult your doctor, local travel clinic, or the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) for updated information on immunizations for Nepal and China. Recommended immunizations include diphtheria-tetanus (DPT), polio, mumps-measles-rubella (MMR), meningitis, hepatitis A and B, cholera and typhoid, and rabies. Malaria shouldn’t be a problem in Kathmandu or on the climb. If you plan to travel to lower-elevation areas in Nepal before or after the climb, you should consider malaria chemoprophylaxis.
How should I pack?
For the trip to base camp climbers will need to pack in two separate duffels: a base camp duffel and a trekking duffel. Climber’s base camp duffel will not be accessible while on the trek to Ama Dablam and should contain all of your climbing gear (crampons, axes, down suit etc) and items you won’t need until the mountain. Your trekking duffel will contain everything you will need for the trip to base camp including your trekking gear, rain gear, street clothes, and a light sleeping bag. Trekkers will have everything with them in one duffel. Please keep everything you will need with you such as medications and medical supplies. What will go in your trekking and base camp duffels will be covered in more detail in Kathmandu. Pack an additional small lightweight duffel in your luggage to leave street, travel clothes and things you won’t need on the expedition at the hotel in Kathmandu.
What is the food like on the climb?
At Base Camp CTSS has the best chefs and food, hands down. Our teams are consistently blown away by the quality of food and hygiene at base camp considering where we are in the world. Our head chef trains at 5 star restaurants during the off season. Think lemon crepes, cheese omelets, chicken cordon bleu, pizza, fresh fruit almost daily, fresh salads, steaks, apple pie, fresh croissants and cinnamon rolls, and moist chocolate cake. We get shipments of fresh meat, fruit, vegetable, and other supplies weekly.
I have dietary requirements, can you cater for those?
Yes, our chefs are amazing and are well versed in catering for a wide variety of dietary requirements and allergies. On the trek we order a la carte so you can choose what you like and what you need to avoid. Please feel free to chat to us about your needs.
Why do I need to bring my own snacks?
We do provide a selection of snacks for the mountain and will have lots of good stuff but we want to make sure everyone has the food that they need. Even people who aren’t usually picky about food can get really particular about what they can digest on Ama Dablam due to the extreme altitude and getting lots of calories is hugely important. Gu packs, shot blocks, nuts, Snickers bars, cheese, etc… whatever it is that you know you can eat when you don’t want to eat anything is best. Getting speciality and familiar food can be difficult in Nepal so it’s best you bring what you love from home. Also, bring a good supply of cough drops or hard candy as you might like them in the dry air. We’ll have some for the team but people seem to go through them really quickly.
How safe is the food and water?
As in Kathmandu, once on the trail into base camp it is highly recommended that you stick to treated rather than tap water. Properly boiled water is available in all the teahouses and bottled water is readily available in stores en route but to reduce the amount of trash and pollution in the valley we encourage you buying boiled or UV treated water from teahouses. You can also bring your own water treatment solution. We will provide some teas and coffees at meal times but if you want sodas, bottled waters, specialty coffees, or drinks outside of meal times we ask that you purchase them yourself. Nepal isn’t known for its cuisine. The food on the trek to base camp can become a bit monotonous but its energy dense and fulfilling. Asian inspired, there is a lot of fried rice, rice based meals, nutritious dal baht, soups, omelettes etc. Stick to meals where the food is obviously local and sourced from the valley. We stay in reputable teahouses who have a good understanding of food hygiene so our climbers and trekkers rarely get sick. It’s ok and somewhat expected to get a slightly upset tummy as you’ll be eating food that is different to what you are used to. At Base Camp, we have our own chefs who are incredible and take every precaution, in a full catering kitchen. They also cook Western foods, have fresh food including fruit, vegetables and meat resupplied regularly and serve a good variety. CTSS is known to have the best food on the mountain and given where in the world we are, that’s a remarkable feat.
What’s the accommodation at Base Camp like?
We use North Face VE-25 tents. They’re large, spacious (the same size as a 3 man tent) and extremely high quality. Inside you will have a thick, comfortable 15cm sleeping mattress and a pillow. This is placed on top of a ground cloth to keep out the wet and cold.
Will I be sharing a tent?
There will be times on the mountain where you will need to share a tent with another climber to reduce the number of dangerous loads the Sherpa need to carry. It’s also a lot warmer and safer when you can keep an eye on each other.
What about phones & wifi?
We understand it’s important to stay in touch with friends and family and on top of your inbox. There are a number of ways to do this;
We suggest picking up a local Ncell sim card in Kathmandu with a data package. Signal is reliable in Kathmandu & for most of the trek up the Khumbu valley it is strong enough to support both calls and data. Once you get to base camp cell service becomes unreliable, although it can sometimes pick up a low signal (not enough to support data). You can buy a local Ncell sim card in Kathmandu and there is a Ncell store close to our hotel that we are happy to show you. Your phone will need to be unlocked and you will need your passport to get a sim card. You can get recharge cards almost anywhere. This is by far the most affordable way of staying connected and getting data in the Khumbu valley up until base camp. If you’d like to use your own sim card, talk to your provider about activating your international roaming and you should be able to tie into the local networks. At base camp, when the cell service runs out, you can connect to the wifi network and make calls on facetime, Whatsapp, FB, or Skype. It is available for individual purchase which means you only pay for what you use. Please note, this is operated by a third party and we have no control over whether it works or the expense. There are also internet cafes in the bigger towns along the route to base camp to get online and third-party wifi available for purchase in most of the teahouses. Please keep devices like laptops, smartphones and iPads waterproofed in your trekking packs so they don’t break in your duffels. You will be responsible for your own valuables. There will be a satellite phone with the team but we don’t expect to use it until above base camp. It can be made available to team members at $3/minute. If you plan on bringing your own satellite phone with you, you are required to register it with Nepal which costs thousands of dollars. Should you choose not to register it and use it anyway, you do so at your own risk.
How heavy will my pack be?
In general, climbing packs on Ama Dablam are relatively light once you get to the high camps. You will likely be carrying 15lbs – 30lbs (7kg – 12kg) most of the time while climbing and less on the trek into base camp. While climbing you should be prepared to carry your gear for the day and some of your personal gear for the mountain. Sherpa will carry all of the group gear and help with personal gear where possible.
How do I charge my devices?
Given the local expense of electricity, teahouses charge you to repower and recharge your electronic devices en route to base camp. This tends to get more expensive up the valley and a portable battery pack is a good idea. You will need to bring an adapter. This cost is your own expense. Portable solar chargers are a great option for something to leave at Base Camp and charge your devices when you are there. We will also have a solar charging setup available to you for charging devices.
I’d like my own room in hotels & teahouses…
All hotels and teahouses are double or triple occupancy but once we get to base camp you will have your own tent to spread out in. If you want single rooms en route to base camp, we can arrange this at an additional cost. Sometimes teahouses are full during the climbing season and may not have room to accommodate single rooms so please let us know as early as possible for the best chance of us securing a private room. Again this is adventure travel and we ask you to roll with the punches if they are not available.
Do I need a visa? How do I navigate Kathmandu airport arrivals?
Often just getting to Nepal can be the hardest part. Most nationalities can get a visa on arrival by filling out a simple online form just prior to their departure. It is each climber’s responsibility to research visa requirements for their passport, we recommend looking into visa requirements as soon as you sign up to avoid any issues.
Once you’re on the ground it’s time to relax. Upon exiting the plane, walk to the left of the customs area and have your passport, photo, money, and visa form handy. You must pay for your visa first at the desk straight ahead and to the left before getting in the “Visa Upon Entry” line (far left of the large room). Purchase the a 30 day visa for trekkers and Lobuche climbers single entry Nepali visa.
http://www.nepalimmigration.gov.np/page/visa-on-arrival
In the Khumbu, what’s not included?
We cover almost everything in the cost of the trip once we fly into the Khumbu valley so there shouldn’t be too many other expenses that you need to worry about. The biggest expense is tips. The Sherpa tip pool is $400 and we will collect that at the beginning of the climb to disperse amongst the entire team at the end of the climb including cook staff and dining staff. People sometimes tip their individual summit Sherpa a bit more. The other personal expenses people accrue are wifi (through third party operators) additional personal snacks, drinks purchased at tea houses, charging of devices & toilet paper. We suggest you bring a portable charger and pack a few additional rolls of toilet paper for the trek in.
What if we can’t get into Lukla in time because of weather?
It’s good to remember that we are in the Himalaya and weather can be variable so it’s important to be patient. Generally, it’s no more than a day or two delay. If it looks like we’ll be unable to get in on the plane then we’ll look at hiring helicopters to get into a safe spot in the valley to stay on schedule.
What’s the deal with blog updates?
We know family and friends will want to follow your progress so we will be posting regular updates to the Climbing the Seven Summits blog here: https://climbingthesevensummits.com/blog/ We try to update it as often as possible but make sure your loved ones know that ‘no news is good news’. If a few days pass between updates it doesn’t mean that anything is wrong, simply that we are probably busy climbing.
Didn't find an answer to your question? Don't hesitate to ask us.
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6x Reasons to Choose CTSS
Safety
Your safety and success are our priorities in that order. We make conservative decisions, plan redundancies and all our guides have wilderness medical training, safety & rescue plans & access to doctors 24/7 to help keep you safe.
Value for $
We keep our overheads low to pass savings on to you. We are proud to offer the best service for the most competitive price, without skimping on safety or taking shortcuts with logistics, staffing and infrastructure.
Holistic Approach
Our service goes far beyond the mountain. Think of us as your climbing coach, we’ll be there from start to finish to prepare, debrief and plan your progression as a mountaineer, whether your goal is a single summit or the Seven.
Guides & Team
Guides can make or break your climb. We hand pick the most qualified, tenured, tested and personable guides and Sherpa in the world. Owner and mountaineer Mike Hamill personally oversees the management of each expedition.
Our Values
We care about you, our people and the planet and we walk our talk by donating a percentage of every expedition to Tiger of the Snows fund which supports outdoor tourism workers all over the world and following strict Leave No Trace principles amongst other initiatives.
Success
We have an unparalleled summit success rate. How? We do it in a myriad of ways; like a great chef’s secret sauce, we've fine tuned the recipe over decades but most importantly, we believe in you & your ability to achieve your goals and are invested in putting you on top.
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I cannot even put into words how incredible that trip was for me – you truly run everything top notch and it shows in every single part of the trip. Your patience in teaching/coaching in a way that I didn’t feel intimidated by was amazing and so so appreciated. I am in awe of this whole experience
- Julie M, USA

Testimonials
As expected you run a first class show from start to finish… I look forward to the next adventure.Len F, USA
I cannot even put into words how incredible that trip was for me – you truly run everything top notch and it shows in every single part of the trip. Your patience in teaching/coaching in a way that I didn’t feel intimidated by was amazing and so so appreciated. I am in awe of this whole experienceJulie M, USA
An incredible experience from start to finish. I can’t say enough what a difference it makes to have a great guide who cares so much about the whole experience and a great time to make the journey so special. I hope this is the first of many climbs with CTSS for me.Kevin A, USA
Ama Dablam Inquiry Form
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Manaslu Team in Kathmandu
We’re happy to report that the CTSS Manaslu team have all returned safely from the mountain. Over the last few days of September and the start of October weather reports indicated that another summit window was not going to appear, making the teams best option to depart from the mountain and get home safe to return another year. Our climbers landed in Kathmandu a few days ago and yesterday afternoon the last of our logistical staff arrived in the town of Samaguan below Manaslu Basecamp.
CTSS extends a massive “Thank You!” to all our amazing Sherpa team for their quick work pulling down all on-mountain and basecamp infrastructure before conditions deteriorated. Their hard work before, during, and after the formal expedition offered unparalleled support to the climbing team.
Our 2022 climbers were exceptionally strong and all logistics were set to support a summit bid weeks ago. We would have loved nothing more than to put the whole team on the summit, but weather and conditions told us very clearly that a safe climb was no longer possible.
With our own team safe and many already on flights back to see their friends and families our hearts go out to those expeditions still on Manaslu working and descending in tough conditions. With news filtering out reporting more avalanches and accidents please join us in hoping for the safe return of all climbers, guides and Sherpa.
Cheers,
CTSS Team



Holding Pattern on Manaslu
Holding Pattern on Manaslu
The CTSS Manaslu team is all together at Basecamp, CTSS Guides Tendi Sherpa, Tomi Ceppi, Robert Jantzen & Pasang Sherpa have decided to put the team into a holding pattern while snow conditions settle and we watch the weather to see if there is a prudent opening to ascend back onto the upper mountain.
Our upper mountain logistics are set, the team is fully acclimatized, and all systems are go for a summit bid - if, and when, the mountain comes into shape.
If you’ve been following the news around Manaslu you’ve likely seen reports of bad snow conditions and high winds with several expeditions packing up and heading home over the last 3 days, as well as some expeditions choosing to continue their push higher onto the route.
Every good expedition should be equipped to make their own call in times like this, and CTSS assesses it’s not yet time to throw in the towel, but it also not safe to ascend back into terrain on the upper mountains. This call gives our clients every chance for conditions to change and an opportunity for a summit to occur, while maintaining the margin of safety CTSS is known for.
Guide Robert Jantzen explains the current conditions and decision making on our Manaslu expedition;
“It’s important to note, that while we are proud of how CTSS makes tough calls in the mountains, the risk assessment and decision making described below is not to be judged against other teams who have made the call to pull out already, nor is it a critique of teams currently climbing high on the mountains. We make independent decisions based on our own experience, information, team, and risk tolerance, as should all Mountain Guides and Mountain Guide companies.
We’ve got a fantastically strong team of climbers this year, great logistics, and a rock star team of climbing Sherpa who have all put an incredible amount of time and effort into getting ready for a summit bid. With everything primed for a summit bid, why are we still at basecamp? Our job as Guides, when it comes down to brass tacks, is to get every member of the team back home in good health, 10 fingers, 10 toes, and able to climb their next mountain. The process of climbing and summiting is always held in balance, to the all important job of getting back safely.
Guides bring in to a play whole catalogue of experience, techniques, information sources, tricks, tips, and sometimes downright toughness, to lead a team. We live and thrive in “grey areas” where there are often multiple “right” decisions, which balance factors such as avalanche risk, weather conditions, group fitness, mountain traffic, and dozens of other contributing factors. When a mountain is in marginal condition, guiding is a fantastically cerebral job.
This season has been defined by an abnormally large amount of snow falling on the upper mountain. While snow in the mountains is part of the game, storm totals in the amounts we’ve seen, raise high levels of avalanche concern. As a team we have managed to complete our full acclimatization rotations up to Camp 3 without stepping out onto large avalanche slopes during poor conditions, but the route from Camp 3 to Camp 4, and Camp 4 to the Summit both cross known avalanche problem areas.
While avalanche problem areas may sound like a continuous and potentially unacceptable risky location to travel through it’s important to keep in mind that they are a mitigable hazard. Avalanches are actually relatively predictable, a known set of weather patterns cause their likelihood to increase while another known set of weather patterns cause their likelihood to decrease or cease to exist all together. We can’t control these slopes with explosives as a ski area can, but we can choose to cross them only under conditions which reduce, or eliminate the chance of an avalanche occurring while we are there.
Right now the upper mountain of Manaslu has received both large new snow totals and, over the last few days, strong winds. This wind is picking up snow from one side of the mountain and depositing it to slopes on, around, and above our climbing route. Wind driven snow compacts together forming a cohesive slab on the surface, if there is a weak layer of snow under this slab it can be triggered and all slide together. From basecamp we have seen new avalanches on several slopes, including large-scale avalanches which have run across the route and even into the Camp 2 area.
At the moment the presence of continued wind and wind transported snow, along with the pre-existing concern of large storm snow totals up high, causes us to deem climbing above Camp 1 as an unacceptable risk for our team, so we’re resting at basecamp where we can stay healthy and in prime shape.
Compounding this is a new round of forecasted precipitation scheduled to arrive before the current avalanche concerns have a chance to settle out. If this new snow falls on top of existing wind slabs, or other weak layers, the likelihood of an avalanche increases even more.
So why are we still here? Well, a forecast is a forecast and it can change. On 8000m peaks conditions can change quickly, storms can build without being forecasted, and forecasted storms can dissipate before they affect the climbing route. Just as our initial summit window shut with new increased winds, there is a slim chance a new summit window could open toward the end of the season."
While we have assessed that climbing high on Manaslu is currently not within our risk tolerance the team of guides from CTSS will continue to watch the forecast, gather information on conditions high on the mountain, assess, and reassess continuously. If, or when, we see a chance to prudently ascend we are ready to go.
Our climbers have put in a massive investment of time, money, and raw effort to get to this point. We will always remain prepared to support them until the last day of the season. Let’s see what the future brings!





Climbers & Sherpa Safe on Manaslu
An avalanche has just occurred on Manaslu below Camp 4. Our entire CTSS team including climbers and Sherpa are safe and well at Base Camp.
More information will follow, but our focus at this time remains the safety of our team and other climbers, and in aiding the search and rescue efforts currently taking place on the upper mountain.
Our thoughts are hearts are with all of those involved.
CTSS Team
Manaslu Summit Prep
The team is strong and resting well at Base Camp getting ready for their upcoming summit bid.
Today they will do some more training on their oxygen systems and dial in their packs and preparation for the summit bid.
The tentative plan (always fluid to take account of conditions and weather) is to move to Camp 1 on the 26th, Camp 2 on the 27th, Camp 3 on the 28th, Camp 4 on the 29th.
If the weather forecast holds true the team will leave Camp 4 late on the 29th/very early on the 30th for the summit.
Meanwhile Ott & Guide Tomi are moving up to Camp 2 today on their final acclimatization rotation, moving really well. They will sleep there tonight, tag Camp 3 and return to Base to rest and prepare themselves for the summit.
All well on Manaslu,
Cheers
CTSS Team



Manaslu Acclimatization Complete
The team have now successfully finished their acclimatization rotations on Manaslu. They are currently descending from Camp 2 back to Base Camp after touching Camp 3 yesterday and we look forward to seeing them back in The Big House for some well deserved rest and food.
Kevin feeling really strong decided to sleep at Camp 3 yesterday with Guide Pasang and he is moving downhill today soon.
The latest round of precipitation has dropped over a metre of new snow on the upper mountain above Camp 3. Today it is warming up and sunny for the first time in a week.
The fixing team will wait a few days for snow conditions to stabilize before re-fixing the route C3 to C4 and then C4 onto the summit. This works well for our timing as our climbers are fully acclimatized, we can rest until the route is ready.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Second Rotation on Manaslu
The Manaslu team are back climbing in earnest on their final acclimatization rotation, they moved up to Camp 1 yesterday and today will move up to Camp 2 for the night. The following day the plan is to head as far towards Camp 3 as conditions allow. The previous round of precip laid about a meter of fresh snow on the upper mountain.
Following the Camp 3 tag effort they will drop back to Base Camp to rest ahead of the summit push! It's exciting times on Manaslu, as by completing this round of acclimatization the team is ready to wait for conditions to settle and a nice weather window for the summit push!
We are hopeful that the weather is starting to dry out a little and marks a changing trend for the team as we narrow in on the summit push.
All on schedule and the team is doing well and moving strongly.
Cheers
CTSS Team


Rest Days and Rain on Manaslu
After a productive first acclimatization rotation the CTSS Manaslu team is taking some needed rest days as a wet storm system moves over the mountain.
Despite receiving near constant rain the last two days spirits are high with big domes keeping the team dry and the espresso machine churning out liquid happiness throughout the day.
The team will wait out the last of the weather with one more rest day on the 18th, right on schedule with our itinerary. Starting on the 19th the forecast improves and our second rotation begins with a climb back up to the now familiar Camp 1. From Camp 1 the team moves and sleeps one night at Camp 2, takes a day trip up to Camp 3 and returns down to Camp 1 for another night of good sleep. After that it's back to basecamp! Acclimatization will be complete and after a few days rest it's simply a matter of finding the weather window for our summit push!
Stay tuned for more updates as our team moves back up the mountain in the coming days
Cheers,
CTSS Team


