How to Choose the Right Mountaineering Boots
How to Choose the Right Mountaineering Boots
Your boots are your all-important connection to the mountain, but finding the right boot is like navigating a broken up glacier! So what boot is actually best? Here's a guide to help choose the right mountaineering boots.
Mountaineering Boot Basics
What differentiates a mountain boot from a hiking boot? What's the difference between single, double and triple boots?
Mountain boots are designed with crampons in mind. That means they have a super stiff sole and at least a heel welt and possibly a toe welt as well.
As you walk your foot and boot flexes - if your boot flexes too much your crampon can pop off, hence mountain boots being exceptionally stiff. Mountain boots also have added insulation for cold environments.
This added insulation is what differentiates single, double, and triple boots.
Single Vs. Double Vs. Triple Mountaineering Boots
It all comes down to having the right mountaineering boots for the right job.
Each type of boot is designed for a certain set of temperatures and circumstances. Understanding these will help you select the right boot for your next climb and appreciate why you may need multiple pairs of boots for a goal like The Seven Summits or progressing up to 8,000m climbs like Manaslu & Everest.
Single Mountaineering Boots
Single boots are lightweight and may, or may not, have a toe welt, but they will always have a heel welt. These are fantastic boots for low elevation and warmer climbs such as Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker and the Australian Alpine Academy in July and August. However, in the greater ranges they are too light to provide adequate warmth against cold and storms. We find if you are looking at a lifetime of mountaineering they offer limited use.
Double Mountaineering Boots
Double boots are made up of an outer boot shell and removable inner boot, a construction providing additional warmth for colder weather and moderate to high altitudes. One major benefit of a double boot is that the inner liner can be removed and dried in your sleeping bag. This makes them a great choice for longer trips (even on lower elevation, or warmer climbs). You'll find you use a good pair of double boots for most of your climbs around the world. They quickly take the place of a single boot and are far more versatile.
Triple Mountaineering Boots
Made up of a outer insulating gaiter, boot shell, and inner liner, triple boots are ideal for extreme cold (Denali & Vinson) and high altitude climbs (Everest, Manaslu etc) and are critical on those peaks.
Their exceptional warmth will hold frostbite at bay, but make them a poor choice for warmer weather climbs as your feet get too hot and are likely to sweat profusely. Wet feet are going to cause significant discomfort and foot issues during your expedition.
Synthetic or Leather Mountaineering Boots Vs. Plastic Mountaineering Boots
Like all other gear, boots have undergone a rapid evolution over the last 20 years with plastic boots slowly being replaced by synthetic or leather models.
You may still find places recommending plastic double boots and most rental facilities carry this style of climbing boot. These older styles still work well and are extremely durable. However, if you're starting fresh with them and they aren't broken in, they can cause shin-bang and other foot issues due to their extreme rigidity.
If you're purchasing new boots we highly recommend focusing on boots with an outer shell made of synthetics or leather. For personal use their durability is excellent and if treated well and cared for, they will easily last for dozens of major expeditions.
What Brand is Best?
While many climbers have a preferred brand, most mountain boots are made by highly reputable companies like La Sportiva, Scarpa, Millet, and a few others. Quality-wise they're all great and comparable, but differ significantly in fit. We recommend you try on several models from different brands to find a boot that fits your foot well. It doesn't matter how highly rated the boot may be in online reviews; if it doesn't fit your foot, you won't be happy!
Take the time to find a boot in the right class (single, double, or triple) that both fits your expedition goal and your foot. You may find one brand fits best in doubles, but their triple doesn't fit well at all. Experiment and try on several pairs and sizes.
How to Size Your Boots
A good general rule of thumb is to aim for between 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) and 3/4 inch (2 cm) of room between your toe and the end of the boot. Your foot shouldn't feel pinched side to side in any location and when laced you shouldn't have more than just a little heel lift when you walk. Keep in mind - your foot bends even when your boot doesn't, so no matter how good the fit, you can always expect some heel rise as you walk.
Since boots have a reinforced toe, it can be tough to figure out how much room is left in the boot. We recommend sliding your foot all the way forward with the boot unlaced. With your toes touching the front of the boot, slide your hand all the way down the back of your leg, into the the boot and down between your heel and the heel cup of the boot. You should be able to get a finger behind your heel and measure the gap.
There are some tips on how to choose the right mountaineering boots. We hope this guide helps you gear up for your next expedition! For more climbing resources, visit our website.
How to Size an Ice Axe
How to Size An Ice Axe
Learning how to size an ice axe is crucial to technical mountaineering. If you dig around the Internet looking for ice axe advice an you'll probably find something like:
"When holding the axe by your side the spike should touch your ankle."
Basically, if you're taller - your ice axe should be longer, right?
Well, not quite.
What used to be common advice is now outdated. For example, one of our guides is 6'1" (185cm) and their longest ice axe is 60 cm. His most frequently used ice axe is 56cm, and he even uses a 45cm ice axe for ski objectives. According to the old advice, all of his ice axes are at least 10cm too short!
Why keep an ice axe short?
- On steep terrain, a longer ice axe puts the climber's hand up by their shoulder. This isn't a strong position to arrest from, is tiring, and can leave you off balance in terrain where balance = safety.
- Longer axes tempt you to use them as a "3rd leg" like a trekking pole. This may seem advantageous until you encounter snow conditions with a hard crust, but soft snow underneath. In those conditions you can place your axe fine, but as soon as it's weighted for balance the spike will punch through the snow crust and slide in suddenly. Again, not ideal - it's much better to be in balance over your feet, holding your axe above the snow in a proper position.
- The right size axe is the one you're used to. When using your axe as a self arrest tool the most important factor is your familiarity, you should be able to react into arrest position without thinking. So whatever axe length you train with is the right one for you!
Two great ice axes on the market right now are the Petzl Sum'tec and Black Diamond Venom, with an adze rather than a hammer for general mountaineering. Both are designed to work well in low angle glacial terrain, but also perform on steep snow and ice up to about 75 degrees - much more versatile than a standard ice axe.
Whatever axe you choose, make sure to practice your arrest!
Need to practice your mountaineering skills? Check out our expedition at the Australian Alpine Academy.
...Cyclone Yaas & A Close to our Everest Season...
27th May
Cyclone Yaas has hit Everest, with severe winds and snow. Conditions are due to extend for the next 24 - 48hours as the Cyclone passes to the South & East. The climbing season comes to an official close on the 31st May.
All CTSS climbers and Sherpa are now safely off the mountain.
It brings a turbulent end to a tough season.
Compounded by this weather event, the season completion in just a few short days and the widespread impacts of Covid across the mountain, we made a safety decision to cancel the last summit wave just hours before their bid was due to begin.
Despite healthy and prepared climbers, a number of CTSS Sherpa were unwittingly exposed to Covid-19 at Camp 2 thus compromising the entire team. They were identified as close contacts and isolated with a handful subsequently testing positive, and therefore no longer able to support our climbers.
CTSS has strict margins of safety and redundancy that we operate within. Without a full Sherpa team accompanying our climbers and stationed at the South Col to aid in rescue situations etc, the risk became unacceptable. Further, the effects of becoming symptomatic with covid at extreme altitude can be catastrophic.
As we bring the 2021 season to a close, we are grateful to have had 2x successful summit waves with 25x Everest Summits & 7x Lhotse summits.
Today we bid farewell to Damian, Akash & April who will descend to Lukla over 3 days and the Western Guided Team who will trek down the valley in just 2 days.
...Record Breaking Double Header Summit...
A hearty congratulations to Francesco Tiribelli & Ang Dawa Sherpa who are currently standing on the summit of Lhotse with Francesco breaking a new record as the 1st Italian ever to achieve the double header. Everest yesterday, Lhotse today!!
All of our climbers from yesterday's summit wave are descending to EBC today or tomorrow.
Cheers
CTSS Team
...Lhotse & Everest Summits...
We have the excitement of some summits of both Everest & Lhotse in clear but challenging, windy conditions.
Congratulations to Everest Summiteers
Akash Negi
Mario Celinic
Francesco Tribelli
Tendi Sherpa (Big Tendi)
Ang Dawa Sherpa
Nima Tseri (Phortse)
Sonam Phinjo (Pang)
& Congratulations to our Lhotse Team - 100% on top
with Wolf Riehle
& Francisco Martin
Anup Gurung
Suman Gurung
Lhakpa Tseri (Thame)
They will also now make their way down to High Camp and back to Camp 2.
The rest of the team decided to hold at the Col, making a conservative decision. They are likely to retreat back to Camp 2 today. They include:
Tendi & Asma
Pasang & Remy
Hemanshu
Jessica Han
Vanessa
Malu
Mario F (Ecuador)
Clayton
Guides Tomi & Ossy
Everyone safe & well.
Cheers
CTSS Team
...CTSS Summit Teams in Position...
The team have successfully reached the South Col & High camp on Lhotse respectively.
Somewhat windy conditions today but they are now all settled in their tents getting some rest ahead of the summit bid.
At the South Col we have:
- Akash
- Remy
- Francesco
- Both Marios - Mario (Croatia) & Mario (Ecuador)
- Clayton
- Jessica Han
- Vanessa
- Malu
- Asma
- Hemanshu
- Guides Ossy & Tomi, Tendi and our amazing Sherpa Team.
If you want to get an idea of the climbing the team will be doing and the route - check out our summit route breakdown:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMQKSvMGwGg&list=PLMz_kRmPTvqUjpcgqswdV2RbxOYWU38z6
At Lhotse High Camp with their Guides:
- Francisco
- Wolf
Everyone else safely at Base Camp awaiting the next window.
They will spend the next few hours resting on oxygen and assessing conditions before heading out on their summit bids.
It's not uncommon to not hear much news during this time and worth keeping in mind that no news is good news, it just means the climbers are keeping focused on the goal at hand, getting their heads down and climbing hard.
Good luck team!
...Summit Teams at C3...
Our C2 team moved up the Lhotse face to C3 today, joining the climbers who have been at C3 for the last few nights. Climbing conditions on the Lhotse Face were excellent with new snow making for easy travel. Easy is a relative term at over 7000 meters!
Climbers at C3 now include our Lhotse team Wolfe and Francisco, Everest climbers Remy, Francesco, Mario (Croatia), Akash, Jessica H, Hemanshu, Clayton, Asma, Malu, Mario (Ecuador), and Venessa, guides Ossy and Tomi, and our amazing Sherpa team.
Moving to the South Col (camp 4) is tomorrow's goal, with this team's first summit window in just two days time.
Our Western Guided Team plus Damien and one other climber are at basecamp in preparation for our third summit wave.
Cheers,
CTSS Team
... Everest and Lhotse teams at C2, C3...
Our second round of summit climbers are staged at C2 and C3 today looking towards a summit push in the next few days. Weather has been overcast and a bit of wind, with conditions forecasted to further improve tomorrow as they move up.
At C3 is our Lhotse Team Wolfe and Francisco as well as Everest climbers Francesco and Remy with their private guides, and Mario C and Akash with guide Big Tendi.
At C2 are Everest climbers Jessica H, Jessica E. H, HP, Clayton W, Tomi, Asma, Malu, Ossy, Vanessa, Mario F, and Little Tendi.
Our Western Guided team and Damian are at Everest Basecamp getting ready for their summit bid.
Cheers,
CTSS Team
... Continuing Forward, Upward...
After waiting out bad weather at camp 2 our summit teams are on the move again.
Everest climbers Mario C, Akash N, Remy K, and Francesco with guides Big Tendi, Pasang Teni, and Ang Dawa as well as Lhotse climbers Wolf R and Francisco M with guides Anup Gurung and Saman Gurang all moved up to C3 today. They made excellent time and the weather is quite reasonable there- light wind and good visibility.
Everest climbers Jessica H, Jessica E. H, Hemanshu P, and Clayton W, Asma, Maria M, Vanessa E, and Mario F along with guides Tomas Ceppi and Oswaldo Freire are taking a rest day at Camp 2 for one more night. They will head to Camp 3 tomorrow.
Cheers,
CTSS Team
...In Tribute to Pemba Tashi Sherpa...
It is with the deepest regret and profound sorrow that we inform you of the passing of Pemba Tashi Sherpa (28) from Siluchung Gaupalika, Ward No-5, Shankhuwasabha District, on 18th of May 2021.
Pemba Tashi Sherpa fell into a crevasse between Camp 1 & 2 on Everest. Despite the best efforts of the rescue team, who were on site shortly after the incident and were able to raise him from the crevasse, he was unable to be saved.
Over the past day, CTSS have been working closely with his family, including his 2 brothers who are here on Everest with us. We were able to bring him off the mountain yesterday and he has been taken to his family by helicopter today.
He is survived by his wife Lhakpa Kippa Sherpa, his young daughters Nyima Yangi (5) Lhakpa Khandu (2) and his son, Pasang Dawa (3).
Pemba Tashi was an extremely experienced mountaineer and a valued member of our team with 4x Everest summits, including one just last week on May 12th.
Beyond the insurance in place, CTSS will also be contributing to the children's on-going education in addition to launching a special initiative through our Not-For-Profit Tiger of the Snows Fund for any members of our broader community who wish to rally further support for his family for the years to come.
If you would also like to be part of that support we invite you to do so via Tiger of the Snows Fund where 100% of the monies raised will be invested into an education fund for Pemba Tashi's children.
We would also like to recognise the great work of The Juniper Fund who have also committed to assist the family by covering living costs for the next 5 years as they move through this unimaginably difficult time.
We are profoundly saddened by the loss of this strong, vibrant, extremely competent, gregarious and much loved member of our CTSS Family.
Our condolences and hearts are with his wife, children family, friends and climbing compatriots.
