Mt Baker Advice from Mike Hamill

MT BAKER  |  North America


Mt Baker Advice from Mike Hamill

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A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' Mt. Baker Expedition from Mike Hamill

Mt. Baker is one of the gems of U.S. Mountaineering. From the hike in through classic PNW forests, to beautiful views from camp, to a solid and engaging climb up the Easton Glacier, Baker provides a well rounded and memorable trip packed into just a few days.

It is a perfect place for new climbers to start and experienced climbers to refresh skills and expand their abilities. From camp we are able to quickly access a variety of terrain choices to maximize training with minimal wasted travel time.

Even though Baker doesn’t require a ton of technical skill to climb, you will need excellent physical fitness is going to help you enjoy and get the most out of the trip. I find most climbers underestimate the effort of summit day, wIth 5000 feet of elevation gain from camp to the summit, Baker asks a lot from your body. The best advice I have is to train hard, train right, and start training at least 3 months before your climb.

To help you on your Mt. Baker Journey here are a few pieces of wisdom I’ve given clients over the years (and use myself!) that have helped them be successful. I hope these tips will help you too!

Best Wishes,
Mike

  • Follow the packing list carefully and fully, but if you are buying new gear spend the extra money for a lightweight model of whatever item you’re purchasing. Over time this will let you replace any old heavy gear with lighter items and reduce your pack weight on every trip.

  • Pay close attention to the simple stuff your guide is teaching on day 1 like scuff step, rest step and pacing. These basic principles can cut your climbing effort almost in half, even if you are an experienced hiker you will benefit from these techniques.

  • Dial in your packing systems, especially for your small items like sunglasses, snacks, toiletries, sunscreen etc. Breaks will be short on the mountain, maximum 15 minutes, finding your small essentials quickly every break by packing them in the same spot every time will make your whole climb less stressful. Systems are important!

  • Don’t underestimate the cold on summit day. Even in the height of summer with a perfect forecast the upper mountain of Baker can be cold and breezy at 4 a.m. Bring winter weight gloves and a warm parka, don’t skimp on these critical layers thinking it’s just a summer climb.

  • When you get tired, focus on your feet. If there is one thing that makes travel in the mountains safer and easier, it’s good footwork. The more tired you are the more you should be focusing on perfect rest step technique and staying in balance.


Mt Baker Training & Prerequisites

MT BAKER  |  North America


Mt Baker Training & Prerequisites

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Experience Level

Mt. Baker is a great trip for everyone in that there are no technical prerequisites – you don’t need any prior technical mountaineering or rock climbing experience. We’ll cover off all the skills in our comprehensive skills clinics as part of your climb. (Whether you are learning these for the first time or as a refresher or just good practice as an advanced climber, these are foundational skills you will use religiously throughout your entire climbing career) From a technical standpoint, it is an ideal first alpine climb.
That said, there is a prerequisite that you are physically very fit and healthy. Baker shouldn’t be dismissed ‘as easy’ just because it is suitable for beginners. Like any large glaciated climb, it should not be underestimated.

Physical Training

You need to be very physically fit and able to dedicate time to ‘climbing specific training’ in the lead up to your expedition. Being in top shape will also ensure you enjoy your climb, feel good throughout and get the most out of the experience.
It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. Instead you need to emulate long physical days (8hrs +) in the mountains

  • We recommend that you:
    Start specific mountaineering training at least 3 months in advance
  • Train at least 4-5 days a week for an hour or more
  • Focus on high volume but low intensity training
  • A good goal is to be able to comfortably climb 1,500 vertical ft per hour with a 40lb pack
  • Schedule a few weekends where you can do two or more full days back to back. Multi day hikes carrying a pack, with good elevation gains and descents are ideal.

Mindset

Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak.

You should be prepared:

  • To be away from home/work for the duration of your climb, cell reception is spotty on Mt. Baker.
  • Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
  • Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
  • Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
  • Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow team mates
  • Be humble, respectful and considerate even under pressure

Climbing Mount Baker

How heavy are the packs? How should I train? Get ready for your expedition by checking out this webinar clip from CTSS Guide Kat Schaumberg. If you’re looking for the full webinar, check out our YouTube Channel.


How to Choose The Right Baker Expedition

MT BAKER  |  North America


How to Choose The Right Baker Expedition

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Researching and choosing the right expedition company to support you and help guide you through all logistics, as well as be there for you on the mountain is important. You want to do your homework so you feel 100% confident in your choice and can focus on the climb.
We encourage you to look closely at both the big picture and the small details. Look at a company’s priority on safety, the quality and experience of their guides, their reputation, and their level of ‘care factor’.

Below are two clips from our webinar on Mount Baker that might help you select an expedition that suits your needs and objectives. To watch the full webinar, head to our YouTube Channel.


Intro to Mountaineering Courses on Mount Baker

Four Mountaineering Skills All Climbers Need


Safety & Success

Your safety and success are the top priorities, in that order.
A climbing company should invest heavily and plan extensively for your safety.
Baker is a very approachable mountain, but that does not mean it’s free from hazard. Large glaciers, sudden storms blowing up the Strait of Juan de Fuca or down the Fraser river valley, and possible white-out conditions any time of year are all factors your Guides need to be conscious of and familiar with.
At CTSS we ensure the safety of our climbers by employing Guides with years of experience in the Pacific Northwest and around the world. We design our itineraries to give our Guides the ability to take advantage of weather windows and give you the best chance of success by climbing when it’s safe to climb.


Leadership

Look for Guides who are seasoned experts with a strategy that is patient, conservative and well planned to give you the best opportunity for success. They should be adept at managing the team, able to lean on extensive experience and “thread the needle” when it comes to picking the best summit window.
Our mountaineering guides and staff are second to none, and our teams ALWAYS include a lead guide with extensive experience on Mt. Baker. They know the area well and understand how to make your climb of Mt. Baker as smooth, and successful as possible.


Skills Clinic & Training

Mt. Baker is a fantastic opportunity to learn (or concrete) key mountaineering skills you will use throughout your entire climbing career.
It is important that your operator dedicates time in your itinerary to a ‘snow school’ or climbing clinic.

Feel free to ask what skills they cover off, how they teach them and how much time they dedicate to that training. Some of the most important skills are often overlooked, like the rest step, pressure breathing and pacing amongst the more hands on skills like self arrest, efficient cramponing, and roped glacier travel.
CTSS dedicates a significant portion of our schedule for training on the mountain. Your guide will also help you implement and continue to coach you in these skills throughout your climb.

In our 5-Day Alpine Academy your training will form the backbone of our schedule every day. We start with the fundamentals of efficient movement in the mountains and build your skills up to more advanced techniques such as snow anchors, crevasse rescue, and running belays.


Values & Philosophy

Does an operator have strong values?
This is sometimes a little harder to identify as it’s more a feeling than a sales pitch, but you should get a feel for a company through their little interactions, their care factor, their attention to detail, their corporate social responsibility, their responses to you.
Mountaineering can be high risk and stressful so pick an operator who has strong core values and a team mentality that aligns with yours so that when things get challenging you can rely on open lines of communication, knowing they will do what they can to support you.
It is this team cohesiveness that flows through to each individual climber and helps them stand on top.


Mt Baker Travel Guide

MT BAKER  |  North America


Mt Baker Travel Guide

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Meeting Location:

Our team will meet at 8:00 a.m. on the morning of Day 1 unless otherwise arranged in the town of Sedro-Wolley, Washington. Please plan to arrive in Sedro-Woolley at least 10 minutes prior to 8:00 so you have time to use the restroom and arrange gear for the gear check. We aim to move efficiently through the gear check and be driving towards the trailhead by 9:30 so a prompt and prepared arrival is important.


Nearby Airports (Travel time depends on traffic around Seattle)

  • SeaTac International, SeaTac WA – About 1.5 – 2 hours travel time from Sedro Woolley. Most frequent arrival point for anyone flying in for a Baker climb
  • Paine Field Airport, Everett Wa – About 1 hour travel time to Sedro Woolley
  • Bellingham International Airport – About 45 minutes travel time to Sedro Woolley
  • Vancouver International, Vancouver BC, Canada – About 1.5 hours travel time to Sedro Woolley. Note: This traveling from this airport requires a border crossing into the U.S., please build additional time for your border crossing.

Accommodations

While Sedro Woolley has a few choices for hotels, your best bet for good prices is in Burlington, just 20 minutes west of Sedro Woolley. There are several chain hotels throughout Burlington as well as several AirBnB/VRBO options in the area. Check travel times if you are renting an AirBnB/VRBO, the area around Sedro Woolley is rural and mountainous, make sure there is an easy way to drive from your accommodations to our meeting point.

Car Rentals

Mt. Baker is a car-dependent trip. You will need to arrange your transportation to and from Sedro-Woolley on your own. If you are being dropped off in Sedro Woolley please contact CTSS so we can ensure there is space in the carpool to transport you and your gear to the trailhead.

There are few local car rental options available in Sedro Woolley. We recommend renting a car at your arrival airport, or in one of the major nearby metropolitan areas like Seattle, Everett, or Bellingham.

Gear Storage

CTSS does not provide secure storage while we are on Mt. Baker. Most frequently extra gear is left in the trunk of cars left in Sedro Woolley or at the trailhead. Break-ins are rare, but not unheard of, so be sure all stored gear is out of sight and cannot be reached by breaking a car window.

If you are traveling from outside the U.S. we recommend checking with your hotels for storage options while you are in the mountains.

Cell Phone Coverage

The US has generally good cell phone coverage, though coverage in mountainous or rural areas can be spotty. Primary providers in the US include Verizon, At&t, and T-mobile, check with your provider for information on international calling plans.

Mt. Baker has some areas with cell phone coverage, especially if Verizon is your provider. However we recommend not to expect quality or reliable service while on the expedition

International Arrivals & Visas

Foreign nationals entering the US typically must present their passport and visa upon arrival to their US port of entry. Check the U.S. State department website as well as your government’s travel website for visa details. US visas can be hard to receive depending on your country of origin, we recommend starting your application as early as possible to avoid unfortunate delays.


...Summit Season Upon Us...

With the lines fixed to the summit, the summit season begins in earnest and we've already got some of the broader team out the door.

  • This morning our IFMGA Sherpa Guided Team climbers, April, Ryan, David with Guide Tenji & Private IFMGA climbers and personal sherpa climbers, Michael P, Michael N, Rob, Steve started uphill making excellent time through the icefall and into the CWM and are already at Camp 2. Tomorrow they will push up to Camp 3. It's looking like a May 12th summit bid for them.
  • Guide Tomi & Clayton came back to Base Camp yesterday after a very strong and successful rotation, they will now rest and recover.
  • Guide Ossy, Malu, Vanessa & Mario C just rolled back into Base Camp a few hours ago and are doing great, they too are ready for some good food and rest and to ready themselves for the next and final push.
  • Guide Big Tendi, Damian & Mario F are currently at Camp 2, finalising their second rotation by heading up to tag C3 tomorrow, after which they will sleep one more night at Camp 2 before dropping right back down to Base to rest and recover. 
  • The Western Guided Team are part way through their recovery period and are already ready and raring to go.

Plenty of buzz at Base Camp and on the hill with a healthy, happy and strong team who are looking forward to standing on top!

Here's a few pics from Guide Tomi of the past few days...

Cheers
CTSS Team

Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Tomi Ceppi
Photo Ossy Freire
Photo Tomi Ceppi

...Safely Back to Base...

Our Western Guided Team & Speed Ascent Climbers Akash & Francesco are safely back to Base Camp this morning after a solid, successful rotation. With a bit of rest, they are now ready for the summit bid to begin in earnest!

Guide Big Tendi and Mario, Francisco are at Camp 2 and are all well, they'll aim to tag Camp 3 tomorrow.

Guides Tomi & Ossy with Clayton, Malu & Vanessa all reached Camp 3 today in good time and are already back at Camp 2 resting. They'll drop back down to Base tomorrow.

Great job team! Here's a few pics from Guide Casey and Derek on the Western Guided Team.

Cheers
CTSS Team

 

 

Moving through the icefall in the early hours - Photo Casey Grom
Camp 1 - Photo Casey Grom
Camp 2 - Photo Derek Wood

...Quickly to Camp 3...

The Western Guided Team & Our Speed Ascent climbers Francisco & Akash tagged Camp 3 today in an excellent time of 4hours.

They're just rolling safely into Camp 2 where they'll spend tonight and drop back to Base in coming days fully prepared for their summit bid after a well deserved rest.

Big Tendi is at Camp 1 with Mario C & Francesco. They had a good night last night and slept well, and have made an acclimatisation foray toward Camp 2.  They'll spend another night at Camp 1 before moving up tomorrow.

Guides Tomi & Ossy with Malu & Vanessa are at Camp 2 and will climb to tag Camp 3 tomorrow.

Climbing strong and moving toward that very real goal of the summit!

Cheers
CTSS Team

PS You can check out what climbing the Lhotse Face is like here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohxDKL2RNuk&list=PLMz_kRmPTvqWaiXsJ-OVFw-ViMzHAzyjW&index=4

Climbing the Lhotse Face

 

Cheers
CTSS Team

 


...Snow Up High...

A bit of snow up high on the mountain, visibility cleared a bit this morning however which was nice.

Our Western Guided Team are staying a rest day at Camp 2 today to let the snow settle. They'll make their foray up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 tomorrow before returning to Base Camp which will make their rotation a day longer. Casey has the team on camp chores today including rebuilding the toilet blocks to keep bodies moving.

Our climbers at Camp 1 will move to Camp 2 today to also continue their final long rotation.

The rest of the team, so our Sherpa Guided and our Private Climbers are all down low resting their bodies ahead of the summit bid.

Cheers
CTSS Team

PS Remember we have some route videos over on our Youtube which will help you picture the type of climbing and where the teams are at. Check it out HERE

Lhotse sunset
Through the Western CWM

...Second Rotations on Schedule...

Our Western Guided Team are doing great, after a good night at Camp 2. They took a hike this morning to the Base of Lhotse Face along with Speed Ascent Climber Akash and Guide Suman. Plan is to rest this afternoon and head up early tomorrow to tag Camp 3 before it gets too hot.

Meanwhile Clayton & Guide Tomi have arrived at Camp 2 and Guide Ossy, Vanessa, Malu & Mario are comfy at Camp 1 and may move up to Camp 2 tomorrow if they are feeling ready.

It's currently snowing up high at the moment.

Following these last longer rotations the entire CTSS Team will be well positioned to begin their summit bids.

Cheers
CTSS Team

Everest Camp 1

 

CTSS Camp 1 Everest
Camp 2 Everest

...Rotations & Rest...

The Western Guided Team are safely into Camp 1 in just 6hrs which is great time. They are resting and will spend the night there, with a planned move to Camp 2 at 6am tomorrow morning.

Our Speed Ascent Climbers Akash & Francisco are also at Camp 1 and will move to C2 tomorrow if they sleep well at Camp 1 tonight.

Guides Tomi & Ossy will leave Base Camp at 3am with Clayton, Vanessa, Malu & Mario to start their long rotation, They plan to sleep 2 nights at Camp 1, 4 nights at Camp 2, touch 7000m and descend.

A warm welcome back to Base for our Sherpa Guided & IFMGA Sherpa Guided Team Climbers who are now fully acclimated and will now rest ahead of their summit bid.

Our incredible CTSS Sherpa Team are now preparing to carry supplies and oxygen to the South Col and set up Camp both at the Col & Camp 3 ready for summit bids!

Cheers
CTSS Team

Private Guide Tendi Sherpa in the Western CWM
Camp 2 Everest
Back to Base Camp