Meet Phunjo Lama: Everest Speed Record Holder

Meet Phunjo Lama: Everest Speed Record Holder

Our Everest 2024 season was a massive success. Over the course of six weeks, 59 climbers and guides stood on the summit of the world’s tallest peak. Each summit was a testament to determination, grit, and strength, and we commend each and every climber and guide for their hard work and tenacity on the mountain. 

One summitter may have caught your attention this year—she certainly caught ours—and we were lucky enough to have her join our climbing team. Phunjo Lama is a mountaineer, guide, and mother of two who was born and raised in Nepal, but just like many of us, she didn’t grow up climbing. Her younger years were spent in her village with her grandfather, herding yaks until 2015, when she stepped into the mountaineering world. In 2018, Phunjo reached an all-time high when she broke the women’s speed record from Everest Base Camp to the summit (time: 39 hours and six minutes), but like many great things, that record was surpassed in 2021 by an equally talented climber, Ada Tsang Yin-hung from Hong Kong, China (time: 25 hours and 50 minutes). 

Fast-forward to 2024, and Phunjo is back in the Khumbu Valley with one thing on her mind—a second opportunity to test and push her boundaries in a place she knows and loves. On May 22nd, 2024, Phunjo left CTSS’ Everest Base Camp at 3:52pm and by 6:23am the following day, Phunjo was standing proudly on the summit of Mount Everest in a record time of just 14 hours and 31 minutes. 

We sat down with Phunjo to chat more about her record, her daughters, and what’s in store for the future. A little sneak peek—Phunjo will be guiding with CTSS in 2025, and we are honored to have her!

What prompted you to attempt this FKT in 2018, and how did it feel when you broke the record?

 In 2018, I wasn’t aiming to set a record. I felt a burst of energy and wanted to challenge myself. I was guiding my Australian friend, Samantha McMahon, who encouraged me to go for it. She played a big role in my mountaineering journey. I didn’t think it was a world record at the time, but Guinness World Records recognized it two years later. I was happy but not fully satisfied with my time due to technical problems that prevented me from climbing in my desired time.

What prompted you to attempt this FKT in 2018, and how did it feel when you broke the record?

I was very happy when my record was broken because I knew I had done good work, and that’s why someone broke it. Why reclaim it? In 2018, I was planning to summit in 20 hours, but couldn’t due to team technical issues. But this time, I got a wonderful team from CTSS, who helped me so much, and I wanted to truly break my boundaries and finally do it in a time that would satisfy me.

“I didn’t do it to set records; I just simply did it to challenge and test my limits.” – Phunjo Llama

You were born and raised in Nepal, but when did you officially start “mountaineering”?

Yes, I was born and raised in Nepal in the mountain region with yaks, but I wasn’t from a mountaineering climbing community; I was a yak herder. But to do good things in life, it doesn’t matter what community you come from! I officially started mountaineering in 2015.

What advice would you give young climbers just starting their journey?

To the young people, my suggestion is that the generation we are living in right now is an artificial generation. Even the food we eat isn’t natural. Mountains are the gifts that nature has given us, and we must balance the use of artificial and natural things in our lives. We all should connect with nature.

You’re achieving incredible feats. How does your success in the mountains impact young women?

 A journalist from Vogue magazine mentioned in her blog that her little sister was asking who I was, and when the journalist told her little sister that I was the fastest woman to climb Everest in 14 hours and 31 minutes, the little sister was surprised and questioned, “Really? Can women climb that fast?” And then she replied that women could do anything if they set their mind to. I’m so glad and happy that my achievements are being spread as a message to the world that it doesn’t matter if you’re a woman or a man. Anyone can do good things in life if you set your mind to do so.

You’re joining our guiding team in 2025 on Mount Everest and taking clients for the 2026 Himalayan Spring season (note: Phunjo is already booked for 2025). For those interested in climbing with you, what do you expect from your clients, and what advice would you like to give your future clients?

I would expect my clients to be not only physically strong but also mentally strong, with the ability to focus sharply on the task at hand. I hope those who climb with me respect the Mother Goddess and understand the power she holds to heal a person spiritually. I would advise all climbers to have a balance between mental and physical strength.


Once again Phunjo, congratulations from all of us at Climbing the Seven Summits. We are incredibly proud of your success on Everest and beyond. Thank you for continuing to show us that women, especially Nepali women, belong in the mountains and inspiring our daughters, sisters, nieces, and young women across the world. 

For those of you eyeing a speed ascent or something similar, Phunjo is the perfect guide to ensure you get to and from the summit safely and in record time.  If you’re interested in climbing the Phunjo in 2026, your first step will be to complete our Everest Screening Questionnaire. You can also learn more by visiting our website.


Success on Mount Baker

Our two teams on the Mount Baker were busy today!

First up, our private climb guided by CTSS guides Willie and Victoria summited Mount Baker early this morning. A massive congratulations goes out to:

  • Becky N
  • Jeff F
  • Meghan T
  • Sophia C
  • Nico S
  • Noah S.
  • Guide Willie W.
  • Gudie Victoria G.

Summit success for our private team. (Photo Credit: Willie W.)

Our 5-Day Mount Baker Alpine Academy led by CTSS Guides Kat and Dani has been in a skills frenzy and today they put those new skills into practice. Climbing just behind Willie and Victoria’s team, this team made it to 8,300 feet before turning back to base camp. The entire team is thrilled with the new skills they are learning and all of us are super proud of their budding skills! Photo Credit: Kat S.


2x Teams on Mount Baker

It's been busy in the Cascades for CTSS this season!  We have two teams on Mount Baker with a third team heading up tomorrow. Here are the updates from the field.

The first team, led by CTSS guides Kat and Dani, are on a 5-day Alpine Academy. They arrived at base camp just below Squak Glacier (5,560 feet) on Friday evening. Guide Kat shared that views from camp are beautiful and the hike up with smooth but a bit more strenuous than normal due to icy snow on top of already slippery heather meadows. The team took this time to work in a little extra footwork practice with heavy packs to boot! Photos below from snow school on the glacier near camp courtesy of Kat S.

Our second team on Mount Baker, led by CTSS guides Willie and Victoria, are on a private expedition designed to prepare this group of climbers for an independent ascent up Mount Rainier later this week. With the help of CTSS, we've designed a custom program for this group of friends to review their gear, systems, and logistics planning for their upcoming climb. The team arrived at camp on Saturday evening and spend Sunday training on the glacier. Photo below of the team courtesy of Willie W.


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Vinson Massif: Your Top Five Questions Answered

Vinson Massif: Your Top Five Questions Answered

It’s time to meet the last frontier—Antarctica’s Vinson Massif. With no permanent residents, this ice-covered continent was once virtually inaccessible. But thanks to a blue ice runway and a number of seasonal research, mountaineering, and adventure camps, climbing Vinson Massif is now within reach for anyone ready for a truly wild adventure and a once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

Nestled deep in the heart of the mighty Ellsworth Mountains, where 24 hours of sunlight, harsh winds, and blistering cold dominate the polar desert landscape, Vinson Massif has been luring climbers and adventure seekers for decades. To enable safe and successful climbs in the heart of Antarctica, Climbing the Seven Summits outfits our teams with the best logistics and the most capable, qualified, and seasoned guides in the world. To learn more about our upcoming expeditions, head to our website

To help potential climbers better understand what it means to tackle Vinson Massif, we asked Mike Hamill, owner of CTSS and author of Climbing the Seven Summits, and the talented team at CTSS to answer a few of the most common questions we field about Vinson Massif.

What should I expect when flying from Punta Arenas, Chile, to Antarctica?

To reach Vinson Base Camp, you will take two flights and need a healthy dose of patience and flexibility as flight departure times are not up to us, but up to the weather which needs to be perfect in order to land on the ice. 

Your first flight departs from Punta Arenas, Chile, where the team completes a gear check and attends a required orientation for activities in Antarctica. Once checked through the preflight process, you pack your bags and stay ready to go at the drop of a hat. As soon as we get word that the weather is clear and the flight is running, we board our flight, sometimes within the hour, wearing our Antarctic cold-weather gear.

Flying over Antarctica and landing on the blue ice runway at Union Glacier Camp is an adventure in its own right. But once you step off the plane, your adventure continues in an other-worldly landscape—one of ice, snow, endless sun, and very few people. After your team arrives at Union Glacier Camp, the whole flight process starts again. You pack your bags, stay ready to go at the drop of a hat, and once we get word, it’s off to Vinson Base Camp via a Twin Otter plane.


How do the weather and climate impact this expedition? 

Weather and climate play a significant role not only in our flight schedule to and from Antarctica but also in the climbing on Vinson Massif.
Here are three major considerations and guide tips to help manage:

Extreme cold. You should expect and be prepared for very cold temperatures down to -40°F (-40°C) and the possibility of fierce Antarctic storms. This means it is paramount to have the appropriate clothing and gear. We provide all climbers with a detailed Gear List that includes recommended products tried and tested by our own team. 

Guide Tip: Be very diligent about looking after yourself. Dress appropriately, leave no exposed skin, make sure to manage your layering to not overheat or sweat too much, have your systems dialed and organized, and maintain excellent communication with your guide.

Low barometric pressure. Due to the low barometric pressure at this latitude, you can expect to feel the effects of altitude more than you would on other climbs or expeditions you have done. The equivalent air altitude alone is not a good predictor of how you might feel. Vinson feels higher than it is!

Guide Tip: We employ a conservative schedule to give your body more time to acclimatize and account for this decreased oxygen availability that, when matched with the severe cold and wind, can exacerbate altitude sickness.

24-hour daylight. We will enjoy 24-hour sunlight while in Antarctica, with the sun merely dipping toward the horizon and circling the sky. Direct sunlight and warmth will dictate all of our movement and activities while in Antarctica. Our climbing and summit bid will be timed to give us the best climbing conditions. Rest assured, you will get plenty of time to eat and sleep, and your body will quickly adjust to the unique timetable we create together to suit our goals.

Guide Tip: While we will have a daily itinerary and goal, it is best to suspend the notion of when things “should” happen. For instance, at some camps, you will have to wait until the sun hits your tent and it warms up a bit before it is safe to depart, which might mean getting up at 11am and departing around noon. This also impacts when and how we rest and eat our meals. Understanding and embracing the fluidity will, in turn, make your experience more enjoyable.


What is the setup like at CTSS’s Vinson Base Camp? 

CTSS’s Vinson Base Camp is situated at 6,900 feet (2,100 meters) on the Branscomb Glacier. Upon arrival, you are likely to only spend two nights at Vinson Base Camp before heading to Low Camp. Once your team moves to Low Camp, you won’t see Vinson Base Camp again until after your summit bid. Usually, it takes only a day to descend from the summit back to Vinson Base Camp, where you’ll celebrate with a hearty meal and a toast to your team!

Our setup at Vinson Base Camp is one of the best on the mountain. We’ve invested a lot of resources and time to ensure all of our climbers are as comfortable as possible in such an extreme environment. We are proud to offer climbers dome tents with a floor and enough clearance to stand up in—a relative luxury compared to other setups. We also have a dining tent with chairs, and we bring the best quality food we can get our hands on. Why do we care so much about climber comfort? We are firm believers in the Marginal Gains Philosophy, which means we capitalize on every little hidden advantage, 1% here, 1% there, which results in compounding gains and a huge overall improvement for our climbers.


What specialized cold-weather gear do I need for this climb? 

Wind, cold, and extreme conditions all factor into the specialized cold-weather gear that you will need to climb Vinson Massif. Much like Carstensz Pyramid, you won’t be able to purchase or replace any gear, which means your kit needs to be checked and double-checked before your expedition. Here are a few key pieces of cold-weather gear that are a must-have to ensure your expedition to Antarctica’s tallest peak is a success.

Lightweight Sled Duffel. Thanks to abundant, reliable snow on Vinson Massif, we use sleds to disperse the weight of our loads between Vinson Base Camp and Low Camp. This also means you can’t skimp on your training. Our go-to is dragging a large car tire connected to your harness while wearing a weighted pack to mimic the same motion. Be sure your duffel is waterproof and lightweight. We recommend the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 140L Expedition Duffel.

Expedition Down Pants. These will be worn on summit day and while relaxing at camp. A midweight synthetic pant like the Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pant is not warm enough (but it’s an excellent pant for other mountains). These must be fully zippered on both legs so you can put them on and take them off over your climbing boots and crampons without removing them. We recommend Feathered Friends Volant Down Pants.

Balaclava. Don’t underestimate the cold, and don’t try to cut corners or “make do” with old systems/gear. Polar temperatures are serious, and removing your face covering or a glove can lead to a cold-related injury. Your balaclava must cover your entire face in conjunction with your glacier glasses or goggles to prevent frostbite. Also, don’t forget your neck gaiter! We recommend the Outdoor Research Gorilla Gore-Tex®Infinium™ Balaclava.

-40°F/C Down Sleeping Bag. You might be catching on—having the right gear on Vinson Massif is critical. A down bag is a must, and synthetic bags should be avoided. They are too bulky and heavy when rated below 0°F. When researching and testing sleeping bags, ensure that they are roomy enough to fit your water bottles inside so they don’t freeze. We recommend the Feathered Friends Snow Goose ES -40 Sleeping Bag.

Hand Cream. Antarctica is incredibly cold and dry, which means hands tend to crack and split after repeated exposure to the elements. Using a hand cream or salve will keep your hands in good condition. Although we list this item as “optional” on our Gear List, we could emphasize more how helpful it will be once you are on the mountain. If you’re debating whether to bring it, bring it! You’ll be thankful. We recommend Super Salve.


What other adventures can I do in Antarctica before or after my expedition? 

You’ve made it all the way to Antarctica, which in itself is quite a feat! So why not add on an additional adventure to make the most of your time at the bottom of the Earth? We have several add-ons that you can take advantage of before or after your expedition to Vinson Massif. Below are a few of our favorite Antarctic adventures:

  • South Pole Last Degree Ski. For those working towards the Explorer’s Grand Slam or looking to maximize your acclimatization and training, tack on a Last Degree Ski to the South Pole—another of the world’s greatest adventures! We offer Vinson Massif and Last Degree Ski team departure dates that dovetail into each other for a seamless transition from the South Pole to the mountain. For more information on our South Pole Last Degree Ski, click here
  • Climb Mount Sidley. Standing at an impressive 14,058 ft (4,285 m), Mount Sidley is one of the Volcanic Seven Summits, as it is the tallest dormant volcano in Antarctica, and it is a testament to the raw power and beauty of the Antarctic wilderness that surrounds it. Summiting Mount Sidley is more than just a climb—it’s an expedition of a lifetime, an experience that will leave an indelible mark on your soul forever. For more information on Mount Sidley, click here
  • South Pole Flight and (optional) Overnight Stay. Celebrate your summit on Vinson Massif with a once-in-a-lifetime flight to the South Pole, where all 360 lines of longitude meet. In just a few steps, you can walk around the world! To sweeten the adventure, add on an exclusive overnight stay in the world’s southernmost resort. It doesn’t get much more epic than sleeping and waking up at 90°S. For more information on our South Pole Flight and Overnight Stay, click here
  • Three Glacier Retreat. Luxury glamping in Antarctica? Yes, please. This exclusive retreat is tucked into the mighty Ellsworth Mountains at the head of three glaciers: the Schneider, the Schanz, and the Driscoll. When you step out of your double-walled haven tent, you’ll stand in awe of the majestic peaks that rise in all directions, offering unlimited opportunities for snowmobiling, hiking, climbing, and skiing.  For more information on the Three Glacier Retreat, email us. 
  • Visit and Camp with Emperor Penguins. Get up close and personal with one of Antarctica’s most infamous creatures—the Emperor Penguin—at Gould Bay Camp along the remote coast of the Weddell Sea. Highlights include camping alongside thousands of penguins, catching glimpses of petrels and seals, and soaking up the surrounding landscape of ice cliffs, pressure ridges, and icebergs. For more information on this Emperor Penguin adventure, email us.


Final Thoughts on Vinson Massif

Vinson Massif is a place of extremes, from the sun and wind to the gear and logistics. When you pair all of these extreme elements together with the fact that Antarctica has no government, no permanent population, and is not ruled by any one country, it’s obvious why this is one of the greatest and most humbling expeditions for many mountaineers. In fact, fewer people have summited Vinson Massif than Mount Everest. If you want to join the ranks of climbers who have stood on the tallest mountain on the world’s coldest continent, join us for a life-changing expedition to Vinson Massif. 

If you have any questions that remain unanswered, our team at Climbing the Seven Summits is here to help. Drop us an email at info@climbingthesevensummits.com, and our team can offer one-to-one support to make your climbing dreams a reality.

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