Lobuche East
LOBUCHE | Nepal
Price Range:
$6,995 USD
Elevation:
6,119m
Duration:
Apr 1st - 22nd (22 days)
Difficulty:
Advanced Beginner
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Lobuche Peak is a jewel of the Himalaya and offers perhaps the best summit view in the world!
Surrounded by the tallest peaks on earth, the view from the summit takes in the Everest/Lhotse/Nuptse massif, Makalu, Pumori, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Thamserku, and many others.
This is a great first Himalayan climb and a great training peak for taller mountains such as Aconcagua, Ama Dablam, Manaslu & Everest.
The climbing consists of moderately steep snow and rock fixed line climbing.
If you’re fit and have a good sense of adventure then this climb is accessible to you.
We run through extensive training at Lobuche base camp before the climb to refresh skills & get you up to speed before making the ascent.
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Lobuche East Expedition
$6,995 USD
Annually; April 1st - April 22nd
Our Lobuche Expeditions are run annually in April to take advantage of the best weather and most favourable summit conditions.
One of our most popular Himalayan programs, it allows aspiring climbers the opportunity to tag a Himalayan gem alongside Everest summit guides and climbers as well as tick off a bucket list trek to Everest Base Camp and stay in Base Camp Proper for 2 nights.
You start your adventure by meeting in Kathmandu, Nepal. Here we will do thorough gear checks, have team briefings, pack and organise our gear for the climb and trek ahead.
Following our time in Kathmandu we fly as a team to Lukla to start the trek. We land at the Hillary runway at roughly 9,000ft/3,000m. From the moment you land in Lukla you will be at altitude. It’s important to take it easy and let your body adjust to the altitude naturally.
We take our time on the most iconic trek in the world, spending time visiting famous cultural and religious sights on our way through this scenic valley in the shadow of the world’s highest mountains. Our slow acclimatization schedule means there is plenty of time to explore landmarks like the famous Tengboche Monastery where you can stop by to visit a High Lama and receive a blessing, take time to explore the famous Namche Bazaar – the Sherpa capital or have a beer in the world’s highest pub. Passing by countless Tibetan Buddhist stupas and chortens, you will feel the rich culture of Tibetan Buddhism and the Sherpa come alive.
We choose to implement a slow acclimatization schedule, not just so you can take in the sights and sounds of the valley but to ensure you enjoy your trek and climbs and feel great throughout.
Altitude isn’t something to be feared; it’s achievable for most people but it is a process which can’t be rushed. Generic treks and climbs that move too quickly often have disgruntled, unwell people because their bodies are struggling to adjust.
You will trek and climb alongside our Everest guides and summit team. A once in a lifetime opportunity.
Staging the climb from our well equiped Lobuche Base Camp we will conduct training and skills clinics before moving up to High Camp to begin our ascent.
Following your summit of Lobuche you continue your trek to Everest Base Camp where you can celebrate with a 2x night visit to Base Camp Proper staying at CTSS’ famed camp.
Here you will also have the opportunity for some additional climbing in the lower part of the Khumbu icefall and a free day to unwind and explore EBC.
Leaving Base Camp, enjoy the return trip back down the Khumbu valley before flying back to Kathmandu and onward home.
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How early should I commit to my climb?
We feel that the sooner you commit the better as it gives you more time to prepare mentally and physically for the climb. Any Himalayan ascent is a big undertaking and something that you will want to work up to consistently. I have found that people are generally more successful when they commit earlier as it gives them longer to shake out any problems that may arise, arrange their home and work life to be away for a number of weeks and build their fitness endurance and strength up over time and thereby avoid injury etc.
What’s the best climb to prepare for Lobuche?
Hands down I think that Elbrus is the best, most specific Lobuche prep. You get an understanding of alpine climbing and all the skills you will need for the Lobuche ascent and exposure to altitude. That said, Lobuche is also an accessible peak for those at the start of their climbing careers, so having undertaken a ‘Introduction to Mountaineering’ course like our Alpine Academies is also sufficient preparation. We will also run through all the skills in a comprehensive refresher at Lobuche Base Camp so if you are feeling a little rusty on your crampons, don’t worry, we’ll get you dialled.
Will I need to purchase insurance?
Yes, trip insurance is required for this program and it needs to cover the entire cost of the trip and include trip cancellation, trip interruption, medical expenses, repatriation, and evacuation for the entire length of the expedition.
Trekkers are required to have the same coverage.
Unforeseen hiccups are part of adventure travel both before and during the expedition and it can be very expensive. Every effort should be taken to account for them in advance. Please forward a copy of your insurance for our records so that we can help you in the event that it needs to be used during the expedition. Most insurers require us to contact them immediately.
For more information on trip insurance please visit the “Trip Insurance” page
It’s a long time away from home – can my family and friends join me?
Yes, your family and friends are more than welcome to join us on the trek in to base camp and even climb Lobuche peak if they like. (Our standard treks stay a 2 nights in Base Camp before departing but we have had people stay longer and this can be arranged by chatting to us directly) Please let us know immediately if you have people who want to join us so that we can make arrangements for them. Space in hotels in Kathmandu and in the teahouses is limited during climbing season so we need to know final numbers asap!
What’s the acclimatization process?
Our entire expedition including the trip to Lobuche Base Camp is slow in order to allow our bodies ample time to acclimate. That means there can be plenty of down time while your body adjusts. Please bring a few books or a deck of cards. This is a slow process but it will give you a much better chance at success on the climb and trek. Make sure to communicate with your guides directly if you are experiencing any altitude issues.
How much cash should I bring?
It is better to have more money than you need than not enough, while most things are covered on the trip once you land in Kathmandu (check what’s included/what’s not included list for details) you will still need cash. The cash that you need to bring includes money for visas ($50 for 1 single entry 30 day), Sherpa tip pool ($600 for climbers and $300 for trekkers), money for staff tips (customary but optional) $200 for potential consultation and treatment by the doctors at base camp, $500 to cover expenses for a potential early departure (not often, but sometimes this occurs) and $1,500 – $5,000 if you think you’ll want a helicopter ride out, $300 for miscellaneous expenses like non-group meals, shopping, drinks around Kathmandu and while on the trip to base camp if you want wifi, sodas, specialty coffees, bottled water, charging of devices or snacks (meals are covered), Generally we recommend bringing $2,000 – $3,000 USD plus a credit card to cover all potential expenses including an early departure but it is unlikely that you will need all of this. Small denominations (1’s, 5’s, 10’s and 20’s) are better and although American dollars are accepted, you can change money into Nepali rupees at change houses when you arrive. Rates are generally about the same and I’ve never encountered one that isn’t legitimate. Also, there are now quite a few ATM’s around town where you can use your card to take out local cash at a good rate. It is much more difficult to change money, especially large sums, once in the Khumbu Valley. Please let your credit card company know you will be traveling so you can use your card (and not set off the fraud alert due to using the card in a foreign country)
How much gear can I bring?
We pay for yak + porter transport for two 50lb duffels (one trekking duffel that will travel with you and one climbing duffel that will go straight to base camp); this should be more than enough weight. If you want to bring more than this with you, you will be expected to pay for the excess weight. This amount will include excess on the flight to Lukla and then be roughly $300/duffel each way to base camp beyond the two duffel allotments. Transport is getting more expensive every year so please leave the kitchen sink at home (we already have those at base camp)! Just bring what you need to be comfortable but not more than that. It is unlikely that you will need two full duffels for the Lobuche climb so please bring only 1 if you can fit everything into 1.
What immunizations do I need?
Make sure your immunizations are up to date. Consult your doctor, local travel clinic, or the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) for updated information on immunizations for Nepal and China. Recommended immunizations include diphtheria-tetanus (DPT), polio, mumps-measles-rubella (MMR), meningitis, hepatitis A and B, cholera and typhoid, and rabies. Malaria shouldn’t be a problem in Kathmandu or on the climb. If you plan to travel to lower-elevation areas in Nepal before or after the climb, you should consider malaria chemoprophylaxis.
How should I pack?
For the trip to base camp climbers will need to pack in two separate duffels: a base camp duffel and a trekking duffel. Climber’s base camp duffel will not be accessible while on the trek and should contain all of your climbing gear (crampons, axes, down suit etc) and items you won’t need until we reach Lobuche. Your trekking duffel will contain everything you will need for the trip to Lobuche Base Camp including your trekking gear, rain gear, street clothes, and a light sleeping bag. Trekkers will have everything with them in one duffel. Please keep everything you will need with you such as medications and medical supplies. What will go in your trekking and base camp duffels will be covered in more detail in Kathmandu. Pack an additional small lightweight carry on bag or duffel in your luggage to leave street, travel clothes and things you won’t need on the expedition at the hotel in Kathmandu
I have dietary requirements, can you cater for those?
Yes, our chefs are amazing and are well versed in catering for a wide variety of dietary allergies. Around food preferences we ask that you roll with the punches a little in the more remote parts of Nepal and embrace what is locally and seasonably available. We will do our best wherever we are to make sure you can choose what you like and what you prefer to avoid. Please feel free to chat to us about your needs.
Why do I need to bring my own snacks?
We supply a large amount of group snacks and meal food for the mountain and will have lots of good stuff but we want to make sure everyone has the food that they need. Even people who aren’t usually picky about food can get really particular about what they can digest at altitude and getting lots of calories is hugely important.
Gu packs, shot blocks, nuts, Snickers bars, cheese, etc… whatever it is that you know you can eat, (even when you don’t want to eat anything) is best. Getting speciality and familiar food can be difficult in Nepal so it’s best you bring what you love from home. Also, bring a good supply of cough drops or hard candy as you might like them in the dry air. We’ll have some for the team but people seem to go through them really quickly.
How safe is the food and water?
As in Kathmandu, once on the trail into base camp it is highly recommended that you stick to treated rather than tap water. Properly boiled water is available in all the teahouses and bottled water is readily available in stores en route but to reduce the amount of trash and pollution in the valley we encourage you buying boiled or UV treated water from teahouses. You can also bring your own water treatment solution. We will provide some teas and coffees at meal times but if you want sodas, bottled waters, specialty coffees, or drinks outside of meal times we ask that you purchase them yourself.
Nepal isn’t known for its cuisine. The food can become a bit monotonous but its energy dense and fulfilling. Asian inspired, there is a lot of fried rice, rice based meals, soups, omelettes etc. Stick to meals where the food is obviously local. We stay in reputable teahouses and have our own cooks who have a good understanding of food hygiene so our climbers and trekkers rarely get sick. It’s ok and somewhat expected to get a slightly upset tummy as you’ll be eating food that is different to what you are used to. At Base Camp, we have our own chefs who are incredible and take every precaution. They also cook Western foods, have fresh food resupplied regularly and serve a good variety. CTSS is known to have the best food on the mountain and given where in the world we are, that’s a remarkable feat.
Will I be sharing a tent?
Above Lobuche Base Camp, there are a few nights where you may be sharing a tent with another climber for safety, warmth and to reduce the number of dangerous loads the Sherpa need to carry. At Lobuche Base Camp & Everest Base Camp, you will have your own tent.
What about phones & wifi?
We understand it’s important to stay in touch with friends and family and on top of your inbox where you can. There are a number of ways to do this;
We suggest picking up a local Ncell sim card in Kathmandu with a data package. Signal is reliable in Kathmandu & in many parts of Nepal it is strong enough to support both calls and data.
You can buy a local Ncell sim card in Kathmandu and there is a Ncell store close to our hotel that we are happy to show. Your phone will need to be unlocked and you will need your passport to get a sim card. You can get recharge cards almost anywhere. This is by far the most affordable way of staying connected and getting data. If you’d like to use your own sim card, talk to your provider about activating your international roaming and you should be able to tie into the local networks.
Please keep devices like laptops, smartphones and iPads waterproofed in your trekking packs so they don’t break in your duffels. You will be responsible for your own valuables.
In the more remote areas of Nepal, higher in the Khumbu, on Lobuche and at Everest Base Camp, it’s best to assume that there won’t be any cell service.There will be a satellite phone with the team but we need to be mindful of recharging ability and keeping the airwaves free for emergencies. It can be made available to team members at $3/minute. If you plan on bringing your own satellite phone with you, you are required to register it with Nepal which costs thousands of dollars. Should you choose not to register it and use it anyway, you do so at your own risk.
How heavy will my pack be?
In general, climbing packs on Lobuche are relatively light. You will likely be carrying 15lbs – 30lbs (7kg – 12kg) most of the time while climbing and less on the trek into base camp. While climbing you should be prepared to carry your gear for the day and some of your personal gear for the mountain. Sherpa will carry all of the group gear and help with personal gear where possible.
How do I charge my devices?
Given the local expense of electricity, teahouses charge you to repower and recharge your electronic devices en route to base camp. This tends to get more expensive up the valley and a portable battery pack is a good idea. You will need to bring an adapter. This cost is your own expense. At Everest Base camp we will have solar panels to assist with charging your devices.
I’d like my own room in hotels & teahouses…
All hotels and teahouses are double or triple occupancy but once we get to base camp you will have your own tent to spread out in. If you want single rooms en route to base camp, we can arrange this at an additional cost. Sometimes teahouses are full during the climbing season and may not have room to accommodate single rooms so please let us know as early as possible for the best chance of us securing a private room. Again this is adventure travel and we ask you to roll with the punches if they are not available.
Do I need a visa? How do I navigate Kathmandu airport arrivals?
Often just getting to Nepal can be the hardest part. Once you’re on the ground it’s time to relax. Upon exiting the plane walk to the left of the customs area and have your passport, photo, money, and visa form handy. You must pay for your visa first at the desk straight ahead and to the left before getting in the “Visa Upon Entry” line (far left of the large room). Purchase the a 30 day visa single entry Nepali visa.
http://www.nepalimmigration.gov.np/page/visa-on-arrival
In the Khumbu, what’s not included?
We cover almost everything in the cost of the trip once we start the trek so there shouldn’t be too many other expenses that you need to worry about. The biggest expense is tips. The Sherpa tip pool is $400 for climbers and $300 for trekkers and we will collect that at the beginning of the climb to disperse amongst the entire team at the end of the climb including cook staff and dining staff. People sometimes tip their individual summit Sherpa a bit more. The other personal expenses people accrue are wifi (through third party operators) additional personal snacks, drinking, charging of devices & toilet paper. We suggest you bring a portable charger and pack a few additional rolls of toilet paper for the trek in.
What’s the deal with blog updates?
We know family and friends will want to follow your progress so we will be posting regular updates to the Climbing the Seven Summits blog here: http://climbingthesevensummits.com/blog/ We try to update it as often as possible but make sure your loved ones know that ‘no news is good news’. If a few days pass between updates it doesn’t mean that anything is wrong, simply that we are probably busy climbing.
Didn't find an answer to your question? Don't hesitate to ask us.
Free Expert Advice
When you sign up for an expedition, you become part of the CTSS family.
This means a free consult with Mike Hamill—the author of Climbing the Seven Summits—or one of his expert team.
Personalized strategy, progression planning, expert coaching, and advice on how to get the most out of your climbing journey!
6x Reasons to Choose CTSS
Safety
Your safety and success are our priorities in that order. We make conservative decisions, plan redundancies and all our guides have wilderness medical training, safety & rescue plans & access to doctors 24/7 to help keep you safe.
Value for $
We keep our overheads low to pass savings on to you. We are proud to offer the best service for the most competitive price, without skimping on safety or taking shortcuts with logistics, staffing and infrastructure.
Holistic Approach
Our service goes far beyond the mountain. Think of us as your climbing coach, we’ll be there from start to finish to prepare, debrief and plan your progression as a mountaineer, whether your goal is a single summit or the Seven.
Guides & Team
Guides can make or break your climb. We hand pick the most qualified, tenured, tested and personable guides and Sherpa in the world. Owner and mountaineer Mike Hamill personally oversees the management of each expedition.
Our Values
We care about you, our people and the planet and we walk our talk by donating a percentage of every expedition to Tiger of the Snows fund which supports outdoor tourism workers all over the world and following strict Leave No Trace principles amongst other initiatives.
Success
We have an unparalleled summit success rate. How? We do it in a myriad of ways; like a great chef’s secret sauce, we've fine tuned the recipe over decades but most importantly, we believe in you & your ability to achieve your goals and are invested in putting you on top.
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The word trust comes to mind when I think about CTSS and why I will continue to engage them in future. When undertaking activities as serious as mountain climbing you need people you can trust, not to just make the good times happen but who have your back if things go bad.
- Scott G, Australia
Testimonials
An incredible experience from start to finish. I can’t say enough what a difference it makes to have a great guide who cares so much about the whole experience and a great time to make the journey so special. I hope this is the first of many climbs with CTSS for me.Kevin A, USA
As expected you run a first class show from start to finish… I look forward to the next adventure.Len F, USA
I cannot even put into words how incredible that trip was for me – you truly run everything top notch and it shows in every single part of the trip. Your patience in teaching/coaching in a way that I didn’t feel intimidated by was amazing and so so appreciated. I am in awe of this whole experienceJulie M, USA
Lobuche East Inquiry Form
How to Choose a First Ascent Expedition
Each year we work with our legendary Nepali climbing guides to identify an unclimbed peak in a remote region of Nepal for our ascent. The region, height, and difficulties vary year to year and are kept top secret until the team is signed up to preserve it as a world first.
This climb is open to anyone with an adventurous spirit who wants to get off the beaten path and experience climbing the way it was centuries ago. Many of our climbers are Seven Summits and Himalayan veterans are looking for something a little more wild, while others are experienced climbers that have never climbed in Nepal before and want a technical challenge.
We will be climbing between 6,000 and 7,000m so some previous altitude experience is recommended.
Climbers joining this team need to realize that, despite our best efforts to provide air-tight logistics and climbing, that this is a true adventure off the beaten path so there will be hiccups and climbers need to be willing to, and comfortable, rolling with the punches. Not everything will go as planned and that is the norm not the exception. Since these regions are not tourism destinations the journey will be rugged and the climbing obstacles somewhat unknown.
This is exactly what we are after but it is also why you need to have complete trust in your expedition company.
More than on any other expedition on a First Ascent demands superior guidance, safety and logistics across the board.
Safety & Success
Your safety and success are the top priorities, in that order.
A First Ascent while different in its pioneering nature still follows all of the same extremely high safety protocols that we employ on all of our expeditions.
For instance, we will send scouting parties ahead of the main team to assess the peak, identify and map hazards and mitigate risks as much as possible. Wherever the terrain is steep with fall potential our Sherpa will setup fixed lines to make the new route more approachable and safe and while we are in a remote area we still have generous redundancies, medical and communications equipment to cover any eventuality.
On expedition our Guides will give you daily briefings on the route, weather, plan of attack and schedule. In line with our other expeditions we will make conservative calls when it comes to risks, conditions and acclimatisation schedules.
Leadership
Your guides, leaders and Sherpa team will be seasoned experts with proven track records. Their strategy will be patient, conservative and well planned which will give you the best opportunity for success. Remember that the mountain is always there so your safety must come first.
All of our Nepal First Ascent expeditions are organized and overseen by CTSS owner Mike Hamill and led by legendary Nepali guide, Tendi Sherpa.
Tendi’s leadership and experience in remote regions of Nepal are both unequalled and indispensable. He is one of most highly sought-after Guides from Everest to Aconcagua and beyond, and you will love having him at the helm for this experience.
Skills Clinic & Training
Although this is an intermediate level climbing expedition and we expect climbers to be strong and capable on steeper terrain, we will still run comprehensive training clinics while on expedition to shake out and refresh our skills making sure our entire team is ready to ascend the peak.
Don’t worry if you haven’t done extensive amounts of ice or rock climbing and haven’t been on exposed alpine terrain in a while as you can expect your Guides to take you through all of the techniques you will use on the climb ahead s well as some of the often overlooked, more intrinsic climbing skills like the rest step, pressure breathing and pacing.
Marginal Gains - The small things add up!
Have you heard of the “Marginal Gains” philosophy?
The idea is that by capitalising on every little hidden advantage, 1% here, 1% there, gains quickly compound into a huge overall improvement.
CTSS prides itself on this kind of innovation across all of our expeditions including our First Ascent Program. We optimize both the big details like guide staff, schedules etc, all the way through to the tiny comfort details. For instance we employ our own chef to serve us hearty, nutritious food which is delicious vs. eating dehydrated or basic camp meals because we know well fed climbers are happy, healthy climbers with more energy on summit day. People may dismiss these little luxuries as ‘soft’ but in fact we invest in them because they are highly strategic. It’s also why we invest in the best Guides & equipment.
Does an operator have strong values?
This is sometimes a little harder to identify as it’s more a feeling than a sales pitch, but you should get a feel for a company through their little interactions, their care factor, their attention to detail, their corporate social responsibility, their response to you.
Mountaineering can be high risk and stressful so pick an operator who has strong core values and a team mentality that aligns with yours so that when things get challenging you can rely on open lines of communication, knowing they will do what they can to support you and keep you safe.
It is this team cohesiveness that flows through to each individual climber and helps them stand on top.
First Ascent Expedition Beta & Route
Elevation: 6,000-7,000m
Duration & Season: Nepalese Fall (October- November)
Continent: Asia
Country: Nepal
Difficulty: Intermediate
Route: To Be Decided! By you and your team!!
Special Considerations:
This expedition is reserved for those that want to trek and climb off the beaten path and challenge themselves against the unknown.
This is not a “regular departure” like many of our other programs. The peak will be kept secret until you are committed on the team and while on expedition we will be figuring out how to best approach and climb the peak in real time. Because of this, climbers should plan for the unexpected throughout the expedition (despite our best efforts to the contrary) and should be looking for an adventure of this kind.
This expedition will encompass trekking and camping in remote parts of Nepal that don’t get much tourism. Climbers should expect rough terrain and not a lot of amenities like electricity and internet that are available elsewhere. We will also be climbing a new route so we will be dealing with technical climbing difficulties and obstacles as we ascend the peak.
Climbers should expect steep snow and ice climbing, some rock climbing, and fixed line ascension.
Nepal Travel Guide
Expedition Meets in: Kathmandu, Nepal
Continent: Asia
Currency: Nepalese Rupee
Population: 28million
Official Language: Nepali
Seasons to climb: March to May = Spring | September to December = Fall
Things you Need to Know:
Tourist Visas
The visa policy of Nepal is relatively relaxed and straightforward allowing citizens of almost any country to obtain a visa on arrival at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International airport or at any road order. You can also obtain a visa at the Nepal embassy or consulate in your home country.
For most of our expeditions you will want a 30 day (US$50) or 90 day (US$125) visa.
Tourist visa can be extended for a maximum period of 150 days in a single visa year (January – December)
Visa requirements can change at anytime so it is worth checking with your travel agent or closest embassy for the most up to date information.
Getting there
You will need to fly into Kathmandu on, or before, the official arrival day of your expedition. A CTSS representative will pick you up at the airport so please advise us well in advance your arrival time and flight number. If you experience a delay travelling let us know immediately.
Money
In Kathmandu there is good access to ATMs and credit card facilities at most shops and restaurants but you should still have adequate Nepalese rupees and carry small denominations. Once you are in the Khumbu access to ATMs is very limited and while they can be found in the bigger hubs like Lukla and Namche, outages can be common so best not to rely exclusively on being able to access cash as you go. Responsibly carry adequate amounts of local currency for your needs and reserves for emergencies. We advise our clients in our team emails as to how much cash they should bring. USD is also selectively accepted.
Tipping
Tipping has become more common in Nepal in recent times due to increased tourism.
It is customary for your guides, porters and Sherpa staff. To make this process easier CTSS will collect and distribute fairly a ‘Sherpa Tip Pool’ and advise you on current amounts. In major tourist areas, hotels and restaurants you will often see a ‘service charge’ of 10% – this usually equals a tip. In smaller, local eateries it’s rare to see this and then it is up to your discretion.
Adapters
Nepal actually uses three plug types – C (two round pins) D (three round pins in a triangular pattern) & M (three round pins) so consider purchasing a reliable universal adapter that gives you all the options. Also it’s VERY important to note that Nepal operates on 230V supply and a supply voltage of 50HZ. If this differs from your home, buy a voltage converter to avoid frying your devices! For instance the standard voltage in the US is 120V and some older devices won’t handle a 230V supply.
Tap Water
The tap water and river water in Nepal is unsafe to drink so please use bottled water, purification tablets, or boiled water for drinking and brushing your teeth. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Your body requires more at altitude.
Personal Safety
Despite perceptions, Nepal is a relatively safe destination for travellers and there is a low rate of serious crime however you should still take sensible precautions.
Watch out for pick-pockets and bag-snatching, particularly in airports, on buses and in popular tourist areas like Thamel, Sanepa and Kupondol in Kathmandu. Avoid walking on your own and don’t carry or flaunt large sums of cash. Keep valuables in a hotel safe if possible. Behave in Nepal as you would at home, err on the conservative side in terms of dress and behaviour. Be respectful and always let your Guide know if you’re going to venture out and what your plan is. In general, we prefer to travel and stick together as a team.
Vaccinations
Consult your doctor or travel clinic in your home country for updated information on immunizations for Nepal and China. The usual recommended vaccinations are Diphtheria-tetanus, polio, measles, mumps and rubella, meningitis, hepatitis A & B, cholera, typhoid & rabies. Malaria shouldn’t be a problem in Kathmandu or on the climb. If you plan to travel to lower-elevation areas before or after the climb you should consider a malaria chemoprophylaxsis.
First Ascent Advice from Mike Hamill
A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' First Ascent' Expedition from Mike Hamill
It has been our dream (and the dream of many of our climbers) to tackle an unclimbed peak.
In many ways this expedition is the culmination of all that we have learned as Guides and Expedition Leaders over the years and puts all our expertise and skill to the test. As such, this expedition is not for the faint of heart. If you are looking for a tranquil beach vacation or even a standard program on one of the Seven Summits, you may have stumbled upon the wrong expedition page… This is said not to dissuade or intimidate you, but instead to ask for your full buy-in to this amazing adventure.
With no one coming before us, there is no detailed route information or pool of common knowledge to to draw on. Our prior knowledge will be drawn from scouting missions (don’t worry our scout teams won’t tag the top without you!) and satellite images so we must rely on each other to climb as a team.
This is critical and we need to have full reliance and stick together, engaged and motivated towards our common end. Humility, patience and determination are prerequisites on this program.
As we progress we will inevitably need to adapt our plan of attack, our schedule and probably our route multiple times throughout the expedition. This is all part of the joy of discovering the undiscovered and climbing as the pioneers did centuries ago. Not to sound cliche but the ultimate reward on this expedition will be in the journey and not the summit.
My best piece of advice is to remain open minded as the expedition advances. There will be days when it seems achievable and within reach, and days when the summit seems elusive. We will spend much of our time troubleshooting routes to find the safest & best path, navigating the weather and patiently acclimatizing. We’ll be in a remote place without the usual infrastructure or amenities so it’ll be roughing it in parts but truly off the beaten track and wild.
The excitement is that no one knows what will eventuate but keeping positive and in the spirit of adventure will help make sure your expedition and that of your teammates is safe, enjoyable and successful.
All the best,
Mike Hamill
First Ascent Preparation & Prerequisites
Experience Level
The 3 Peaks Expedition is a great intermediate expedition which is well suited to climbers who are fit and have basic mountaineering skills and a good sense of adventure. (It’s ok to be a little rusty on your skill set as we will do a comprehensive refresher as part of your climb with skills clinics at both Lobuche & Everest Base Camp to get you up to speed)
Ideally you are already confident and familiar with your harness, crampon and ice axe techniques and cold management.
If you’re not sure if you have the experience for this climb, please ask us as we can help recommend other training to get prepared for the 3 Peaks Expedition.
Physical Training:
It is important that you are very physically fit and healthy and you can dedicate time to ‘climbing specific training’ in the lead up to your expedition. You will be required to climb up to 8-10hrs per day. Being in top shape will also ensure you enjoy your climb, feel good throughout and get the most out of the experience.
It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. Instead you need to emulate long physical days (8hrs +) in the mountains.
We recommend that you:
- Start specific mountaineering training at least 3 months in advance
- Train at least 5 days a week for an hour or more
- Focus on high volume but low intensity training
- A good goal is to be able to comfortably climb 1,500 vertical ft per hour with 6-8kg, 15lbs day pack
- Schedule a few weekends where you can do two or more full days back to back. Multi day hikes with good elevation are ideal.
Mindset:
Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak.
You should be prepared:
- To be away from home/work for 3 weeks with long periods of being out of range
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow team mates
- Be humble, respectful and considerate even under pressure
First Ascent Helicopter Options
We can arrange a Helicopter from Base camp back to either the domestic airport and possibly Kathmandu at the end of the expedition:
Many of our climbers say that one of the best experiences of their entire expedition is taking a helicopter flight back down the valley and getting an aerial view of the trek and the climb they’ve just achieved. It is, without doubt, one of the most scenic, adventurous mountain flights in the world.
Further, while people initially think they will want to undertake a long, arduous multi-day trek back down the valley, we’ve found that after a long expedition on the mountain, the draw of civilisation, getting back to family and friends & enjoying that well-deserved beer can be irresistible!
Chat to us about what helicopter options are open for your First Ascent
First Ascent Family & Friends
We welcome you to invite friends and family to join you on your First Ascent Expedition
The benefits are:
- The joy of sharing this once in a lifetime experience with your loved ones
- Lessening the time apart
- Puts family at ease as they get a first hand understanding and empathy of the nature of your expedition and goal
First Ascent Trekking Team
$6,995 - $8,995 USD
Family and Friends often love to share your expedition and the Nepal First Ascent expedition is an ideal adventure as it allows your loved ones to not only trek in one of the most beautiful places on earth but explore off the beaten track elements of Nepal. These are seldom seen valleys far from the main thoroughfare full of authentic local culture minus the crowds.
If they are pressed for time, they can elect to just accompany you to Base Camp for 2 nights and then descend back to Kathmandu ($6,995) or they are welcome to stay with us for the entire expedition ($8,995)
If they choose to stay for the entire expedition, the time you are separated is actually quite limited. When you are high on the mountain, they can enjoy the relaxing down time at base camp taking in the majestic Himalaya with some local Chai tea or take up the opportunity to go on lite excursions with our camp staff on their rest days.
We’d be delighted to make it a family or friends adventure! Feel free to extend the invitation!
First Ascent Classic Expedition
$22,995 USD
Annually; 10th October - 8th November
Our Nepal First Ascent climb is one of our most prized programs and an opportunity for you to do something truly unique. We look forward to exploring a never-before visited part of the world with you.
You will start your trailblazing adventure by meeting in Kathmandu, Nepal. Here we will do thorough gear checks, have team briefings, repack and reorganise our gear for the journey ahead.
Following our time in Kathmandu we fly domestically as a team to a remote part of Nepal to begin our trek to Base Camp. From the moment you begin the trek you will be at altitude. It’s important to take it easy and let your body adjust to the altitude naturally. Altitude isn’t something to be feared; it’s achievable for most people but it is a process which can’t be rushed. Inexperienced operators and generic expeditions that move too quickly often have disgruntled, unwell people because their bodies are struggling to adjust.
It’s also important to be aware we will be traveling through more remote regions of Nepal that receive very little, if any, tourism so expect this to be real adventure travel. That said, you will be awed by the beauty of the landscape and the genuine and friendly Nepali people. You can expect it to be rugged and strenuous at times but this hard work will pay dividends.
As we acclimatise we will enjoy spending time absorbing the rich Tibetan culture passing by countless Tibetan Buddhist stupas and Chortens and taking in any sightseeing landmarks. We will endeavour to visit a High Lama and receive a traditional blessing for our mountain ahead.
Once at base camp we will set up our own comfortable ‘home away from home’, settle in, plan and adjust our approach to the peak. We will run through an alpine training and refresher skills clinic while at base camp and go through the various equipment/food caches that we will need for the upper mountain.
We will make a series of forays up the mountain in order to continue our acclimatisation, test our route and scout for hazards before our summit attempt.
Following your climb there will be ample time to celebrate while returning back down the valley and take in your achievement in this remarkable corner of the world before flying back to Kathmandu and onward home.
Unlike our other expeditions, a solid itinerary isn’t possible for such an unknown and unpredictable climb and will vary widely as we’ll be setting it as we go! (in any case we need to keep details scarce as possible in public forums for obvious reasons)
We will have a more detailed itinerary for the team in Kathmandu but you can expect a rough timeline like this:
Rough Itinerary:
- Days 1-3 Team Arrives/Gear Checks/Briefings
- Days 4-12 Journey & Trek to Base Camp
- Days 13-15 Acclimatisation & Training
- Days 15-22 Climbing rotations & summit
- Days 23 - 26 Descend and Return to Kathmandu
- Days 26 - 29 Contingency Days
- Day 30 Fly home
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list so you know what to expect
Included in the First Ascent Expedition:
- Leadership, strategy, climbing oversight including full support for a summit attempt
- Climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Climbing permits for an unclimbed peak in Nepal
- Training and skills refresher clinics
- Domestic flights internally to and from the mountain region
- In country transport associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Lodging in Nepal including hotels in Kathmandu, teahouses (twin share) and mountain camps
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Access to medical and communications gear
- Mountain camp infrastructure and logistics including tents
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the First Ascent Expedition:
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport,
- Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries etc
- Personal sundries including but not limited to; non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees
- Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
- Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs
- Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
- Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition including contingencies days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
City Tours & Nepal Extensions
Nepal is one of the world’s most popular destinations. With incredible landscapes and rich culture, once there, it is truly worth seeing as much of the country as you can.
We can seamlessly organise a variety of fantastic customised excursions and extensions for you either prior to, or after your expedition.
Contact Us for any requests you have so we can plan them seamlessly for you
Pre Trip Full Day Kathmandu Cultural Tour
$200 per person
Kathmandu is one of the most exciting, culturally rich cities in the world. Unique, and overflowing with sights, smells, sounds and tastes, it’s both chaotic and charming. A city of true contrast which needs to be experienced to be understood. During our Kathmandu Cultural Tour an English speaking guide will show you the best history and culture the city has to offer.
Paragliding in Pokhara (Annapurna Region)
Take in the spectacular views of the Himalaya whilst paragliding over Lake Pokhara. Nepal offers some of the best flying in the world with low lying valleys, high cold mountains and natural rising thermals that you can share with the hawks! You can fly with world class pilots tandem or stay longer and benefit from the wealth of experience and get your international license in Nepal. Spend a few days at the Lake and truly unwind with a change of scenery.
Trek the Annapurna Circuit or Sanctuary Walk
On a mission to tick off the best treks in the world? Why not take advantage of your fitness and experience the Annapurna region with either the Sanctuary Walk (Slightly shorter and slightly lower altitude) or the Annapurna Circuit (Slightly longer and crosses the 5,416m Thorong La pass into the Mustang region)
Jungle Safari in Chitwan National Park
One of the greatest drawcards of Nepal, Chitwan National Park is a World Heritage Site that protects 932 sq km of forest and grasslands and is arguably the best place in Asia to view wild game including horned rhino, monkeys, deer and over 500 species of bear. If you are lucky you may even spot a leopard, sloth or elephant or even the elusive Bengal tiger!
Visit the Upper Mustang
To trek in the Upper Mustang is a very rare privilege and has only been open to non-Nepali’ for just over 15years. Here you will experience a way of life of true mountain people, who for hundreds of years had very little contact with the rest of Nepal and retained their rich cultural heritage. In many ways, visiting the Upper Mustang is similar to Tibet as geographically it is a part of the Tibetan plateau.