How to Choose a First Ascent Expedition

Each year we work with our legendary Nepali climbing guides to identify an unclimbed peak in a remote region of Nepal for our ascent. The region, height, and difficulties vary year to year and are kept top secret until the team is signed up to preserve it as a world first.
This climb is open to anyone with an adventurous spirit who wants to get off the beaten path and experience climbing the way it was centuries ago. Many of our climbers are Seven Summits and Himalayan veterans are looking for something a little more wild, while others are experienced climbers that have never climbed in Nepal before and want a technical challenge.
We will be climbing between 6,000 and 7,000m so some previous altitude experience is recommended.
Climbers joining this team need to realize that, despite our best efforts to provide air-tight logistics and climbing, that this is a true adventure off the beaten path so there will be hiccups and climbers need to be willing to, and comfortable, rolling with the punches. Not everything will go as planned and that is the norm not the exception. Since these regions are not tourism destinations the journey will be rugged and the climbing obstacles somewhat unknown.
This is exactly what we are after but it is also why you need to have complete trust in your expedition company.
More than on any other expedition on a First Ascent demands superior guidance, safety and logistics across the board.
Safety & Success
Your safety and success are the top priorities, in that order.
A First Ascent while different in its pioneering nature still follows all of the same extremely high safety protocols that we employ on all of our expeditions.
For instance, we will send scouting parties ahead of the main team to assess the peak, identify and map hazards and mitigate risks as much as possible. Wherever the terrain is steep with fall potential our Sherpa will setup fixed lines to make the new route more approachable and safe and while we are in a remote area we still have generous redundancies, medical and communications equipment to cover any eventuality.
On expedition our Guides will give you daily briefings on the route, weather, plan of attack and schedule. In line with our other expeditions we will make conservative calls when it comes to risks, conditions and acclimatisation schedules.
Leadership
Your guides, leaders and Sherpa team will be seasoned experts with proven track records. Their strategy will be patient, conservative and well planned which will give you the best opportunity for success. Remember that the mountain is always there so your safety must come first.
All of our Nepal First Ascent expeditions are organized and overseen by CTSS owner Mike Hamill and led by legendary Nepali guide, Tendi Sherpa.
Tendi’s leadership and experience in remote regions of Nepal are both unequalled and indispensable. He is one of most highly sought-after Guides from Everest to Aconcagua and beyond, and you will love having him at the helm for this experience.
Skills Clinic & Training
Although this is an intermediate level climbing expedition and we expect climbers to be strong and capable on steeper terrain, we will still run comprehensive training clinics while on expedition to shake out and refresh our skills making sure our entire team is ready to ascend the peak.
Don’t worry if you haven’t done extensive amounts of ice or rock climbing and haven’t been on exposed alpine terrain in a while as you can expect your Guides to take you through all of the techniques you will use on the climb ahead s well as some of the often overlooked, more intrinsic climbing skills like the rest step, pressure breathing and pacing.
Marginal Gains - The small things add up!
Have you heard of the “Marginal Gains” philosophy?
The idea is that by capitalising on every little hidden advantage, 1% here, 1% there, gains quickly compound into a huge overall improvement.
CTSS prides itself on this kind of innovation across all of our expeditions including our First Ascent Program. We optimize both the big details like guide staff, schedules etc, all the way through to the tiny comfort details. For instance we employ our own chef to serve us hearty, nutritious food which is delicious vs. eating dehydrated or basic camp meals because we know well fed climbers are happy, healthy climbers with more energy on summit day. People may dismiss these little luxuries as ‘soft’ but in fact we invest in them because they are highly strategic. It’s also why we invest in the best Guides & equipment.
Does an operator have strong values?
This is sometimes a little harder to identify as it’s more a feeling than a sales pitch, but you should get a feel for a company through their little interactions, their care factor, their attention to detail, their corporate social responsibility, their response to you.
Mountaineering can be high risk and stressful so pick an operator who has strong core values and a team mentality that aligns with yours so that when things get challenging you can rely on open lines of communication, knowing they will do what they can to support you and keep you safe.
It is this team cohesiveness that flows through to each individual climber and helps them stand on top.
First Ascent Expedition Beta & Route
Elevation: 6,000-7,000m
Duration & Season: Nepalese Fall (October- November)
Continent: Asia
Country: Nepal
Difficulty: Intermediate
Route: To Be Decided! By you and your team!!
Special Considerations:
This expedition is reserved for those that want to trek and climb off the beaten path and challenge themselves against the unknown.
This is not a “regular departure” like many of our other programs. The peak will be kept secret until you are committed on the team and while on expedition we will be figuring out how to best approach and climb the peak in real time. Because of this, climbers should plan for the unexpected throughout the expedition (despite our best efforts to the contrary) and should be looking for an adventure of this kind.
This expedition will encompass trekking and camping in remote parts of Nepal that don’t get much tourism. Climbers should expect rough terrain and not a lot of amenities like electricity and internet that are available elsewhere. We will also be climbing a new route so we will be dealing with technical climbing difficulties and obstacles as we ascend the peak.
Climbers should expect steep snow and ice climbing, some rock climbing, and fixed line ascension.

Nepal Travel Guide
Expedition Meets in: Kathmandu, Nepal
Continent: Asia
Currency: Nepalese Rupee
Population: 28million
Official Language: Nepali
Seasons to climb: March to May = Spring | September to December = Fall
Things you Need to Know:
Tourist Visas
The visa policy of Nepal is relatively relaxed and straightforward allowing citizens of almost any country to obtain a visa on arrival at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International airport or at any road order. You can also obtain a visa at the Nepal embassy or consulate in your home country.
For most of our expeditions you will want a 30 day (US$50) or 90 day (US$125) visa.
Tourist visa can be extended for a maximum period of 150 days in a single visa year (January – December)
Visa requirements can change at anytime so it is worth checking with your travel agent or closest embassy for the most up to date information.

Getting there
You will need to fly into Kathmandu on, or before, the official arrival day of your expedition. A CTSS representative will pick you up at the airport so please advise us well in advance your arrival time and flight number. If you experience a delay travelling let us know immediately.
Money
In Kathmandu there is good access to ATMs and credit card facilities at most shops and restaurants but you should still have adequate Nepalese rupees and carry small denominations. Once you are in the Khumbu access to ATMs is very limited and while they can be found in the bigger hubs like Lukla and Namche, outages can be common so best not to rely exclusively on being able to access cash as you go. Responsibly carry adequate amounts of local currency for your needs and reserves for emergencies. We advise our clients in our team emails as to how much cash they should bring. USD is also selectively accepted.
Tipping
Tipping has become more common in Nepal in recent times due to increased tourism.
It is customary for your guides, porters and Sherpa staff. To make this process easier CTSS will collect and distribute fairly a ‘Sherpa Tip Pool’ and advise you on current amounts. In major tourist areas, hotels and restaurants you will often see a ‘service charge’ of 10% – this usually equals a tip. In smaller, local eateries it’s rare to see this and then it is up to your discretion.
Adapters
Nepal actually uses three plug types – C (two round pins) D (three round pins in a triangular pattern) & M (three round pins) so consider purchasing a reliable universal adapter that gives you all the options. Also it’s VERY important to note that Nepal operates on 230V supply and a supply voltage of 50HZ. If this differs from your home, buy a voltage converter to avoid frying your devices! For instance the standard voltage in the US is 120V and some older devices won’t handle a 230V supply.
Tap Water
The tap water and river water in Nepal is unsafe to drink so please use bottled water, purification tablets, or boiled water for drinking and brushing your teeth. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Your body requires more at altitude.
Personal Safety
Despite perceptions, Nepal is a relatively safe destination for travellers and there is a low rate of serious crime however you should still take sensible precautions.
Watch out for pick-pockets and bag-snatching, particularly in airports, on buses and in popular tourist areas like Thamel, Sanepa and Kupondol in Kathmandu. Avoid walking on your own and don’t carry or flaunt large sums of cash. Keep valuables in a hotel safe if possible. Behave in Nepal as you would at home, err on the conservative side in terms of dress and behaviour. Be respectful and always let your Guide know if you’re going to venture out and what your plan is. In general, we prefer to travel and stick together as a team.
Vaccinations
Consult your doctor or travel clinic in your home country for updated information on immunizations for Nepal and China. The usual recommended vaccinations are Diphtheria-tetanus, polio, measles, mumps and rubella, meningitis, hepatitis A & B, cholera, typhoid & rabies. Malaria shouldn’t be a problem in Kathmandu or on the climb. If you plan to travel to lower-elevation areas before or after the climb you should consider a malaria chemoprophylaxsis.
First Ascent Advice from Mike Hamill
A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' First Ascent' Expedition from Mike Hamill

It has been our dream (and the dream of many of our climbers) to tackle an unclimbed peak.
In many ways this expedition is the culmination of all that we have learned as Guides and Expedition Leaders over the years and puts all our expertise and skill to the test. As such, this expedition is not for the faint of heart. If you are looking for a tranquil beach vacation or even a standard program on one of the Seven Summits, you may have stumbled upon the wrong expedition page… This is said not to dissuade or intimidate you, but instead to ask for your full buy-in to this amazing adventure.
With no one coming before us, there is no detailed route information or pool of common knowledge to to draw on. Our prior knowledge will be drawn from scouting missions (don’t worry our scout teams won’t tag the top without you!) and satellite images so we must rely on each other to climb as a team.
This is critical and we need to have full reliance and stick together, engaged and motivated towards our common end. Humility, patience and determination are prerequisites on this program.
As we progress we will inevitably need to adapt our plan of attack, our schedule and probably our route multiple times throughout the expedition. This is all part of the joy of discovering the undiscovered and climbing as the pioneers did centuries ago. Not to sound cliche but the ultimate reward on this expedition will be in the journey and not the summit.
My best piece of advice is to remain open minded as the expedition advances. There will be days when it seems achievable and within reach, and days when the summit seems elusive. We will spend much of our time troubleshooting routes to find the safest & best path, navigating the weather and patiently acclimatizing. We’ll be in a remote place without the usual infrastructure or amenities so it’ll be roughing it in parts but truly off the beaten track and wild.
The excitement is that no one knows what will eventuate but keeping positive and in the spirit of adventure will help make sure your expedition and that of your teammates is safe, enjoyable and successful.
All the best,
Mike Hamill
First Ascent Preparation & Prerequisites
Experience Level
The 3 Peaks Expedition is a great intermediate expedition which is well suited to climbers who are fit and have basic mountaineering skills and a good sense of adventure. (It’s ok to be a little rusty on your skill set as we will do a comprehensive refresher as part of your climb with skills clinics at both Lobuche & Everest Base Camp to get you up to speed)
Ideally you are already confident and familiar with your harness, crampon and ice axe techniques and cold management.
If you’re not sure if you have the experience for this climb, please ask us as we can help recommend other training to get prepared for the 3 Peaks Expedition.
Physical Training:
It is important that you are very physically fit and healthy and you can dedicate time to ‘climbing specific training’ in the lead up to your expedition. You will be required to climb up to 8-10hrs per day. Being in top shape will also ensure you enjoy your climb, feel good throughout and get the most out of the experience.
It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. Instead you need to emulate long physical days (8hrs +) in the mountains.
We recommend that you:
- Start specific mountaineering training at least 3 months in advance
- Train at least 5 days a week for an hour or more
- Focus on high volume but low intensity training
- A good goal is to be able to comfortably climb 1,500 vertical ft per hour with 6-8kg, 15lbs day pack
- Schedule a few weekends where you can do two or more full days back to back. Multi day hikes with good elevation are ideal.
Mindset:
Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak.
You should be prepared:
- To be away from home/work for 3 weeks with long periods of being out of range
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow team mates
- Be humble, respectful and considerate even under pressure
First Ascent Helicopter Options
We can arrange a Helicopter from Base camp back to either the domestic airport and possibly Kathmandu at the end of the expedition:
Many of our climbers say that one of the best experiences of their entire expedition is taking a helicopter flight back down the valley and getting an aerial view of the trek and the climb they’ve just achieved. It is, without doubt, one of the most scenic, adventurous mountain flights in the world.
Further, while people initially think they will want to undertake a long, arduous multi-day trek back down the valley, we’ve found that after a long expedition on the mountain, the draw of civilisation, getting back to family and friends & enjoying that well-deserved beer can be irresistible!
Chat to us about what helicopter options are open for your First Ascent
First Ascent Family & Friends
We welcome you to invite friends and family to join you on your First Ascent Expedition
The benefits are:
- The joy of sharing this once in a lifetime experience with your loved ones
- Lessening the time apart
- Puts family at ease as they get a first hand understanding and empathy of the nature of your expedition and goal
First Ascent Trekking Team
$6,995 - $8,995 USD
Family and Friends often love to share your expedition and the Nepal First Ascent expedition is an ideal adventure as it allows your loved ones to not only trek in one of the most beautiful places on earth but explore off the beaten track elements of Nepal. These are seldom seen valleys far from the main thoroughfare full of authentic local culture minus the crowds.
If they are pressed for time, they can elect to just accompany you to Base Camp for 2 nights and then descend back to Kathmandu ($6,995) or they are welcome to stay with us for the entire expedition ($8,995)
If they choose to stay for the entire expedition, the time you are separated is actually quite limited. When you are high on the mountain, they can enjoy the relaxing down time at base camp taking in the majestic Himalaya with some local Chai tea or take up the opportunity to go on lite excursions with our camp staff on their rest days.
We’d be delighted to make it a family or friends adventure! Feel free to extend the invitation!
First Ascent Team Climb
Price: $22,995 USD
Annually; 10th October - 8th November
You will start your trailblazing adventure by meeting in Kathmandu, Nepal. Here we will do thorough gear checks, have team briefings, repack and reorganise our gear for the journey ahead.
Following our time in Kathmandu, we fly domestically as a team to a remote part of Nepal to begin our trek to Base Camp. From the moment you begin the trek, you will be at altitude. It’s essential to take it easy and let your body adjust to the altitude naturally. Altitude isn’t something to be feared; it’s achievable for most people, but it is a process that can’t be rushed. Inexperienced operators and generic expeditions that move too quickly often have disgruntled, unwell people because their bodies are struggling to adjust.
It’s also important to be aware that we will be traveling through more remote regions of Nepal that receive very little, if any, tourism, so expect this to be real adventure travel. That said, you will be awed by the beauty of the landscape and the genuine and friendly Nepali people. You can expect it to be rugged and strenuous at times, but this hard work will pay dividends.
As we acclimatize, we will enjoy spending time absorbing the rich Tibetan culture, passing by countless Tibetan Buddhist stupas and Chortens, and taking in any sightseeing landmarks. We will endeavour to visit a High Lama and receive a traditional blessing for our mountain ahead.
Once at base camp, we will set up our own comfortable home away from home, settle in, plan, and adjust our approach to the peak. We will run through an alpine training and refresher skills clinic while at base camp and go through the various equipment/food caches that we will need for the upper mountain.
We will make a series of forays up the mountain in order to continue our acclimatisation, test our route, and scout for hazards before our summit attempt.
Following your climb, there will be ample time to celebrate while returning down the valley and take in your achievement in this remarkable corner of the world before flying back to Kathmandu and onward home.
Unlike our other expeditions, a solid itinerary isn’t possible for such an unknown and unpredictable climb, and will vary widely as we’ll be setting it as we go! (In any case, we need to keep details as scarce as possible in public forums for obvious reasons.)
We will have a more detailed itinerary for the team in Kathmandu, but you can expect a rough timeline like this:
Rough Itinerary:
- Days 1 - 3: Team Arrives, Gear Checks, Team Briefings
- Days 4 - 12: Journey & Trek to Base Camp
- Days 13 - 15: Acclimatization & Training
- Days 15 - 22: Climbing Rotations & Summit
- Days 23 - 26: Descend and Return to Kathmandu
- Days 26 - 29: Contingency Days
- Day 30: Fly Home
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list so you know what to expect
Included in the First Ascent Expedition:
- Leadership, strategy, and climbing oversight, including full support for a summit attempt
- A climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Climbing permits for an unclimbed peak in Nepal
- Training and skills refresher clinics
- Domestic flights internally to and from the mountain region
- In-country transportation associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Lodging in Nepal, including hotels in Kathmandu, teahouses, and mountain camps
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Access to medical and communications gear
- Mountain camp infrastructure and logistics, including tents
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the First Ascent Expedition:
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport,
- Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries, etc
- Personal sundries including but not limited to: non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees
- Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
- Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs
- Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
- Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that, while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition, including contingency days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
City Tours & Nepal Extensions
Nepal is one of the world’s most popular destinations. With incredible landscapes and rich culture, once there, it is truly worth seeing as much of the country as you can. We can seamlessly organize a variety of fantastic customised excursions and extensions for you, either prior to or after your expedition.
Contact us for any requests you have, so we can plan them seamlessly for you.
Pre-Trip Full Day Kathmandu Cultural Tour
$250 per person
Kathmandu is one of the most exciting, culturally rich cities in the world. Unique and overflowing with sights, smells, sounds, and tastes, it’s both chaotic and charming. It is a city of true contrast that needs to be experienced to be understood. During our Kathmandu Cultural Tour, an English-speaking guide will show you the best history and culture the city has to offer.
Paragliding in Pokhara (Annapurna Region)
Take in the spectacular views of the Himalayas while paragliding over Lake Pokhara. Nepal offers some of the best flying in the world, with low-lying valleys, high, cold mountains, and natural rising thermals that you can share with the hawks! You can fly with world-class pilots in tandem or stay longer and benefit from their wealth of experience, and you can get your international license in Nepal. Spend a few days at the Lake and truly unwind with a change of scenery.
Trek the Annapurna Circuit or Sanctuary Walk
On a mission to tick off the best treks in the world? Why not take advantage of your fitness and experience the Annapurna region with either the Sanctuary Walk (slightly shorter and slightly lower altitude) or the Annapurna Circuit (slightly longer and crosses the 5,416m Thorong La pass into the Mustang region).
Jungle Safari in Chitwan National Park
One of Nepal’s greatest drawcards, Chitwan National Park is a World Heritage Site that protects 932 sq km of forest and grasslands. It is arguably the best place in Asia to view wild game, including horned rhinos, monkeys, deer, and over 500 species of bear. If you are lucky, you may even spot a leopard, sloth, elephant, or even the elusive Bengal tiger!
Visit the Upper Mustang
Trekking in the Upper Mustang is a very rare privilege, and it has only been open to non-Nepali for just over 15 years. Here, you will experience the way of life of true mountain people, who for hundreds of years had very little contact with the rest of Nepal and retained their rich cultural heritage. In many ways, visiting the Upper Mustang is similar to Tibet, as geographically, it is part of the Tibetan plateau.
Single Rooming Upgrade
Single Rooming Option
We are happy to organize single rooming accommodation in Kathmandu and a tea house upgrades/single tents on the approach for you (where available).
If you snore or are easily awakened by others that do snore, this might be a great option. We feel that having a single room/tent helps climbers stay healthy and adds a bit of comfort and personal space that can go a long way on a long expedition like a First Ascent.
If you would like a single rooming option please let us know.
Please note that tent accommodation above Base Camp is double-occupancy for warmth and safety.