...Camp 3 Rotation complete...
Sorry for the delay with the blog, internet at Everest base camp can be hit or miss! The entire team just arrived back to Everest Base Camp after an incredibly successful Camp 3 rotation. After pushing through some marginal weather at the start of the trip they were treated to clear skies and stunning views during the latter half. Yesterday they pushed to their high point at Camp 3 in the best weather yet. The views down the Western Cwm and towards the summit of Cho Oyu are unparalleled.
I cannot give enough praise about how this team is preforming thus far. They are making exceptional time from camp to camp and everyone is staying healthy, climbing safely and feeling strong.
Now it is just a waiting game. The team will spend several rest days here at base camp recovering, taking hot showers and putting some meat back on their bones as such.
Although the skies are clear, high winds are predicted for summit altitudes for the next 5 days at least. This means that our Sherpa team can’t get to high camp to stock the camp with tents and oxygen, although a few may be able to sneak up tomorrow during a lull. Once the winds subside, a cooperative team of Sherpa will fix line to the summit and we will start looking at summit days. Until then, lots of R+R, movies, and food!
Mike Hamill
CTSS Owner
...Second Rotation.. Camp 2...
The team made their way to Camp 1 yesterday morning, beginning their final acclimatization rotation before returning to base camp to rest in anticipation of the summit. The morning was cold and windy and the night was punctuated by small rockfalls and avalanches off Lintgren and Lo La, not in danger of the route. Soon temps warmed as the crew reached C1 and the sun hit camp. Everyone made impressive time though the ice fall which bodes well for their stated goal of tagging camp 3 on this rotation.
Today the team woke with the sun and proceeded up the famed Western Cwm, over the imposing "ice wall" feature, and on to Camp two. The accommodations at camp 2 are rustic no doubt, but much more hospitable than C1. We have two full time cooks on staff at Camp 2 (imagine spending a month cooking at nearly 22,000 ft/6,500m, roughly 7,000ft/2,000m higher than the summit of Mont Blanc in Europe), a dining tent with chairs, and a tent toilet. Camp 2 acts as our Advanced base camp from which we tackle the upper mountain. On a dry year several years ago I was lucky enough to find a '75 Bonington oxygen bottle melting out in the morraine not far from this camp.
The team will likely take a rest day tomorrow before heading up the lower slopes of the Lhotse Face to C3 the following day, weather permitting. From there they descend to relax in the relative comfort of C2 for a night before heading back to base camp for more for Kumar's fine cooking and a hot shower.
All is well with the team at C2.
...Puja Time...
A very auspicious day for us here at Everest base camp with our "Puja" (blessing ceremony) taking place. Several high lama's traveled great distances to come to camp to bless our expedition before we tackle the upper mountain. A Puja is a Tibetan Buddhist ritual that is part of Sherpa life, the purpose of which is to ask the mountain deity for safe passage and of course to celebrate. For our CTSS Puja, the Sherpa chose a full moon and according to the Tibetan calendar, the day Buddha began teaching. A special day indeed.
Those of us that have participated in many Puja's were in agreement that this was the best one we've ever been fortunate enough to be part of. Many climbers form all over camp came to join us in this celebration and the lamas chanted and blessed for several hours and of course there was lots of good food and drink on offer! It was a great chance for us to socialize and celebrate with each other, Sherpa and non-Sherpa alike and solidify our bonds before heading higher.
We concluded with a traditional Sherpa dance, locking arms and forming a semi circle in front of the Puja alter. We 'Mikaru' (or 'foreigner' which roughly translates to 'white eyes') tried to emulate the Sherpa as best we could!
The culmination of the ceremony is raising the Puja pole in the center of the alter and stringing prayer flags over our camp, building a zone of protection for the team. When the flags blow in the wind it is thought by the Sherpa that they send out prayers. This has become a common part of any Everest and Lhotse expedition and the Sherpa, who draw no distinction between their daily lives and their Tibetan Buddhism, appreciate and welcome us in this ritual.
Today we are resting and packing for our second rotation. The Sherpa team carried another heavy load to Camp two and are setting up for our arrival into camp as I write. The climbers will wake up early in the morning and start their ascent to camp 1 in the dark for their second rotation. They plan to spend several nights at camp 2, from here heading up the Lhotse face to touch camp 3. This long rotation will put them in perfect position for the forthcoming summit bid.
All best from EBC,
Mike Hamill
CTSS Owner
CTSS Everest & Lhotse Team ready to climb.
…Rest Day in Food Heaven…
Not too much to report when it’s a full rest day down here at EBC and we are likely to enjoy the same relaxed indulgence tomorrow. Perhaps a hike up to Pumori Camp 1 to get the legs moving.
Our entire team is back together with our Lhotse climber finishing his first rotation this morning and coming back safely through the Khumbu icefall to rest.
We’re busy watching the weather, taking hot showers, oh and EATING!
What else should one do on a rest day but EAT? Kumar has us covered and no kidding the meal plan for that last few days has been:
- Real Bread Crumbed Chicken Cordon Bleu with Fresh Ham and Cheese, Potato Croquets & Fresh Vegetables
- Cheesy Potato Bake, Spaghetti Bolognese & Vegetables
- Freshly Baked Cinnamon Rolls, Croissants, Omelets and Breakfast Sausage
- The Best Cake (seriously it’s up there with the best we’ve all ever eaten, we can’t even describe it – except it was the perfect mix of light, moist, fluffy and sweet)
- Loads of fresh fruit including Pomegranate, Nashi Pear & Green Grapes!
Surely Kumar’s cooking makes up for the dehydrated meals that are a necessity up high on the hill. Zac’s favorite – Cheesy Enchiladas that may or may not have turned into slop (It sounded better on the packet apparently) It’s always a bit luck of the draw once you’ve poured that hot water in as to how they turn out – I think Clint won that round with a delicious rehydrated Chicken Pad Thai! What do you think?
Good food is one of our secrets to success up high. Nutrition and eating healthy, hearty meals down here at Base Camp is key. At altitude the human body actually struggles to digest in the same way it does at sea level and when it doesn’t have enough fuel, the body tends to metabolize muscle before fat up here. The answer to staying healthy and energized - plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, protein and carbohydrates served in a really palatable way so you feel satiated all the time and you want to eat.
We also bring some familiar foods from home to supplement as sometimes it’s easier to eat more of what you know and like. The Sweet Baby Rays and real Maple Syrup are taking a hiding!
Yesterday was ANZAC Day in Australia & NZ (A national day of remembrance that commemorates and honors all Australians and New Zealanders who have served and died in all wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping operations) and a treasured packet of Tim Tams (the world’s best chocky bickie in Aussie slang) appeared from some kind Aussie friends down the valley and were quickly devoured!
We’ve got good food and lots of it... Signing off with happy, albiet full bellies! CTSS Team
...1st Rotation Done, Time for Rest...
Our whole Everest team is safely back down in Base Camp, enjoying the creature comforts of home - full bellies (Kumar baked fresh croissants today!) warm comfy beds and richer oxygen levels.
They spent two full nights at Camp 1 and successfully tagged Camp 2 yesterday moving through the Western CWM. Alex came back in wonder of the views, that are " a sight that has to be seen to be believed, photos don't do it justice, it's absolutely, breathtakingly beautiful - and to be surrounded by such giants, makes you feel so small, the endless white really gives you that innate realization that you are up at high altitude"
Photo Clint Kugler
Everyone reports sleeping well and eating heartily - in fact I think they want to pack more food for the next rotation - all good signs of acclimatization.
The mountain is definitely alive with the glacier a living, breathing, moving entity. Everest isn't to be underestimated and smart, safe decision making and conservative climbing is always the first priority for us at CTSS.
Our Lhotse climber went up yesterday and will spend his second night at Camp 1 tonight after tagging Camp 2 today. We expect him back at EBC tomorrow morning.
Zac Steps Nice & Steady... Video Clint Kugler
This first rotation is vital in the team's acclimatization and to see everyone moving so strongly and competently bodes well. This is the first of three rotations on the mountain, the next one will be longer and reach Camp 3.
The forecast was completely accurate and we are glad the team moved when they did before a small storm cycle sets in with light snows and colder temps through to the 30th so plenty of time to rest and recover over the next few days.
...Catching Zzzz at Camp 1...
The team have banked some solid ZZZzzz's up at Camp 1 (approx 5,944m | 19,501ft) They had dinner in the last of the warm sun and then settled down for a nice 14 hours of tent time. Needless to say they are super ready to get the legs moving today with a push up to tag Camp 2 (approx 6,462m |21,201ft) where they will spend a few hours before descending back to Camp 1. It can be pretty hot in the Western CWM, although it's always nice to defrost a little after a chilly night. Plenty of sunscreen and zinc required!
The weather is still holding although we expect some snow later this afternoon, by then the team will be wrapped up in their sleeping bags for a second night of acclimatization before they descend for a dose of denser Os here at Base Camp in coming days.
Our Lhotse climber has also moved up successfully through the icefall this morning for his first acclimatization rotation and made great time.
CTSS Team
A glimpse at Camp 1
Walking through the Western CWM.
...Moving Up & Out...
The whole team headed uphill for their first Everest rotation yesterday. Eager to get going, everyone was strong, feeling healthy and the route is the best it has been. They left early in the morning around 4am after a small Puja led by Tendi on their way out of Base Camp and made it to Camp 1 in around 5 hours.
While they already have a Lobuche summit under their belt (which in effect is a first rotation) they are continuing their acclimatization by sleeping up high for a night or two and cutting their teeth on the big E.
The plan is to sleep at Camp 1, tag Camp 2 on a day hike, return to Camp 1 for a second night before descending.
Here's an insight into what it's like to be in the icefall and doing crevasse ladder crossings - I'm sure the team are thankful for all the practice and refreshers.
CTSS Team
...Ready for a Rotation...
Our whole team is together! Our Lhotse climber has finished his trek up the valley and has joined us at Base Camp. He slept well and is well adjusted to the altitude already. It's good to have the whole team together.
Today we are readying the Everest team for a first rotation up to Camp 1 to take advantage of a clear weather window before some precipitation is due. The Sherpa team have already fully stocked the higher camps and did another carry load up to Camp 2 this morning. The icefall is in good condition this year with Sherpa quoted as saying the Icefall Doctors have put in one of the safest routes compared to previous seasons. (The Icefall Doctors are camped right next to CTSS and are a team of 8 highly experienced Sherpa who open the route through the Khumbu icefall each year using ropes and aluminium ladders to bridge any crevasses and allow climbers to tackle the vertical sections. They monitor and maintain the route throughout the whole season and are integral to the success of any Everest climber and we're appreciative of their hard work and dedication to safety)
After a few days training and rest at Base Camp the team is eager to move higher and put those skills they've been honing into action and get the legs moving. They will aim for a night or two acclimatizing at Camp 1. Of course we'll be keeping an eagle eye on the weather at all times.
Yesterday Casey had the team practicing on the aluminium ladders in camp so that everyone feels comfortable not only crossing the crevasses on them but they know how to kneel down and release a crampon should one get stuck. Moving confidently over the ladders means the team will move quickly and avoid adding to any traffic jams.
The skies have been cobalt blue every morning, and we've been having breakfast outside every morning. Life's sweet up here at CTSS EBC.
CTSS Team
...Training, Training, Training…
Practice makes perfect so today we’ve been doing drills in the lower part of the icefall. Going over both lower angle and steep fixed line work as well as repelling and descending via an arm wrap and back up. Things that might feel easy down here in a relaxed (and relatively oxygen rich) environment at Base Camp can quickly start to feel more complicated up high in heavy gloves or mittens so it’s important to get everything dialled in so that skills becomes second nature and climbers fall into good habits that feel effortless.
It was toasty warm out there in the sun so the team have been rocking a new look – base layers & t-shirts paired with triple boots and down mittens!
Sadly we waved goodbye to our trekking support team who are heading off back down the valley. They’ll hit Pheriche today, followed by Namche and then Lukla before flying back to Kathmandu. The impact of support can never be underestimated and having family and friends share part of the journey by trekking into EBC has been incredible. We’ll miss them dearly as the next chapter begins.
CTSS Team
….Lobuche Summits! and....
We’re HERE at Everest Base Camp!
We apologize that it’s been a good few days since our last update - rest assured no news is most often good news. We’ve simply been living our adventure beyond the reaches of cell reception or wifi on Lobuche peak.
After a great few days training at Lobuche base camp (approx 4,950m |16,200ft ) and acclimatizing at Lobuche high camp (approx 5400m |17,700ft ) we’re all feeling adjusted and great. Sleeping like babies and eating like royalty.
We are proud to announce that everyone who climbed Lobuche reached the summit in record time! (6119m | 20,075ft ) I think they even gave guides Tendi, Casey + Mike a good stretch of the legs at the pace they were all moving. This team is proving themselves stronger and stronger with each day. Lobuche is a great test for Everest and everyone passed with flying colors. It showed they have strong technical climbing skills that are being concreted down more and more with every training session. They are acclimatizing well and are fighting fit. We’ve had an amazing run with the weather and we’ve all pinched ourselves at the truly spectacular outlooks over the Himalaya every morning. Not to mention the incredible nights’ sky blanketed in countless stars framed by the silhouettes of the mountains.
The Team Move Across the Ridge - Photo Mike Hamill
We are now all settled into Everest Base Camp having arrived yesterday afternoon after a hearty 5 hour hike. I think everyone is happy to be settling into our home away from home. We are eagerly awaiting the arrival of our final Lhotse climber who is just a few days behind coming up the valley.
We’ve made sure camp is comfortable this year, with plenty of attention to detail in our CTSS set up. We have a carpeted, heated, custom made dining tent with a separate washroom so everyone can wash their hands before coming inside, a full catering kitchen (literally we have 3 stainless steel kitchen benches, a 3gas burner stove, sinks, and a full oven! Fresh bread everyday!) The kitchen is staffed by chefs who have been trained at 5 star restaurants and who have been fuelling us with the best meals we’ve had since we’ve been in Nepal. Lunch today was burgers on freshly baked buns with potato salad and fresh steamed broccoli!
The state of the art Communications Tent is set up, with a brand new radio base station to keep in touch with our teams as they move up the mountain, a carpeted Hang Out Tent with blow up couches perfect for movie nights on the projector. Each member has their own tent with a full mattress and pillow, insulation flooring and as many hot showers as they want! Not to mention a western style WC with a washroom to keep everything hygienic. So if they report home that they’re roughing it, you can give them a little grief!
We really believe that happy, well rested, healthy climbers have the best shot at the summit and sometimes the little luxuries of home, and the extra mile when it comes to hygiene, can make all the difference.
Today is a full rest day, with everyone showering, doing laundry, catching some sun and keeping up with the news from home. Meanwhile the leadership team has been busy consulting the forecasts, chatting to the Sherpa teams who have already been doing carrying loads, fine tuning the radio set up and planning out the schedule in more detail.
Catch up with you all soon, CTSS team.