Carstensz Pyramid (Helicopter in and out)Difficulty Level: Intermediate to Advanced
It is often argued as to which mountain is the true Seventh Summit: Carstensz or Kosciuszko? To that I answer, “It doesn’t matter! They are both beautiful and unique adventures in their own right so why not do them both?” In fact, it seems that many people are concluding just that and climbing both peaks.
Carstensz Pyramid is one of the world’s great adventures. Few people have the opportunity to go to such an exotic location as Irian Jaya. The fact that Carstensz is a stunning climb and one of the Seven Summits is just the icing on the cake. If you are looking for a true adventure and world-class rock climbing then look no further then Carstensz Pyramid. One of the most attractive features of the Seven Summits is that to climb them you are forced to travel the world and experience cultures you would otherwise miss. This isn’t more true for any peak than Carstensz Pyramid.
- End your expedition by meeting up with friend and family in Bali, Indonesia, a world-famous beach resort island that we usually fly through both on the way in and out of our climb
- Climb a classic rock route and brave the airy cable bridge traverse en route to the summit of Carstensz
- See a part of the world on the remote island of New Guinea that few people have seen
- Fly in a helicopter over the lush rain forest and mountains of the Sudirman Range from our start point in Timika en route to Carstensz base camp
Deep in the heart of the Sudirman Range in the western central highlands of Irian Jaya lies Carstensz Pyramid. Irian Jaya comprises the western side of the island of New Guinea; the eastern part is Papua New Guinea. Irian Jaya (formerly West New Guinea od Dutch New Guinea) is part of Indonesia, a large collection of islands in the southern Southeast Asia, northeast of Australia. The bare, rocky, and near-vertical slopes of Carstensz Pyramid rise above the lush jungle environment and small settlements that characterize the moderately large island of New Guinea. Carstensz Pyramid is also known as Puncak Jaya by Indonesians.
Carstensz looms over the smaller peaks in the mountain range at a height of 16,024 feet (4884m). The mountain is part of the Lorentz National Forest, the largest protected area is Southeast Asia. It is surrounded to the south by settlements belonging to several native Indonesian tribes, including the Dani. These people live mainly in simple structures and maintain a more primitive way of life than any culture experienced on the other Seven Summits. The local culture is part of what makes a climb of Carstensz Pyramid such a unique and adventurous experience.
Carstensz is one of the least climbed of the Seven Summits because of its logistical challenges, the prohibitive expense required, and its dubious status on the Seven Summits list, although more climbers are beginning to attempt the peak as awareness of the mountain and region grow. Carstensz is a very remote mountain that lies in an exotic, undeveloped region of the world.
This expedition will be organized by Mike Hamill, Owner of Climbing the Seven Summits. Mike has personally guided nearly well over 100 high altitude expeditions, 10 Mt. Everest expeditions, 23 X 8,000m expeditions, has 6 Everest summits, currently holds the record for most non-Sherpa summits of Cho Oyu, and has written the guide book to “Climbing the Seven Summits,” making him one of the most experienced guides in the world.
Mike has an impeccable safety record and an unmatched success rate due to his expertise and professionalism and holds all of the CTSS guides to the same high standards as he holds himself. He knows that his choice of guides is the most important decision factor to continued success so CTSS only employs world-class leaders known for their coal face experience, focus on client care and attention to safety.
Welcome to CTSS’s Carstensz Pyramid Expedition!
Climbing Carstensz Pyramid is truly a once in a lifetime opportunity. This is your chance to get way off the beaten path and see a remote part of Southeast Asia that few have seen while having an incredible adventure. It just also happens to be one of the Seven Summits too!
Come join our world class guide team on one of the world’s most sought after peaks. You will not be disappointed by the experience. Because of the remoteness and logistical challenges involved with this climb we only offer one departure per year so spaces are limited and they tend to go quickly.
We have chosen to fly both in and out of the mountain for many reason, the main one being safety. We feel that the risks associated with trekking in to base camp are too great and out of our comfort zone and that it is impossible for us to mitigate them. Once you experience the helicopter service and the amenities that we provide on our Carstensz climb you will be pleased you decided to climb Carstensz the right way- focusing on climbing rather than jungle mud-slogging!
We have been fine-tuning our Carstensz logistics for many years and I literally wrote the book on the Seven Summits. We employ a slow acclimatization schedule to make sure that you are properly adjusted to the rarefied air and have the best chance of success. Come join us for this amazing, life changing experience- one that you will one-day tell your grandkids about.
We look forward to helping you achieve success on Carstensz Pyramid. Please don’t hesitate to contact me directly regarding the expedition if you have any further questions.
Best regards,
Mike Hamill
Owner and Lead Guide, Climbing the Seven Summits
Expedition Options (Schedule and Prices)
Carstensz Pyramid Team Guided Climb
4th (Meet in Timika) – 14th September 2021:
$24,995 USD
This is our most popular option. This expedition is our traditional guided team climb which ascends the stunning normal ascent route on Carstensz. Provided are guidance, leadership, and expedition oversight by renowned expedition leader Mike Hamill, local guides, logistics, team gear, food, and support for a summit attempt on Carstensz.
All prices are in US Dollars.
CTSS requires clients to buy trip insurance for all expeditions. Please see our page on trip insurance and cancellation policy for more information.
All payments once submitted are non-refundable and non-transferable. If balances are not received by specified dates, the client forfeits their place on the program and any prior fees paid.
Please Note:
- You will want to check with you embassy to understand the visa requirement for your country for Indonesia.
- You will require two passport photos and a copy of your passport for travel in Papua.
- Passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your entry into Indonesia and have 4 free pages
Custom Dates – Contact Us for Pricing
Having your own private guide climbing with you can be an indispensable advantage! A private guide allows you to dictate the schedule, amend it depending on how you’re feeling, customize a program, and a private guide can coach you throughout the expedition, give you valuable feedback, be available if there are any medical issues, and make your climbing experience more enjoyable overall. Although summits are obviously never guaranteed this is a great way to stack the odds in your favor.
Please Note:
CTSS requires clients to buy trip insurance for all expeditions. Please see our page on trip insurance and cancellation policy for more information.
All payments once submitted are non-refundable and non-transferable. If balances are not received by specified dates, the client forfeits their place on the program and any prior fees paid.
All prices are in US Dollars.
CTSS requires clients to buy trip insurance for all expeditions. For more information, please see our page on trip insurance and cancellation policy.
All payments, once submitted, are non-refundable and non-transferable. If balances are not received by specified dates, the client forfeits their place on the program and any prior fees paid.
- Best expedition at a great value: CTSS believes in providing our clients with the highest quality service in the industry at a great value. Climbing and trekking is our passion, and our goal is to share these unique places and experiences with you. We want you to feel good about your experience because we believe word-of-mouth is the best advertising, and that begins with satisfied customers. There is a difference between our expeditions and those of our competitors, especially local cut-rate options. In choosing us, you are hiring the finest guides and logistical support in the industry. Benefiting from well over 100 high altitude expeditions, and drawing on decades of first-hand guiding experience, we have worked hard to refine our logistics in order to offer you the highest chance of success at an exceptional value.
- We are a modestly sized guide service with highly personalized service: We maintain a moderate size so that we can tailor our Carstensz Pyramid experience to you. Not all climbers are the same, which is why Mike Hamill will work with you directly to make sure you choose only the programs that are right for you.
- The best route: CTSS climbs Carstensz by the beautiful normal route. By using this route, we provide you with the highest chance of success and give you the best climbing experience available on the mountain. We also provide you will more than ample time to acclimatize to the altitude so you feel good on summit day. Many climbing companies, especially local ones, race you up and down the mountain not allowing time to get used to the rarefied air. This is not only not advantageous to you but it is dangerous. We also fly you both in and out of the mountain in a helicopter. It is dangerous and incredibly time to consume to take the trekking approach and takes the focus off the climbing route and summit. Using the helicopter is a huge advantage that improves safety, success and fun- are our three main objectives. You will see when you’re on the mountain that there’s no better way to climb the peak than the way we have organized it.
- Leadership: As the expedition organizer, Mike’s almost unparalleled experience base at high altitude can make the difference between success and failure. From start to finish, he will work with you to make sure you’re as prepared as possible to reach your goal of standing on top of Oceania. Often being able to troubleshoot problems before they occur can make all the difference and this is where Mike’s vast experience becomes crucial. Please visit our Success Rates page for more information.
- The Seven Summits specialist! Climbing the Seven Summits is THE Seven Summits specialist. We focus primarily on the mountains of the Seven Summits, and Carstensz is one of our signature climbs. With hundreds of high altitude expeditions under our belts, we are well prepared to create the perfect climbing experience for you. We love the diversity of the “Seven Summits,” and the challenge of climbing them all which is why we focus on these climbs in particular.
- Best guides: The quality of an expedition is, in large part, dictated by the individual guide(s) leading the trip. CTSS hires only the finest guides operating at the highest standards for client care who are highly trained, well respected in the industry, and close friends that we trust. They have excellent personalities and are some of the most experienced professionals in the world. Mike and the rest of our guides are strong leaders who maintain high standards. Our guides make our company what it is and have extensive resumes of personal climbs, high altitude guiding, and certifications. All our lead guides maintain at least a Wilderness First Responder medical standard or equivalent. Our local guides around the world are the best in the industry and do an amazing job helping you attain your goals and navigating local obstacles.
- Safety: Our primary goal at CTSS is safety. We have an unparalleled safety record and our clientele’s well-being factors into every decision we make while on expeditions. Although we like to stand on the top of mountains more than anyone, we believe that climbing is a round trip endeavour and getting you back to your loved ones safely is paramount. We take many safety precautions including bringing multiple communication devices, high altitude safety equipment, medical kits, and the highest quality gear to ensure a safe environment in which to climb.
- Success: Success rates on expeditions under Mike’s leadership are among the best in the business. Mike has maintained a 91% expedition success rate for expeditions under his direct guidance. This is a testament to our quality of service and attention to detail. Mike and our team of guides are incredibly proud of their summit success and work hard to get their clients to the top. As Mike says, “You can’t buy a summit, but you can buy better odds.” With our expertise, experience and infrastructure, you can stack those odds in your favor. We offer a longer acclimatization progression for proper acclimatization to mitigate the risks of altitude sickness. Many guide services race their clients up the mountain, especially local companies, to cut corners on costs. We are highly invested in our reputation for safety and success and are always striving to improve our programs to maintain our hard-earned status. Decision making in the mountains is supremely important, and our guides are the best in the business, have a hunger to summit whenever it’s safe to do so, and have a proven track record. All of our programs acclimatize conservatively to mitigate the risk of having altitude issues and to give them the highest chance of success.
- You!: Why choose us? Because of you! We consistently attract the best clients and believe this is because we offer the highest quality expedition at a great value. Our clientele takes the time to educate themselves about their options and choose us because of this. We feel that surrounding yourself with the right people will make you successful, and that goes for guide service owners, guides, and even those with whom you climb. Having a team with the right attitude and camaraderie is a key factor in making you successful.
- Logistics: We have led countless high altitude expeditions and have perfected the logistics, allowing you to focus on climbing, safety and success. We eat well and live well on expedition. We want you to feel as comfortable as possible while on your climb or safari to not be distracted from the task at hand. We feel that these creature-comforts go a long way to making your time in the backcountry enjoyable. We strive to work with the best local outfitters and provide the best local logistics hands down.
- Updates: In today’s connected world people want to know how things are going on the expedition. CTSS maintains regular updates on our blog to keep friends and families informed. This can relieve a lot of the stress loved ones have when you’re away on climbing. We want to make the climb as stress-free for both the climber and the folks back home.
- Professional Business Practices: Running a professional guide service that you feel comfortable putting your trust in, is important to us. We comply with all local, state, federal and international laws. We hope that this makes you feel more confident about choosing us and our programs.
- Enjoyment: This is your vacation, and you’re here to have a good time. Our goal is to give you the experience of a lifetime, inspire you in the mountains, and to have a great time doing it. This, again, comes back to our guides; they all have great personalities, and their love for the mountain is contagious.
- Low client to guide ratio: We operate all of our trips at a low client to guide ratio which offers you a better, safer, and more personalized experience.
“Great leaders like Mike inspire and lead people to take on challenges and achieve great things.” -Tim Igo
- Carstensz Pyramid sits in Irian Jaya, which is part of Indonesia
- Carstensz Pyramid entails the most consistently steep and technical climbing of all the Seven Summits
- Some native tribes in Papua still practice cannibalism
- Patrick Morrow was the first person to finish the Seven Summits with the Carstensz variation
- The Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz saw the mountain in 1623
The climbing on Carstensz consists mainly of steep rock climbing. From base camp the route winds its way up a series of gulleys following fixed lines to the top of a ridge. The climbing is fun and positive with great friction even when it’s raining, albeit somewhat steep and exposed in sections. The steepest steps consist of moderate 5th class climbing on fixed lines. Leather gloves are highly recommended due to the extremely rough texture of the rock.
Once on the ridge the route traverses the ridge and undulates up and down following the path of least resistance. After crossing the famous cable bridge it’s a short scramble to the summit. The descent consists mainly of rappelling on steep fixed lines reversing course from the ascent.
Climbing Carstensz requires serious fitness, an ability to perform well at altitude, the mindset to be away from home for several weeks, and a desire for rugged adventure travel. The Sudirman Range is still a very remote and rugged place with few of the amenities we have come to expect. We try to give our climbers all of the creature comforts that we can but at the end of the day this is true adventure travel!
Climbers need to have experience rock climbing and using fixedlines and ascenders. Also, cramponing skill, knowledge of self-arrest technique and ice axe use are valuable but not a pre-requisite. If you want to join this expedition but don’t have these skills we can work with you to get you up to speed prior to the climb. Please let us know how we can help!
Day 1: Meet in Timika, Irian Jaya, Indonesia: Many of you will have been traveling for a long time to reach Timika. If the team feels up to it we will meet for an informal dinner before turning in for the night.
Day 2: Gear checks and team meeting: We will meet at breakfast and set a plan for the day. We will organize a team meeting that will get everyone up to speed on the details of the trip before diving into gear checks. Once gear checks are done we will have free time to get any last-minute supplies. We will have a team dinner before heading to bed early.
Day 3: Fly to Carstensz base camp: We will transfer to the airport in the morning for our helicopter ride to base camp, weather permitting. It’s about a 45 minute ride to base camp. Once there, we will set up camp and have time to relax and acclimatize.
Day 4: Acclimatization day: We spend today getting used to the altitude and acclimatizing with a short hike around base camp.
Day 5: Acclimatization day: Again, we spend the day acclimatizing in and around base camp to make sure our bodies are used to the altitude before heading higher. Since the following day is our first potential summit day we will spend most of the day training, discussing the climb, and packing for the climb before heading to bed early.
Day 6: Summit day!: Weather permitting, we climb Carstensz, and return to base camp.
Day 7: Fly to Timika: Weather permitting, we return to Timika on the helicopter and have a celebration dinner before heading on our separate ways the following day.
Day 8: Fly to Bali: Weather permitting, we begin our flights home, generally through either Bali or Jakarta.
Day 9 – 11: Contingency days: Since the weather is such a huge factor in most Carstensz climbs we need to factor in several extra contingency days.
Note: Weather is a huge factor in this expedition! Teams have waited for weeks to get in and out of base camp and some teams haven’t even made it in. This is a real possibility. EXPECT weather delays and if there aren’t any then that will be the exception, not the rule. We will do our best to get you in and out on time but this likely won’t happen. This is true adventure travel so you need to relax, roll with the punches, bring a good book and music, and expect delays.
Note: We highly recommend you make your return flight for several days after the final departure date as we can get delayed and want to have plenty of time to climb the mountain before needing to change your flight. We plan to move our flights forward at the end of the climb when we know for sure when we are getting off the mountain.
This detailed gear list is provided for your reference. Please follow these guidelines carefully because if you arrive in Indonesia missing gear you will be required to track them down prior to the climb at your own expense which can be difficult (if not impossible) and costly. Please make sure you are fully prepared so that your trip and that of your teammates goes smoothly. If you have any questions about the gear, please give us a call, and we can discuss: we’re here to help! Note: There are strict weight limitations for the helicopter flight so bring only what you need and not more. That being said, if you are unsure about items you can bring them to Timika for the gear check and make the final decision there. You can leave some stuff in a duffel at the hotel in Timika.
- Water treatment (Iodine tabs, Chlorine tabs, or water filtration system)
- Ear plugs (for sleeping in the hut)
- Camera or phone camera
- 1 Ski/winter hat
- 1 Ball cap for sun protection
- 1 Balaclava/face mask (must cover your whole face (all exposed skin)
- 2 Buffs
- 1 Pair liner gloves
- 2 pairs of thick leather gloves
- 1 Pair heavy ski gloves
- 1 Pair heavy mitts
- 1 Pair dark goggles
- 1 Sleeping bag, rated to -10F
- 1 Thermarest
- 1 Closed cell foam mattress
- Hiking shoes or light hiking boots
- Climbing boots: a single layer insulated technical climbing boot that has a ¾ shank with some flex in the sole to be nimble on rock. Carstensz gets a lot of rai so they must be waterproof
- 1 Pair of medium weight long john pants
- 1 Pairs of light trekking pants
- 1 Pair of trekking shorts
- $1,000 travel expense money (includes the $200 usd local staff tip pool)
- 1 Pair medium weight climbing pants
- 1 Pair goretex water proof pants, must have a full side zip
- 1 Goretex waterproof jacket
- Pack Cover
- 1 Pair insulated pants, must have a full side zip
- Town clothes for restaurants
- 2 Pairs trekking socks and 3 pairs of climbing socks
- 3 Pair climbing underwear
- 1 Pair steel crampons (we likely won’t use these but in the case of snow we may)
- Heavy gaiters that fit boots
- 2 Long john tops (1 light, 1 medium) Synthetic Sun hoodie or trekking shirt, long sleeve
- Mid weight upper body insulation layer like a heavy fleece
- Mid-weight synthetic jacket with a front zip and hood
- Mid to heavy weight down parka with hood
- Personal toiletries
- Sunscreen and lip balm
- Book/kindle
- Baby wipes, for staying clean on the mountain
- Small med kit
- Prescription Meds, in consultation with your doctor: (Acetazolamide 125mg x 14 tablets, Dexamethasone 4mg x 4 tablets, Nifedipine 30 mg slow-release x 2 tablets)
- Toilet paper (2 rolls)
- Pee bottle (1 liter bottle with wide mouth) pee funnel for women
- 5 trash bags (for waterproofing duffels and backpack)
- 2 X 1 liter Nalgene water bottles with full insulated covers
- Day Summit pack (optional, also doubles as a carry on, 45- 65L)
- 2 Large duffels, water proof PVC rugged construction
- Travel wallet with passport and cash and pen
- Light climbing harness
- Helmet
- Hand warmers
- Bug spray
- Contacts or prescription glasses/sunglasses/goggles
- 3 double length slings
- 5 Locking carabiners and 5 non-locking carabiners
- Ascender
- 30ft or 7mm cordelette
- Rappel device
- 1 Light headlamp with extra batteries
- 2 Pairs glacier glasses (one spare)
- Collapsible ski poles
- 1 Long alpine length ice axe
- 3 Stuff sacks and 2 compression sacks for packing gear
- Print out of team emails to bring with you
- Hand sanitizer (small container)
- 5 lbs personal snack food and drink mix
- Cup, bowl, spoon
- Mud boots (like Wellingtons) for hiking around camp
- A big rain poncho
- An umbrella
Thanks for your interest in our expeditions. We're looking forward to climbing with you!
To apply for our expeditions, please contact us to send you an application packet.
Steps:
1. Fill in the application form (you can fill it out digitally or print and scan) and email it back to us at: info@climbingthesevensummits.com
2. Pay your 25% deposit (wire transfers are preferred and the details are on the application form. Credit cards attract a merchant surcharge)
3. Upon receiving your application and your deposit, and accepting you onto the trip, we will then issue you an invoice reflecting that and your balance amount and due date
4. Please send us the remainder of the forms to info@climbingthesevensummits.com which are due 4 months of departure along with your balance.
5. At the same time, please send a copy of the photo page of the passport you intend to travel on and a copy of your trip insurance*
*It’s worth noting most insurers require you to take out a policy within 14 days of paying a deposit for their trip cancellation/interruption clauses. Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you would like recommendations on who we use for our guide’s insurance etc.
Travel can be booked through our partner travel agent: Pirjo DeHart at CTT Destinations.
What’s included/not included in your Carstensz Pyramid Team Guided Climb
- Guides
- Climbing permits
- Group gear
- Cooks and kitchen supplies
- Breakfast and dinner food while on the mountain, and lunch food while at base camp
- Helicopter charter flight from Timika to base camp and back
- 3 nights accommodation in Timika double occupancy
- All transfers
- All international flights and flights to Timika, our meeting point
- All personal climbing gear and equipment
- Additional fees associated with early arrivals or late departures
- $200 Local guide, cooks, local porter tip pool (we will hold a tipping ceremony at the end of the trip)
- Mandatory trip, medical and evacuation insurance
- Visas, travel fees, excess baggage fees, etc
- All in town meals
- Excess baggage costs
- Any extra night’s accommodation due to delays above and beyond those covered (beyond the 3 nights in Timika)
- Drinks and alcohol, incidentals, 3rd party internet costs, laundry, etc.
- Any additional expenses above and beyond the normal trip costs such as rescues, medical issues, early departure expenses, etc.
- 5lbs of snack/climbing food for the climb and acclimatization days
- Single occupancy rooming
- Staff tips (customary but optional)
Each expedition is led by Mike Hamill.
Mike Hamill, lead guide and owner of CTSS, is universally regarded as one of the most experienced and respected high altitude mountaineers and expedition leaders in the world.
He has personally guided thousands of climbers on the Seven Summits and well over 150 climbers have stood atop 8000m peaks, including Everest with him. A guide for over 20 years, he boasts a 91% expedition success rate and an 83% climber summit success rate for all of his expeditions worldwide.
He has stood on top of Everest 6x and currently holds the record for most non-Sherpa summits of Cho Oyu. He’s also the author of the guidebook “Climbing the Seven Summits,”
To complement his leadership, Mike has hand-picked a selection of the finest mountaineering professionals from around the world to make up the international CTSS guiding team.
Our team are highly qualified and some of the most highly experienced climbers in the world. Chosen for their attention to detail, safety records along with their fun, genuine and caring personalities, we have no hesitation in saying they are the best. Mike holds the CTSS staff to the same high standards as he holds himself.
Who you choose for expedition organization and leadership is a big deal – it can be the difference between a great expedition and a miserable, potentially dangerous one and you only want the best in your corner. The fact that Mike and his guides have an unprecedented safety record should be a paramount consideration in who you choose to climb with.
Mike and the CTSS team’s love for the mountains and adventure continues in our corporate social responsibility policy. A portion of profits and fundraising climbs are organized every year in support of the “Tiger of the Snows Fund” a not-for-profit that provides grants to further education of mountain tourism workers and their families.
“Great leaders like Mike inspire and lead people to take on challenges and achieve great things.” -Tim Igo
Climbing the Seven Summits’ primary aim is to help you attain your personal climbing and trekking goals while experiencing the best of our planet, its unique cultures. and environments.
We strive to offer the highest quality mountaineering expeditions and treks at a great value while focusing on our primary goals: safety, success, and enjoyment.
We achieve this by bringing our extensive experience, top-of-the-line logistics, individualized and world-class guides to each adventure we undertake.
To give our clients the highest possible chance at success we are detailed in our approach, ensuring we’ve dotted our ‘i’s and crossed our ‘t’s. We provide personalized service, employ conservative acclimatization schedules, use top-of-the-line mountaineering, camping, and communications gear, hire only the best mountain leaders, and we don’t skimp on costs.
Our expeditions strive to set the highest standards and climb in “good style.” By this, we mean prioritizing the well-being and safety of our teams, leaving no trace on the environments we operate in, respecting culture, contributing to local economies by employing regional partners and paying them higher than the industry standard, and working in a self-sufficient and self-reliant way. We promote a responsible approach to adventure travel by connecting people to the natural world and giving back to local communities by donating a percentage of every expedition to the Tiger of the Snows Fund.
We take immense pride in our expeditions, and this shows in the positive feedback we receive from our teams who form lasting friendships forged in the mountains as they work together and overcome tough challenges.
Please visit our Client Testimonials page for quotes reflecting CTSS leadership and experience. If you would like to talk to previous customers as references, please contact us, and we can put you in touch with many satisfied climbers. Please feel free to give us a call or send us an email, and we will be happy to discuss the expedition with you. Joining a climbing or trekking expedition is a big deal, and it’s important to feel comfortable with the expedition leadership. The majority of our clients are return customers because of their overwhelmingly positive experiences.