Mike’s Big Four: Skills ALL Mountaineers Need
Safe and successful mountaineering is rooted in the skills you develop and hone along the way. Every climber, regardless of whether they are climbing Mount Baker or Mount Everest, needs a strong foundation in expedition management (e.g., winter camping and self-care) and technical skills (e.g., crampon and ice axe usage) paired with an intentional altitude progression. As a holistic mountaineering guide service, we are here to give you advice and are committed to ensuring that you are set up for success on all your future expeditions.
Not all trip itineraries offer climbers dedicated time to learn, practice, and refine the fundamental skills, which is why we designed the Mount Baker Alpine Academy courses—a program specifically developed for beginner climbers who want a jumping-off point to the great ranges around the world. Even seasoned climbers find Mount Baker a great place to refresh, improve efficiency, and continue to build mastery. What makes a strong climber is the continued repetition of skills, especially as you move toward a new objective.
We asked Mike Hamill, CTSS co-owner and author of Climbing the Seven Summits, to share the technical and expedition skills around which he designed the Mount Baker Alpine Academy curriculum and that he believes are fundamental to setting climbers up for a lifetime of climbing.
Skill #1: Multi-Day Expedition Camping
Camping and expedition training are the foundation upon which your more technical mountaineering skill set will rest. This includes everything from building and packing your kit for the hike into base camp to setting up a winter camp, spending consecutive nights in a tent, and managing a wide array of weather conditions. If you have your eyes on an expedition to Vinson, Denali, or Aconcagua, being proficient in these skills and having well-practiced, dependable systems will set you up for success so you can focus more on climbing.
We’ve broken this singular concept into three subcategories to help you better understand what skills you should focus on when you’re on Mount Baker.
- Expedition Kit: A properly curated kit is your lifeline in harsh environments. This kit should include a variety of layers to prevent both overheating and cold injuries, which means you’ll want moisture-wicking base layers to keep sweat away from your skin, insulating mid-layers to trap warmth and a waterproof, windproof outer shell for protection against the elements. Anticipating and adjusting your layers as conditions change ensures you stay warm without overheating. Your gear, from your crampons to your headlamp, must be organized, reliable, and tested beforehand to prevent any on-mountain mishaps. Insulated mountaineering boots are especially important—make sure they fit well to avoid frostbite and blisters and have space for bulky socks. Mount Baker offers the perfect terrain to test your kit together and explore how each piece works effectively as a system. Check out our blog post, How to Choose the Right Mountaineering Boots, for more info on choosing the right boot.
- Winter Camping: Tent camping in inclement conditions demands specific skills to ensure not only your comfort but also your survival in more extreme environments. Setting up a solid winter camp also requires a reliable, four-season tent capable of withstanding high winds and snowfall. Knowing how to secure your tent with snow anchors, create windbreaks, and avoid drafts is essential. Equally important is your sleep system; use a properly rated sleeping bag and two insulated sleeping pads to ensure you stay warm and get the rest you need to maintain energy for the next day’s climb. Another key task at camp is making potable water, which often means melting snow on the stove. Efficiently managing your water filtration systems and keeping fuel consumption under control are crucial for staying hydrated.
- Self-Care: Taking care of yourself on a multi-day expedition involves managing both your physical and mental well-being. Proper nutrition and hydration are essential, and your meals should be calorie-dense yet lightweight, designed to keep your energy levels high in the cold. It’s easy to forget to hydrate in freezing temperatures, but staying hydrated is just as critical as on warmer days. Injuries such as blisters or sore muscles can derail your climb if not managed early. Learn to avoid and treat blisters as soon as they appear, and be proactive with stretching and rest to keep muscle fatigue at bay. Having a well-stocked first aid kit and the know-how to use it can help you avoid minor issues turning into bigger problems.
Mike on the importance of self-care.
Skill #2: Cramponing & Ice Axe Techniques
Cramponing and ice axe techniques are essential for safe and efficient movement on glaciated terrain. Together, these tools allow climbers to ascend and descend safely, providing traction and support on technical routes. Mastering these skills is crucial for navigating challenging conditions and minimizing risk.
Crampons are detachable spikes designed to fit securely onto your mountaineering boots and provide traction on terrain covered in snow and ice. The most commonly used crampon technique is flat-footing (French technique). This style keeps the crampon flat against the surface, thereby engaging all points and helping conserve energy. Front-pointing (German technique), as the name suggests, involves using the front points of the crampon to kick into the ice, particularly on steep slopes, to provide strong, secure footing.
The ice axe is a specialized yet versatile tool used in mountaineering, specifically during glacier travel. It serves several key functions, including providing support, balance, and safety on snowy or icy slopes. It typically has three parts: the head (including the sharp pick and a flat blade called the adze), the shaft (the long handle), and the spike (the pointed end at the bottom).
Key ice axe techniques include learning to self-arrest, which is one of the most important safety skills in mountaineering. In the event of an unexpected fall, a climber must quickly retrieve their ice axe and dig it into the snow or ice while rolling to their stomach. Once a climber is laying flat, they can put additional pressure onto the head of the axe using their body weight. Ideally, the ice axe is tucked under the climber’s chest while they use their feet to stabilize their fall.
Skill #3: Rope Techniques
Rope techniques are essential in mountaineering to ensure safety, manage risk, and navigate technical sections of a climb. These techniques vary based on terrain, team size, and the difficulty of the route. Here are a few examples of rope techniques that we practice during our Mount Baker Alpine Academy and use regularly on our expeditions.
- Roped glacier travel, or roping up, is where climbers are tied together with a rope for mutual safety, especially on glaciers or steep sections. This helps prevent falls and aids in arresting or rescuing if someone on the team slips. This technique is commonly used on mountains when crevasses are a danger or when crossing exposed ridges.
- Fixed-line climbing, or the jumar technique, refers to a style of climbing in which fixed ropes are anchored to the mountain to provide assistance for climbs ascending steep, technical terrain. When ascending, climbers use a jumar (a mechanical ascender) to move up the rope while being securely attached. This technique is commonly used on Denali, Vinson, and across the Himalayas on near-vertical slopes.
- Crevasse rescue is a specific rope setup used during glacier travel, especially where hidden crevasses are a risk. This technique not only helps prevent unwanted falls into a crevasse but also enables quick rescue in the event of a fall. This is one of those skills that, ideally, you never need to use but is a core skill for expeditions on Denali and Vinson. Also, practicing these skills is probably some of the most fun you’ll have during our Alpine Academy.
Skill #4 – Efficiency Techniques
Mountaineering efficiency techniques like pressure breathing, the rest step, and maintaining a steady pace are vital skills for conserving energy and sustaining endurance during long climbs. These methods are designed to maximize oxygen intake and reduce muscle fatigue, allowing climbers to move more efficiently in high-altitude environments.
Pressure breathing emphasizes controlled, metered breaths, which, when used properly, can significantly improve oxygen saturation in your body and help keep your muscles oxygenated at high altitudes. If you were to use a pulse oximeter, you’d see a notable increase in O2 after about five minutes of pressure breathing. You might find that some guides teach back-pressure breathing, but remember that the goal is to breathe consistently and calmly.
The rest step incorporates a brief pause with each step by locking your back leg, enabling your skeletal system to bear more of the load and reducing strain on your muscles. In fact, if we were all standing around right now, you’d more than likely be practicing a rest step standing with one leg locked and the other not locked. This essentially mimics the rest step.
When combined with a steady pace, these techniques create a rhythm that enhances overall performance, allowing climbers to maintain a consistent, manageable speed that conserves energy and reduces exhaustion on challenging terrain.
Mike’s thoughts on efficiency.
Final Thoughts on Mountaineering Skills
It’s important to remember that these skills aren’t just checkboxes during your Mount Baker Alpine Academy. These are lifelong mountaineering skills that you will need to practice and hone year after year because they are crucial for your safety and success in the mountains. Regardless of where you are in your mountaineering journey, you don’t want to get to the final pitches on Denali, for example, and feel exhausted, inefficient, and intimidated by what’s in front of you. When you take the time to learn and continually refine these skills, you will become a more capable and confident mountaineer, making every adventure more rewarding.
If you have questions about your own climbing journey or how to set yourself up for success on a particular objective, our team is happy to help you craft a plan designed specifically for you. We work with mountaineers over a lifetime of climbing, and we get to know each individual throughout their progression, investing deeply not only in your safety and success but in your goals, education, and experience.
Mountaineering 101: Expedition Essentials on Mount Baker
Ready to level up your climbing skills? Join top guides Dallas Glass and Kat Schaumberg for an expert-led webinar in November to learn about our favorite classroom—Mount Baker!
This FREE webinar is your chance to learn from our very own Mount Baker Lead Guides as they share their expertise on essential mountain climbing techniques. From mastering glacier travel to honing your camping skills in harsh environments, discover why Mount Baker is the ideal classroom for climbers aiming for bigger peaks.
