Personal advice on climbing Aconcagua from Mike Hamill
Mount Vinson is absolutely my favorite of the Seven Summits. Nestled deep in Antarctica, ascending one of the most isolated mountains on our planet is an unparalleled and exclusive privilege. Few climbers have the opportunity to climb this peak, and Vinson has far fewer summits than Mt Everest.
The journey to the mountain alone is an adventure. Accessible only for a brief period each year, the anticipation builds as we gather at the southernmost tip of South America before boarding another flight over the Southern Seas to Antarctica, touching down in the interior on a runway of blue ice. From there, we hop onto specialized ski planes to Vinson Base Camp.
After arriving at Vinson Base Camp, we’re ready for the climb. It’s a special feeling watching the small ski plane depart, leaving you and your team alone with the mountain. The humility and thrill of being as remote from civilization as possible—and the climb has yet to begin!
Here are a few things I’d like to offer up as some advice when you are heading to Vinson:
- Don’t underestimate the cold. Removing your face covering or a glove can lead to a cold injury. Listen closely to your guides and copy what they do to take care of themselves. Stay disciplined in keeping covered up to prevent frostnip or frostbite..
- Invest in the right gear. Having the right gear is critical. Polar temperatures are serious, and you need to closely follow our gear guides sent prior to your trip to make sure you’re prepared. Make sure you adhere to specific warmth ratings. Don’t try to cut corners, or “make do” with old systems/gear. On Vinson, make sure you protect yourself with the right clothing, climbing boots, sleeping bag, etc.
- Training for Vinson. Moving from Base Camp to Low Camp, we often use sleds pulled behind us to spread our pack weight and move more gear and equipment up the mountain. One of the most valuable ways to train for Vinson is by dragging a large car tire connected to your harness while wearing a weighted pack. It will train your body to pull and strengthen all the small stabilizer muscles you otherwise wouldn’t work in the gym. You don’t want your muscles to be sore on Day 1 of the climb.
- Manage expectations. Make sure your work and family understand the trip length and lack of communication. It is rare, but lengthy delays do happen without access to a cell or internet connection. The planes on the ice won’t fly in anything other than perfect conditions, so if you get a storm or poor visibility, you could be sitting at Base Camp for days on end. Bring a Kindle with preloaded books, and download some good podcasts or movies to your phone and a small portable solar system like a Goal Zero to recharge your device batteries.
- Expect to feel more physically taxed on Vinson. The relentless cold, the confusion that 24-hour daylight has on your body clock, and most importantly, the way the atmospheric pressure in Antarctica affects altitude perception. At the North and South Poles, the atmosphere has relatively low pressure compared to sea level, so it will feel higher, and you will feel more fatigued than on other mountains of similar altitude.
- Research Antarctica. Before you arrive, dive into the rich exploration history of this icy continent. It will intensify the experience as you imagine what the early explorers faced compared to our comfy base camp and present-day gear and equipment.
I’ve always found Vinson one of the most thrilling and life-changing of the Seven Summits, and I’m sure you will, too.
The explorers, adventurers, and mountaineers you meet in the heart of Antarctica are some of the most humbling, high-achieving, and fascinating people on Earth. Having the opportunity to connect with them and call them friends will be one of the most life-changing elements of your expedition.
Best Wishes,
Mike
