A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' Ama Dablam Expedition from Mike Hamill
Ama Dablam holds a special place in my heart. My first time on the mountain I was climbing fast and light with a few guide buddies after getting back to Kathmandu from Cho Oyu. We were well acclimatized so were able to move quickly up the mountain. It is always a treat as a mountain guide to get out with friends and push yourself in the mountains; especially on a peak as beautiful as “Ama”.
I don’t think I fully understood the steepness and exposure that climbing on Ama Dablam entails. Although i really enjoy this aspect of the climb, on my first expedition to the mountain I was caught off guard because it is much more committing than other popular Himalayan “trade routes”. This is a serious climb that needs to be respected. Don’t underestimate it. However, if you show up prepared you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful climbing in the world!
A climb of Ama Dablam is really the best way to experience the Khumbu valley and it’s culture. What better excuse than a climb as beautiful as this to venture into the most stunning and famous valley on the planet. Ama Dablam is also a great stepping stone to Everest because it mimics the steeper sections of the Everest climb.
We look forward to sharing this beautiful Himalayan giant with you and showing you the wonders of high altitude climbing!
All the best,
Mike Hamill
- Don’t underestimate the weather on Elbrus, make sure you invest in your warm gear and you carry it with you on the mountain even if you think the weather is going to be nice all day. It can get very windy on Elbrus and temperatures can drop quickly.
- Make sure your down parka is the last thing to go into your pack so it’s the first thing you can pull out. Put it on at every rest break before you start to get cold. It takes less energy for your body to maintain its warmth, than to have to warm up again once you start to notice you are getting cold.
- Look for the steps of climbers ahead of you and try to step in their steps. It’s much harder to kick in your own staircase on the steeper sections than use the one that’s already in place. As you start up, take a quick moment to look for these tracks to save yourself some energy. It’s worth conserving your energy even if you are at the start of your day.
- If you are tempted to take the snow cat on summit morning, don’t feel like you are “cheating” in anyway. Your previous acclimatization days will have put you at the same high point as the snow cat drops you off so you have still climbed every step of the mountain one way or another.
- If you are a skier or snowboarder I highly recommend the ski descent, it’s a memorable way to descend one of the Seven Summits (and a bonus claim to fame) as you can ski right off the summit. Not to mention its a much faster, more fun way back to the hut for a well deserved celebration.