AMA DABLAM  |  Asia


Ama Dablam Expedition Beta

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Elevation: 6,812m or 22,300ft
Duration: 27 Days
Continent: Asia
Country: Nepal
Route: Southwest Ridge Route
Difficulty: Advanced Intermediate

Special Considerations: To consider an ascent of Ama Dablam, participants must have a strong technical ability with experience using crampons, ice axes and fixed lines.

Previous experience on prolonged mountain expeditions is also desired, especially at high altitude. This is a very strenuous expedition so a high level of fitness is required.

Though fixed lines help climbers navigate some of the most technical route sections it is important for all Ama Dablam climbers to be comfortable with exposure, and moving through steep rocky terrain up to grade 5.8 or 5.9.

An ascent of Ama Dablam is a great option if you have past alpine rock climbing experience (for instance the Grand Teton in the USA, the Matterhorn in Switzerland, Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia) and/or have climbed peaks like Lobuche East, Island Peak, Elbrus in Russia, or Denali in the United States.

If you’re not sure if you have the experience for this climb, please ask us. We can recommend a training regime, progression climbs and skills courses to make sure youare prepared and successful on your Ama Dablam climb.

elbrus, climbing the seven summits, mountaineering, seven summits

Expedition Beta and Strategy


Our Ama Dablam climb meets in Kathmandu where we obtain our permits, run through gear checks and have a team meeting. Following our time in Kathmandu we fly to Lukla to start the trek. We land at the Hillary runway at roughly 9,000ft/3,000m. From the moment you land in Lukla you will be at altitude. It’s important to take it easy and let your body adjust to the altitude naturally. From here we make our way up the Khumbu valley staying at some of the best teahouses in the region in order to mitigate the stress so you can focus on the climb.

Hygiene is incredibly important to us and we take many precautions to make sure our team avoids getting sick. Despite this, illness can be a fact of life in Nepal so chances are people will at least experience a stomach rumbling at some point during the trek.

Once en route we use a slow, methodical acclimatization strategy to position ourselves for the summit bid. Most treks rush this process and suffer the consequences of altitude illness because of it.

Our Ama Dabalm base camp is the finest on the mountain. We spare little expense making you feel as comfortable as possible. Our top-notch cooks make you the healthiest food possible with strong hygiene standards.

 What makes the beauty and excitement of trekking in this majestic land even better is being part of the lovely and hospitable Sherpa culture. Sherpa are known the world over for their graciousness and generosity.

Enjoy spending time visiting famous cultural and religious sights on our way through this scenic valley in the shadow of the world’s highest mountains. Our slow acclimatization schedule means there is plenty of time to explore landmarks like the famous Tengboche Monastery where you can stop by to visit a High Lama and receive a blessing, take time to explore the famous Namche Bazaar – the Sherpa capital or have a beer in the world’s highest pub. Passing by countless Tibetan Buddhist stupas and chortens, you will feel the rich culture of Tibetan Buddhism come alive.

We choose to implement a slow acclimatization schedule, not just so you can take in the sights and sounds of the valley but to ensure you enjoy your trek and feel great during the climb. Altitude isn’t something to be feared; it’s achievable for most people but it isn’t a process that can be rushed. Treks that move too quickly often have disgruntled, unwell people because their bodies are struggling to adjust.

Yes, a climb of Ama Dablam requires excellent fitness, and strong technical skills but it is an achievable goal. You need to have the mindset to be away from home for several weeks, along with the desire for adventure travel. The Khumbu is still a remote place with few of the creature comforts we have come to expect at home so it’s best to suspend your expectations of 5 star luxury, super smooth trails and blazing fast internet. In fact, when you embrace it, you’ll enjoy the slower pace of life and being a little disconnected from the rush of the Western world. That said, we do provide many of the comforts of home, select tea houses that are clean, have great food, offer hot showers, and support 3rd party wifi internet for purchase.

How is our program unique


We encourage you to research your many options when it comes to picking a guide service for your dream Ama Dablam climb. As a popular climb, we know that there are a variety of operators to choose from who offer different styles and therefore prices. A few ways in which we differ and add value to our trips are:

 

  • CTSS Owner Mike Hamill oversees each expedition: Mike Hamill, 6 times Everest summiteer and leader of 25+ X 8000m expeditions personally oversees the planning and execution of each Ama Dablam expedition. The only way for a company owner to ensure that a trip improves every year and is led to the highest standards is for them to personally oversee and be present in the planning and execution of the expedition.

 

  • The best teahouses: CTSS always stays at some of the finest teahouses in the valley. We choose our teahouses based upon quality of accommodations, hygiene and cleanliness, food and hospitality. The Khumbu Valley teahouses are rustic to be sure, and this is adventure travel. Even so, you will be in relative luxury.

 

  • The best guides: This is hugely important- please research the quality and experience of your guides thoroughly. All of our guides have extensive knowledge of the region and have proven themselves at altitude time and again. Many of them have dozens of trips to Nepal and have stood on top of Mt. Everest so can talk about what it’s like to climb the world’s biggest mountains.

 

  • Highest paid Sherpa: We purposely pay our Sherpa more than anyone so that they are happy and take care of our clients. Year in, year out we can attract the best talent. Our world-class team of Sherpa are hand-picked by Sirdar Tendi Sherpa and CTSS owner Mike Hamill to ensure we have the cream of the crop. They are all close friends who we have complete confidence in. Because they are paid well they go the extra mile to make sure base camp is exceptional and that our clients are extremely well taken care of. Once they’ve been selected for the team, they go through intensive training and a 5-day review process which includes mountain medicine, client care, technical rescue, and guiding principles before being ok’ed to work. We believe in our Sherpa and know that they will do a great job for you and become friends for life.

Expedition Leadership


This expedition will be organized by guide and owner of CTSS, Mike Hamill. Mike is universally regarded as one of the most experienced and respected high altitude mountaineers and expedition leaders in the world.

He has personally guided thousands of climbers on the Seven Summits and well over 300 climbers have stood atop 8000m peaks, including Everest with him. A guide for over 20 years, he boasts a 91% expedition success rate and an 83% climber summit success rate for all of his expeditions worldwide.

He has stood on top of Everest 6x and currently holds the record for most non-Sherpa summits of Cho Oyu. He’s also the author of the guidebook “Climbing the Seven Summits,”

To complement his leadership, Mike has hand-picked a selection of the finest mountaineering professionals from around the world to make up the international CTSS guiding team.

Our team are some of the most highly experienced and qualified guides in the world. Chosen for their attention to detail, safety records along with their fun, genuine and caring personalities, we have no hesitation in saying they are the best. Mike holds the CTSS staff to the same high standards as he holds himself.

Who you choose for expedition organization and leadership is a big deal – it can be the difference between a great expedition and a miserable, potentially dangerous one and you only want the best in your corner. The fact that Mike and his guides have an unprecedented safety record should be a paramount consideration in who you choose to climb with.

Mike and the CTSS team’s love for the mountains and adventure continues in our corporate social responsibility policy. A portion of profits and fundraising climbs are organized every year in support of the  “Tiger of the Snows Fund” a not-for-profit that provides grants to further education of mountain tourism workers and their families.

Climbing the Seven Summits’ primary aim is to help you attain your personal climbing and trekking goals while experiencing the best of our planet, its unique cultures and environments.

We strive to offer the highest quality mountaineering expeditions and treks at a great value while focusing on our primary goals: safety, success, and enjoyment.

We achieve this by bringing our extensive experience, top of the line logistics  individualized service, and world-class guides to each adventure we undertake.

To give our clients the highest possible chance at success we are detailed in our approach, ensuring we’ve dotted our ‘i’s and crossed our ‘t’s. We provide personalized service, employ conservative acclimatization schedules, use top of the line mountaineering, camping and communications gear, hire only the best mountain leaders and we don’t skimp on costs.

Our expeditions strive to set the highest standards and climb in “good style”. By this we mean prioritising the wellbeing and safety of our teams, leaving no trace on the environments we operate in, respecting culture, contributing to local economies by employing regional partners and paying them higher than the industry standard and working in a self-sufficient and self-reliant way. We promote a responsible approach to adventure travel by connecting people to the natural world and giving back to local communities by donating a percentage of every expedition to ‘Tiger of the Snows Fund”

We take immense pride in our expeditions and this shows in the positive feedback we receive from our teams who form lasting friendships forged in the mountains as they work together and overcome tough challenges.

Great leaders like Mike inspire and lead people to take on challenges and achieve great things.

- Tim Igo