Technical Training in Ecuador
The team are doing a stellar job in Ecuador.
Yesterday they covered cramponing on hard ice using various techniques for steep bare ice and set up belays using ice screws on the lower slopes of Cotopaxi. Crowd favourite was their self arrest training and sliding on the snow (which they were lucky to find in current conditions).
The team is moving very well at altitude and in various conditions. They tagged 16,400ft which is the highest they've been on the expedition thus far, moving as a rope team through the glaciers.
With the summit climbing route on Cotopaxi still closed due to volcanic activity, the team have pivoted plan and today they are driving to the trailhead of Los Illinizas where they will use a mule team to move some of their heavier gear up to the mountain hut and have dinner and sleep. The next day, they may split up with part of the team heading to Illiniza Norte to do more high altitude hiking/scrambling and the folks who really loved the ice portion of training will head to climb Illiniza Sur which is a steep glacier involving a short low angle ice climbing section.
Then it is onward to Cayambe!
All well in Ecuador.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Acclimatization in Ecuador
Our Ecuador team are off to a flying start.
They've toured Quito, tagged the Equator (where their GPS' read 000) visited the National Monument established by the French which was a marker for the equator but over time has shifted with continental drift. They then rode the Teleferico up to do an acclimatization hike up to 13,500ft. The highlight was some high altitude llamas who joined them!
Today they hiked Ruminahui up to 15,200ft which is a good altitude test and great for the legs and lungs to get prepped for the climbing that lies ahead.
Cotopaxi is still conservatively closed so they will do some training on the lower glacier fields far from any activity, before heading over to the Illiniza's for their first summit push.
Cheers
CTSS Team
Single Rooming Teahouse Upgrade
Single rooming option
$1,250 USD
We are happy to organize single rooming accommodations and a tea house upgrade for you throughout the expedition. If you snore or are easily awakened by others that do snore, this might be a great option. We feel that having a single room helps climbers stay healthy and adds a bit of comfort and personal space that can go a long way on a long expedition like Ama Dablam. If you would like a single rooming option please let us know. Please note that tent accommodations on Ama Dablam are double-occupancy for warmth and safety.
We stay at some of the nicest teahouses in the Khumbu valley throughout our trek to keep you healthy and to provide you with comfort. Many teahouses offer room upgrades which may include an en suite bathroom and more space, whereas our normal rooms generally have a shared bathroom and shower for an added fee.
City Tours & Nepal Extensions
Nepal is one of the world’s most popular destinations. With incredible landscapes and rich culture, once there, it is truly worth seeing as much of the country as you can. We can seamlessly organize a variety of fantastic customised excursions and extensions for you, either prior to or after your expedition.
Contact us for any requests you have, so we can plan them seamlessly for you.
Pre-Trip Full Day Kathmandu Cultural Tour
$250 per person
Kathmandu is one of the most exciting, culturally rich cities in the world. Unique and overflowing with sights, smells, sounds, and tastes, it’s both chaotic and charming. It is a city of true contrast that needs to be experienced to be understood. During our Kathmandu Cultural Tour, an English-speaking guide will show you the best history and culture the city has to offer.
Paragliding in Pokhara (Annapurna Region)
Take in the spectacular views of the Himalayas while paragliding over Lake Pokhara. Nepal offers some of the best flying in the world, with low-lying valleys, high, cold mountains, and natural rising thermals that you can share with the hawks! You can fly with world-class pilots in tandem or stay longer and benefit from their wealth of experience, and you can get your international license in Nepal. Spend a few days at the Lake and truly unwind with a change of scenery.
Trek the Annapurna Circuit or Sanctuary Walk
On a mission to tick off the best treks in the world? Why not take advantage of your fitness and experience the Annapurna region with either the Sanctuary Walk (slightly shorter and slightly lower altitude) or the Annapurna Circuit (slightly longer and crosses the 5,416m Thorong La pass into the Mustang region).
Jungle Safari in Chitwan National Park
One of Nepal’s greatest drawcards, Chitwan National Park is a World Heritage Site that protects 932 sq km of forest and grasslands. It is arguably the best place in Asia to view wild game, including horned rhinos, monkeys, deer, and over 500 species of bear. If you are lucky, you may even spot a leopard, sloth, elephant, or even the elusive Bengal tiger!
Visit the Upper Mustang
Trekking in the Upper Mustang is a very rare privilege, and it has only been open to non-Nepali for just over 15 years. Here, you will experience the way of life of true mountain people, who for hundreds of years had very little contact with the rest of Nepal and retained their rich cultural heritage. In many ways, visiting the Upper Mustang is similar to Tibet, as geographically, it is part of the Tibetan plateau.
Helicopter Options
Many of our climbers say that one of the best experiences of their entire expedition is taking a helicopter flight back down the Khumbu Valley and getting an aerial view of the trek, the peaks they’ve been climbing and the mighty Himalayan range. It is, without doubt, one of the most scenic, adventurous mountain flights in the world.
Further, while people initially think they will want to undertake the 3 day, 40 mile trek back down the valley, we’ve found that after a long expedition in mountains, the draw of civilisation, getting back to family and friends & enjoying that well-deserved beer can be irresistible.
We have a number of options available for you:
One Way Helicopter from Ama Dablam Base Camp to Lukla*
$2,995 USD
A helicopter flight from Ama Dablam Base Camp to Lukla avoiding the three day walk back down the valley. From Lukla you will catch a regularly scheduled fixed-wing plane back to Kathmandu either that day or the following. (Your domestic fixed wing flight is included in your expedition costs)
One Way Helicopter from Base Camp to Kathmandu*
$4,995 USD
For climbers who are keen to get back to Kathmandu and homeward bound as quickly and efficiently as possible at the end of the expedition, we can arrange a helicopter for you directly from Ama Dablam Base Camp all the way to Kathmandu.
Family & Friends Options
We welcome you to invite friends and family to join you for all, or part of your 3 Peaks expedition.
The benefits are:
- The joy of sharing this once in a lifetime experience with your loved ones
- Lessening the time apart
- Puts family at ease as they get a first hand understanding and empathy of the nature of your expedition and goal
Everest Base Camp Trek (with Lobuche)
$4,495 USD
The Everest Base Camp trek is widely heralded as the best trek in the world and for good reason; it’s beautiful, challenging yet achievable, and incredibly scenic. Roughly 40 miles/70 km you will trek through lush green pastures, blossoming Rhododendron forests and the most spectacular mountain terrain in the world.
Adding 2 extra days to the usual Everest Base Camp schedule family and friends are welcome to stay with you the entire time and relax at Lobuche Base Camp while you climb (time apart is minimal)
Following your ascent you will journey together into Everest Base Camp Proper at 17,600ft/ 5,500m where, being affiliated with an Everest climbing expedition, your friends and family are also able to enter and spend 2x nights within Base Camp, something the vast majority of trekkers never experience.
This allows them to get a sense of the Everest base camp scene and community and what goes into an Everest expedition. If they are feeling good you have the added option to join our climbing clinic, scale Kala Pathar the morning they leave base camp for stunning views of the Everest Massif, Lhotse and Nuptse.
Your family and friends can then splinter off and return down valley if they are pressed for time with our other trekkers, spend extra nights at Base Camp, do the Gokyo Extension or join you for the entire 3 Peaks Circuit.
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley. Our expedition ends in Kathmandu where CTSS will cover one night accommodation. We recommend booking a flexible return airfare.
- Apr 3 Team Arrives
- Apr 4 KTM Day
- Apr 5 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 6 Trek to Namche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 9 Rest
- Apr 10 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 11 Rest
- Apr 12 Trek to Lobuche Base camp
- Apr 13 Acclimatization Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 14 Move to Lobuche High Camp (optional - family and friends are welcome to stay in the better equiped Base Camp if they prefer)
- Apr 15 Rest Day
- Apr 16 Climbers summit, family & friends rest day
- Apr 17 Trek to EBC
- Apr 18 Everest Climbing Clinic & Explore BC
- Apr 19 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 20 Trek to Namche
- Apr 21 Trek to Lukla
- Apr 22 Fly Lukla to KTM
- Apr 23 Fly Home
- Apr 24 Contingency Day
3 Peaks Trekking Circuit
$5,495 USD
Family and Friends often love to stay with you for your entire expedition and the 3 peaks trekking circuit is an ideal adventure to do this with you as it allows your loved ones to not only do the most spectacular trek in the world in Everest Base Camp but explore off the beaten track elements of the Khumbu Valley as they trek with you into Pokalde & Island Peak base camps too. These are seldom seen valleys off the main route full of authentic Sherpa culture minus the crowds.
Given the alpine climbing starts, the time you actually spend apart (whilst you are climbing and summiting) is actually minimal and a great time for them to kick back with some Chai tea and enjoy being in the majestic Himalaya far from the madding crowds
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley. Our expedition ends in Kathmandu where CTSS will cover one night accommodation. We recommend booking a flexible return airfare.
- Apr 3 Team Arrives
- Apr 4 KTM Day
- Apr 5 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 6 Trek to Namche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 9 Rest
- Apr 10 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 11 Rest
- Apr 12 Trek to Lobuche base camp
- Apr 13 Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 14 Acclimatisation trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 15 Rest Day
- Apr 16 Rest while climbers summit and descend Lobuche BC
- Apr 17 Trek to EBC
- Apr 18 Rest at EBC - Training
- Apr 19 Trek to Lobuche
- Apr 20 Trek to Pokalde via Kongma La
- Apr 21 Rest at Pokalde while climbers summit & descend to Chhukung
- Apr 22 Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak BC
- Apr 23 Rest at Island Peak BC while climbers summit and return Chhukung
- Apr 24 Trek Chhukung to Pangboche
- Apr 25 Pangboche to Namche
- Apr 26 Namche to Lukla
- Apr 27 Lukla flight to KTM
- Apr 28 Fly home
- Apr 29 Contingency day
- Apr 30 Contingency day
Ama Dablam Travel Guide
Expedition Meets in: Kathmandu, Nepal
Continent: Asia
Currency: Nepalese Rupee
Population: 28million
Official Language: Nepali
Seasons to climb: March to May = Spring | September to December = Fall
Things you Need to Know:
Tourist Visas
Nepal’s visa policy is relatively relaxed and straightforward. Citizens of almost any country can obtain a visa on arrival at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International airport or at any road border. You can also obtain a visa at the Nepal embassy or consulate in your home country.
For most of our expeditions, you will need a 30-day (US$50) or 90-day (US$125) visa.
Tourist visa can be extended for a maximum period of 150 days in a single visa year (January – December)
Visa requirements can change at any time, so it is worth checking with your travel agent or the closest embassy for the most up-to-date information.
Getting there
You will need to fly into Kathmandu on or before the official arrival day of your expedition. A CTSS representative will pick you up at the airport, so please advise us well in advance of your arrival time and flight number. If you experience a delay travelling, let us know immediately.
Domestic Flights
Your domestic flights into the Khumbu (to and from Lukla) are included in your expedition and will be booked by us on your behalf. Due to the mountainous terrain and low-lying clouds, there can be weather delays into and out of the Khumbu Valley, which is why we recommend booking flexible return airfares home at the end of your expedition.
Money
In Kathmandu, there is good access to ATMs and credit card facilities at most shops and restaurants, but you should still have adequate Nepalese rupees and carry small denominations. Once you are in the Khumbu, access to ATMs is very limited, and while they can be found in the bigger hubs like Lukla and Namche, outages can be common, so it’s best not to rely exclusively on being able to access cash as you go. Responsibly carry adequate amounts of local currency for your needs and reserves for emergencies. We advise our clients in our team emails as to how much cash they should bring. USD is also selectively accepted..
Tipping
Tipping has become more common in Nepal in recent times due to increased tourism.
It is customary for your guides, porters, and Sherpa staff. To make this process easier, CTSS will collect and distribute fairly a Sherpa Tip Pool and advise you on current amounts. In major tourist areas, hotels and restaurants, you will often see a service charge of 10% – this usually equals a tip. In smaller, local eateries, it’s rare to see this, and then it is up to your discretion.
Adapters
Nepal actually uses three plug types – C (two round pins), D (three round pins in a triangular pattern) & M (three round pins), so consider purchasing a reliable universal adapter that gives you all the options. Also, it’s VERY important to note that Nepal operates on a 230V supply and a supply voltage of 50Hz. If this differs from your home, buy a voltage converter to avoid frying your devices! For instance, the standard voltage in the US is 120V, and some older devices won’t handle a 230V supply.
Tap Water
The tap water and river water in Nepal are unsafe to drink, so please use bottled water, purification tablets, or boiled water for drinking and brushing your teeth. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Your body requires more at altitude.
Personal Safety
Despite perceptions, Nepal is a relatively safe destination for travellers, and there is a low rate of serious crime. However, you should still take sensible precautions.
Watch out for pick-pockets and bag-snatching, particularly in airports, on buses, and in popular tourist areas like Thamel, Sanepa, and Kupondol in Kathmandu. Avoid walking on your own and don’t carry or flaunt large sums of cash. Keep valuables in a hotel safe if possible. Behave in Nepal as you would at home, err on the conservative side in terms of dress and behaviour. Be respectful and always let your Guide know if you’re going to venture out and what your plan is. In general, we prefer to travel and stick together as a team.
Vaccinations
Consult your doctor or travel clinic in your home country for updated information on immunizations for Nepal and China. The usual recommended vaccinations are Diphtheria-tetanus, polio, measles, mumps and rubella, meningitis, hepatitis A and B, cholera, typhoid, and rabies. Malaria shouldn’t be a problem in Kathmandu or on the climb. If you plan to travel to lower-elevation areas before or after the climb, you should consider a malaria chemoprophylaxis.
Ama Dablam Advice from Mike Hamill
A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' Ama Dablam Expedition from Mike Hamill
Ama Dablam holds a special place in my heart. My first time on the mountain I was climbing fast and light with a few guide buddies after getting back to Kathmandu from Cho Oyu. We were well acclimatized so were able to move quickly up the mountain. It is always a treat as a mountain guide to get out with friends and push yourself in the mountains; especially on a peak as beautiful as “Ama”.
I don’t think I fully understood the steepness and exposure that climbing on Ama Dablam entails. Although i really enjoy this aspect of the climb, on my first expedition to the mountain I was caught off guard because it is much more committing than other popular Himalayan “trade routes”. This is a serious climb that needs to be respected. Don’t underestimate it. However, if you show up prepared you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful climbing in the world!
A climb of Ama Dablam is really the best way to experience the Khumbu valley and it’s culture. What better excuse than a climb as beautiful as this to venture into the most stunning and famous valley on the planet. Ama Dablam is also a great stepping stone to Everest because it mimics the steeper sections of the Everest climb.
We look forward to sharing this beautiful Himalayan giant with you and showing you the wonders of high altitude climbing!
All the best,
Mike Hamill
- Don’t underestimate the weather on Elbrus, make sure you invest in your warm gear and you carry it with you on the mountain even if you think the weather is going to be nice all day. It can get very windy on Elbrus and temperatures can drop quickly.
- Make sure your down parka is the last thing to go into your pack so it’s the first thing you can pull out. Put it on at every rest break before you start to get cold. It takes less energy for your body to maintain its warmth, than to have to warm up again once you start to notice you are getting cold.
- Look for the steps of climbers ahead of you and try to step in their steps. It’s much harder to kick in your own staircase on the steeper sections than use the one that’s already in place. As you start up, take a quick moment to look for these tracks to save yourself some energy. It’s worth conserving your energy even if you are at the start of your day.
- If you are tempted to take the snow cat on summit morning, don’t feel like you are “cheating” in anyway. Your previous acclimatization days will have put you at the same high point as the snow cat drops you off so you have still climbed every step of the mountain one way or another.
- If you are a skier or snowboarder I highly recommend the ski descent, it’s a memorable way to descend one of the Seven Summits (and a bonus claim to fame) as you can ski right off the summit. Not to mention its a much faster, more fun way back to the hut for a well deserved celebration.
Ama Dablam Training & Prerequisites
Prerequisites:
We require that our participants have a solid foundation in cold weather management and strong physical fitness. Cold is the one of the biggest hazards for this expedition and everyone needs to be comfortable taking care of themselves independently. It is also important that you have prior experience with cramponing, harness use and walking on snow. A strong rock-climbing base will also assist with the technical sections, but strong experience with using a fixed line will also suffice. The exposure on Ama Dablam is extreme so being comfortable with heights, steep terrain and big exposure is a must.
Participants need to have excellent fitness, and the mindset to be away from home for 3 weeks or more, and a desire for rugged adventure travel. An Ama Dablam Summit climb is very physically arduous and needs to be taken very seriously. Participants need to be in the shape of their lives and be able to climb for 12-15 hours through the cold carrying a pack on summit day.
Nepal is a very remote and rugged place with few of the creature comforts we have come to expect. We try to give our climbers nice amenities when possible but, at the end of the day, this is true adventure travel and you need to have patience and be able to roll with the punches.
Guides will work with clients throughout the expedition to provide safety, advice, logistics, technical guidance, and information to best ensure the clients’ success.
If you want to join this expedition but don’t have the requisite skills, we can work with you to get you up to speed prior to the expedition. Please let us know how we can help!
Physical Training
You need to be very physically fit and able to dedicate time to ‘climbing specific training’ in the lead up to your expedition. Being in top shape will also ensure you enjoy your climb, feel good throughout and get the most out of the experience.
It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. Instead you need to emulate long physical days (8hrs +) in the mountains
We recommend that you:
- Start specific mountaineering training at least 3 months in advance
- Train at least 5 days a week for an hour or more
- Focus on high volume but low intensity training
- A good goal is to be able to comfortably climb 1,500 vertical ft per hour with 6-8kg, 15lbs day pack
- Schedule a few weekends where you can do two or more full days back to back. Multi day hikes with good elevation are ideal.
Mindset
Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak.
You should be prepared:
- To be away from home/work for 2 weeks with short periods of being out of range
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow team mates
- Be humble, respectful and considerate even under pressure
How to Choose The Right Ama Dablam Expedition
Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful and iconic peaks in the world and a great place to test your mettle. Whether you are a newer climber or very experienced, this climb has something for everyone. Many of our Everest Summiters have completed the Ama Dablam climb in their journey to the Everest Summit, while others use an ascent of Ama Dablam as an excuse to come back to the Khumbu after their Everest climb. Ama Dablam is a crowd favorite and it makes for a great opportunity to get on some similar terrain to Everest, albeit at lower altitude. In fact, many of our climbers pair Ama Dablam with other fall climbing in the Himalayas as the perfect way to train and gain high altitude experience and technical skills for Mt Everest. We welcome you to join us on this once-in-a-lifetime experience to one of the most beautiful regions on earth.
Climbing the Seven Summits is committed to providing the highest quality Ama Dablam climb. You can be assured that it will be both challenging and fun; a true once in a lifetime experience. Our professional priorities are first and foremost “Safety” and “Success” which we achieve by outfitting our teams with the best logistics and the most capable, qualified and seasoned guides in the world.
This expedition will be organized by Mike Hamill, Owner of Climbing the Seven Summits. Mike has personally guided 14 Mt. Everest expeditions, 26 X 8,000m expeditions, has 6 Everest summits, currently holds the record for most non-Sherpa summits of Cho Oyu, and has written the guide book to “Climbing the Seven Summits,” making him one of the most experienced expedition leaders working today. Climbing the Seven Summits expeditions are meticulously organized with the best logistics
