How to Choose The Right Aconcagua Expedition

ACONCAGUAĀ  |Ā  South America


How to Choose The Right Aconcagua Expedition

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Researching and choosing the right expedition company to support you and help guide you through all logistics, as well as be there for you on the mountain, is the most important decision you will make.

You want to do your homework so you feel 100% confident in your choice and can focus on your climbing.

We encourage you to look closely at both the big picture and the small details. Look at a companyā€™s priority on safety, the quality and experience of their guides, their reputation, and their level of ā€˜care factorā€™.

Climbing the Seven Summits is committed to being the Gold Standard on Aconcagua and providing the highest quality expedition. You can be assured that it will be both challenging and fun, a true once-in-a-lifetime experience.


Safety & Success

Your safety and success are the top priorities, in that order. An expedition company should invest heavily and plan extensively for your safety by outfitting their teams with the best logistics and the most capable, qualified, and seasoned guides in the world.

Aconcagua is arguably one of the most underestimated peaks in the world with many climbers expecting a difficulty similar to Kilimanjaro. At Climbing the Seven Summits we believe it is in your best interest to tell it to you straight – Aconcagua is a very tough mountain! Physically it is closer to Denali than Kilimanjaro or Elbrus, with several days of carrying a full pack from camp to camp just to get in position for the summit day.

Summit day itself is one of the most arduous days of climbing on any of the Seven Summits involving 12 to 16 hours of climbing above 20,000 feet.

Beware of operators who downplay the difficulty of Aconcagua or call it a beginner peak just to bolster their team size; they often end up turning half their team back without remorse as they chase a buck. At CTSS we will be frank about the realities and challenges of Aconcagua so you can arrive properly prepared to meet your goal rather than sugar coating it as an ā€˜easy trekking peakā€™. While Aconcagua may seem ā€˜technically straight forwardā€™ the length of the expedition, the weight of your pack, the extreme altitude, and self sufficient expedition style combine to make it a true big mountain experience.Ā 

Our program has been designed to keep you safe and see you succeed. Our Aconcagua climbs boast a whopping 93% client success rate overall, compared to the standard of 30-40%!

CTSS is happy to provide training suggestions and link our climbers to qualified coaches to prepare for any climb.


Look For A Slow Acclimatization Schedule

Most people fail (60-70% of people) on Aconcagua because of poor acclimatization and a rushed schedule.

Aconcagua is an extreme altitude peak and should be treated as such. To be successful you need to give your body time to adjust, even Base Camp is at an altitude of 4,200m!

Look for an expedition company that has inbuilt contingency days, a carry high, sleep low strategy, and a calm and patient ascent. Avoid expeditions that offer shorter itineraries, which – while tempting if you only have a certain amount of holiday leave from work – are detrimental to your success. (The exception to this rule is a true ‘speed ascent’ climb where you diligently preacclimatize at home.)

Everybody acclimatizes differently and how well you acclimatize can even vary from climb to climb. Be patient with yourself, be conservative, and make sure you take care of yourself (for instance, keeping a slow pace and keeping well hydrated).

Our CTSS Aconcagua guides our experts at high altitude pace setting and identifying signs and symptoms of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness, commonly known as altitude illness) to keep you safe.


Leadership

Look for guides who are seasoned experts with a strategy that is patient, conservative, and well planned to give you the best opportunity for success.

Guides on Aconcagua should be well qualified with excellent safety records.

They need to be adept at managing a team while troubleshooting and pivoting their plan and strategy to meet the conditions of the day. It is a given on Aconcagua that plans will change and having a seasoned guide who can work through that by leaning on their own extensive experience in the mountains is key.

Guides should also have a history of assisting climbers in navigating travel in Argentina and have a solid background support structure.

Our mountaineering guide staff are second to none, and our teams also always include our phenomenal local guides who have spent decades climbing and guiding on Aconcagua, speak Spanish fluently, and can share their generous Argentinian culture with you. Our local guides are the class of the mountain, meeting and exceeding the high expectations around safety and customer service that CTSS demands.

As operators on Aconcagua we strive to be the most forward thinking and best prepared outfit on the mountain.


Customization

As mountaineers ourselves, we know not every climber is the same and a ā€˜one size fits all approachā€™ doesnā€™t apply very well to big mountains like Aconcagua.

Look for an operator who will customize your expedition to suit your experience, time-frame, budget and goals.

For example, pressed for time? You can do a speed ascent and pre-acclimatize at home.

Fixed departure dates don’t suit you? Craft a custom trip around your own schedule.

Want a little more ‘rugged luxury’? Opt for our Aconcagua Executive expeditions to give yourself the edge in comfort, schedules, and amenities.

Want to work with a particular guide? No problem!

CTSS can make it happen.


Marginal Gains - The small things add up!

Have you heard of the ā€œMarginal Gainsā€ philosophy?

The idea is that by capitalising on every little hidden advantage – 1% here, 1% there – small gains quickly compound into a huge overall improvement.

CTSS prides itself on this kind of innovation across all of our expeditions including Aconcagua. We optimize both the big details like guide staff, schedules etc, all the way through to the tiny comfort details.

For instance we plan our expedition menus using local food which is hearty and delicious vs. eating dehydrated or basic camp meals because we know well fed climbers are happy, healthy climbers with more energy on summit day.

Itā€™s also why we invest in the nicest accommodations in base camp which include hot showers and free wifi, and provide hot drinks and other snacks to keep you energised and hydrated.

People may dismiss little luxuries as ā€˜softā€™ but we invest in them because they are highly strategic.


No D*ckheads - No offence, we just want to climb with good people

Successfully summiting the worldā€™s mightiest peaks requires more than just physical fitness. It also demands enormous mental strength, commitment, and most importantly, deep humility.

The ā€˜secret sauceā€™ to a great expedition is the people you share your experience with. When you have great people together in the mountains it is advantageous to everyoneā€™s safety, success, AND ultimate enjoyment. It can be the difference between success and failure.

Most operators never even bother getting to know their clients and will blindly accept anyone who pays the bill.

CTSS is selective of both our guide staff and our clients. We will only enrol climbers who we feel will be an asset to our team and regularly deny applicants.

This screening is not about fitness, age, skillset, previous climbing experience etc. (we can create individual plans to address those), itā€™s about character.

Itā€™s our goal to consciously craft a powerful, cohesive culture, and sense of belonging on all of our expeditions so that everyone can enjoy themselves in the mountains in a kind, responsible, and humble way.

If you are entitled or arenā€™t prepared to toe the line and be a good teammate, weā€™ll politely part ways.

We donā€™t mean to offend, we just want to climb with other like minded people who are willing to put in the work to achieve great things and become their best selves.

We think you probably do too.

Read more at https://climbingthesevensummits.com/ctss-policy/


Values & Philosophy

Does an operator have strong values?

This is sometimes a little harder to identify as itā€™s more a feeling than a sales pitch, but you should get a feel for a company through their little interactions, their care factor, their attention to detail, their corporate social responsibility, their environmental stewardship, their response to you.

Mountaineering can be high risk and stressful so pick an operator who has strong core values and a team mentality that aligns with yours so that when things get challenging you can rely on open lines of communication, knowing they will do what they can to support you.

It is this team cohesiveness that flows through to each individual climber and helps them stand on top.


Aconcagua

ACONCAGUAĀ  |Ā  South America


Price Range:

$6,995 USD

Elevation:

6,962m / 22,841ft

Duration:

15-21 Days

Difficulty:

Intermediate

Route:

False Polish Traverse

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Aconcagua is a mighty peak, proud climb and an unforgettable experience.

Standing 22,841 feet (6,962 meters) tall, Aconcagua is the second highest of the Seven Summits, the tallest peak in the world outside the Himalaya and the apex of both the Southern and Western Hemispheres.

A true test for any mountaineer, Aconcagua sits along the Andes spine roughly equal distance between the stunning South American towns of Mendoza, Argentina and Santiago, Chile. The mountain is a predominately arid, hot climate making for stable summer climbing with some snow and cramponing high on the peak.

Not to be underestimated, Aconcagua’s altitude, elevation gains and load carries make it a physical challenge similar to Denali, an amazing accomplishment for even the seasoned mountaineer.

Aconcagua summit

Expedition Highlights:

  • Stand on the highest summit in the Southern and Western Hemispheres.
  • Traverse the entire peak and see both sides of the mountain.
  • Join our arrieros (mule drivers) while they cook the traditional meal ā€œasadoā€ (BBQ meats, veggies, bread, and, of course, Argentinian wine) over an open fire and under the stars.
  • Watch the shadow of Aconcagua grow larger as the sun rises over the Andes on summit morning.
  • Test yourself at altitude as critical preparation for Denali and Everest.
  • Look down from the summit ridge on the mighty South Face, climbed by Reinhold Messner.

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The Seven Summits Series: Aconcagua

Aconcagua is one mountain you donā€™t want to underestimate. Fierce weather, extreme altitude, heavy load carries, and a lengthy expedition timeline make the journey to South Americaā€™s tallest peak a serious undertaking for any mountaineer.

If youā€™re ready to learn what it takes to summit the highest mountain in the world outside of the Himalayas, check out our webinar and Q&A session hosted by CTSS Owner Mike Hamill and Senior Guide Nani Stahringer. During this webinar, Mike and Nani will share how you can physically and mentally prepare for Aconcagua so you can set yourself up for greater success on the mountain.Ā 

Choosing the Right Option

Our Aconcagua climbs are run annually from mid-December through the end of February to take advantage of the best weather, favorable summit conditions, and strong on-mountain infrastructure. It is a fantastic expedition which is highly adaptable to fit your style and timeframe.

Choose from our ever popular “Aconcagua 360 Classic” for a time tested climb schedule, upgrade to the “Executive” option for increased support or look at our “Speed Ascent” options if time is a critical factor.

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Porter Support Add-On

Price: $1,750 USD

Many clients choose to use porters to facilitate their ascent of Aconcagua giving them a higher chance of success and making their climb much more enjoyable.

The trip price includes the cost of mules to transport the group’s gear into base camp, but not porters above base camp. Unlike on other mountains, porters on Aconcagua work for the on-mountain logistics companies rather than being attached directly to a particular expedition. If you would like a porter to assist in carrying your personal gear and share of the group gear, you may either hire them on an ad hoc basis during the climb or arrange their services in advance.

Please note, it isĀ less expensive to hire porters on the mountain than to arrange them in advance. If hiring porters on an ad hoc basis, all payments must be made in cash with US dollars on the day of the service provided. Booking ahead of time guarantees availability and eliminates the need to carry this large amount of cash during the climb.

A standard porter load is 20kg and charged at a flat rate up to that maximum weight (i.e., if you only have 17kg, you will still be charged the 20kg rate). Additional weight will be charged at a pro-rated amount per kilogram. It is important to note that using a porter will still leave you with some gear to carry. However, your pack will be closed to 10-14kg rather than 20-25kg for each carry and move.

If you want to make your climb easier, or you simply want to enjoy the climb more, hiring porters may be the right decision.


Single Rooming Supplement

Price: $1,000 USD

We are happy to organize single rooming accommodations in our hotels in Mendoza and Puente del Inca for you.

Having a single room helps climbers stay healthy and adds a bit of comfort and personal space that can go a long way on an expedition. If you would like a single rooming option, please let us know.

Please note that all tent accommodations are double-occupancy for weight, safety, and warmth.


Helicopter Exit - Plaza de Mulas to Horcones

Inquire for seasonal pricing

A helicopter exit from Plaza de Mulas to Horcones will save you the 18-mile hike back to the park entrance at the end of your climb. Because your date arriving into base camp can change and weather can prevent flights, helicopter exits will be scheduled upon your arrival, usually for later that same afternoon or the next morning. The helicopter operators accept only cash, in US dollars, on the mountain and require payment before departure from Plaza de Mulas. Pre-booking before your trip will help limit to amount of cash you need to carry throughout the expedition.

Aconcagua Gear Guide

Aconcagua Gear Checklist

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Will I be sharing a tent?
Yes, both at base camp and on the mountain. Tents are always shared on Aconcagua for safety at altitude, warmth, limited tent space on the mountain, and to reduce group gear weight for everyone. Please plan to share a tent with one of your fellow climbers and pack some ear plugs!

How heavy will my pack be?
In general, climbing packs on Aconcagua are moderately to quite heavy. You will likely be carrying 45lbs ā€“ 55lbs (20kg ā€“ 25kg) most of the time while climbing on the mountain and less on the trek into base camp, during which we are supported by mules. On the trek in, you only need to carry what you need for the trek that day which is generally only 15lbs (7kg).

If you are concerned about the heavy loads, please consider the option of hiring porters.

Will I need to purchase insurance?
Yes. Trip delay and cancellation, rescue, repatriation, medical insurance is mandatory for this program for your own benefit. We have seen too many times people need to cancel their trip either before, or during the expedition for reasons such as injury, health, family and business matters. With such a long trip and so much at stake, climbers need to be prepared for contingencies.

The Aconcagua Provincial Park authorities also requires each climber to carry insurance, which covers high-altitude activities, climbing, search and rescue, and evacuation. Please contact us if you need assistance finding an appropriate policy.

What is the food like on the climb?
In general, our food on and off the mountain is excellent. Mendoza is known for its food and wine. En route to base camp we will be eating ā€œasado,ā€ traditional Argentinean BBQ over an open fire that the muleteers make for us (vegetarian options are available). At base camp we have hired the services of first rate chefs. On the mountain, your guides will be cooking large, hearty meals that are tasty albeit a bit more rustic than in town. We can cater to most dietary requirements if given sufficient notice, so please let us know if you require accommodation.

What extra gear do I need for the traverse?
You will need light shoes that double as camp booties to bring up and over the mountain with you and for the long hike out of base camp the final day. Please also consider how you will carry your ā€˜day pack gearā€™ on the hike out. Many people use the top of their pack which is usually detachable and can turn into a hip belt which is ideal. If not, please bring a ultra-lightweight packable day pack.

How cold can it be on summit day?
Quite cold! Temperatures and weather on Aconcagua should not be underestimated. It would not be uncommon for summit day to include temperatures to -20F (-29C) or colder including windchill. You may get lucky and have mild temps, but each climber needs to be equipped with solid cold weather clothing.

Can I hire porters if I donā€™t buy the optional Porter Add-On?
Yes. Generally we can hire porters for the next day via radio if we know by dinner the day before. During busy times, availability may be limited so it is best to pre-book. Furthermore, porters are generally more expensive when booked at the time and charge incrementally higher prices the farther up the mountain you go. If you havenā€™t prebooked porters, be sure to bring extra funds in US dollars to hire them on the spot. Porters will charge a flat rate for up to 20Kg per carry. This is a good backup option for climbers who are getting over a stomach bug or arenā€™t feeling strong one day and need to conserve energy.

I heard that Aconcagua is like a bigger Kilimanjaro. Is that true?
Not really. While climbing Aconcagua doesnā€™t involve glaciers or technical climbing, itā€™s much more serious than a ā€œtaller Kilimanjaro.ā€ The length of the expedition, the weight of your pack, extreme altitude, and self sufficient expedition-style climbing combine to make Aconcagua a true big mountain experience.

How should I prepare for Aconcagua?
First, contact us! We love helping climbers achieve their dreams, thatā€™s what weā€™re here for.

To prepare for Aconcagua you should have already climbed a few mountains and be familiar with crampon and ice axe skills. Physical training is very important for success on Aconcagua. Start training at least 6 months before your expedition and focus on building endurance carrying a loaded pack up hill using trails or a Stairmaster.


Didn't find an answer to your question? Don't hesitate to ask us.


Free Expert Advice

When you sign up for an expedition, you become part of the CTSS family.

This means aĀ free consult with Mike Hamillā€”the author of Climbing the Seven Summitsā€”or one of his expert team.

Personalized strategy, progression planning, expert coaching, and advice on how to get the most out of your climbing journey!

6x Reasons to Choose CTSS


Safety

Your safety and success are our priorities in that order. We make conservative decisions, plan redundancies and all our guides have wilderness medical training, safety & rescue plans & access to doctors 24/7 to help keep you safe.

Value for $

We keep our overheads low to pass savings on to you. We are proud to offer the best service for the most competitive price, without skimping on safety or taking shortcuts with logistics, staffing and infrastructure.

Holistic Approach

Our service goes far beyond the mountain. Think of us as your climbing coach, weā€™ll be there from start to finish to prepare, debrief and plan your progression as a mountaineer, whether your goal is a single summit or the Seven.

Guides & Team

Guides can make or break your climb. We hand pick the most qualified, tenured, tested and personable guides and Sherpa in the world. Owner and mountaineer Mike Hamill personally oversees the management of each expedition.

Our Values

We care about you, our people and the planet and we walk our talk by donating a percentage of every expedition to Tiger of the Snows fund which supports outdoor tourism workers all over the world and following strict Leave No Trace principles amongst other initiatives.

Success

We have an unparalleled summit success rate. How? We do it in a myriad of ways; like a great chefā€™s secret sauce, we've fine tuned the recipe over decades but most importantly, we believe in you & your ability to achieve your goals and are invested in putting you on top.

ā€œI have climbed with CTSS on my past three expeditions. Mt Elbrus in 2019 and Aconcagua in 2020 and 2022. I want the total experience on an expedition, from the travel, the country, the people, the culture, and meeting like minded individuals. CTSS gets this and that is why I would highly recommend them for your next expedition.ā€œ

- Blaine C

Aconcagua Adventures


Testimonials

Aconcagua Inquiry Form



Summit of Aconcagua

...Aconcagua Summits!...

Word just came back from our guides on Aconcagua - Summit Success today!

It was a long, hard summit day on the highest peak outside of the Himalayas, but in the end the summit was reached.

The team is now back down at high camp getting a well earned nights sleep. Tomorrow they'll make their way back down to basecamp for a well deserved afternoon at R and R.

Congratulations to our Summiters!

-CTSS Team

Summit of Aconcagua
Summit of Aconcagua
Ascending the summit ridge
Ascending the summit ridge

Climbing high on Chimbo - Edgar Parra

...Ecuador team Wraps up...

Our Ecuador team wrapped up their climbing today with a solid push on Chimborazo. The team made the difficult call to turn just above 6000m after putting in a solid 8 hour effort pushing their way through a tough route.

Tonight they've dropped down to the town of BaƱos, well known for it's hot springs and beautiful scenery. That is exactly what makes Ecuador such a special place to climb. In the morning you're pushing your limits climbing at 6000m, and by evening you can be relaxing in a tropical paradise.

Well done to all for a fantastic trip to the Ecuador Volcanoes!

-CTSS Team

Mighty Chimborazo - Edgar Parra
Mighty Chimborazo - Edgar Parra
Break time! - Edgar Parra
Break time! - Edgar Parra
Chimborazo's shadow at sunrise - Edgar Parra
Chimborazo's shadow at sunrise - Edgar Parra
Climbing high on Chimbo - Edgar Parra
Climbing high on Chimbo - Edgar Parra

...Aconcagua Team Prepped for the Summit...

The check in today from Sasha and Nani was short and to the point:

"Got to Colera (camp 3). Everyone feels good. Weather is good. Will start at 4:00 AM"

They're ready! The team has spent a week working their way up from basecamp acclimatizing and putting gear in place for the summit bid. Tonight it will all come together as they make the final push from Camp 3 at 19,700 feet (6,000m) to the summit at 22,837 feet (6,961m).

Best of luck to the team as they climb tonight!

-CTSS Team

Camp 3 on Aconcagua

High on Cayambe - Edgar Parra

...Cayambe and Hot Springs...

The Ecuador team has made it back to Quito after a great few days in the mountains. Early Sunday morning they set off for the Summit of Cayambe, but unfortunately weather moved in and the summit wasn't in the cards that day. Still, the team put in a super effort, pushed as high on the mountain as possible, and made a great call to come down when the conditions began to deteriorate.

After their attempt on Cayambe it was off to the hot springs at Papallacta! A fantastic reward after over a week of acclimatizing and pushing hard in the mountains.

Tomorrow our team members on the normal itinerary will fly home, while those going for the Chimborazo extension will head south out of Quito and climb to high camp on Chimbo tomorrow afternoon.

Nice work all around!

-CTSS Team

Cayambe - Edgar Parra
Cayambe - Edgar Parra
High on Cayambe - Edgar Parra
High on Cayambe - Edgar Parra
Exiting the Glacier - Edgar Parra
Exiting the Glacier - Edgar Parra
Weather moving in - Edgar Parra
Weather moving in - Edgar Parra
Papallacta Hot Springs
Papallacta Hot Springs

Camp 2 - Robert Jantzen

...Aconcagua Team at Camp 2...

CTSS Lead Guide Sasha Sak called in via Sat phone with an update. The team moved into Camp 2 at 18,100 feet this afternoon and are feeling great! The guides are staying on top of the weather and have a game plan put together for their summit strategy.

Tomorrow the team will carry to Camp 3 in the morning and descend back to Camp 2 by early afternoon to rest the remainder of the day. On the 9th the current plan is to move to Camp 3, with February 10th as the target summit day. Guides Sasha and Nanika will keep an eye on the weather and adjust if needed, but for now the 10th is the target!

Good luck to the team as they wrap up the hard work of moving into position and switch focus to the summit climb.

-CTSS Team

Camp 2, Nido de Condores at 18,100 feet
Camp 2, Nido de Condores at 18,100 feet
Camp 2
Camp 2
Sunset from Camp 2
Sunset from Camp 2

... Ecuador: 100% Success on Cotopaxi...

The CTSS Ecuador team is celebrating a very successful climb of Cotopaxi, 100% of the team reached the summit early this morning.

Congratulations!!!

Cotopaxi is a tough climb, especially considering you're climbing to above 19,000 feet after being in at altitude for less than a week.

Tonight they're taking a well earned rest in the historical La Cienega hotel - one of the oldest buildings in the region. Tomorrow they'll drive to Cayambe for a rest day and begin focusing on their next objective.

-CTSS Team

Dawn, high on Cotopaxi - Edgar Parra
Dawn, high on Cotopaxi - Edgar Parra
Cotopaxi Summit Crater- Edgar Parra
Cotopaxi Summit Crater- Edgar Parra
On Route - Edgar Parra
On Route - Edgar Parra
Cotopaxi Summit! - Edgar Parra
Cotopaxi Summit! - Edgar Parra


...Aconcagua Team Ready to Climb...

The CTSS team on Aconcagua is ready to start climbing! The last few days have been filled with preparation and acclimatization. With a day of rest in basecamp finished, tomorrow the team loads the first heavy packs and makes the trek out of basecamp to camp 1.

They'll drop 8 days worth of group food and all their extra personal gear in a Cache at Camp 1 before dropping back to basecamp for the night.

Tomorrow, tents, sleeping gear, and any remaining gear they'll need for the climb will be carried up to camp 1, where the team will spend the next 2 nights.

-CTSS Team

Hiking to Plaza de Mulas - Sasha Sak
Hiking to Plaza de Mulas - Sasha Sak
Break on the trail - Nanika Stahringer
Break on the trail - Nanika Stahringer
Basecamp! Plaza de Mulas - Nanika Stahringer
Basecamp! Plaza de Mulas - Nanika Stahringer

Aconcagua's dramatic South Face - Robert Jantzen

...Aconcagua Team to Basecamp...

Our team on Aconcagua has been making steady progress.

After entering the park and hiking to Confluencia the team has spent 2 nights acclimatizing in Camp. Yesterday the team hiked to Plaza Francia at 14,000 feet to help their bodies adjust and prepare for the move to basecamp. From Plaza Francia they were treated to one of the most spectacular sights in the entire park - Aconcagua's dramatic South Face.

Today the team is on its way to basecamp at Plaza de Mulas. It's a long day and tonight they'll be sleeping at over 14,000 feet. The acclimatization days at Confluencia will show their benefit as they hike higher today and spend tomorrow preparing for the true climbing to begin.

-CTSS Team

Aconcagua's dramatic South Face - Robert Jantzen
Aconcagua's dramatic South Face - Robert Jantzen
Confluencia Camp - Robert Jantzen
Confluencia Camp - Robert Jantzen
Mules passing on the Hike to Plaza de Mulas - Robert Jantzen
Mules passing on the Hike to Plaza de Mulas - Robert Jantzen
Today's destination - Plaza de Mulas basecamp - Robert Jantzen
Today's destination - Plaza de Mulas basecamp - Robert Jantzen