Western Guided Team Climb
$74,995 USD
Annually; March 30th – May 27th (58 days)
Pros:
- World class Western/International Everest Guide who meets you in Kathmandu and stays with you throughout entire expedition including Lobuche climb
- Higher degree of personal service
- Higher degree of safety
- Benefit of an additional Personal Sherpa on your Summit Bid
- Pre-climb ladder and climbing refresher clinics
- High degree of team camaraderie, shared meals etc with your guide.
- Incredibly good value for money
Cons:
- Less personal attention than on a private 1:1 climb
This classic Mt. Everest guided climb is season after season our most popular option.
It is well suited to climbers who would like the higher service level “Western style” guidance and are competent, confident, and team orientated climbers. This option is often reported as the most fun & enjoyable climb because of the camaraderie and sense of community with their fellow climbers and year in, year out achieves fantastic summit success.
The Western Guided Team is guided by a Senior, world class mountain guide. A consummate professional who is genuine, caring, inspiring, strong, technically solid, and cool-headed. They will have previous 8000m climbing experience and a time tested, impressive resume.
To complement your team climb you will also be assigned an additional Personal Sherpa on the summit bid to increase your safety and account for any turn arounds without impacting your opportunity for success.
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal, where we obtain our climbing permits before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley to trek to Everest base camp. Our climb ends in Kathmandu. We suggest you book a flexible return airfare.
- Mar 30 Team Arrives
- Mar 31 KTM Day
- Apr 1 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 2 Trek to Namche
- Apr 3 Rest
- Apr 4 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 5 Rest
- Apr 6 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Lobuche base camp
- Apr 9 Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 10 Move to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 11 Acclimatize
- Apr 12 Summit and descend Lobuche BC
- Apr 13 Trek to EBC
- Apr 14 Rest
- Apr 15 Rest
- Apr 16 Train/Acclimatise
- Apr 17 Rest/Pack for rotation 1
- Apr 18 Climb to C1
- Apr 19 Climb to C2 and retrun to C1
- Apr 20 Descend to base camp
- Apr 21 Rest
- Apr 22 Hike to Pumori
- Apr 23 Rest
- Apr 24 Climb to C1
- Apr 25 Climb to C2
- Apr 26 Climb above C2
- Apr 27 Climb to C3 and descend to C2
- Apr 28 Descend to base camp
- Apr 29 Rest
- Apr 30 Rest
- May 1 Rest
- May 2 Rest
- May 3 To C1
- May 4 To C2
- May 5 To C3
- May 6 To C4
- May 7 Summit and descend to C2
- May 8 Descend to base camp
- May 9 Rest
- May 10 Pack up base camp
- May 11 Trek to Pheriche
- May 12 Trek to Namche
- May 13 Trek to Lukla
- May 14 Fly to KTM
- May 15 Fly Home
- May 16 Contingency
- May 17 Contingency
- May 18 Contingency
- May 19 Contingency
- May 20 Contingency
- May 21 Contingency
- May 22 Contingency
- May 23 Contingency
- May 24 Contingency
- May 25 Contingency
- May 26 Contingency
- May 27 Contingency
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list of inclusions/exclusions so you know what to expect.
Included in the Western Guided Team Everest Climb:
- A highly experienced 'Western' Climbing Guide with prior Everest summits (meets you in Kathmandu and guides you throughout the entire expedition)
- Leadership, strategy, climbing oversight by Everest Expedition Leader including full support for a summit attempt
- Climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Everest climbing permit
- Domestic flights to and from Lukla
- In country transport associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Accommodation in Nepal including hotels and teahouses
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Oxygen system and oxygen
- Lobuche East peak training and acclimatization climb
- CTSS Base Camp setup and tent accommodation
- Access to medical and communications gear
- High mountain camp infrastructure and logistics (Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4)
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the Western Guided Team Everest Climb:
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport, Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries etc
- Personal sundries including but not limited to; non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees
- Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs - Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition including contingencies days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
Private Tendi Sherpa Guided Climb
Tendi Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025/2026
Annually; April 1st – May 31 (58 days)
This is your once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to climb with legendary Mt. Everest guide Tendi Sherpa!
Tendi is arguably the best Guide (Sherpa or non Sherpa) on Mt. Everest not just because of his vast experience and technical ability but because of his leadership, safety conscience, strength, work ethic, humility and instinct.
A 17X Everest summiteer, Tendi Sherpa is a fully IFMGA (internationally certified) guide, world-class mountaineer, our CTSS Sirdar (Lead Sherpa) Director of the “Tendi Guide Foundation”, author, husband and father, to name just a few.
The hardest part of this expedition is getting in quick enough to secure Tendi as your private guide as every season he is in huge demand. If you would like to get to know Tendi we can arrange for you to speak with him personally. We know that you will be as impressed as we are.
Tendi will meet you at Lobuche Base Camp ready for your Lobuche climb. (Don’t worry, you will still be met by one of our team/Guides in Kathmandu and guided by CTSS during your trek to meet Tendi)
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal, where we obtain our climbing permits before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley to trek to Everest base camp. Our climb ends in Kathmandu. We suggest you book a flexible return airfare.
- Apr 1 Arrive in Kathmandu
- Apr 2 KTM Day
- Apr 3 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 4 Trek to Namche
- Apr 5 Rest
- Apr 6 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 9 Rest
- Apr 10 Trek to Lobuche base camp
- Apr 11 Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 12 Move to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 13 Acclimatize
- Apr 14 Summit and descend Lobuche BC
- Apr 15 Trek to EBC
- Apr 16 Rest
- Apr 17 Rest
- Apr 18 Train/acclimatise
- Apr 19 Rest/Pack for first rotation
- Apr 20 Climb to C1
- Apr 21 Climb towards C2 rturn to C1
- Apr 22 Descend to base camp
- Apr 23 Rest
- Apr 24 Hike to Pumori
- Apr 25 Rest
- Apr 26 Climb to C1
- Apr 27 Climb to C2
- Apr 28 Climb above C2
- Apr 29 Climb to C3 and descend to C2
- Apr 30 Descend to base camp
- May 1 Rest
- May 2 Rest
- May 3 Rest
- May 4 Rest
- May 5 To C1
- May 6 To C2
- May 7 To C3
- May 8 To C4
- May 9 Summit and descend to C2
- May 10 Descend to base camp
- May 11 Rest
- May 12 Pack up base camp
- May 13 Trek to Pheriche
- May 14 Trek to Namche
- May 15 Trek to Lukla
- May 16 Fly to KTM
- May 17 Fly Home
- May 18 Contingency
- May 19 Contingency
- May 20 Contingency
- May 21 Contingency
- May 22 Contingency
- May 23 Contingency
- May 24 Contingency
- May 25 Contingency
- May 26 Contingency
- May 27 Contingency
- May 28 Contingency
- May 29 Contingency
- May 30 Contingency
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list of inclusions/exclusions so you know what to expect.
Included in the Private Tendi Sherpa Everest Climb:
- Private Everest climb with Tendi Sherpa
- Leadership, strategy, climbing oversight by Everest Expedition Leader including full support for a summit attempt
- Climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Everest climbing permit
- Domestic flights to and from Lukla
- In country transport associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Accommodation in Nepal including hotels and teahouses
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Oxygen system and oxygen
- Lobuche East peak training and acclimatization climb (please note you will climb with the wider Everest team on Lobuche as your personal Sherpa will meet you at Base Camp)
- CTSS Base Camp setup and tent accommodation
- Access to medical and communications gear
- High mountain camp infrastructure and logistics (Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4)
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the Private Tendi Sherpa Everest Climb
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport, Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries etc
- Personal sundries including but not limited to; non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees
- Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs - Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition including contingencies days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
Private 1:1 Sherpa Guided Climb
Starts from $69,995 USD (Contact Us for Individual Pricing)
Annually; April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
Pros:
- 1:1 Private Guide
- High degree of autonomy and independence
- Highly affordable and incredibly good value for money
- Higher degree of safety and unparalleled oversight
- Pre-climb ladder and climbing clinics
Cons:
- Less camaraderie than team environment
- Guide doesn’t necessarily meet you until you reach Lobuche (you will be on guided on trek with broader team)
- Possible Language/Cultural barrier
This is one of our most popular climb options for good reason as it offers the benefit of having your own, private, highly experienced, fully internationally certified Mountain Guide but at an unbeatable Everest price. These are the finest Sherpa in the business having climbed extensively in the Himalaya and around the world but with an added level of rigorous, international training and qualification than many of their peers.
This option is well suited for participants who want the oversight, safety, and personal attention of a skilled guide and the autonomy of being on a private trip at an unbeatable price.
Our Sherpa Guide Team are a trusted part of our team and are more like family. Having been with us for years (and will be with us for many more) we believe wholeheartedly in their leadership and expertise. These are world class climbers and guides who are knowledgeable, kind, strong, experienced, respectful, and very proficient.
Below is a snapshot of our Sherpa Guide team for you to choose from but feel free to discuss this with us as we will work with you to pair you with the right fit for your experience level and personality.
Your private Sherpa Guide will meet you at Lobuche Base Camp ready for your Lobuche climb and remain with you throughout the entire Everest climb as well as being available for refresher training. (Don’t worry, you will be met in Kathmandu and guided for your trek to Lobuche)
Climbers need to have a solid base of experience and proven climbing skills to qualify for this program. If you are unsure, please feel free to discuss your experience level with us.
Tendi Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025/2026
Annually; April 1st – May 31 (58 days)
This is your once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to climb with legendary Mt. Everest guide Tendi Sherpa!
Tendi is arguably the best Guide (Sherpa or non Sherpa) on Mt. Everest not just because of his vast experience and technical ability but because of his leadership, safety conscience, strength, work ethic, humility and instinct.
A 17X Everest summiteer, Tendi Sherpa is a fully IFMGA (internationally certified) guide, world-class mountaineer, our CTSS Sirdar (Lead Sherpa) Director of the “Tendi Guide Foundation”, author, husband and father, to name just a few.
The hardest part of this expedition is getting in quick enough to secure Tendi as your private guide as every season he is in huge demand. If you would like to get to know Tendi we can arrange for you to speak with him personally. We know that you will be as impressed as we are.
Tendi will meet you at Lobuche Base Camp ready for your Lobuche climb. (Don’t worry, you will still be met by one of our team/Guides in Kathmandu and guided by CTSS during your trek to meet Tendi)
Big Tendi Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025/2026
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 3x Everest summits having guided 17x clients successfully to the top
- Technical Director for Nepal Mountain Guide Association representing Nepal all over the world
- Veteran mountain guide
- A tenured climbing instructor who has literally taught a generation of Sherpa
- Guided well over 100 mountains around the world including Everest, peaks in France & Italy and climbed and guided in over 30 countries around the world.
- Partner in our local logistics company
Ashish Gurung Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025/2026
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- Numerous 8,000m summits, including 4x Everest/2x Lhotse
- Countless 6000-7000m peaks including 3x Ama Dablam, Mera, Robche etc
- One of the most patient, kind and caring Guides paired with huge work ethic and expertise
- Has high mountain rescue, wilderness first aid qualifications
- Is a skilled photographer with formal photography training
- Bi-lingual speaks Japanese and English.
Phunjo Lama Guided Climb 1:1
Everest Speed Record Holder
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 2x Everest Speed Record Holder! First set in 2018 and reclaimed in 2024, she climbed from Base Camp to Summit in 14 hours and 31 minutes
- 4x 8000m summits including climbing Cho Oyu without supplemental oxygen
- First and only female long-line helicopter rescuer in Nepal
- Goodwill Ambassador for Nepal
- Has climbed Manaslu, Denali, Aconcagua, Ama Dablam and Lobuche
- A mother of two, she grew up as a yak herder on the slopes of Ganesh Himal
- Humble, proud, Phunjo holds high expectations for herself and equally her climbers to be well prepared and ready
- Speaks fantastic English
- Is one of CTSS’ brightest stars. Read more about Phunjo HERE
Migma Dorjee Guided Climb 1:1
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 14x Everest summiteer!
- 8x Cho Oyu, 1x Lhotse, 1x Makalu, 1x Manaslu, 1x Pumori, 2x Puta Hiuchuli, 2x Mt Nandadevi East , India
- Uncountable 6000m peaks
- Hardworking, trustworthy and a pleasure to climb with
- Migma’s deep experience is unparalleled, he is a true gem in our guiding team
Dawa Yolmo Guided Climb 1:1
(Aspirant IFMGA Guide)
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 2 x Everest Summits in 2023/2024, Dhaulagiri, 3x Ama Dablam expeditions and many 6000m peaks
- Fully IFMGA certified, started guiding in 2012
- Bachelor Degree in Travel & Tourism & a Masters in Business Studies
- Speaks English and Italian
- Always smiling, such a positive, happy energy. He is as solid as they come, trustworthy, smart and capable.
- Good communicator, good English, slightly on the quieter side.
- A staff favorite
Naren Shahi Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025/2026
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- Numerous 8,000m summits, including 5x Everest/1x Manaslu
- Countless 6000m peaks including 3x Ama Dablam, Cholatse, Island Peak, Mera, Elbrus etc
- Has high mountain rescue, helicopter high line rescue and first aid qualifications
- Is the Technical Director of the Nepal Mountain Guide Association and Executive Board Member of Nepal Mountaineering Instructor Association
- Has guided extensively for 2 decades in the Himalaya, Europe and USA
- Speaks English, German and French
- Understudied Casey Grom and has a detail orientated Western style of guiding.
- Is fun, energetic, confident, kind, understanding and very self motivated. A true client favourite.
“Naren raises the bar on guiding. He is highly professional, technically brilliant and takes a proactive approach to climbing. Because of his experience, skill and instruction, I felt prepared, confident and safe during my Entire Everest climb. I especially appreciate the time Naren takes to educate his clients and take them to the next level of their climbing career. It makes sense, since he is a technical director of IFMGA. Climbing with him for a 2nd year, I’ve been lucky enough to see him in action repairing anchors and lines throughout the ice. He is not only an asset to CTSS, but to everyone on that mountain. He remains calm in chaos and has a solution for every situation. His opinion is highly respected and constantly sought out by others on the mountain. Not only do you get the best in technical guiding, but a rich experience in culture. I call him the mayor of the Khumbu Valley, because he knows everyone, and makes you feel a part of his community and family. I would climb with Naren any place, anytime. I am truly honored to have learned from one of the best on the ice!” – Meghan Buchanan, Everest Summiteer, 2022
Thunang Bhote Guided Climb 1:1
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 9 x Everest summits! 2x Lhotse, 5x Manaslu!
- One of the most experienced guides on the mountain, has also guided 4x Himlung Himal & Annapurna IV
- Is one of the strongest, most competent, confident members of our guide team
- Is mature, calm, humble and while somewhat quiet, has a great personality.
- A client favorite
Pega Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1
(Aspirant IFMGA Guide)
BOOKED FOR 2025/2026
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 13x 8000m expeditions including:
- 9x Everest expedition (7x summits)
- 2x Cho Oyu Summits
- 2 x Lhotse Summit
- Multiple Putha Hiunchuli, Baruntse, Lobuche, Island Peak, Mera, Yal, Khangla expeditions.
- Pega has guided as a Trekking Guide most of the Himalayan range including Everest, Annapurna, Langtang, Rolwaling, Manang, Mustang, Manaslu, Dolpa etc
- Has a Bachelors degree in Social Work
- Is a climbing instructor at the Khumbu Climbing Centre and has completed both Basic and Advanced climbing courses with KCC
- Completed Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) (Basic & Advanced) courses
- Certified Rigging for Rescue Course RFR in the USA,
- Wilderness First Responder certification with University of New Mexico.
“Pega’s attention to detail with clear and concise communication ensured we were an effective team. Continually alert to safety considerations, he did not “follow the herd” but considered optimal routes for my capabilities. I am now a much better climber thanks to Pega’s patient coaching. Pega’s competence in handling my evacuation due to unanticipated health issues, was exemplary. If you climb with Pega you will be in safe hands with world class expertise. He can also teach you a few magic tricks and plays a mean game of ping-pong.” – Everest Climber 2024
Dawa Jangbu Guided Climb 1:1
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 3 x Everest summits (2019/2023/2024) in 2024 he returned to 8,516m to assist, almost climbing twice in a season!)
- Has been a NATHM Rock climbing Instructor since 2012
- Started as a trekking guide in 2009 before transitioning to a high altitude mountain guide in 2011.
- Has 2x summits of Ama Dablam, 6x Island Peak and countless other 6,000m peaks.
- Has mountain rescue qualifications
- Is dedicated, a natural and enthusiastic teacher, is very eager and motivated to excel and not afraid of hard work.
Manraj Gurung Guided Climb 1:1
(Aspirant IFMGA Guide)
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- Started guiding in 2009
- Highly educated with a Masters in Business Studies and a Masters in Buddhism and Himalayan Studies
- Instructor for Nepal Mountain Academy
- Has qualifications in wilderness first aid, avalanche and mountain rescue
- One of our top private guides on Ama Dablam, Himlung, Mera, Island Peak, Lobuche
- Is moving to Everest guiding in 2025, and is priced accordingly so incredible value for such a great guide.
“I want to put in a great word for Man Raj Gurung. He was the perfect guide for me, exhibiting calm, attentive professionalism. I appreciated his cultural and Buddhist knowledge and perspective and we had many great conversations along the journey which elevated the experience for me. Great, dedicated climber as well. I would highly recommend him” – Michael S, Ama Dablam 24 climber
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1
AVAILABLE FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 4 x Everest Summits,
- Climbed high on Makalu with a Japanese team
- Speaks English, conversational Japanese, and Hindi
- Has multiple summits of Ama Dablam, Island Peak, Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak etc
- Has mountain rescue, first aid and rock climbing qualifications
- Is positive, patient and has an impressive work ethic.
- We are impressed with his leadership skills and energy
Pasang Tendi Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1 BOOKED FOR 2025
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
Annually; April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- Multiple 8000m Summiteer
- 5x Everest Summits
- 1x Lhotse Summit
- 1 x Annapurna 1 Summit
- 1 x Shishapangma Summit
- Over 25x Himalayan 6-7,000m peaks including 2x Ama Dablam summits
- Multiple Aconcagua Summits including Polish Glacier summits)
- A client favorite! (By far one of the nicest, most humble personalities you will come across paired with climbing prowess and expertise)
- Nepal Mountaineering Association instructor since 2019
- Guides and climbs throughout the Himalaya, Europe and the USA
Sajjan Ghale Guided Climb 1:1
(Aspirant IFMGA Guide)
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 4x 8000m summits including, 2 x Everest (2022/2024) K2 (2024) Manaslu (2021)
- Is an Aspirant IFMGA Guide (2 years until completion)
- Has 2x summits of Himulung (2022/2023)
- Has mountain rescue, first aid qualifications
- Speaks both French and English
- Young, strong, confident, and friendly. He is motivated to excel and be the best guide he can be
- A staff favorite
Abiral Rai Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- 3 x Everest expeditions (2x summits in 2023/2024) & 1x to 8,500m)
- Is one of the Lead Instructors for the Nepali IFMGA program teaching a generation of Guides
- Has 5x guided summits of Ama Dablam, 2x Buruntse, 3x Peak Lenin in Tajikistan and many 7000/6000m peaks
- Has mountain rescue, first aid and ski qualifications
- Is confident, a natural leader, eager, motivated to excel and be the best guide he can be
- A client and staff favorite
Dorjee Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025
April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- Guided 6x 8000m expeditions including
- Everest (4x) with 3x summits
- Lhotse (1x summit)
- Manaslu (1x summit)
- Island Peak (15x!) Ama Dablam (3x) Lobuche (10x) Mera Peak (7x) Pisang (2x)
- Accomplished trekking guide having guided the GHT twice! and through most of Nepal
- Mountain Rescue Instructor, rock climbing instructor
- Nepal Medal of Gallantry recipient
- Board Member for Sherpa for Change, Member of the Nepal Climbing Team
- Confident, ability to take initiative and emotionally intelligent
- Dorjee is a quick decision maker, adaptable and receptive to feedback. A huge asset to our team.
Lam Babu Sherpa Guided Climb 1:1
(Fully Internationally IFMGA Certified)
BOOKED FOR 2025
Annually; April 1 – May 29 (58 days)
- Multiple Everest summiteer with 30+ years of experience
- Our most senior private IFMGA Sherpa Guide
- Tenured Instructor for the Nepal Mountaineering Association & Guide School
- Has worked as a Sirdar (Lead Sherpa) for many Everest expeditions
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal, where we obtain our climbing permits before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley to trek to Everest base camp. Our climb ends in Kathmandu. We suggest you book a flexible return airfare.
- Apr 1 Arrive in Kathmandu
- Apr 2 KTM Day
- Apr 3 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 4 Trek to Namche
- Apr 5 Rest
- Apr 6 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 9 Rest
- Apr 10 Trek to Lobuche base camp
- Apr 11 Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 12 Move to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 13 Acclimatize
- Apr 14 Summit and descend Lobuche BC
- Apr 15 Trek to EBC
- Apr 16 Rest
- Apr 17 Rest
- Apr 18 Train/acclimatise
- Apr 19 Rest/Pack for first rotation
- Apr 20 Climb to C1
- Apr 21 Climb towards C2 rturn to C1
- Apr 22 Descend to base camp
- Apr 23 Rest
- Apr 24 Hike to Pumori
- Apr 25 Rest
- Apr 26 Climb to C1
- Apr 27 Climb to C2
- Apr 28 Climb above C2
- Apr 29 Climb to C3 and descend to C2
- Apr 30 Descend to base camp
- May 1 Rest
- May 2 Rest
- May 3 Rest
- May 4 Rest
- May 5 To C1
- May 6 To C2
- May 7 To C3
- May 8 To C4
- May 9 Summit and descend to C2
- May 10 Descend to base camp
- May 11 Rest
- May 12 Pack up base camp
- May 13 Trek to Pheriche
- May 14 Trek to Namche
- May 15 Trek to Lukla
- May 16 Fly to KTM
- May 17 Fly Home
- May 18 Contingency
- May 19 Contingency
- May 20 Contingency
- May 21 Contingency
- May 22 Contingency
- May 23 Contingency
- May 24 Contingency
- May 25 Contingency
- May 26 Contingency
- May 27 Contingency
- May 28 Contingency
- May 29 Contingency
- May 30 Contingency
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list of inclusions/exclusions so you know what to expect.
Included in the Private 1:1 Sherpa Guided Everest Climb:
- A private 1:1 Sherpa guide for entire Everest climb
- Leadership, strategy, climbing oversight by Everest Expedition Leader including full support for a summit attempt
- Climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Everest climbing permit
- Domestic flights to and from Lukla
- In country transport associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Accommodation in Nepal including hotels and teahouses
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Oxygen system and oxygen
- Lobuche East peak training and acclimatization climb
- CTSS Base Camp setup and tent accommodation
- Access to medical and communications gear
- High mountain camp infrastructure and logistics (Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4)
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the Private 1:1 Sherpa Guided Everest Climb:
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport, Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries etc
- Personal sundries including but not limited to; non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees
- Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs - Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition including contingencies days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
IFMGA Sherpa Team Climb
$59,995 USD
Annually; April 3 – May 31 (58 Days);
1:5 max Sherpa Guide:Client Ratio
Pros:
- Comradery of the team
- Highly affordable
- Skilled and certified Nepali Guidance
- Pre-climb ladder and climbing clinics
Cons:
- Shared personal attention (1 guide: max of 4 climbers)
- Possible Language/Cultural barrier
The IFMGA Sherpa Team Climb is ideal for the experienced mountaineer who is confident in their ability and comfortable to rely on their own skillset to keep their expedition costs low but is still looking for the advantages, oversight and safety of working with a professional, fully internationally certified Mountain Guide.
This option will see you climbing in a small team of other experienced climbers (maximum 1: 4 Sherpa Guide: Client Ratio) led by one of our hand picked, highly qualified IFMGA Sherpa Guides (who will also be available to conduct group refresher skills clinics)
This option further includes the benefit of an additional Personal Sherpa with you above Camp 2 on the Summit Rotation, oversight and assistance of our Everest Expedition Leader throughout, support from our group Sherpa team to assist with load carries during all acclimatization rotations and full access to CTSS’ logistics.
Climbers need to have solid climbing skills and have experience above 7,000m (Aconcagua is ok) or preferrably 8,000m and should be familiar with a high-altitude oxygen and mask system.
Note: This program will not run with less than 3 climbers.
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal, where we obtain our climbing permits before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley to trek to Everest base camp. Our climb ends in Kathmandu. We suggest you book a flexible return airfare.
- Apr 3 Team Arrives
- Apr 4 KTM Day
- Apr 5 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 6 Trek to Namche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 9 Rest
- Apr 10 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 11 Rest
- Apr 12 Trek to Lobuche base camp
- Apr 13 Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 14 Move to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 15 Acclimatize
- Apr 16 Summit and descend Lobuche BC
- Apr 17 Trek to EBC
- Apr 18 Rest
- Apr 19 Rest
- Apr 20 Train/acclimatise
- Apr 21 Rest/Pack for first rotation
- Apr 22 Climb to C1
- Apr 23 Climb towards C2 rturn to C1
- Apr 24 Descend to base camp
- Apr 25 Rest
- Apr 26 Hike to Pumori
- Apr 27 Rest
- Apr 28 Climb to C1
- Apr 29 Climb to C2
- Apr 30 Climb above C2
- May 1 Climb to C3 and descend to C2
- May 2 Descend to base camp
- May 3 Rest
- May 4 Rest
- May 5 Rest
- May 6 Rest
- May 7 To C1
- May 8 To C2
- May 9 To C3
- May 10 To C4
- May 11 Summit and descend to C2
- May 12 Descend to base camp
- May 13 Rest
- May 14 Pack up base camp
- May 15 Trek to Pheriche
- May 16 Trek to Namche
- May 17 Trek to Lukla
- May 18 Fly to KTM
- May 19 Fly Home
- May 20 Contingency
- May 21 Contingency
- May 22 Contingency
- May 23 Contingency
- May 24 Contingency
- May 25 Contingency
- May 26 Contingency
- May 27 Contingency
- May 28 Contingency
- May 29 Contingency
- May 30 Contingency
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list of inclusions/exclusions so you know what to expect.
Included in the IFMGA Sherpa Team Everest Climb:
- IFMGA (Internationally certified) Everest Sherpa Guide 1:4 for your team for entire Everest climb
- Additional Personal Sherpa above Camp 2 on the summit rotation
- Leadership, strategy, climbing oversight by Everest Expedition Leader including full support for a summit attempt
- Climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Everest climbing permit
- Domestic flights to and from Lukla
- In country transport associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Accommodation in Nepal including hotels and teahouses
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Oxygen system and oxygen
- Lobuche East peak training and acclimatization climb
- CTSS Base Camp setup and tent accommodation
- Access to medical and communications gear
- High mountain camp infrastructure and logistics (Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4)
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the IFMGA Sherpa Team Everest Climb:
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport, Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries etc
- Personal sundries including but not limited to; non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees
- Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs - Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition including contingencies days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
Personal Sherpa Climb
$58,995 USD
April 3 – May 31 (58 Days)
Pros:
- High degree of autonomy and independence
- Highly affordable
- Recognises past skillset and qualifications as a mountaineer
- 1:1 climbing partner during entire climb from Base Camp to the Summit and on each rotation. (You will likely be partnered with multiple Sherpa companion climbers from rotation to rotation, giving you the opportunity to figure out who you climb best with, so you can partner with them on the summit push)
- Pre-climb ladder and climbing clinics
Cons:
- No professional guidance and therefore higher risk
- Personal Sherpa are more of a climbing companion and less of a ‘guide’ and have fewer qualifications than IFMGA, Western Guide or Private Guides.
- Limited Everest specific Guide knowledge
- Less camaraderie
- Possible Language/Cultural barrier
- Personal Sherpa doesn’t climb Lobuche
The Personal Sherpa Climb is a 1:1 climb that offers you the benefit of self directed climbing with the safety and personal attention of having a Sherpa companion climber with you (This option differs from the ‘Sherpa Supported Climb’ option which only partners you with a companion climber on the summit rotation.
This option is well suited to self sufficient climbers who want autonomy, have a high level of competence in the mountains and are familiar with using high altitude oxygen systems.
This option also includes the oversight and assistance of our Everest Expedition Leader throughout your expedition, support from our group Sherpa team to assist with load carries and full access to CTSS’ logistics.
On this option, you will meet the Sherpas who you will climb with at base camp. (Don’t worry, you will be met by one of our team/Guides in Kathmandu and guided by CTSS during your trek and Lobuche climb too)
*Please note, this option is 1:1 companion climb, meaning someone will always be with you, but it is important to note it may not be the same person from rotation to rotation.
The Sherpa share load carrying work and the joy of climbing with you equitably amongst their team. The benefit of this; is it allows you to figure out who you climb best with, and select them as your summit rotation companion climber.
When you are resting at base camp or on the Lobuche East peak acclimatization climb, the whole Sherpa team will be ferrying loads to the upper camps.
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal, where we obtain our climbing permits before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley to trek to Everest base camp. Our climb ends in Kathmandu. We suggest you book a flexible return airfare.
- Apr 3 Team Arrives
- Apr 4 KTM Day
- Apr 5 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 6 Trek to Namche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 9 Rest
- Apr 10 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 11 Rest
- Apr 12 Trek to Lobuche base camp
- Apr 13 Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 14 Move to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 15 Acclimatize
- Apr 16 Summit and descend Lobuche BC
- Apr 17 Trek to EBC
- Apr 18 Rest
- Apr 19 Rest
- Apr 20 Train/acclimatise
- Apr 21 Rest/Pack for first rotation
- Apr 22 Climb to C1
- Apr 23 Climb towards C2 rturn to C1
- Apr 24 Descend to base camp
- Apr 25 Rest
- Apr 26 Hike to Pumori
- Apr 27 Rest
- Apr 28 Climb to C1
- Apr 29 Climb to C2
- Apr 30 Climb above C2
- May 1 Climb to C3 and descend to C2
- May 2 Descend to base camp
- May 3 Rest
- May 4 Rest
- May 5 Rest
- May 6 Rest
- May 7 To C1
- May 8 To C2
- May 9 To C3
- May 10 To C4
- May 11 Summit and descend to C2
- May 12 Descend to base camp
- May 13 Rest
- May 14 Pack up base camp
- May 15 Trek to Pheriche
- May 16 Trek to Namche
- May 17 Trek to Lukla
- May 18 Fly to KTM
- May 19 Fly Home
- May 20 Contingency
- May 21 Contingency
- May 22 Contingency
- May 23 Contingency
- May 24 Contingency
- May 25 Contingency
- May 26 Contingency
- May 27 Contingency
- May 28 Contingency
- May 29 Contingency
- May 30 Contingency
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list of inclusions/exclusions so you know what to expect.
Included in the Personal Sherpa Everest Climb:
- Personal climbing Sherpa for entire Everest climb
- Leadership, strategy, climbing oversight by Everest Expedition Leader including full support for a summit attempt
- Climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Everest climbing permit
- Domestic flights to and from Lukla
- In country transport associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Accommodation in Nepal including hotels and teahouses
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Oxygen system and oxygen
- Lobuche East peak training and acclimatization climb (please note you will climb with the wider Everest team on Lobuche as your personal Sherpa will meet you at Base Camp)
- CTSS Base Camp setup and tent accommodation
- Access to medical and communications gear
- High mountain camp infrastructure and logistics (Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4)
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the Personal Sherpa Everest Climb:
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport, Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries etc
- Personal sundries including but not limited to; non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees
- Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs - Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition including contingencies days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
Sherpa Supported Climb
$54,995 USD
Annually; April 3 – May 31 (58 Days)
Pros:
- High degree of autonomy and independence
- Highly affordable
- Recognises past skillset and qualifications as a mountaineer
- Gives access to CTSS logistics but maintains independence as a climber
Cons:
- Personal Sherpa assistance only above Camp 2 on the summit bid
- No Professional Guidance and therefore higher risk
- Less comradery as climbing mostly alone
- Lack of Everest specific knowledge (unless you have climbed high on Everest previously)
- Possible language/cultural barriers
- Personal Sherpa have less qualification than IFMGA, Western Guide or Private Guides
- No refresher training
The Sherpa Supported Climb is designed for the highly experienced mountaineer. These are climbers who are qualified to, and prefer, climbing autonomously but are looking for logistical support and expedition oversight.
This option will see you climbing fully independently until the summit rotation when you will be partnered with a personal Sherpa above Camp 2.
Throughout the expedition, you will have full access to CTSS logistics, the support of our Everest Expedition Leader in advising you, support from our Sherpa team throughout the expedition to assist you with your load carries.
If you are interested in this option please contact us to see if you qualify.
This is a sample itinerary only. Your actual daily schedule will be strategically planned to account for the best weather and summit windows etc. We begin our expedition in Kathmandu, Nepal, where we obtain our climbing permits before flying to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley to trek to Everest base camp. Our climb ends in Kathmandu. We suggest you book a flexible return airfare.
- Apr 3 Team Arrives
- Apr 4 KTM Day
- Apr 5 Fly to Lukla/Phakding
- Apr 6 Trek to Namche
- Apr 7 Rest
- Apr 8 Trek to Tengboche
- Apr 9 Rest
- Apr 10 Trek to Pheriche
- Apr 11 Rest
- Apr 12 Trek to Lobuche base camp
- Apr 13 Trek to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 14 Move to Lobuche High Camp
- Apr 15 Acclimatize
- Apr 16 Summit and descend Lobuche BC
- Apr 17 Trek to EBC
- Apr 18 Rest
- Apr 19 Rest
- Apr 20 Train/acclimatise
- Apr 21 Rest/Pack for first rotation
- Apr 22 Climb to C1
- Apr 23 Climb towards C2 rturn to C1
- Apr 24 Descend to base camp
- Apr 25 Rest
- Apr 26 Hike to Pumori
- Apr 27 Rest
- Apr 28 Climb to C1
- Apr 29 Climb to C2
- Apr 30 Climb above C2
- May 1 Climb to C3 and descend to C2
- May 2 Descend to base camp
- May 3 Rest
- May 4 Rest
- May 5 Rest
- May 6 Rest
- May 7 To C1
- May 8 To C2
- May 9 To C3
- May 10 To C4
- May 11 Summit and descend to C2
- May 12 Descend to base camp
- May 13 Rest
- May 14 Pack up base camp
- May 15 Trek to Pheriche
- May 16 Trek to Namche
- May 17 Trek to Lukla
- May 18 Fly to KTM
- May 19 Fly Home
- May 20 Contingency
- May 21 Contingency
- May 22 Contingency
- May 23 Contingency
- May 24 Contingency
- May 25 Contingency
- May 26 Contingency
- May 27 Contingency
- May 28 Contingency
- May 29 Contingency
- May 30 Contingency
Our expeditions are designed to be fully inclusive, except for some services/items of a personal nature like flights, gear, insurance. Here’s a detailed list of inclusions/exclusions so you know what to expect.
Included in the Sherpa Supported Everest Climb
- Leadership, strategy, climbing oversight by Everest Expedition Leader including full support for a summit attempt
- A personal climbing Sherpa above Camp 2 on the summit bid
- Climbing Sherpa to assist with carrying personal gear
- Full expedition logistics, weather forecasts, etc
- Everest climbing permit
- Domestic flights to and from Lukla
- In country transport associated with the program itinerary
- Airport transfers
- Accommodation in Nepal including hotels and teahouses
- Welcome dinner & meals throughout the expedition
- Oxygen system and oxygen
- Lobuche East peak training and acclimatization climb
- CTSS Base Camp setup and tent accommodation
- Access to medical and communications gear
- High mountain camps (Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4)
- On mountain meals
Excluded in the Sherpa Supported Everest Climb
- International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal
- Airport arrival or departure taxes
- Associated travel expenses including: Visa, Passport, Reciprocity Fees, Vaccination Charges, Excess Baggage
- Optional excursions not included in the itinerary or additional days before or after the scheduled program
- Personal climbing equipment, clothing, toiletries etc
Personal sundries including but not limited to; non-team meals while in Kathmandu, personal snacks, specialized high altitude climbing food, alcoholic beverages, laundry services, medical expenses, gratuities, 3rd party internet, email or phone charges, bottled water, specialty coffees - Sherpa tip pool
- Guide tip (customary but optional)
- Costs incurred as a result of events beyond the control of CTSS above and beyond the normal expedition costs
- Required trip insurance policy (for trip cancellation, interruption, rescue & evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)
- Unused Contingency Days at the end of your program: CTSS covers one night in the hotel in Kathmandu on your return. If you decide to stay longer in Kathmandu beyond this night, those costs are your responsibility. We highly recommend that while you should plan to be away from home for the entire duration of the expedition including contingencies days, you book a flexible return airfare so you can move your flight forward if you don’t use all of the contingency days or push it back as you need.
Everest Education & Resources
Everest Experience - Webinar Series
Everest Route Familiarisation
Everest Summit Day In Stages
Everest FAQ
Mike’s Guide Tips
Everest Advice from Mike Hamill
A Personal Welcome to 'Climbing the Seven Summits' Mt. Everest Expedition from Mike Hamill
Everest is a journey that should be approached with patience and a high level of attention to detail. It’s often the small things that can derail what would be a successful summit.
Here are just a handful of things I’ve imparted on my clients over the years (and used myself!) that have helped them be successful – tips that I hope will contribute to your summit too.
Best wishes,
Mike
- On Everest it is vitally important that you take care of yourself and your body well before you feel you have to stop to do so. Be very preventative vs. reactive.For instance; Sip small amounts of water often by keeping a small bottle in your pocket close at hand rather than in your pack and waiting for a big rest stop when you are likely already dehydrated.Make sure you start the day with warm feet by keeping your boots in your tent and inner boots in your sleeping bag. Putting your feet into cold boots means you will expend precious energy all day trying to warm them up.On Everest it is key to anticipate your body’s needs before things become a problem.
- The mountain is more active and therefore more dangerous later in the day when the sun begins to melt ice and snow, making rock and icefall much more common so for safety travel early in the day (before the sun hits) when it is cold. It can also get unbearably hot in the sun and the body doesn’t perform well when overheated.
- If you start to feel a headache or signs of altitude illness, even if mild, it’s not worth pushing through it, being tough or stoic. You need to spend more time at your current altitude or descend and then reascend. If you don’t, you risk more serious illness which could end your expedition and put you in dire danger. This is not the place to ignore any symptoms however small.
- The key to reducing risk in the icefall is being able to move quickly and continuously (as best you can). Acclimatize before you head through the icefall so your body feels strong and ready. You can do this with acclimatization hikes to Kala Patthar and Pumori Camp 1 and using a climb of Lobuche as a substitute for one rotation thus reducing your overall exposure to risk.
- My favorite bit of gear is actually the humble buff. It’s one of my keys to climbing Everest. Get used to it as much as you can so it becomes comfortable to wear religiously on the mountain. It helps to humidify and warm the cold, dry air which can contribute to ‘Khumbu cough’. Khumbu cough can get so bad that climbers have actually broken ribs ending their summit bids.
Want more golden advice like this from Mike on Everest?When you join our Everest program you become part of our CTSS family, which means access to lots more personal advice from Mike in our Everest Client Consults and Briefings.
Everest Training & Prerequisites
Climbing Everest is a serious (& expensive) undertaking so you want to ensure you are ready.
A major factor in your success is being sufficiently prepared. If you are unsure whether you have the requisite experience, we can help answer your questions and create a custom progression for you.
Please note, we do not accept beginner climbers on our Everest programs.
Experience Level
You need to be an advanced climber with:
- Altitude experience of at least 7000m (a summit of Aconcagua is sufficient)
- Technical familiarity, confidence and proven experience with cramponing and glacier and fixed line climbing
- Comfortable with exposure and steep rock and ice terrain
- A well rounded resume of climbing experience (please feel free to contact us with your climbing experience to see if it is appropriate)
Physical Training
For success on Everest you need to have a high level of ‘climbing specific fitness’ and aerobic capability and strength. It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. You need to emulate long physical days (10hrs +) in the mountains, back to back.
You should:
- Start training specifically for Everest at least 9-12months in advance of departure.
- Have the time to commit to training 5-6 days a week
- Be comfortable hiking 1,500 vertical ft per hour with a 20lb pack.
- Concentrate on High Volume but Low Intensity training
Mindset
Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on Everest.
Everest is a sustained and stressful environment for 2 months. Your psychological and emotional state need to be robust and ready to face a multitude of challenges.
While you are training, push yourself so you start to get ‘comfortable with being uncomfortable’.
Whilst training, get to the point you want to quit and picture yourself on the mountain to find the motivation you need to push yourself.
As a base, you need to:
- Be prepared and comfortable being away from home/work for 8-10 weeks
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel and be adaptable enough to ‘roll with the punches’
- Be prepared to be patient. There is extensive ‘down time’ at Base Camp that can feel monotonous.
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
- Be able to manage and regulate your stress levels effectively
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work within a team environment and be supportive of fellow team members
- Be humble, respectful and considerate even under pressure
Advice on Training & Specific Coaching
We strongly recommend specialist mountaineering coaching who can help formulate a specific plan for you that is both sustainable to your lifestyle and help keep your training goals on track.
We work with and strongly recommend Uphill Athlete.
Their guidance toward specific, structured, progressive training along with their deep knowledge has contributed to the success of many of our climbers. Your preparation should not be underestimated.
Training for Everest
CTSS Logistics, Safety Strategy & Risk Management
CTSS Logistics, Safety Strategy & Risk Management
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Logistics & Risk Mitigation vary greatly between operators on Everest. Here are a few of our key logistics/risk minimization strategies we prioritise for your safety and success.
Acclimatization Schedule
Acclimatization is the process your body takes to become accustomed to lower levels of oxygen at altitude – is hugely important to your safety and the success of your entire expedition. Here are the advantageous approaches we chose to help facilitate this critical process:
Slow Acclimatization
Throughout your expedition, from the trek, to the summit, we employ a slow, steady, approach with a very generous acclimatization schedule which builds a strong foundation of acclimatization for your body to build on. This conservative approach gives your body the rest it needs to undergo the long terms physiological changes of acclimatization – like increasing your red blood cells, lung capacity increase, capillary growth for better circulation. These long term changes take time and can’t be rushed.
Once at Base Camp we will make three forays (or rotations) up the mountain to successively higher altitudes to prepare for our summit bid, with plenty of rest back at Base Camp in between.
Your rest environment at Base Camp is first rate so that this process isn’t a test of patience, but a relaxing break from the arduous climbing.
We believe healthy, well rested climbers are the strongest climbers.
Lobuche East Rotation
Included in your expedition is a climb of Lobuche East en route to Everest which counts as one of your acclimatization rotations.
We recognise that one of the most dangerous sections of Everest is the Khumbu Icefall so to eliminate unnecessary trips through the icefall we climb Lobuche East enroute to Base Camp which makes our expedition safer overall.
Lobuche is a great 6,000m climb in and of itself, and a fantastic opportunity to shake out your climbing skills and a huge “value add” not only for the safety factor, but also the joy of tagging another Himalayan gem.
Oxygen Strategy & Management
Oxygen Allowance & Flow Rates
Oxygen helps you climb more efficiently, feel stronger, faster and importantly; stay warmer. All in all, it makes you safer.
Look for generous supply included in your expedition as a standard. At CTSS, we allocate a generous 11 bottles per climber (8x for you and 3x for your Sherpa). We plan for you to run an oxygen flow of 3L/min or more while climbing, and 1L/min sleeping on your summit bid. While this is more than enough oxygen, we still cater for climbers who want to take advantage of the ‘Extra Oxygen’ option.
We only use advanced technology, hyper-efficient, state-of-the-art oxygen masks and regulators and make sure we have redundancies on the mountain for summit bid.
We also train you extensively at Base Camp on the use of the system, how to correctly and securely fit your mask, common errors in use, how to troubleshoot it should you need to etc.
Guides & Oxygen
Our Guides ALWAYS climb on Oxygen.
At CTSS our guiding team and sherpa always climb on oxygen, for your safety.
Above 8000m you will be mildly hypoxic even on oxygen. No human is immune to this. Being mildly hypoxic is like being tipsy. You can still make decisions and function quite well but you aren’t quite yourself.
Whereas, climbing above 8000m without oxygen is like being really drunk. There’s no denying you will be mentally impaired and severely hypoxic.
A good analogy might be driving home tired and drunk from the pub, you can probably pull it off when road conditions are perfect, and there’s no traffic etc, but it’s extremely risky.
Now imagine you are a drunk taxi driver, on a busy main road and you have paying passengers in your car. You aren’t just risking your own safety, you are now endangering other people’s lives unnecessarily in your own pursuit.
Lately there has been an explosion in these kind of unsafe guiding practices. “Guides” have been boasting about doing ‘No O2 ascents’ whilst guiding paying climbers, as if this should be applauded. This isn’t impressive, it’s gross negligence.
Non O2 ascents should be reserved for personal pursuits only outside of the guiding arena.
Oxygen Reserves & Redundancy
As they say when it comes to redundancy; ‘two is one & one is none’. CTSS invests in
- Emergency Oxygen cached at South Col & Camp 2
- Redundancies and spare masks & regulators (between them the Guides & Sherpa always have a handful of extra masks and regulators spread across the team, as they move above the South Col on summit bid.
Weather Reports
Weather is integral to safety and success on Everest. We need to be able to accurately forecast down to the hour, at the exact altitude bands, many days in advance.
To do this, we invest heavily and use a professional, Air Force trained, meteorologist whose speciality is 8000m peaks and isolated, extreme environments, to give us daily, tailored forecasts for Everest and Lhotse that we know we can trust.
Their accuracy has been second to none over years and the proof is in our decades long relationship.
We keep our forecasts and movements on the mountain top secret to avoid other operators who try and save $ by using free sites like Windy from following our lead and crowding our teams.
Staff & Climber Training
Climber Training
Even though you may be competent, refreshers cement technical skills into second nature.
Repeatedly getting your systems dialled, over and over again helps improve your overall efficiency and safety.
Between rotations, both on Lobuche and at Everest, we run additional skills clinics.
We will train in:
- Climbing skills (rappelling, ascending, cramponing, fixed line climber and safety systems)
- Use of the oxygen systems, troubleshooting, flow rates and system management
- Icefall & Ladder Crossing Techniques
Staff Training
Every year CTSS invests in their climbing staff and sherpa by funding a specific mountain safety training course including;
- 3x days technical and high mountain rescue training
- 2x days of medical training
- Taught by 3x technical climbing instructors & 2x doctors
All of our CTSS Guides are professional, full time career mountain guides who hold current Wilderness First Responder qualifications/first aid certifications & leave no trace training.
Closed Camp Policy & Hygiene
Beyond our COVID safe procedures and policies, we’ve always had a huge focus on hygiene because when your body is hard at work at altitude, it can be easier to pick up bugs.
We are fastidious about hand washing, sanitation, food handling safety etc. We ask you to limit unnecessary personal contact, keep your distance, cough into your elbow, keep your buff up and if team members do get sick we will quarantine them immediately.
All of our communal areas at Base Camp have hand washing stations and our staff are trained to keep our Camp squeaky clean and our food handling practices are extremely stringent.
We also maintain a closed camp policy where we don’t invite members from other expeditions to freely enter our camp and ask you to keep your socialising beyond our immediate team socially distanced and masked and avoid hugs, hand shakes etc.
