Summit Team Staged at Camp 3
Evening of Saturday 11th May
Hello from the Himalayas! We hope you are all rolling into a fabulous Mother's Day weekend and spoiling those moms/mums of yours! Apologies to the mums of our Western Guided Team who are above Base Camp right now, as they won't be able to send a message to you all, thanking you for all your support and love and for helping them get here and live out their dreams. We honor you.
At Camp 3 we have:
- Bert Snarr
- Tom Smith
- Adam Kennedy
- Michael Fortune
- David Keating
- Terry Ledgards
- Jared Harris
- Pat Monday
- Lee Donald & Personal Sherpa Thunang Bhote
- Guide Josh McDowell & Guide Nani Strahringer.
They climbed the Lhotse Face strongly today - leaving early, at about 5 am, when the face was cold to minimize rockfall, and pulled into Camp 3 in good style and good time. They are sleeping on oxygen now and will remain on oxygen throughout their summit bids.
In the morning, they will keep heading up the Lhotse Face, through the Yellow Band, up to the South Col (Camp 4) at 8000m, where they will rest and get some sleep before they begin their summit attempts! We have winds in range throughout the night of the 12th and morning of the 13th, forecast to pick up more later in the afternoon of the 13th. There are no crowds which means they will be able to move smoothly and efficiently. We are so excited for them and wishing them the best of luck.
Check out their route below:
Back at Everest Base Camp, readying for their window are:
- Ruben S
- Marc B
- Randall E
- Chen (Blake) Li
- Yinghong H
- Riki J
- Pascale S
- Aga O
- Darragh O
Everything is smooth, let's head to the summit!
Photos from the CTSS Archive
The Start of Summit Bids on Everest
Evening of May 10th
The forecast is favorable.
The winds are within range.
The route is ready, thanks to the summit rope fixing team.
Our team is feeling strong and eager.
It’s go time!
Our Western Guided team is tucked in at Camp 2. They plan to start climbing at 5am local time up to Camp 3, where they will spend tomorrow night, before continuing toward the summit.
The 1:1 Private Guided and Personal Sherpa climbers are at Everest Base Camp, recovering and resting from their last rotation. They are all excited as they begin to prepare and strategize for their summit bid.
Exciting times in Nepal!
Summit bids are starting! Here's to continue good weather and strong energy.
The World's Highest Ping Pong Tournament
We are getting excited as we move closer and closer to summit bids. With the team fully acclimatized, all eyes are on the forecast, specifically the winds. We are looking for an opportune moment. The team is eager, the logistics are in place, and we are excited to get things underway.
While we wait, we knew it was the perfect time to host the World's Highest Ping Pong Tournament. The results are in, and guide Pega narrowly edged out Dawa Yolmo in the finals to successfully defended his 2023 title. Congrats to all the ping-pong players!
If you're climbing with us in 2025, this is your sign to start brushing up on your ping-pong skills as part of your training regime. For real. The Sherpas are hard to beat.
Meanwhile, guide Tomi has taken over the kitchen and is whipping up some incredible Argentinian fare as well as pizza and chicken brochette skewers.
Ecuador Volcanoes Advice from Mike Hamill
Ecuador Volcanoes Advice from Mike Hamill
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Personal advice on climbing Ecuador from Mike Hamill
Aconcagua is a unique climb bringing you into the realm of true high altitude mountaineering. As the highest peak outside the Himalaya it is bound to challenge and excite you.
Some people say that Aconcagua is an ‘ugly’ mountain because it is not your typical snow and ice covered peak as it is more of an arid, desert-like environment. Personally, I find it one of the most beautiful places for its unusual character and the rare juxtaposition of high glaciers, rock and earth. I liken it to the Southwestern United States when it still had glaciers. Its sunsets are phenomenal with condors flying above you and the sky turning fiery red and orange.
To help you on your Aconcagua journey here are just a handful of things I’ve imparted to my clients over the years (and used myself!) that have helped them be successful – tips that I hope will contribute to your summit, too.
Best wishes,
Mike
- Don’t underestimate the cold on summit day on Aconcagua. Combined with the thin air the ambient temperature will feel much lower, which makes the pace slower than you might expect. It’s likely your feet will feel the cold more than they otherwise would so I recommend investing in a triple boot, especially if you are planning on doing other high altitude, 8000m peaks or cold weather climbs like Vinson or Denali in the future. Triple boots will ensure you aren’t fighting to keep your feet warm all summit day.
- Even on the best weather days on the summit bid, there is almost always a fierce wind crossing the Gran Acarero so make sure you have a thick face mask on hand and ready to put on. In fact, having a good cover up system of layers (buff, sun hoodie, goggles, etc.) is important everywhere on Aconcagua. If it is not the wind, it’s the sun and the dust that you need to ward off.
- Taking care of yourself is essential on Aconcagua, particularly making sure you don’t get dehydrated. Whenever you are at altitude you need to drink more water than at sea level because of the dry air, but this is even more so on Aconcagua as you move through the desert-like environment. Drink before you are thirsty and keep sipping water throughout the day. Your urine should be clear. The same goes for calories. Being at 7000m means you need plenty of fuel and quick calories so you don’t bonk. I like Shot Bloks or Gu packs in my pocket and down them as often as I can. Bring your favourite snack foods from home that you know will tempt you even when you don’t feel hungry.
- Commit early to Aconcagua. If you are able to plan 6 months to a year in advance and lock in your goal by booking a spot on a team, you will give yourself a greater opportunity for success. Being financially and mentally committed means you are more likely to stay physically committed, too. Having a good runup is very helpful in terms of making training a daily habit. Get fitter and stronger than you think you need to be. Aconcagua is an enormous physical undertaking. A strong foundation of specific ‘pack carrying climbing fitness’ will also ensure you enjoy the ‘type 2 fun’.
- Be a great teammate. Ruck in and do your part. Aconcagua is truly a team mountain. In order to be successful, you will need to shoulder your share of group gear, be organized and ready to build and break camp almost daily. Make an effort to help your guides wherever you can. Be eager. Remember your guides are the ones who get you to the top so helping them helps you, and on a mountain like Aconcagua it won’t go unnoticed.
Ecuador Volcanoes Training & Prerequisites
Ecuador Volcanoes Training & Prerequisites
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Experience Level
This program is of moderate difficulty and is great for those with previous experience with crampons, ice axes, and rope travel on peaks such as Mount Baker and Mont Blanc. It requires solid fitness and an ability to perform well at altitude, but it is not beyond the abilities of many people who are willing to train for the climb and work hard on the trip.
If you are an advanced beginner, meaning you have previous hiking and trekking experience, you are welcome to join us on this expedition but please note that this climb will be challenging and test your limits. We will do a brief snow school during the team climb and we also offer a Pre-Expedition Acclimatization & Skills Training Add-On which can help refresh or extend your knowledge prior to the expedition. If you want to join this climb but feel unsure of your ability, chat with us and we can work with you to get you up to speed prior to the climb, as we take immense pride in helping people achieve their goals.
Physical Training
Your climb begins long before you reach Ecuador. We encourage you to incorporate training into your daily routine at least six months before the departure date. As your climb rolls around, you want to be in top physical and mental condition. Being fit at home is different from being strong at high altitudes and in extreme conditions.
By the time you depart, you should be comfortably able to do multi-day hikes with strong elevation gain carrying a 40-lb pack. While you won’t necessarily always have a pack that heavy in Ecuador (you will be carrying all of your gear to the Cayambe and Cotopaxi huts and, if you do the Chimborazo add-on, to high camp), it is a great way to build your power and strength in the areas you will need it. The average pack weight in Ecuador is 20 lbs (10kg) on a hiking/climbing day and 30 lbs (15 kg) on a day we are carrying to/from a hut or high camp.
We advise a training plan that includes the following:
- Hiking uphill along outdoor trails with a heavy pack for an hour or more at least 3x per week, aiming for 1,500 vertical feet per hour.
- Longer weekend back-to-back hiking days or climbing expeditions
- Cross-training sessions, such as stair training, running, cycling, swimming, etc.
- Strength-specific training that focuses on the lower body and core.
- Interval training that boosts cardiovascular fitness and conditions your body to anaerobic conditions. Slowly increase your training (time, distance, elevation gain, etc.) each week.
Training should be done gradually to reduce the risk of injury and build yourself up over time. Please be aware that bodybuilding workouts are not as effective as endurance and climbing conditioning training. Yes, you need to be strong and put weight on before your climb, as you will inevitably lose body fat and muscle, but merely bulking in the gym shouldn’t be a substitute for climb-specific cardiovascular training and strength.
Knees are often flagged as a concern. If you need to strengthen your knees, consider hiking with water weight in your pack, empty the water for your descents, and slowly build your knee strength. Soon you will be able to descend with the same amount of weight as you climb up with as your knees strengthen.
Whatever training you choose, you need to be working out five days per week for 45 minutes or more. This is really the bare minimum. Most climbers do cardio fitness nearly every day that is fairly specific to hiking uphill and works similar muscles on the descent without the impact. Aim for 3,000 to 5,000 vertical feet per day at least once a week and twice a week in the few months leading up to the climb.
Again, it is important to put time in before the trip in order to make the climb easier and more enjoyable. You don’t want to merely struggle to the top; instead, enjoy the experience by being in good enough shape to summit comfortably. Try to increase your workout intensity and duration gradually so you peak about a week before the start of your climb.
There is no substitute for hiking with a pack, as that is the basis for any high-altitude climb. There is no better excuse to get in shape than training for a goal such as these climbs!
Mindset
Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak.
You should be prepared to:
- Be away from home/work for the duration of your climb
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support, and advice from your guides/expedition leaders, even if you are an experienced mountaineer
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow teammates
- Be humble, respectful, and considerate even under pressure
Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Beta & Route
Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Beta & Route
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Elevation: 18,996 – 20,548 feet
Duration: 11 – 14 days
Difficulty: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
Route: Standard Route
Continent: South America
Climbing Cotopaxi
On Cotopaxi (19,347 feet), we will be based out of Tambopaxi Lodge, just below the peak. We will do our acclimatization hikes and a day of training to refresh our skills, and then it’s time for the real climbing to begin! Our team will drive to the mountain and hike for about an hour to arrive at Refugio José Rivas, a dormitory-style mountain hut, where we will settle in, have our pre-summit meeting, and call it an early night.
Cotopaxi requires a very early start with breakfast at the hut before starting upwards. The route gains 3,200 vertical feet (1,000 meters) in just under two miles (3.2 km) from 15,900 feet (4,846 meters) to 19,347 feet (5,896 meters). The climb consists of true glacier travel with some steep snow, so it is necessary to be well acquainted with ice axes, crampons, and roped team travel.
Climbing Cayambe
The second climb of our Ecuador program, Cayambe (18,996 feet), serves up an exciting glacier ascent to the highest point on the Equator. The route starts from the mountain hut, Refugio Oleas Ruales, ascending a rock ridge for about an hour out of camp. After scrambling the rock ridge, the team gains the glacier and uses standard glacier travel techniques to work their way up to the summit. The climb takes about six hours to the summit and three to four hours for the descent. After returning to the Refugio, our team will pack up and head out. It’s time for a well deserved rest, and we’ll relax for the afternoon in the hot springs at Papallacta! Be sure to pack your swimmers.
Climbing Chimborazo
For those looking for an extra challenge while in Ecuador, we highly recommend adding Chimborazo (20,548 feet) to the standard Ecuador Volcanoes itinerary.
Chimborazo is a more challenging peak than Cayambe or Cotopaxi, with more exposed terrain and a longer route. To set our teams up for success, we have elected to set up a high camp in tents at around 18,400 feet (5,600 meters) rather than the lower Refugio Whymper hut that many expeditions use. The ascent starts the same day that you leave Quito, with about four hours of climbing to reach the high camp. Once in place at high camp, we’ll eat a good meal in the early evening and have an early bedtime in preparation for the summit bid. Waking up early for an alpine start, the route ascends a steep, glaciated ridge for several thousand feet to the false summit, Pico Veintimilla, at 20,434 feet (6,228 meters). It is a long, relatively flat climb from the false summit across the summit plateau to the true summit of Chimborazo at 20,565 feet (6,268 meters).
The descent retraces the ascent route. We’ll pick up our gear at high camp and descend down to the trucks waiting at the end of the road. From there, it’s a few hours of driving back to Quito!
How to Choose The Right Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition
How to Choose The Right Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition
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It is important to research and choose the right expedition company to support you, help guide you through all logistics, and be there for you on the mountain. You want to do your homework so you feel 100% confident in your choice and can focus on the climb.
We encourage you to look closely at both the big picture and the small details.
Consider a company’s priority on safety, the quality and experience of its guides, its reputation, and its level of “care factor.”
Safety & Success
Your safety and success are the top priorities, strictly in that order.
It should go without saying that a climbing company should invest heavily in, and plan for your safety. This includes big picture logistics like strategic itineraries, professional and experienced guides and top notch logistics, all the way down to a general attitude and company wide philosophy, that while success and summits are great, they aren’t the ‘be all and end all’. What is more important than any mountain top, is your safety, wellbeing and enjoyment.
It is easy to be drawn in by low price tags, but remember the mountains are hazardous environments and what you are doing is challenging physically and mentally and cheap trips often mean compromises in areas that should never be compromised. Be it old gear, undertrained, underpaid or overworked guide staff, poor climber to guide ratios, rushed schedules and slap dash logistics. Buyer beware.
Try to gauge a companies’ approach to safety for yourself, scan past climber reviews, ask questions and talk to them about their strategy, their risk management, their level of redundancy. It is those conversations that will give you a good sense on their priorities.
Acclimatization
When you are considering an Ecuadorian Volcanoes expedition, one of the first things to look closely at is the schedule.
As soon as you land in Quito you are already at 2,850m | 9,350ft. Most human bodies start registering the effects of altitude at around 2500m | 8000ft. Formally “high altitude” is recognized as elevations above 8,000ft.
Look for relaxed time on the front end of the trip that allows your body to adjust before overtaxing it, for instance is there some sightseeing around Quito and the Equator, a gentle acclimatization hike or two where you retreat back down to Quito to sleep. You want at least 2x nights in Quito before you start moving higher.
Starting high out of the gate couple with the proximity and the accessibility of these mighty peaks themselves, (within a days drive and a days climb you can be at well above 6000m| 20,000ft!) its important to understand and be prepared that climbing in Ecuador, by its very nature is aggressive and jumps you up fast!
So inspect the itinerary – look for at least 3-4 days with in-built acclimatization hikes (to get high/sleep low) and training clinics, before you even attempt a summit to let your body adjust. Watch out for ‘churn and burn’ types who wants to move climbers through their season as fast as possible to get as many “bums on seats” as they can? Do they care about whether you get AMS and have to bow out early or not? Or is it a numbers game where sheer quantity over quality wins out?
Another clue is to look if the operator offers a ‘pretrip’ of some sort that allows climbers, for whom Ecuador may be their first true high altitude expedition, or even for climbers who know their individual bodies take longer to adjust, can get a jump start on acclimatization and a more gradual start before folding into the team.
Further you want to know that your Guide staff understand AMS (Acute Mountain Sickeness) and the more serious HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (Hight Altitude Cerebral Edema) and that they are quick to identify it, and responsive to the signs and symptoms.
Too often we’ve seen so called ‘guides’ being blasé about acclimatization. They probably live in Quito so their bodies have been adapted since birth and therefore they just don’t notice, understand or have the patience to help you adjust before setting out for the summit.
All our CTSS guides are top professionals who are valued because of their patient, understanding and conservative approach, especially when it comes to altitude and acclimatizing which is so important, particularly in Ecuador.
Leadership
CTSS owner Mike Hamill oversees all of our Ecuador Volcanoes expeditions. Mike’s almost unparalleled experience based in the big mountains can make the difference between success and failure. He and his team have been constantly refining our logistics over many expeditions to Ecuador and hundreds worldwide. Let Mike guide you through the many nuances of climbing Cotopaxi and Cayambe that will allow you to be successful. From start to finish, he and his team will work with you to make sure you’re as prepared as possible to reach your goal of standing on top. Often, being able to troubleshoot problems before they occur can make a difference, and this is where Mike’s vast experience becomes crucial.
We feel that our guides are incredibly important to our success. CTSS employs only world-class leaders who are known for their focus on client care and experience.
Values & Philosophy
Does an operator have strong values?
This is sometimes a little harder to identify as it’s more of a feeling than a sales pitch, but you should get a feel for a company through its little interactions, its care factor, its attention to detail, its corporate social responsibility, and its responses to you.
Mountaineering can be high-risk and stressful, so pick an operator who has strong core values and a team mentality that aligns with yours. When things get challenging, you can rely on open lines of communication, knowing they will do what they can to support you.
It is this team cohesiveness that flows through to each individual climber and helps them stand on top.
Culture
We emphasize experiencing Ecuadorean culture throughout our expedition. Ecuador has such a vast and beautiful history that it would be a shame not to experience it during a visit to the country. We immerse ourselves in the flare of the local people while sampling some of the best and most quintessential food and accommodations that the region has to offer.
Ecuador Travel Guide
Expedition Meets in: Quito, Ecuador
Continent: South America
Currency: United States Dollar
Population: 18 million
Official Language: Spanish
Seasons to Climb: November to February is considered to be the best time for climbing.
Getting There & Meeting Location:
Your first day is an arrival day, meaning you can book your flights to arrive in Quito at any time on that first day.
Flying into Quito is relatively straightforward as it is served by several major airlines with flights from Asia, North and South America, and Europe daily.
Ecuador issues visas on arrival for most countries. However, there are some exceptions. It is your responsibility to research travel requirements from your own country.
When you arrive in Quito, our local team will be at the airport to meet you and take you to our designated hotel. Upon exiting the plane, walk to the customs area and have your passport and visa form handy. Depending on the number of flights landing, it can take up to an hour to clear customs. You will be required to buy a visa upon arrival unless your country requires a pre-approved visa.
Once you have passed customs, claim your bags, head outside, and look for a CTSS representative in the arrivals hall.
If, for some reason, you miss this transport or your flight is delayed and you have been unable to alert us, simply grab a taxi and head to the hotel listed in your pre-trip emails. It is cheap and easy to get to the hotel.
Connect with your guide as you arrive at the hotel; if you arrive in the morning on Day 1 and feel good, they may do your gear checks the same day. If you arrive late at night, please ask reception to leave a message for your guide that you have arrived.
On the evening of Day 1, we will gather informally at the hotel and head out for dinner in Quito. This is just a casual meeting, as late or delayed arrivals may not be there. Don’t feel any pressure to join if you arrive later in the day or prefer to rest.
We will have our formal, official team meeting with the team at breakfast on the morning of Day 2.
Expedition Transportation:
CTSS will arrange all scheduled transport for the duration of the expedition.
We will drive from Quito to Cotopaxi, then on to Cayambe before returning to Quito at the end of the normal itinerary. Chimborazo extension climbers will leave from Quito to Chimborazo via CTSS-arranged transport on the day that the rest of the team heads to the airport.
Accommodation:
Your expedition includes all of your accommodations, as noted in the inclusions and exclusions.
All hotels are double occupancy unless you have chosen the single rooming option and paid the add-on fee. If you want single rooming, please let us know, and we can add the fee on to your balance to cover this added expense. Sometimes hotels are full during the climbing season and may not have enough space to accommodate single rooming, but we will do our best.
Money:
It is better to have more money than you need than not enough. Most things are covered on the trip once you land in Quito. You can review the inclusions and exclusions list for more details.
Bring cash to cover expenses for a potential early departure (not frequent, but sometimes this occurs), miscellaneous expenses like extra hotel nights, meals in town, if arriving early or departing late, shopping, alcohol, specialty coffees, bottled water or snacks, staff tips (customary, but optional), etc. In-town meals during the climb are at your own expense.
Generally, we recommend bringing $1,000 – $1,500 USD plus a credit card to cover all potential expenses, though it is unlikely that you will need all of this. Please let your credit card company know you will be traveling so you can use your card without triggering a fraud alert.
Tipping:
Tips are customary in Ecuador. Tip between 10-15% for meals, round up fares for taxis, hotel bellhops receive $1-$2 USD per bag, and housekeepers customarily get about $1 USD per day.
Language:
Ecuador’s official language is Spanish. While in Quito, you should expect difficulty finding English-speaking shopkeepers or among the general public. Most hotel front desk employees will have some command of English, and our logistics staff speak English well.
Cell Phone Coverage:
Ecuador Country Code: +593
There is cell service during much of our trip in Ecuador but roaming charges can be expensive, so please consult your carrier to determine data/calling rates prior to departure. Another option is to purchase a local SIM or rechargeable phone while in Quito. There may be a satellite phone with the team on the climb, but don’t expect to be able to use it on an unlimited basis as we typically reserve it for emergencies. We can make it available to the team at $3/minute.
Local Emergency Contacts:
In Ecuador, you can reach emergency services by dialing:
Ambulance: 131
Fire: 102
Police: 101
International Arrivals & Visas:
Ecuador issues visas on arrival for most countries, although there are a handful of countries from which Ecuador requires pre-approved visas for entry. It is your responsibility to research travel requirements from your country.
We recommend flying with at least three (3) passport-sized photos for visa and customs. You may or may not need them, but they are important to have on hand.
You should keep a copy of your embassy or consulate information with you while traveling through Ecuador. For US citizens, this information is:
US Embassy Santiago
Ave. Avigiras E12-170 y Ave. Eloy Alfaro
Quito, Ecuador
Phone: +593-2-398-5000
Electrical:
The Ecuadorean electrical grid runs at 110 volts and 60 Hertz, identical to the U.S. grid. If you’re flying from a country other than the United States, check your device specification (especially their Hertz specifications) and plan on bringing an adapter to ensure compatibility.
Ecuador has adopted the same plug configurations as the United States Type A and Type B
Potable Water:
It is recommended to opt for bottled water or treat your own tap water while traveling in Ecuador, especially in the more rural regions surrounding our climbing routes.
Single Rooming Upgrade
Single Rooming Upgrade
$1,250 USD
We are happy to organize single-room accommodation throughout your stay in Ecuador. If you snore or are easily awakened, this is a great option to ensure you get plenty of rest and relaxation. Single rooming also helps climbers stay healthy and adds a bit of comfort and personal space that can go a long way.
If you would like single rooming, please let us know.
Please note that tent accommodations on the mountain are double occupancy for safety and warmth.
All prices are in US Dollars.
CTSS requires clients to buy trip insurance for all expeditions. For more information, please see our page on trip insurance and cancellation policy. All payments, once submitted, are non-refundable and non-transferable. If balances are not received by specified dates, the client forfeits their place on the program and any prior fees paid.
Friends & Family Option
Friends & Family Option
Contact us for pricing and options.
Ecuador presents the rare opportunity to enjoy world-class peaks without the “suffering” of expedition life. As such, non-climbing loved ones and friends are welcome to join us on this trip because we know they will have an equally good time.
Following the same itinerary, they can partake in the acclimatization hikes and accompany you to the mountain huts. In fact, the time apart on this climbing schedule is minimal, with only a few hours on the summit mornings. You will wake up at midnight, climb while they are sleeping, and return to rejoin them just after breakfast!
The chance to see Ecuador, enjoy Quito, visit the Equator, taste the incredible food, meet the local people, tour 400-year-old haciendas, and soak in the hot springs will enthrall any traveling companion, especially those who like to hike. On the standard trip, there isn’t even a tent in sight!
You may also like to take advantage of being in Ecuador and spend a few days together in the Galápagos Islands after your trip, which we can help you organize.
We welcome you to invite friends and family to join you for all or part of your Ecuador Volcanoes expedition. The benefits are:
- The joy of sharing this once-in-a-lifetime experience with your loved ones.
- More time together with your loved ones means less time apart.
- Your loved ones gain a first-hand understanding of the nature of your expedition and goals.
- It will help put your loved ones at ease and support empathy for future expeditions.