...Lhotse Summits - 100% Success..
We are thrilled to announce that our Lhotse team summited this morning, including one mountaineer who stood on top of Everest yesterday. Two 8,000m peaks in under 24 hours - well done.
This team is truly on fire! Everyone who arrived in Kathmandu to climb, stood on top and achieved their goal. The entire team is now descending as I write. The Everest team to Camp 2 and the Lhotse team off the summit. Huge congrats to everyone - their hard work, dedication and training has paid off. Not to mention everyone's support teams from home. It’s pretty incredible to watch everyone achieve their goals on such a grand scale. We are incredibly thankful to all the Sherpa and local team on the ground here in Nepal for making our dream expedition possible.
Soon, we'll have the whole team back safely at Base camp and it will be time to celebrate.
CTSS Team
...Safe at the South Col...
Great news - and a good opportunity to let out that big, deep breath we've all been holding - the whole team is now back at the South Col and recovering after an amazing summit bid in near perfect weather.
They will be replenishing fluids with hot drinks, plenty of foods and riding high on the elation of a successful summit.
Meanwhile our Lhotse team is at high camp and will be embarking on their summit bid tonight.
We'll keep you updated on their respective descents and ascents!
CTSS Team
...100% ON SUMMIT RIGHT NOW...
100% of our CTSS climbers are on top of Everest right now!
They made incredible time across the summit ridge and are enjoying great weather with those winds dying down.
Well done to all the climbers and a big shout out to their support teams, friends and family from all over the world sending your thoughts, good vibes and love have enabled this wonderful team of people to live out their individual dreams of reaching the top of the world.
We do recognise that the climb isn't over yet and the team will now make their way back down, and we will keep you updated. Often they stash radios in pockets, put their heads down and just keep moving so remember no news is good news as they descend to the South Col. If they feel strong enough reaching there they may even keep going back to Camp 2.
...Team are at the South Summit...
A very quick update from the mountain from you... the team have reached the South Summit and are on schedule. They are changing oxygen bottles and all going to plan it should take them 2 - 3 hours from here.
It's a bit windy up there at the moment and there is some congestion on the mountain but the good news is the winds are forecast to die off and everyone is moving strongly.
We keep our radio communications nice short to save batteries, but we will update you as we hear.
CTSS Team
Mike shows us the route that the team have passed through to come up to the South Summit.
... The Everest team is off & on the move...
& the Lhotse team resting at C3...
Well, the waiting is over and the moment the Everest climbers have been waiting for has arrived. They finally get to experience what Everest summit day is like. They have done exceptionally well to put themselves in this position. Even to climb to 8000m and spend a night there is a huge feat. Now they will climb for the next 6 to 10 hours, ascending through the darkness and rarefied Himalayan air for a short moment on top.
The route starts gradually across the icy surface of the south col before the climbing begins. Moderate slopes and 3 - 4 hours of climbing will lead the climbers to the "Balcony." Here they will change their used oxygen bottles for fresh ones and grab a quick sip of water and bite to eat before getting in to the real climbing.
The next stretch to the South Summit surprises many climbers but our team has been well-educated about the steepness and challenges of this section. Several short rocky steps lead to a right traverse then on to a broad, steep ridge to the South summit proper. This section typically takes 3 hours. As our team crests the South Summit the first light of day should be on them and they'll begin to feel the warmth of the sun.
Here they are within reach. From the South summit they will peer across the summit ridge where they can almost see the top. Another 1.5 - 2 hours of exposed but relatively flat walking will bring our team to the top. Typically climbers spend anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour on the summit depending on the weather.
They will then descend to back to the South Col in about half the time. Believe it or not, it can get so hot on the descent that you're forced to take the top of your down suit off and tie it around your waste. I've even seen a few mountaineers take their boots off at the "Balcony" to cool their feet although I wouldn't recommend it! Once back at the South Col the team will rest and if some people are feeling very strong and well-rested, they may descend to the relative luxury of Camp 2.
The Lhotse team is tucked in at Camp 3 on Os and has a less eventful night ahead of them. They'll wake up leisurely in the morning and head to high camp where the next night will be their night to climb.
More updates to follow as the team ascends.
All best,
Mike Hamill
CTSS Owner
...Arrived at The South Col...
The CTSS Everest team made incredible progress to the South Col today in excellent weather and have all safely arrived. Part of their route today passed up through the Yellow Band and above the Geneva Spur.
They will currently be eating, drinking lots of fluids and will now rest on oxygen at the South Col before beginning their climb to the summit late tonight.
To give you an idea of what it is like at Camp 4:
This is the view of their route above looking at the South summit. The first stretch out of camp is flat and feels like walking on a moonscape. The route then gains altitude quickly to the “Balcony” before turning climber’s left toward the South Summit.
Everyone is doing very well and making excellent time. We'll keep you updated on their progress as we get closer and closer. Expedition leader & CTSS owner Mike will be sleeping in the Comms tent tonight basically on top of the base station so he'll hear every radio transmission that comes through from our team.
CTSS Team
...Arrived at Camp 3...
We're very happy to report that most of the team has arrived at Camp 3 with the rest due to arrive any minute. They had another fresh and early start this morning and are moving really well. It's a strong group.
It was a little breezy and cold on the Lhotse Face, but overall we've had great weather and the forecast is still very positive over the next few days. Tonight the team will sleep on oxygen at Camp 3 before moving up to the South Col tomorrow morning.
If all goes well, (as we expect it will given how strongly everyone is climbing!) the team will arrive early afternoon at the South Col, sleep for a few hours and then leave in the late evening for their summit bid! We're getting very close now, it could be as little as 30 or so hours so stay tuned.
Likewise our Lhotse team is moving really well, having come up to Camp 2 today in perfect weather, in fact it was probably far too hot in the Western CWM! Nothing like a little climbing tan to return home with.
All well up high.
CTSS Team
Here is a few 'point of view videos' from the Lhotse Face, and looking out from and at Camp 3! (Videos by Mike Hamill)
...Everest & Lhotse Teams On The Move...
A quick update: The CTSS Everest team bumped up to Camp 2 today while our Lhotse climbers moved from EBC to Camp 1. Both groups of climbers make excellent time in perfect weather. They are tucked in to their respective camps enjoying a hot dinner and drinks.
This is the view that the Camp 2 climbers will have in a few hours as the sun sets and alpenglow takes hold of the Lhotse Face. The Everest team will move to C3 early tomorrow morning while the Lhotse crew will take their place at C2. All is good on the mountain.
CTSS Owner,
Mike Hamill
Everest and Lhotse Summit Bids Begin In Earnest
Months of preparations and years of training have all led up to this moment. The team has been acclimatizing for over a month and climbing through storms to be in position. The Sherpa team has carried hundreds of loads to stock camps. The team has consumed countless gallons of electrolyte mix and energy gels to get to this point. Now the summit bid is officially under way.
The Everest team woke up at 3am this morning and were out the door by 4am to make the journey to camp 1. They arrived safely there several hours later and are all tucked in to their tents relaxing for the day. They will push on to Advanced base camp at Camp 2 tomorrow before heading up the Lhotse face the following day. It will take them 5 days to stand on top assuming weather cooperates and there are no delays.
We're hoping for a Friday the 18th summit for the Everest climbers and a Saturday the 19th summit for Lhotse. Our Lhotse team will go through the same ritual tonight to make their way up to Camp 1, a day behind the Everest team.
We are watching the weather like hawks and currently everything is looking excellent for their summit window. We have hired the most advanced weather forecasting and models available and they have been incredibly accurate. We are seeing some winds high on the mountain today associated with some precipitation down low, which was predicted in the models. The weather is supposed to stabilize over the next few days. Sometimes to put yourself in position for the perfect summit day one needs to push inclement weather down low.
The team is feeling healthy and strong and are all mentally prepared for the arduous climbing ahead. We will keep you posted each day of the summit effort and will try to provide several real-time updates on the blog on summit day as the team ascends and descends. We're underway!
All best from Mt Everest,
Mike Hamill
CTSS Owner
...The Time Has Come...Our Summit Bid Begins
Firstly, our team would like to wish their moms (& mums!) a very Happy Mom's Day! Thank you for all that you have done and continue to do for us. (As I type this I received a special shout out to Mert Hamill from Mike & to Amy Kugler from Clint, but of course to the other moms too)
The weather forecast is looking good and our CTSS team is ready for their final Everest and Lhotse summit pushes starting tomorrow morning at 4 AM! Over the next 5 days they will work their way through the Khumbu Icefall, the Westerm Cwm, up the Lhotse Face, and across the South Col to the summit.
We will keep you updated with their process. Wish them luck & Stay Tuned!
CTSS Team
