…Rest Day in Food Heaven…
Not too much to report when it’s a full rest day down here at EBC and we are likely to enjoy the same relaxed indulgence tomorrow. Perhaps a hike up to Pumori Camp 1 to get the legs moving.
Our entire team is back together with our Lhotse climber finishing his first rotation this morning and coming back safely through the Khumbu icefall to rest.
We’re busy watching the weather, taking hot showers, oh and EATING!
What else should one do on a rest day but EAT? Kumar has us covered and no kidding the meal plan for that last few days has been:
- Real Bread Crumbed Chicken Cordon Bleu with Fresh Ham and Cheese, Potato Croquets & Fresh Vegetables
- Cheesy Potato Bake, Spaghetti Bolognese & Vegetables
- Freshly Baked Cinnamon Rolls, Croissants, Omelets and Breakfast Sausage
- The Best Cake (seriously it’s up there with the best we’ve all ever eaten, we can’t even describe it – except it was the perfect mix of light, moist, fluffy and sweet)
- Loads of fresh fruit including Pomegranate, Nashi Pear & Green Grapes!
Surely Kumar’s cooking makes up for the dehydrated meals that are a necessity up high on the hill. Zac’s favorite – Cheesy Enchiladas that may or may not have turned into slop (It sounded better on the packet apparently) It’s always a bit luck of the draw once you’ve poured that hot water in as to how they turn out – I think Clint won that round with a delicious rehydrated Chicken Pad Thai! What do you think?
Good food is one of our secrets to success up high. Nutrition and eating healthy, hearty meals down here at Base Camp is key. At altitude the human body actually struggles to digest in the same way it does at sea level and when it doesn’t have enough fuel, the body tends to metabolize muscle before fat up here. The answer to staying healthy and energized - plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, protein and carbohydrates served in a really palatable way so you feel satiated all the time and you want to eat.
We also bring some familiar foods from home to supplement as sometimes it’s easier to eat more of what you know and like. The Sweet Baby Rays and real Maple Syrup are taking a hiding!
Yesterday was ANZAC Day in Australia & NZ (A national day of remembrance that commemorates and honors all Australians and New Zealanders who have served and died in all wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping operations) and a treasured packet of Tim Tams (the world’s best chocky bickie in Aussie slang) appeared from some kind Aussie friends down the valley and were quickly devoured!
We’ve got good food and lots of it... Signing off with happy, albiet full bellies! CTSS Team
...1st Rotation Done, Time for Rest...
Our whole Everest team is safely back down in Base Camp, enjoying the creature comforts of home - full bellies (Kumar baked fresh croissants today!) warm comfy beds and richer oxygen levels.
They spent two full nights at Camp 1 and successfully tagged Camp 2 yesterday moving through the Western CWM. Alex came back in wonder of the views, that are " a sight that has to be seen to be believed, photos don't do it justice, it's absolutely, breathtakingly beautiful - and to be surrounded by such giants, makes you feel so small, the endless white really gives you that innate realization that you are up at high altitude"
Photo Clint Kugler
Everyone reports sleeping well and eating heartily - in fact I think they want to pack more food for the next rotation - all good signs of acclimatization.
The mountain is definitely alive with the glacier a living, breathing, moving entity. Everest isn't to be underestimated and smart, safe decision making and conservative climbing is always the first priority for us at CTSS.
Our Lhotse climber went up yesterday and will spend his second night at Camp 1 tonight after tagging Camp 2 today. We expect him back at EBC tomorrow morning.
Zac Steps Nice & Steady... Video Clint Kugler
This first rotation is vital in the team's acclimatization and to see everyone moving so strongly and competently bodes well. This is the first of three rotations on the mountain, the next one will be longer and reach Camp 3.
The forecast was completely accurate and we are glad the team moved when they did before a small storm cycle sets in with light snows and colder temps through to the 30th so plenty of time to rest and recover over the next few days.
...Catching Zzzz at Camp 1...
The team have banked some solid ZZZzzz's up at Camp 1 (approx 5,944m | 19,501ft) They had dinner in the last of the warm sun and then settled down for a nice 14 hours of tent time. Needless to say they are super ready to get the legs moving today with a push up to tag Camp 2 (approx 6,462m |21,201ft) where they will spend a few hours before descending back to Camp 1. It can be pretty hot in the Western CWM, although it's always nice to defrost a little after a chilly night. Plenty of sunscreen and zinc required!
The weather is still holding although we expect some snow later this afternoon, by then the team will be wrapped up in their sleeping bags for a second night of acclimatization before they descend for a dose of denser Os here at Base Camp in coming days.
Our Lhotse climber has also moved up successfully through the icefall this morning for his first acclimatization rotation and made great time.
CTSS Team
A glimpse at Camp 1
Walking through the Western CWM.
...Moving Up & Out...
The whole team headed uphill for their first Everest rotation yesterday. Eager to get going, everyone was strong, feeling healthy and the route is the best it has been. They left early in the morning around 4am after a small Puja led by Tendi on their way out of Base Camp and made it to Camp 1 in around 5 hours.
While they already have a Lobuche summit under their belt (which in effect is a first rotation) they are continuing their acclimatization by sleeping up high for a night or two and cutting their teeth on the big E.
The plan is to sleep at Camp 1, tag Camp 2 on a day hike, return to Camp 1 for a second night before descending.
Here's an insight into what it's like to be in the icefall and doing crevasse ladder crossings - I'm sure the team are thankful for all the practice and refreshers.
CTSS Team
...Ready for a Rotation...
Our whole team is together! Our Lhotse climber has finished his trek up the valley and has joined us at Base Camp. He slept well and is well adjusted to the altitude already. It's good to have the whole team together.
Today we are readying the Everest team for a first rotation up to Camp 1 to take advantage of a clear weather window before some precipitation is due. The Sherpa team have already fully stocked the higher camps and did another carry load up to Camp 2 this morning. The icefall is in good condition this year with Sherpa quoted as saying the Icefall Doctors have put in one of the safest routes compared to previous seasons. (The Icefall Doctors are camped right next to CTSS and are a team of 8 highly experienced Sherpa who open the route through the Khumbu icefall each year using ropes and aluminium ladders to bridge any crevasses and allow climbers to tackle the vertical sections. They monitor and maintain the route throughout the whole season and are integral to the success of any Everest climber and we're appreciative of their hard work and dedication to safety)
After a few days training and rest at Base Camp the team is eager to move higher and put those skills they've been honing into action and get the legs moving. They will aim for a night or two acclimatizing at Camp 1. Of course we'll be keeping an eagle eye on the weather at all times.
Yesterday Casey had the team practicing on the aluminium ladders in camp so that everyone feels comfortable not only crossing the crevasses on them but they know how to kneel down and release a crampon should one get stuck. Moving confidently over the ladders means the team will move quickly and avoid adding to any traffic jams.
The skies have been cobalt blue every morning, and we've been having breakfast outside every morning. Life's sweet up here at CTSS EBC.
CTSS Team
...Training, Training, Training…
Practice makes perfect so today we’ve been doing drills in the lower part of the icefall. Going over both lower angle and steep fixed line work as well as repelling and descending via an arm wrap and back up. Things that might feel easy down here in a relaxed (and relatively oxygen rich) environment at Base Camp can quickly start to feel more complicated up high in heavy gloves or mittens so it’s important to get everything dialled in so that skills becomes second nature and climbers fall into good habits that feel effortless.
It was toasty warm out there in the sun so the team have been rocking a new look – base layers & t-shirts paired with triple boots and down mittens!
Sadly we waved goodbye to our trekking support team who are heading off back down the valley. They’ll hit Pheriche today, followed by Namche and then Lukla before flying back to Kathmandu. The impact of support can never be underestimated and having family and friends share part of the journey by trekking into EBC has been incredible. We’ll miss them dearly as the next chapter begins.
CTSS Team
….Lobuche Summits! and....
We’re HERE at Everest Base Camp!
We apologize that it’s been a good few days since our last update - rest assured no news is most often good news. We’ve simply been living our adventure beyond the reaches of cell reception or wifi on Lobuche peak.
After a great few days training at Lobuche base camp (approx 4,950m |16,200ft ) and acclimatizing at Lobuche high camp (approx 5400m |17,700ft ) we’re all feeling adjusted and great. Sleeping like babies and eating like royalty.
We are proud to announce that everyone who climbed Lobuche reached the summit in record time! (6119m | 20,075ft ) I think they even gave guides Tendi, Casey + Mike a good stretch of the legs at the pace they were all moving. This team is proving themselves stronger and stronger with each day. Lobuche is a great test for Everest and everyone passed with flying colors. It showed they have strong technical climbing skills that are being concreted down more and more with every training session. They are acclimatizing well and are fighting fit. We’ve had an amazing run with the weather and we’ve all pinched ourselves at the truly spectacular outlooks over the Himalaya every morning. Not to mention the incredible nights’ sky blanketed in countless stars framed by the silhouettes of the mountains.
The Team Move Across the Ridge - Photo Mike Hamill
We are now all settled into Everest Base Camp having arrived yesterday afternoon after a hearty 5 hour hike. I think everyone is happy to be settling into our home away from home. We are eagerly awaiting the arrival of our final Lhotse climber who is just a few days behind coming up the valley.
We’ve made sure camp is comfortable this year, with plenty of attention to detail in our CTSS set up. We have a carpeted, heated, custom made dining tent with a separate washroom so everyone can wash their hands before coming inside, a full catering kitchen (literally we have 3 stainless steel kitchen benches, a 3gas burner stove, sinks, and a full oven! Fresh bread everyday!) The kitchen is staffed by chefs who have been trained at 5 star restaurants and who have been fuelling us with the best meals we’ve had since we’ve been in Nepal. Lunch today was burgers on freshly baked buns with potato salad and fresh steamed broccoli!
The state of the art Communications Tent is set up, with a brand new radio base station to keep in touch with our teams as they move up the mountain, a carpeted Hang Out Tent with blow up couches perfect for movie nights on the projector. Each member has their own tent with a full mattress and pillow, insulation flooring and as many hot showers as they want! Not to mention a western style WC with a washroom to keep everything hygienic. So if they report home that they’re roughing it, you can give them a little grief!
We really believe that happy, well rested, healthy climbers have the best shot at the summit and sometimes the little luxuries of home, and the extra mile when it comes to hygiene, can make all the difference.
Today is a full rest day, with everyone showering, doing laundry, catching some sun and keeping up with the news from home. Meanwhile the leadership team has been busy consulting the forecasts, chatting to the Sherpa teams who have already been doing carrying loads, fine tuning the radio set up and planning out the schedule in more detail.
Catch up with you all soon, CTSS team.
…Time for Tents…
Well it’s our final night by the fire in the teahouse here at Pheriche where we’ve been tucked up in comfy beds and been fed like Kings and Queens. From here on in we’ll be in our sleeping bags and tents and the spirit of adventure will step up a notch.
Tomorrow we move to our Base Camp at Lobuche, and you’ll have to forgive the sporadic nature of our updates as we will be out of range of cell phones and have no access to wifi.
The plan is to reach Lobuche Base Camp tomorrow, take a rest day with an acclimatisation hike the following day before starting to move up to high camp and look at a summit bid. We choose to climb Lobuche instead of doing another rotation on Everest as it reduces our team’s exposure to the icefall whilst still giving the team a great opportunity to concrete down those technical skills and gain roughly the same acclimatization benefits as they would on a first Everest rotation. It also offers some variety & the joy climbing another great Himalayan peak.
Today we did a beautiful scenic hike above Pheriche to approximately 15,200ft with everyone feeling strong. It snowed lightly throughout the night so we walked through a fresh dusting to crisp blue skies and incredible views of our next goal Lobuche amongst other giants like Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtenga & Kangteri. We even captured a glimpse of Makalu – the 5th highest mountain in the world.
Our Speed Ascent climber is doing amazingly well and is already ready to move up hill after feeling great on our acclimatization hike and sleeping soundly. She popped into the HRA who were super impressed with how well acclimated she is. The hypoxico tent and her training has certainly done its work. Our Lhotse climber flew safely into Lukla today and has already started moving up the valley, we’ll rendezvous at Everest Base Camp.
Everyone happy and well – sleeping soundly and their appetites are great which is a strong sign of solid acclimatization.
Photo by Casey Grom
...Almost All Here…
A super exciting day today for three reasons:
- We left Tengboche and arrived in Pheriche in time for lunch. Pheriche is roughly 14,000ft or 4,200m. We are now well above the tree line and won’t see any green trees for quite some time! Everyone is feeling fighting fit, happy and healthy. We popped over to the HRA (The Himalayan Rescue Association) this afternoon for their daily briefly about how our bodies react to altitude and how to respond to any signs and symptoms.The HRA is a voluntary non profit high altitude medical clinic. Major credit goes to Dr. John Skow, an American national, who in 1973 went up to the Khumbu and was distressed that many people were dying from Acute Mountain Sickness. He felt that something ought to be done about it. He called together a meeting of officials from the Ministry of Health, some doctors and few other individuals from trekking companies. Another meeting followed with more clear ideas about what to do. The persons from the trekking companies also realized that since it was their clients who were affected most should take the initiative. Finally in the third meeting it was decided to form Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal with most of the trekking agencies contributing generously in its early days. They set up some remote medical outposts, including here in Pheriche and there is also an HRA at Base Camp. The HRA have been an integral and critical part of Everest mountain life ever since. We can’t speak highly enough of them and the doctors who volunteer their time. The clinic runs on donations, small fees and merchandise sales.
http://www.himalayanrescue.org/ - Our Speed Ascent Climber has arrived into Pheriche all the way from London (she’s originally from Hungary) this afternoon. We thought that with the valley being socked in with cloud we would have to wait until tomorrow morning to welcome her, but a tiny weather window opened this afternoon to reveal glimpses of the mighty mountains all around us and then we heard the roar of chopper blades and there she was! She is has been acclimatizing at home in her hypoxico tent and is already acclimatized and ready to go! That means with the arrival of our last Lhotse climber in a few days our CTSS team will be complete. We can’t wait.
- We worked together as a team to figure out and solve Guide Casey’s riddles… we’re all feeling very smart – evidentially the altitude hasn’t affected our cognitive abilities. The reward – a block of Rittersport chocolate! Here’s food for thought for you too - but you have to promise not to Google the answers, no matter how tempted you may be and then if you figure them out you can give yourself a chocolate themed reward!- You are standing outside the door to a closed room, on the wall in front of you there are three light switches that correspond to three light bulbs inside the adjoining room. You can only enter the room with the light bulbs once, so how do you figure out which bulb corresponds to which switch?
- You have 9 eggs. They are identical in every way to the eye. They all feel exactly the same in your hand, except you know that one egg is slightly denser than the others. You can use a scale only twice to figure out which egg is the odd one out and the densest. How do you do it?
Tomorrow we’ll be doing an acclimatization hike above Pheriche before spending our final night in a teahouse and the next day we’ll go on to Lobuche base camp where we’ll spend our first night in our tents – may the adventure begin! There are definitely a few excited climbers ready to get their crampons out…
CTSS Team
...Everest 18 Team at Tengboche...
The Everest 18 Team were eager to hit the trail this morning up to Tengboche (3,867 metres | 12,687 ft) after a solid acclimatization period in Namche. We were rewarded with blue skies and beautiful vistas of Everest and Ama Dablam for most of the hike. Taking the old route the team smashed up the notorious Tengboche hill in fine form at record speed - these are some fit and healthy climbers indeed!
It was shorts and tshirt weather for most of the walk although as soon as we arrived up on the ridge at Tengboche there was a noticeable drop in temperature and down pants and jackets were being pulled quickly out of the depths of duffel bags.
After lunch at the teahouse, we were fortunate to visit the famous Tengboche Monastery on an auspicious day in the Tibetan Buddhist calendar to receive blessings from the High Monk for our journey ahead. The Monk chanted prayers for our team's safety and permission to climb the mountain while occasionally ringing a small bell. His prayers lasted around half an hour before each member of the team was presented with a Kata scarf and a Sungdi - which is a red cord that has been prayed over by the monks for a period of time and is then tied around the climbers neck as protection with a special knot.
No photos are allowed inside the Monastery so while we aren't able to share the special moment with you at home, it somehow made us more present and in the moment.
We will spend 2 nights here in Tengboche before moving further up towards Everest.
CTSS Team
Welcome to Tengboche - Have a quick look around!