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Guide Spotlight: Dallas Glass
Guide Spotlight: Dallas Glass
Meet CTSS guide Dallas Glass! A Seattle local, Dallas has climbed and guided some of the most renowned peaks worldwide, including Mount Everest in Nepal and Cho Oyu in Tibet. He is a regular presence on our Denali expeditions in Alaska and Mount Baker in Washington, where his calm leadership and technical expertise have earned him a reputation as one of the most skilled guides in the business. As one of our climbers on Mount Baker shared this past year, Dallas is “simply outstanding.”
With nearly three decades of climbing experience and an impressive academic background, Dallas brings a wealth of knowledge to every expedition. Dallas holds a Bachelor of Science in Forest Resource Management from Clemson University and went on to earn a Master’s degree in Hydrology and Soil Physics from the University of Nevada. After completing his studies, Dallas divided his time between working as a wilderness ecologist in Alaska and an avalanche forecaster at Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe. These days, Dallas spends most of his year working as an avalanche and mountain weather forecaster in Washington’s rugged Cascade Range. However, he still loves to trade his skis for crampons and explore the world’s great ranges. His combined expertise in both the environment and avalanche science makes him an indispensable resource on every climb.
Dallas’s list of professional certifications is equally as impressive as his big mountain and academic background. Not only does he hold multiple certifications from the American Institute of Avalanche Research and Education, but he also spent many years working for AIARE, teaching and evaluating other recreationists and professionals. Rounding out Dallas’s avalanche certifications, he has also completed the Pro Training Program with the American Avalanche Association, which supports avalanche professionals by increasing the effectiveness of past trainings and certifications in a collaborative and complimentary manner.

A climber from our 2024 Denali team expedition perfectly captured Dallas’s strengths:
“Dallas was easily the most knowledgeable and experienced guide on our trip. He always put safety and education first and worked tirelessly to help clients succeed. He far exceeded my expectations for a guide.”
Born in Alabama, Dallas’s passion for the outdoors was sparked when he began climbing the beautifully sculpted sandstone routes that dominate the northeast corner of the state. In 2012, Dallas and his wife moved to Seattle, where they now enjoy the outdoors year-round. His time in the Pacific Northwest has been marked by countless adventures, where he has further honed his climbing, skiing, and avalanche forecasting skills. When not guiding or working as a local avalanche forecaster, you’ll likely find Dallas on a long run or whipping a delicious meal with his wife.
Whether you’re tackling the glaciers of Alaska or the rugged slopes of Baker, Dallas brings an unparalleled depth of experience and professionalism to the mountain. This is exactly why we’re tapping into Dallas’s knowledge for our upcoming webinar, Mountaineering 101: Expedition Essentials on Mount Baker, to chat about our Mount Baker Alpine Academy. These hands-on courses are designed for aspiring climbers or those preparing for bigger summits like Denali, Aconcagua, or Everest who want a deeper understanding of the essential mountaineering skills, including crampon, ice axe, rope, and efficiency techniques, as well as best practices for camping during a multi-day expedition. You can read more about these essential skills in our blog, Mike’s Big Four: Skills ALL Mountaineers Need.
Get to Know Dallas
Ready to level up your climbing skills? Join top guides Dallas Glass and Kat Schaumberg for an expert-led webinar in November to learn about our favorite classroom—Mount Baker!
Mountaineering 101: Expedition Essentials on Mount Baker
This FREE webinar is your chance to learn from our very own Mount Baker Lead Guides as they share their expertise on essential mountain climbing techniques. From mastering glacier travel to honing your camping skills in harsh environments, discover why Mount Baker is the ideal classroom for climbers aiming for bigger peaks.

Mike’s Big Four: Skills ALL Mountaineers Need
Mike’s Big Four: Skills ALL Mountaineers Need
Safe and successful mountaineering is rooted in the skills you develop and hone along the way. Every climber, regardless of whether they are climbing Mount Baker or Mount Everest, needs a strong foundation in expedition management (e.g., winter camping and self-care) and technical skills (e.g., crampon and ice axe usage) paired with an intentional altitude progression. As a holistic mountaineering guide service, we are here to give you advice and are committed to ensuring that you are set up for success on all your future expeditions.
Not all trip itineraries offer climbers dedicated time to learn, practice, and refine the fundamental skills, which is why we designed the Mount Baker Alpine Academy courses—a program specifically developed for beginner climbers who want a jumping-off point to the great ranges around the world. Even seasoned climbers find Mount Baker a great place to refresh, improve efficiency, and continue to build mastery. What makes a strong climber is the continued repetition of skills, especially as you move toward a new objective.
We asked Mike Hamill, CTSS co-owner and author of Climbing the Seven Summits, to share the technical and expedition skills around which he designed the Mount Baker Alpine Academy curriculum and that he believes are fundamental to setting climbers up for a lifetime of climbing.

Skill #1: Multi-Day Expedition Camping
Camping and expedition training are the foundation upon which your more technical mountaineering skill set will rest. This includes everything from building and packing your kit for the hike into base camp to setting up a winter camp, spending consecutive nights in a tent, and managing a wide array of weather conditions. If you have your eyes on an expedition to Vinson, Denali, or Aconcagua, being proficient in these skills and having well-practiced, dependable systems will set you up for success so you can focus more on climbing.
We’ve broken this singular concept into three subcategories to help you better understand what skills you should focus on when you’re on Mount Baker.
- Expedition Kit: A properly curated kit is your lifeline in harsh environments. This kit should include a variety of layers to prevent both overheating and cold injuries, which means you’ll want moisture-wicking base layers to keep sweat away from your skin, insulating mid-layers to trap warmth and a waterproof, windproof outer shell for protection against the elements. Anticipating and adjusting your layers as conditions change ensures you stay warm without overheating. Your gear, from your crampons to your headlamp, must be organized, reliable, and tested beforehand to prevent any on-mountain mishaps. Insulated mountaineering boots are especially important—make sure they fit well to avoid frostbite and blisters and have space for bulky socks. Mount Baker offers the perfect terrain to test your kit together and explore how each piece works effectively as a system. Check out our blog post, How to Choose the Right Mountaineering Boots, for more info on choosing the right boot.
- Winter Camping: Tent camping in inclement conditions demands specific skills to ensure not only your comfort but also your survival in more extreme environments. Setting up a solid winter camp also requires a reliable, four-season tent capable of withstanding high winds and snowfall. Knowing how to secure your tent with snow anchors, create windbreaks, and avoid drafts is essential. Equally important is your sleep system; use a properly rated sleeping bag and two insulated sleeping pads to ensure you stay warm and get the rest you need to maintain energy for the next day’s climb. Another key task at camp is making potable water, which often means melting snow on the stove. Efficiently managing your water filtration systems and keeping fuel consumption under control are crucial for staying hydrated.
- Self-Care: Taking care of yourself on a multi-day expedition involves managing both your physical and mental well-being. Proper nutrition and hydration are essential, and your meals should be calorie-dense yet lightweight, designed to keep your energy levels high in the cold. It’s easy to forget to hydrate in freezing temperatures, but staying hydrated is just as critical as on warmer days. Injuries such as blisters or sore muscles can derail your climb if not managed early. Learn to avoid and treat blisters as soon as they appear, and be proactive with stretching and rest to keep muscle fatigue at bay. Having a well-stocked first aid kit and the know-how to use it can help you avoid minor issues turning into bigger problems.

Mike on the importance of self-care.
Skill #2: Cramponing & Ice Axe Techniques
Cramponing and ice axe techniques are essential for safe and efficient movement on glaciated terrain. Together, these tools allow climbers to ascend and descend safely, providing traction and support on technical routes. Mastering these skills is crucial for navigating challenging conditions and minimizing risk.
Crampons are detachable spikes designed to fit securely onto your mountaineering boots and provide traction on terrain covered in snow and ice. The most commonly used crampon technique is flat-footing (French technique). This style keeps the crampon flat against the surface, thereby engaging all points and helping conserve energy. Front-pointing (German technique), as the name suggests, involves using the front points of the crampon to kick into the ice, particularly on steep slopes, to provide strong, secure footing.
The ice axe is a specialized yet versatile tool used in mountaineering, specifically during glacier travel. It serves several key functions, including providing support, balance, and safety on snowy or icy slopes. It typically has three parts: the head (including the sharp pick and a flat blade called the adze), the shaft (the long handle), and the spike (the pointed end at the bottom).
Key ice axe techniques include learning to self-arrest, which is one of the most important safety skills in mountaineering. In the event of an unexpected fall, a climber must quickly retrieve their ice axe and dig it into the snow or ice while rolling to their stomach. Once a climber is laying flat, they can put additional pressure onto the head of the axe using their body weight. Ideally, the ice axe is tucked under the climber’s chest while they use their feet to stabilize their fall.
Skill #3: Rope Techniques
Rope techniques are essential in mountaineering to ensure safety, manage risk, and navigate technical sections of a climb. These techniques vary based on terrain, team size, and the difficulty of the route. Here are a few examples of rope techniques that we practice during our Mount Baker Alpine Academy and use regularly on our expeditions.
- Roped glacier travel, or roping up, is where climbers are tied together with a rope for mutual safety, especially on glaciers or steep sections. This helps prevent falls and aids in arresting or rescuing if someone on the team slips. This technique is commonly used on mountains when crevasses are a danger or when crossing exposed ridges.
- Fixed-line climbing, or the jumar technique, refers to a style of climbing in which fixed ropes are anchored to the mountain to provide assistance for climbs ascending steep, technical terrain. When ascending, climbers use a jumar (a mechanical ascender) to move up the rope while being securely attached. This technique is commonly used on Denali, Vinson, and across the Himalayas on near-vertical slopes.
- Crevasse rescue is a specific rope setup used during glacier travel, especially where hidden crevasses are a risk. This technique not only helps prevent unwanted falls into a crevasse but also enables quick rescue in the event of a fall. This is one of those skills that, ideally, you never need to use but is a core skill for expeditions on Denali and Vinson. Also, practicing these skills is probably some of the most fun you’ll have during our Alpine Academy.
Skill #4 – Efficiency Techniques
Mountaineering efficiency techniques like pressure breathing, the rest step, and maintaining a steady pace are vital skills for conserving energy and sustaining endurance during long climbs. These methods are designed to maximize oxygen intake and reduce muscle fatigue, allowing climbers to move more efficiently in high-altitude environments.
Pressure breathing emphasizes controlled, metered breaths, which, when used properly, can significantly improve oxygen saturation in your body and help keep your muscles oxygenated at high altitudes. If you were to use a pulse oximeter, you’d see a notable increase in O2 after about five minutes of pressure breathing. You might find that some guides teach back-pressure breathing, but remember that the goal is to breathe consistently and calmly.
The rest step incorporates a brief pause with each step by locking your back leg, enabling your skeletal system to bear more of the load and reducing strain on your muscles. In fact, if we were all standing around right now, you’d more than likely be practicing a rest step standing with one leg locked and the other not locked. This essentially mimics the rest step.
When combined with a steady pace, these techniques create a rhythm that enhances overall performance, allowing climbers to maintain a consistent, manageable speed that conserves energy and reduces exhaustion on challenging terrain.
Mike’s thoughts on efficiency.
Final Thoughts on Mountaineering Skills
It’s important to remember that these skills aren’t just checkboxes during your Mount Baker Alpine Academy. These are lifelong mountaineering skills that you will need to practice and hone year after year because they are crucial for your safety and success in the mountains. Regardless of where you are in your mountaineering journey, you don’t want to get to the final pitches on Denali, for example, and feel exhausted, inefficient, and intimidated by what’s in front of you. When you take the time to learn and continually refine these skills, you will become a more capable and confident mountaineer, making every adventure more rewarding.
If you have questions about your own climbing journey or how to set yourself up for success on a particular objective, our team is happy to help you craft a plan designed specifically for you. We work with mountaineers over a lifetime of climbing, and we get to know each individual throughout their progression, investing deeply not only in your safety and success but in your goals, education, and experience.
Mountaineering 101: Expedition Essentials on Mount Baker
Ready to level up your climbing skills? Check out our webinar with top guides Dallas Glass and Kat Schaumberg to learn about our favorite classroom—Mount Baker!
This FREE webinar is your chance to learn from our very own Mount Baker Lead Guides as they share their expertise on essential mountain climbing techniques. From mastering glacier travel to honing your camping skills in harsh environments, discover why Mount Baker is the ideal classroom for climbers aiming for bigger peaks.
Orizaba Express Training & Prerequisites
Experience Level

Climbing Orizaba requires solid fitness and an ability to perform well at altitude, but it is not beyond the abilities of many people who are willing to train for the climb and work hard on the trip. Prior use of crampons and an ice axe is preferred but not mandatory as we will do a brief snow school for those with experience to touch up their skills and for others to become familiar. If you want to join this expedition but feel unsure of your ability, chat with us, and we can work with you to get you up to speed before the climb. We take immense pride in helping people achieve their goals.
If you are looking for a skills-based course and climb to hone your technical mountaineering skills, check out our Mount Baker Alpine Academy and our Lobuche East expedition in Nepal.
Physical Training

You need to be very physically fit and able to dedicate time to “climbing-specific training” in the lead-up to your expedition. Being in top shape will also ensure you enjoy your climb, feel good throughout, and get the most out of the experience.
It is vital that your training closely simulates what you will be doing on the mountain. Traditional gym workouts or general fitness plans aren’t targeted enough. Instead, you need to emulate long physical days (8+ hours) in the mountains
We recommend that you:
- Start specific mountaineering training at least three months in advance
- Train at least 4-5 days a week for an hour or more
- Focus on high-volume but low-intensity training
- Don’t forget the cardio, strength training, and stretching.
- A good goal is to be able to comfortably climb 1,500 vertical feet per hour with a 40lb pack.
- Schedule a few weekends where you can do two or more full days back to back. For multi-day hikes, carrying a pack with good elevation gains and descents is ideal.
Mindset

Mindset and mental preparation are integral to your success on any peak. You should be prepared:
- To be away from home/work for the duration of your climb
- Have a desire for rugged adventure travel
- Be open to receiving and deferring to guidance, support, and advice from your guides/expedition leaders (even if you are an experienced mountaineer)
- Be comfortable having open conversations with your guides
- Be able to work well in a team environment by being supportive and respectful of fellow teammates
- Be humble, respectful, and considerate even under pressure
Orizaba Express Expedition Beta & Route
Elevation: 18,491 feet
Duration: 7 days
Continent: North America
Route: Northern Route
Difficulty: Advanced Beginner – Intermediate
Route Choice
We have chosen the Northern Route (also known as the Jamapa Glacier Route or the Normal Route) on Orizaba for the best summit chances and an opportunity to experience standing on top of North America’s tallest volcanic peak.
Orizaba requires a very early start with breakfast at high camp before starting upwards. The climb consists of true glacier travel with some steep snow, so it is necessary to be well acquainted with ice axe use, crampons, and roped team travel.

The route starts from the Piedra Grande Hut with a challenging 1,400-meter ascent that takes 8 to 15 hours. The first section involves climbing up a rocky and sandy scree slope, which, while not the most pleasant, is quickly behind you as the climb transitions to snow-covered terrain.
Next is the Labyrinth, a complex mix of ice and rock that can be tricky to navigate. Climbers typically choose between two main routes here: a steeper, more direct path to the right or a longer, more gradual path to the left, depending on conditions and preference.
The final section is the Jamapa Glacier, a straightforward but deceptive ascent where progress can feel slow due to the glacier’s vast size. As you near the summit, the glacier becomes steeper, reaching around 40 degrees. Although there are small crevasses, they generally pose no serious threat to climbers. The descent follows the same route back to the hut.
How to Choose The Right Pico de Orizaba Expedition
How to Choose The Right Pico de Orizaba Expedition
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Researching and choosing the right expedition company to support you and help guide you through all logistics, as well as be there for you on the mountain, is important. You want to do your homework so you feel 100% confident in your choice and can focus on the climb.
We encourage you to look closely at both the big picture and the small details. Look at a company’s priority on safety, the quality and experience of their guides, their reputation, and their level of “care factor.”
Safety & Success
Your safety and success are the top priorities, in that order.
A climbing company should invest heavily and plan extensively for your safety.
We have an unparalleled safety record, and our clientele’s well-being factors into every decision we make while on expeditions. Although we like to stand on the top of mountains more than anyone, we believe that climbing is a round-trip endeavor, and getting you back to your loved ones safely is paramount. We take many safety precautions, including bringing multiple communication devices, high-altitude safety equipment, medical kits, and the highest-quality gear to ensure a safe environment in which to climb.
At CTSS, we ensure the safety of our climbers by employing guides with years of experience on Pico de Orizaba and around the world. By using the Northern Route, we provide you with the highest chance of success and give you the best climbing experience available on the mountain. This is due to the more relaxed terrain and greater amount of time for acclimatization en route to the summit.
We are proud to have maintained a 100% client success rate for all our Orizaba expeditions. This is a testament to our quality of service and attention to detail. With our expertise, experience, and infrastructure, you can stack those odds in your favor. We offer a longer acclimatization progression for proper acclimatization to mitigate the risks of altitude sickness. Many guide services, especially local companies, race their clients up the mountain to cut corners on costs. We are highly invested in our reputation for safety and success and are always striving to improve our programs to maintain our hard-earned status.
Decision-making in the mountains is supremely important, and our guides are the best in the business. They have a hunger to summit whenever it’s safe to do so and have a proven track record. All of our programs acclimatize conservatively to mitigate the risk of having altitude issues and to give them the highest chance of success.
Leadership
Look for guides who are seasoned experts with a strategy that is patient, conservative, and well-planned to give you the best opportunity for success. They should be adept at managing the team, able to lean on extensive experience, and “thread the needle” when it comes to picking the best summit window.
Our mountaineering guides and staff are second to none and will guide you through the many nuances of climbing Pico de Orizaba, which will allow you to be successful. From start to finish, we will work with you to make sure you’re as prepared as possible to reach your goal of standing on the tallest volcano in North America. Often, being able to troubleshoot problems before they occur can make the difference, and this is where CTSS’s vast experience becomes crucial.
Progression Climbing Specialists
We are proud to be a holistic mountaineering guiding service that is committed to retaining you as a happy climber. We work with mountaineers over a lifetime of climbing, and we get to know each individual throughout their progression. This means we are deeply invested not only in your safety and success but also in your goals, your learning, your journey, and your satisfaction. An Orizaba-only trek operator only needs your business once, whether you summit or not, get altitude sick or not. It’s our goal that, once you climb with us, you’ll stick with CTSS expedition after expedition.
Our team looks forward to helping you create a path that makes your climbing dreams come true. You won’t get a generalized plan for your mountaineering journey from our team. You get a custom-tailored plan designed for you, your budget, and your timeline, and we will always be ready to answer your questions and provide personalized support rather than become one of the countless faceless online booking platforms.
Values & Philosophy
Does an operator have strong values?
This is sometimes a little harder to identify as it’s more of a feeling than a sales pitch, but you should get a feel for a company through their little interactions, their care factor, their attention to detail, their corporate social responsibility, and their responses to you.
Mountaineering can be high risk and stressful, so pick an operator who has strong core values and a team mentality that aligns with yours so that when things get challenging, you can rely on open lines of communication, knowing they will do what they can to support you.
It is this team cohesiveness that flows through to each individual climber and helps them stand on top.
Orizaba Express Travel Guide
Expedition Meets in: Mexico City, Mexico
Continent: North America
Currency: Mexican Peso
Population: 127.5 million
Official Language: Spanish
Seasons to climb: December to March
Meeting Location: The first day of your itinerary is your arrival day, meaning you can arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juárez (MEX) at any time on that first day. Our hotel in Mexico City provides very comfortable accommodations. Connect with your guide as you arrive at the hotel. If you arrive late at night, please ask reception to leave a message for your guide that you have arrived.
You will formally meet your team in the evening on Day 1 for a team dinner. On Day 2, we will have our official team Gear Check and Guide Briefing over breakfast. During this time, your guides will go over all the specifics of your expedition and climbing schedules, how to pack for the upcoming week, and any updated logistics. If you have any questions, this is a great time to ask them.

Tourist Visas: Citizens of most countries, including the United States and Canada, can secure a visa on arrival in Mexico for stays lasting fewer than 180 days. It is your responsibility to research visa requirements for your passport’s issuing country.
Getting There: Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juárez (MEX) is the starting point for our adventure. Flying into Mexico City is relatively straightforward as it is served by many major airlines with flights from Asia, North and South America, and Europe daily. We ask that you keep us informed of your travel details by forwarding us a copy of your flight itineraries, both inbound and outbound. A CTSS representative will pick you up at the airport, so please advise us well in advance of any changes to your arrival time and flight number. If you experience a delay in traveling, let us know immediately.
Domestic Transportation: Your domestic transportation within Mexico is included in your expedition.
Money: It is better to have more money than you need than not enough. Most things are covered on the trip once you land in Mexico. Bring cash to cover expenses for a potential early departure (not frequent, but sometimes this occurs), miscellaneous expenses like extra hotel nights, meals in town, if arriving early or departing late, shopping, alcohol, specialty coffees, bottled water or snacks, staff tips (customary, but optional), etc. In-town meals during the climb are at your own expense.
Generally, we recommend bringing $1,000 – $1,500 USD plus a credit card to cover all potential expenses, though it is unlikely that you will need all of this. Large denominations (20s, 50s, and 100s) are better, and you can change money at change houses when you arrive. There are also quite a few ATMs around town where you can use your card to take out local cash at a good rate. Please let your credit card company know you will be traveling so you can use your card without triggering a fraud alert.
Tipping: Tips are customary in Mexico. Tip between 10-15% for meals, round up taxi fares, hotel bellhops receive $1-$2 USD per bag, and housekeepers customarily get about $1 USD per day.
We recommend tipping $400-$600 USD for the guide team.
Electrical: The Mexican electrical grid runs at 127V and 60Hz. Check your device specification (especially in the Hertz specifications) and plan on bringing an adapter to ensure compatibility. Mexico has adopted the same plug configurations as the United States Type A and Type B.
Tap Water & Sanitation: It is recommended to opt for bottled water or treat your own tap water while traveling in Mexico, especially in the more rural regions surrounding our climbing routes.
Do your best to stay healthy before the expedition even begins. Use good sanitation practices throughout the trip. This includes using hand sanitizer regularly before eating, after using the bathroom, shaking hands, etc.
Language: The majority of Mexicans only speak Spanish, with English being somewhat common in high tourist areas. It may be difficult to find an English speaker if you are traveling away from the group.
Vaccinations: We strongly encourage all travelers to be properly vaccinated for common diseases, including COVID-19. You may need your vaccination certificate on file.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) maintains a list of recommended vaccines, which can be viewed on the CDC’s travel website.
Be careful around dogs in the city and on the trail, as they may carry rabies. The rabies vaccine is expensive, and most people don’t receive it as a standard vaccine. If you do a significant amount of adventure travel, you may want to look into receiving the rabies vaccine.
Accommodations: All hotels are double occupancy unless you have chosen the single rooming option and paid the add-on fee. If you want single rooming, please let us know, and we can add the fee to your balance to cover this added expense. Sometimes hotels are full during the climbing season and may not have enough space to accommodate single rooming, but we will do our best.
Gear Storage: You can store any items that you don’t need on the climb at the compound in Tlachichuca. It is best to lock this duffel to make sure people are not tempted to get into it, although we’ve never had issues with this.
Cell Phone Coverage: There is cell service during much of our trip in Mexico but roaming charges can be expensive, so please consult your carrier to determine data/calling rates prior to departure. Another option is to purchase a local SIM or rechargeable phone while in Mexico City. There may be a satellite phone with the team on the climb, but don’t expect to be able to use it on an unlimited basis as we typically reserve it for emergencies. We can make it available to the team at $3/minute.
There is WiFi in hotels before and after the climbs.
Orizaba On-Mountain Porter
On-Mountain Porter
2-Days of On-Mountain Porterage
Price: $1,000 USD
Our Orizaba expeditions are self-carrying, and there are two days in particular, moving to high camp and descending from high camp, on which pack weights can be heavy. If you would like additional support, we encourage you to do so and contribute to the local economy by employing a porter.
This includes up to 20kg or 44 pounds of weight carried on your behalf.